This year marks the 35th anniversary of Atsumi Sharin Michi-no-Eki, and a special day of festivities is planned to celebrate the occasion!
🎶 At 1:30 PM, enjoy a dynamic taiko drum performance to kick off the afternoon.
🎭 In the evening, don’t miss the annual Sunset Noh performance—a unique, open-air rendition of the local Yamato Noh (山戸能), known as Yūhi Noh (夕陽能), starting from 5:30 PM as the sun sets over the Sea of Japan.
🎈 Between performances, there will be plenty of fun activities for children, including a prize raffle and yo-yo fishing—perfect for families looking to enjoy the full day.
About Yamato Noh& Yamairagawa Kabuki
Photo by Jo Igarashi
Yamato Noh
Yamato Noh is a sacred Noh performance held during the annual grand festival of Kawachi Shrine, the guardian shrine of the Yamairagawa area. As for its origins, documents remaining in the region suggest two main theories: one says it was introduced around the year 866 , while another attributes its arrival to the Kan’ei era. However, the exact details remain unclear. In the past, around the year 1901, there were approximately 120 Noh plays in the repertoire. Today, however, only nine plays remain: Hagoromo, Takasago, Shōjō, Kamo, Chikubushima, Funa Benkei, Kanehira, Kasuga Ryūjin, and Rashōmon. One of these is performed each year. However, all 120 original scripts are still carefully preserved to this day.
Yamairagawa kabuki performance inside the Kawachi shrine in the Yamairagawa village
Yamairagawa Kabuki One can’t speak of Yamato Noh without evoking the Yamairagawa Kabuki, as both are performed on the same day in the Kawachi Shrine. The exact origins are unclear, but it is said to have begun over 250 years ago when local youths performed a play as an offering of gratitude to the ascetic monk Tetsumonkai of Mt. Yudono, who had saved the village by driving out an epidemic. Like Yamato Noh, Yamairagawa Kabuki is a sacred performance dedicated to Kawachi Shrine and is held locally every spring and autumn. The repertoire includes 14 plays across 37 scenes, and the tradition has received high acclaim both in Japan and abroad, including the prestigious Mokichi Saito Cultural Award in 1970.
What to do in the area
Nezugaseki Port & its lighthouse
Located at the southernmost tip of Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture, the port town of Nezugaseki is renowned for its beautiful coastline and the bounty of its rich fishing grounds. Representing the pride of this area is Nezugaseki Port, one of the most prominent fishing ports in the prefecture, where approximately 342 different species of fish are landed. It is also famous for its many marine activities (upon reservation through GreenBlue Atsumi’s website) such as kayaking, SUP or fishing/cooking experiences. Strolling around the lighthouse and the nearby shrine will definitely make beautiful pictures and memories before attending to the Sunset Noh performance.
Nezugaseki’s fish auctions (seri 鼠ヶ関競り）
When people think of fish auctions, they often imagine early-morning events. However, Nezugaseki stands out for its unique practice of holding auctions in the evening, in order to ship the catch in time for early-morning sales at major markets like Tokyo’s Toyosu.
Another distinctive feature of Nezugaseki’s auction is its format. Here, a method called “Itazeri” is used: bidders write coded numbers (called fuchō) on a blackboard, and the highest bid wins instantly. Unlike standard auctions, this “board auction” format brings with it a unique sense of tension and excitement.
Asahiya Sushi Restaurant
The master of this legendary sushi restaurant only serves high quality local fish and will talk passionately about his work (in Japanese!) while you relish on his carefully formed sushi; beloved as ones of the most delicious sushis in the city.
(August 2025 Festival) Where to see the Fujishima Lion Dance
In the Fujishima area, lion dances are so widely preserved and passed down that it is known as the “Land of Lions.” Notable examples can be found in villages such as Oya 大谷, Soegawa 添川, Higashihorikoshi 東堀越, or Watamae 渡前. While the exact origins of the dances in each of these communities are unclear, they are believed to be quite old. It is said that the art of the lion dance was first learned by the Tang dynasty from the West and later brought to Japan from Tang China. These dances have been performed as a ritual to drive away evil spirits.
The lion used in the dance is a single-person type, and there are five main lions: the central lion (nakajishi), the banner lion (hatajishi), the egret (shirasagi), the male lion (ojishi), and the female lion (mejishi), with the central lion taking the lead in performance. The decorations on the lion’s head differ depending on the lion. From the head hangs a curtain, a drum is attached in front of the belly, and a hoop-like shoulder frame is worn. In addition to the lions, the full troupe consists of about 30 people, including cross-dressed sasara players (playing a bamboo instrument), sword performers, stick performers, and singers. Accompanied by songs and the beat of drums, the lions leap and dance energetically.
While the musical pieces vary slightly by location, they often include “Great Dance,” “Bridge Crossing,” “Curtain Hanging,” “Madness of the Female Lion,” “Bow Dance,” and “Grass Tossing,” which are combined as appropriate. The dances are often performed during Obon-centered festivals, starting with a “spirit-entering” ceremony. The troupe first dances at the local shrine and then, upon request, visits and performs at the homes of parishioners.
This type of dance broadly consists of two key elements. One is the lion appearing as a divine messenger—or even as a deity itself—to bless the village and its households with happiness.
The second element is rooted in the belief that lions originally symbolized misfortune or were creatures that ravaged fields and crops. The lion first appears in this form. However, people of old believed that such a lion also had the power to suppress evil spirits. If venerated as a god, the lion would repent and pledge to serve as a guardian that subdues malevolent forces, bringing happiness to people and protecting agriculture.
When the lion, having once been subdued (appuku), is reborn with new divine vitality, the sasara player appears, and the lion performs a joyful frenzied dance. The role of subduing the lion belongs to the sword and stick performers. Another notable element is a scene called “the hiding of the female lion,” in which two male lions compete for her affection. In this way, the lion embodies intense expressions of romantic passion, representing a primitive prayer for fertility and abundance.
Moreover, the dance itself is said to be derived from the tradition of Buddhist chanting dances (nenbutsu odori), which developed from the medieval period onward.
(Open the map in a new tab to see the dates & times)
Festivals in July & August (2025 edition)
July 5th (Saturday) – Kotakuji Temple’s Fireflies Watching Event
Firefly Viewing Event at Kagemizawa (in front of Kotakuji Temple)
Join us for an evening observing Genji fireflies at Kagemizawa, located just in front of Kotakuji Temple.
🕰 Time: 7:30 PM (ends around 8:30 PM) 💴 Fee: Free 📌 What to bring: Insect repellent spray, etc. 👕 Please wear clothing suitable for cool weather. ☔ In case of bad weather, the event will be canceled. To check whether the event will be held, please contact us between 5:00–5:30 PM on the day. No advance registration is required.
July 6th (Sunday) – Yutagawa Kagura in Shonai Shrine
Yutagawa Kagura Dedication Performance at Shonai Shrine
The Yutagawa Kagura is a traditional sacred dance passed down in the Yutagawa area—one of Tsuruoka’s beloved hot spring towns. It is said that in the past, this dance was performed at the Sakai family’s domain residence, the very deities enshrined at Shonai Shrine today.
As part of the 70th anniversary of the Yutagawa Kagura Preservation Society, we are honored to host a special dedication performance here at Shonai Shrine.
🗓 Date: Sunday, July 6, 2025 🕒 Time: From 3:30 PM 📍 Location: Shonai Shrine – Main Path (Sando) 💴 Admission: Free
✨ On this day only, we will have special Yutagawa Kagura-themed stamps featuring the lion head and Hyottoko face available. Feel free to add them to your goshuin (shrine stamp book) as a special keepsake!
July 12th-13th (Saturday to Sunday) – Michinoeki Atsumi Sharin – Sea Festival & Sea Snails Catching Event
Celebrate the Sea Day weekend by the coast at Michi-no-Eki Atsumi Sharin!
🐟 Local seafood processors will be setting up shop, offering delicious marine products 🐚 Try your hand at the turban shell (sazae) grab game—fun for kids and adults alike!
📍 Location: Michi-no-Eki Atsumi “Sharin” Roadside Station Come enjoy the sea, the flavors, and the summer fun!
July 15th (Tuesday) – Mt. Haguro’s Hanamatsuri (Flower Festival)
Hanamatsuri (Flower-Shaped Bonten Festival) at the Dewa Sanzan Shrine
This vibrant festival is held to pray for a bountiful harvest and safety at home. The highlight is the ornate “bonten” poles, decorated with artificial rice flowers said to hold great spiritual power.
After circling the Kagami Pond together with the mikoshi (portable shrine), visitors engage in a dramatic scramble for the bonten—a breathtaking sight filled with energy and tradition.
📍 Location: In front of the Sankan-Gōsai-den (Three Gods Hall), Dewa Sanzan Shrine
Don’t miss this powerful and sacred celebration rooted in the mountain faith of Dewa.
July 30th, 31st (Wednesday to Thursday)- Yutagawa Onsen’s Kagura Festival
Yutagawa Onsen Kagura & Ushiyu Event 2025
The Yutagawa Onsen Kagura is a sacred performance with over 400 years of tradition, passed down in the hot spring town of Yutagawa. Held each year on the Day of the Ox (Doyō no Ushi no Hi) and the day before, it celebrates the renewal of the hot spring waters with a ritual dedication at Yuzusame Shrine, which enshrines the local deities.
The performance features a dynamic lion dance (shishimai) alongside the comical antics of Hyottoko, accompanied by flutes and drums. This traditional story wards off misfortune and prays for good health, while bringing smiles and excitement to locals and visitors alike.
🗓 Dates: Wednesday, July 30 & Thursday, July 31, 2025 ⏰ Time: From around 8:00 PM 📍 Venue: Yutagawa Onsen – in front of Shōmen no Yu, New Yutagawa Inn, and surrounding locations (Yutagawa, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture)
✨ During the day, enjoy the fun local event “Ushitoji da I ♡ ♨”, open to both overnight guests and day visitors!
Come experience the spirit, sound, and soul of Yutagawa Onsen.
August 3rd (Sunday) – Fujishima Summer Festival
Fujishima Summer Festival & Traditional Performing Arts Festival
Come join the fun at the Fujishima Natsu Matsuri, where there’s something for everyone!
👧 Kids’ games & festival stalls 🎤 Stage performances – “Fuji Rock Matsuri” 🍢 Yatai food stalls & local vendors
🎭 At the same time, enjoy the 24th Tsuruoka Traditional Performing Arts Festival, where you can watch powerful performances like the Fujishima Lion Dance along with other regional traditional arts—all on one exciting stage!
📍 Location: Fujishima Chiiki Katsudō Center (Fujishima District, Tsuruoka City)
A lively evening filled with tradition, music, and summer fun—don’t miss it!
August 9th (Saturday) – Universal Beach Festival
Inclusive “Day at the Sea” Event
This is a seaside event where everyone can enjoy the ocean, regardless of ability or disability. Come feel the breeze, experience the water, and share the joy of summer together!
August 15th (Friday) – Fujishima Shishiodori (Lion Dance) & Other traditional dances – Part 1
Where = Fujishima district, more specifically = Ike Shrine, Gosho Shrine, Daichi Shrine
Read more about how and where to see the Fujishima Lion Dance on our dedicated article here.
August 16th (Saturday) – Akagawa Fireworks
32nd Akagawa Fireworks Festival – Celebrating 20 Years of Tsuruoka City
One of Japan’s most stunning summer fireworks displays returns! To mark the 20th anniversary of Tsuruoka City, this year’s Akagawa Fireworks Festival will light up the sky with 12,000 spectacular fireworks.
📍 Location: Akagawa Riverside, Tsuruoka City (between Mikawa Bridge and Haguro Bridge) 📞 Contact: Akagawa Fireworks Festival Committee – 0235-64-0701 🔗 Official Website
Don’t miss this unforgettable night under the summer sky!
August 16th (Saturday) – Fujishima Shishiodori (Lion Dance) & Other traditional dances – Part 2
Where = Fujishima district, more specifically = Jumonji Kotai Shrine 十文字皇大神社境内
Read more about how and where to see the Fujishima Lion Dance on our dedicated article here.
August 18th (Monday) – Fujishima Shishiodori (Lion Dance) & Other traditional dances – Part 3
Where = Fujishima district, more specifically = Niiyama shrine 新山神社, Soikawa Ryosho shrine 添川両所神社
Read more about how and where to see the Fujishima Lion Dance on our dedicated article here.
August 24th (Sunday)- Sunset Noh at Michinoeki Atsumi Sharin
🥁＼Sunset Noh & Benten Taiko Performance at Michi-no-Eki Atsumi “Sharin”／🌅
Enjoy a powerful live performance of Nezugaseki Benten Taiko drumming, followed by an atmospheric Sunset Noh Theater performance—set against the stunning seaside backdrop.
A summer evening filled with rhythm, tradition, and the beauty of the setting sun. Don’t miss it!
August 24th (Sunday) – Yamagata String Quartet Concert
🎻＼Enjoy a String Quartet Concert in a Meiji-Style Retro Hall／🎶
Step back in time and experience beautiful string quartet music in a charming hall filled with Meiji-era atmosphere.
🕜 Time: Doors open at 1:30 PM, concert starts at 2:00 PM 💴 Admission: 2,000 yen 📍 Venue: Higashitagawa Cultural Memorial Hall – Meiji Hall
A perfect afternoon for music lovers and history fans alike!
This list is non-exhaustive.
Dadacha-mame: the “King of Edamame” native to Tsuruoka!
This delicious green bean, famously spotlighted in Abroad in Japan’s video: “Why I Hate Japanese TV,” left him puzzled because he couldn’t quite figure out what made these beans so special. (No hard feelings—we know it’s a subtle difference and the crew didn’t really help you!)
Dadachamame gets “roasted” starting at around 13:52
For a few decades, Japanese media have crowned Dadacha-mame the “King of Edamame” for its unparalleled sweetness and flavor.
Dadacha-mame is a traditional heirloom variety of edamame with a Protected Designation of Origin, cultivated for generations by local farmers in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture, since the Edo period. Unlike regular edamame, Dadacha-mame is smaller, covered with brown fuzz, and has uniquely wrinkled pods.
Grown in Tsuruoka’s Hakusan district, Dadacha-mame thrives in sandy, well-drained soil that’s perfect for activating rhizobia bacteria, essential for healthy soybeans. Dr. ABE Toshinori from the Yamagata University Agricultural Research team has compared the components of 12 edamame species in his “Dadachamame – Oishisa no himitsu to saibai” and has found that the Dadacha-mame Hakusan variety contains more GABA amino acids (good for lowering blood sugar) and 2-Acetyl-1-pyrroline (aromas) than others, justifying its unique fragrance and taste! (p.36)
The name “Dadacha-mame” reportedly comes from the Sakai family, lords of the Shonai Domain. In the local dialect, “dadacha” means “father” or “old man.” Legend says the feudal lord enjoyed edamame daily and would ask, “Whose dadacha grew these edamame today?” Over time, the beans earned the affectionate name Dadacha-mame.
But is there really a difference between Dadacha-mame and regular edamame?
Dadacha-mame’s cute fuzzy pods, much fluffier than regular edamame
Ask a local, and they’ll say it’s incomparable. So why didn’t Chris get it?
It’s understandable! Telling apart Dadacha-mame from regular edamame is like distinguishing an Ehime mikan from a standard clementine, or an Obanazawa watermelon from an ordinary one. Without a calm, comfortable tasting setting and side-by-side comparison, it’s tough to pinpoint the differences—especially standing in a field under 40°C with just a handful of the same beans (we’re sorry he had to go through this..!); that being said, it doesn’t mean Ehime’s mikans or Obanazawa’s watermelons are no better than your average deal you find in the supermarkets.
Let’s break down what makes Dadacha-mame so special by first understanding regular edamame.
Dadacha-mame farmer in his fields
Edamame are simply immature soybeans (Glycine max Merr.) boiled in their pods and eaten whole. Eating soybeans this way is a relatively recent discovery because wild soybeans were once too bitter and tough to eat raw or lightly cooked.
Historical records say soybeans arrived in China between 400 and 200 BCE, coming from the north. Known as “ebisumame” (barbarian beans) for their foreign origin, they soon became one of China’s five sacred grains.
In Japan, soybeans likely came during the Yayoi period (300 BCE–300 CE), possibly alongside wet rice cultivation. Archaeological digs at Jomon sites (14,000–300 BCE) found small beans like wild soy (tsurumame) and mung beans (ryokutō), but not larger cultivated soybeans.
So when did the Japanese start eating soybeans as edamame?
The word “edamame” probably comes from harvesting immature soybeans with their stems (eda) attached. This practice dates back to the Heian period (794–1185). Around this time, fermented soy products like hishio were also evolving—from thick pastes to more liquid sauces. By the Kamakura period (1185–1333), tamari—a rich fermented soy sauce made from roasted soybeans, barley, malted rice, and salt—was developed.
By the Muromachi period (1336–1573), the word “shōyu” (soy sauce) appeared in early Japanese texts, referring to the oily liquid floating atop hishio. During the Edo period (1603–1868), Japan perfected tamari production methods, laying the foundation for modern soy sauce.
Japan also developed natto, a sticky fermented soybean dish. While its exact origins are unclear, the conditions for natto likely existed by the Yayoi period—rice and soybeans had arrived, and homes had straw floors perfect for natural fermentation.
If boiling soybeans happened then, it’s possible that eating immature soybeans as edamame also started, though this is speculative and hard to date with precision.
A father and a son taking part in a “dadacha-mame picking” activity
In the early Meiji period (1870s’-1880’s), the Shonai Clan cultivated “Komagi”—the ancestor of Dadacha-mame. This variety’s sweet, umami-rich flavor, fuzzy pods, and satisfyingly firm crunch raised the bar for edamame quality nationwide.
To sum up: before the 19th century, soybeans weren’t tasty enough to eat as edamame as we do today. They were too bitter, and the texture wasn’t pleasant, hence why they mainly served for shoyu, tofu and other fermented food. Komagi improved the standard, and soon Dadacha-mame and other notorious beans (like Niigata’s Kurosakichamame)’s reputation spread across Japan, pushing all producers to improve their game—making it harder for most people to tell varieties apart.
If you get the chance, visit Tsuruoka from late July to late August—the official Dadacha-mame harvest season. Buy fresh Dadacha-mame and frozen ones from the supermarket, boil each for 3–4 minutes, cool in ice water, salt them, and taste. We promise you’ll notice the difference! Dadacha-mame has no bitterness or acidity—just pure sweetness, umami, and a firm texture that sets it apart from the regular edamame served in most izakayas.
Still unsure? Try these Dadacha-mame treats in Tsuruoka:
(Recommended itinerary) 7 days to explore the best of the Tohoku’s hiking spots ! (a JR-pass compatible tour idea – Summer edition)
Ready for 7 days of epic hiking adventures in Tohoku? We’ve got your itinerary covered.
Grab your water bottle, hiking poles, and sunglasses, lace up your boots, and get ready to explore the wild beauty of northern Japan.
Start with the Volcano Trail in Fukushima Prefecture, traversing the dramatic landscapes of Jododaira and Mt. Issaikyo in Bandai-Asahi National Park. Then, follow the Spiritual Trail through the sacred peaks of Mt. Haguro & Yudono in Yamagata Prefecture, home to the legendary Dewa Sanzan.
Take in the serene coastal beauty of Matsushima Bay—celebrated as one of Japan’s top three scenic views—before venturing north to hike along the Michinoku Coastal Trail in Aomori and Iwate. Finally, end your journey in the tranquil forest paths of Yamadera, a temple hidden among the mountains.
Adventure, nature, and spirituality—all in one unforgettable week.
Start your journey from Tokyo station at 8:07 on board of the Tohoku Shinkansen bound for Fukushima station (1h18).
9:46 Arrive at Fukushima station. Look for the Fukushima Tourist information center. Ask them about the bus bound for Jododaira, buy some food to snack on for lunch during your hike in Mt. Issaikyo.
11:30 Take the bus bound for Jododaira Visitor Center (Japanese website)
Hike your way down to Takayu Onsen (5 hours and half)
Before 19:00 Check-in at your ryokan in Takayu Onsen.
The Volcano Trail in Bandai-Asahi National Park features iconic spots such as Mt. Issaikyo, the scenic Jododaira area, Mt. Adatara with Dake Onsen, Numajiri Onsen, Takayu Onsen, and numerous other hot springs nestled along the Azuma mountain range. This region, centered around the Azuma range and Mt. Bandai, enchants visitors with its dramatic volcanic landscapes, interspersed with lush forests and shimmering lakes that create a vibrant and ever-changing environment. Conveniently reachable from major cities, it attracts outdoor enthusiasts throughout the year who come to enjoy hiking, nature discovery, relaxing in hot springs, and winter sports. Preserving alpine flora that harks back to ancient times, and featuring volcanic terrains that continuously reshape the scenery, Bandai-Asahi National Park covers a vast territory including the Dewa Sanzan, the Asahi and Iide mountain ranges, the Azuma range, Mt. Bandai, and Lake Inawashiro. It ranks as Japan’s third largest national park by land area.
This day will allow you to rest after your long hike in the Volcano Trail. The Matsushima hiking trail is a slow, peaceful stroll around the pacific coast to discover the place that particularly moved Matsuo Basho during his trip to the Narrow End of the World.
Take the bus from Takayu Onsen to Fukushima Station.
From Fukushima Station, take the Tohoku Shinkansen and make a transfer at Sendai Station for the Senseki line to reach Matsushima Kaigan station (approximative transportation time: 1h30min).
From there, explore the coast, visit the Godaido of Zuiganji Temple, hike the Fukuurajima Islet.
Go back on your steps, visit the Zuiganji Temple. Have lunch around the port
Explore the Ojima Islet.
If you have more time in the afternoon, take a cruise ship tour with the Matsushima-shima meguri boat tours (timetable)
Japan’s Three Scenic Views: Amanohashidate, Miyajima, and Matsushima
Japan’s renowned Nihon Sankei—the Three Scenic Views—refer to Amanohashidate in Kyoto, Miyajima in Hiroshima, and Matsushima in Miyagi Prefecture. The concept dates back to the Edo period and is attributed to Hayashi Gahō, a Confucian scholar, who mentioned these sites in his historical work Nihon Kokujiko.Matsushima refers to the collection of over 260 islands scattered within and around Matsushima Bay. These islands were once hills that, due to tectonic shifts, sank so that only the hilltops remained above sea level, forming the islands seen today. Each island, regardless of size, carries its own name, including Niojima, Senganjima, Komonejima, Kanejima, Futagojima, Kaerujima, and Yoroi-jima.
Beyond its breathtaking scenery, Matsushima has long been celebrated as a prime spot for moon viewing. Historical figures such as Date Masamune—the first lord of the Sendai domain—haiku poet Matsushima Basho, and even Albert Einstein reportedly visited the area to admire the moonlit vistas.
This day is mostly dedicated to transportation and will be your entrance gate to part of the Michinoku Coastal Trail — all while indulging in the flavors of Tohoku. After all, how better to fuel your body for the region’s scenic trails than with its delicious local specialties?
In Sendai, recharge with some much-needed carbs thanks to its signature treat: zunda mochi — pound rice cakes topped with a sweet edamame paste. Then head north to Aomori, where you can get your protein fix with the locals’ favorite: squid, served grilled or as fresh sashimi — the choice is yours!
Depart from Matsushima station to reach Sendai station with the Tohoku Line (26 min.)
From Sendai station, take the Tohoku Shinkansen bound for Shin-Aomori, but you will get off the train at Hachinohe Station (1h10min).
Visit the famous Kabushima Shrine that overlooks the sea and walk your way to the Kaisekiryōridokoro Kofunato restaurant where you’ll find the many seafood dishes that make the reputation of Aomori Prefecture.
In the afternoon, hike 1h30min down to Tanesashi’s Visitor Center to ask them what itinerary of the Michinoku Coastal trail fits your plans best. They’re the experts!
Visit the Itsukushima Shrine (40 min walk from the Tanesashi Visitor Center, 3km)
Go to Okuki station, take the train to Taneichi station (20min)
The Michinoku Coastal Trail: A Path of Recovery and Beauty
The Michinoku Coastal Trail is a key component of the Ministry of the Environment’s “Green Reconstruction Project,” established in response to the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami of 2011. Central to this effort to revitalize the Tohoku region was the creation of Sanriku Fukko (Reconstruction) National Park.
Through the collaboration of the Ministry of the Environment, four prefectures, 29 municipalities, local communities, and private organizations, the trail was developed in stages over several years. On June 9, 2019, the entire trail—stretching over 1,000 kilometers from Kabushima in Hachinohe, Aomori Prefecture, to Matsukawaura in Soma, Fukushima Prefecture—was officially opened as a national trail.
The Michinoku Coastal Trail offers stunning landscapes unique to the Pacific coast of Tohoku: sweeping views of the ocean, rivers, forests, and rural villages. The trail showcases the rich history, culture, and ways of life of communities living in harmony with nature, shaped by the region’s harsh yet abundant environment. Beyond its natural beauty, the trail is celebrated for the heartfelt connections forged between walkers and the people they meet along the way.
(D4) Michinoku Coastal Trail (Taneichi to Kuji station), Morioka
スライドが入ります 管理画面では1枚目のみ表示
This day will be busy with over 7 hours of walking along the coast from Taneichi to Kuji station.
Visit the Shirataki Shrine and the Samuraiishi viewpoints. Don’t skip the Yokonuma Observatory on the way.
Take the train at Kuji Station to go back to Hachinohe Station with the Hachinohe Line, to make a change for the Tohoku Shinkansen for Morioka (2h30min).
Have dinner inside Morioka station (note to foodies: Morioka’s staple dish is the Jajamen!)
Yamadera is a charming temple (Risshakuji Temple) atop a mountain which has to be reached through a 1000 steps walk in the forest. It’s an “easy introduction” to what will be waiting for you on Mt. Haguro the next day (some people say it’s 3 times harder to complete Mt. Haguro than Yamadera). It takes roughly 1 hour to walk to Yamadera’s top, but we recommend you reserve 3 hours in the area to fully appreciate the several temples and Buddhist relics along the way.
Depart early in the morning to reach Yamadera with the Tohoku shinkansen from Morioka station, from which you’ll have to make a transfer for the Senzan Line at Sendai station (2h30min).
Start your visit of Yamadera before 10am.
Once you’re done, have a bowl of ramen around Yamadera’s entrance point (but our favorite place is Enzo next to the Yamadera station)
If you have extra energy (and time), we recommend you explore the Tarimizu ruins next to Yamadera. Please don’t attempt this if you’re running out of time, it’s an extra 1-3 hours hike depending on whether you want to hike it all or not.
From Yamadera Station, reach Yamagata station with the Senzan line (20min) and take the bus bound for Tsuruoka/Sakata from the bus stop in front of Yamagata station at 17:43 (1h 45min, bus timetable).
Get off the bus at S-Mall Bus Terminal, stay at Daiichi Hotel.
Access & Info
Yamadera Temple: A Sacred Site Carved into Stone
Yamadera Temple, officially known as Risshaku-ji, is believed to have been founded in December 860 by the Buddhist priest Ennin (Jikaku Daishi) under the orders of Emperor Seiwa. Perched on a steep mountainside, the temple offers breathtaking views that transform with the seasons, framed by dramatic rock formations and sheer cliffs, and is said to preserve the “flame that never ceased to burn”.
Due to its historical connection with Mt. Hiei, the temple attracted merchants from the Omi region, which in turn helped spur the development of the safflower trade—a key industry in the area for centuries.
(D6) Mt. Haguro, the Rokujurigoe Kaido Pilgrimage trail
スライドが入ります 管理画面では1枚目のみ表示
Take the bus from S-Mall bus terminal to Mt. Haguro (Haguro-Gassan Hachigome line).
Get off the bus at Koganedomae.
Knock on the door of the Shozen’in temple to ask for opening the doors of the Koganedo Hall (500 yen/person). Visit the Koganedo Hall.
Walk to Zuishinmon gate (15 min).
Hike Mt. Haguro (1h30min). It’s very cardio to reach the top, please be prepared!
Have shojin-ryori lunch at Saikan (reservation needed, please ask reservation arrangements at Shoko Travel).
Hike down to Kotakuji temple (45min.)
Visit the Kotakuji temple.
Walk to Honmyoji Temple
Walk to Dainichibo Temple
Walk to Minshuku Nanakamado
Stay in Nanakamado
(D7) Mt. Yudono
スライドが入ります 管理画面では1枚目のみ表示
Walk the Rokujurigoe Kaido from Nanakamado (Tamugimata village) to Mt. Yudono (5 hours)
Have lunch at Yudonosan Resthouse
Take the Yudonosan-jinja Sanpai Shuttle Bus (300 yen/person round-trip, 10 min)
Visit Mt. Yudono’s holy waters (500 yen/person)
Take the shuttle bus back to Yudonosan Senninzawa.
16:30 Take the bus back to Tsuruoka
End of your trip, you can go back to Tokyo via Niigata with the Uetsu Line (Inaho Express) then the Joetsu Shinkansen. Last train departs from Tsuruoka station at 20:44.
Thank you for reading this sample itinerary in the Tohoku region! We hope it inspired you with fresh hiking ideas and encouraged you to explore Japan beyond the usual tourist routes. Please note that this itinerary is just a suggested example—it may not suit every traveler depending on individual interests, travel dates, or budget. We recommend researching each destination thoroughly before planning your trip, and making reservations on your own or through a trusted travel agency.
Tsuruoka’s festivals in May & early June (2025 edition)
“Matsuri” — that’s the Japanese word for festival! While most people associate matsuri with summer — and for good reason: most of them happen in summer — festivals in Japan take place throughout the year, including in spring. And Tsuruoka is no exception.
In Japanese culture, matsuri are moments to celebrate hare (ハレ) — auspicious, extraordinary occasions — in contrast to ke (ケ), which refers to the ordinary, everyday world. This distinction between hare and ke is deeply rooted in Japanese folklore and is the reason why people in Japan not only celebrate with matsuri, but also visit shrines for new life events—like exams, a new car, or the birth of a child.
On hare days, people step out of their usual routines: they wear special clothes (haregi 晴れ着), prepare celebratory meals (gochisō ご馳走), decorate their homes, and gather together in joyful community. This spirit of festivity is at the heart of every matsuri.
In May and June, Tsuruoka comes alive with spring matsuri — perfect opportunities to experience Japan’s hare culture firsthand. Here are just a few you won’t want to miss:
May 10th – Fujishima’s Wisteria Festival (Fujinohana Matsuri)
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Less famous than Japan’s iconic cherry blossom festivals, wisteria festivals are nonetheless a beloved spring tradition.
With their graceful, cascading blooms in shades of purple, white, and pink, wisteria flowers bring a soft, elegant charm to villages across Japan — and Tsuruoka is no exception.
One of the best places to admire wisteria in Tsuruoka is Fujishima, a suburb whose name quite literally means “Wisteria Island” — and it lives up to that name!
Wisteria typically bloom a little later — and last a little longer — than cherry blossoms, offering about two weeks of floral beauty. Mid to late May is the perfect time to visit Tsuruoka for a peaceful wisteria-viewing stroll. During the Fujishima Wisteria blooming season, the main sight spots are: Fujishima Historical Park surroundings and the Fujishima Gymnasium. Don’t forget to stop by the Higashi Tagawa Cultural Museum !
How to go?
By train: Take the Uetsu Main Line towards Sakata from Tsuruoka station, get off at Fujishima station (7min).
Walk 10 min. until the Fujishima Historical Park (directions)
Tsuruoka’s Tenjin Matsuri is one of the three biggest festivals in the Shonai region.
Every year on May 25th, Tsuruoka comes alive with the vibrant and mysterious Tenjin Matsuri. During this unique festival centered around the Tenmangu shrine, hundreds of masked figures known as bakemono — literally “disguised people” (note to Japanese learners: it does not mean “monsters” in this case!) — take to the streets carrying bottles of sake and cups in hand. Their purpose? To offer free sake to anyone willing to accept it.
The origins:
Celebrated across Japan, Tenjin Matsuri honors Sugawara no Michizane (845–903), a respected scholar and statesman later deified as Tenjin, the angry god of thunder and learning.
After being unjustly exiled to Kyushu due to court intrigue, Michizane died in sorrow. Soon after, disasters struck those involved in his exile. To appease his vengeful spirit, he was enshrined as a god — and his legacy is celebrated annually at Tenmangu shrines.
Tsuruoka’s version of the festival reenacts Michizane’s exile. According to legend, townspeople in Kyoto, unable to speak to an exile without risking punishment from the authorities, disguised themselves with masks, hats, and unisex clothing to bid him farewell in silence — offering sake as a sign of respect.
This masked, wordless farewell legend lives on in Tsuruoka’s unique Tenjin Matsuri, where locals honor Michizane with silent hospitality and shared sake. Events start at 11am but food/drink stands will start offering their products at 9am. The parade will start in the afternoon at around 2pm and end by 6pm.
How to go?
By bus: Bus might not operate as usual since the roads of the central part of Tsuruoka city will be under regulation. Don’t hesitate to stop at our Tsuruoka Tourist Information Office for more information about how to reach the Tenmangu Shrine (it’s a 30min. walk from the station). The festival will start/concentrate around the Tenmangu shrine, but parades will happen in several areas of the central area of Tsuruoka city. Follow the crowds!
The beloved Takitaro Matsuri, held in Tsuruoka’s southern Asahi area, is a highlight for local families and children. Timed with the opening of the hiking season in the Asahi mountain range, the village of Otori comes alive with fun-filled activities for all ages — from tree climbing and fish catching to slacklining, boat rides on Arasawa Lake, forest concerts, and more! (Please note: some activities require a small cash fee.). Takitaro Matsuri is a joyful and friendly celebration that invites you to immerse yourself in the lush nature of Tsuruoka’s Asahi area. Events start at 9:30am.
How to go?
-By car: You can park your car at the Takitaro Park’s Autocamp field (hence this day, the camp field can’t be used for camping purposes).
-By bus: There will be a free shuttle bus from Asahi Chosha on that day only, that will run every hour or so (it takes 30min. to reach the festival location by bus from there). To reach Asahi Chosha, take the bus bound for Ochiai from Tsuruoka station or S-mall bus terminal and gett off at Asahi Chosha 朝日庁舎.
June 1st – Mt. Yudono’s Opening Ceremony (Yudonosan Kaizansai)
This is not a typical “matsuri” with lively crowds and music. Instead, it marks the official opening of Mt. Yudono’s sacred season with an official prayer at Yudonosan Shrine—marking the start of the mountain’s hiking season. Please note that bus services to Mt. Yudono have not yet been announced, so private transportation is currently required. We apologize for the inconvenience.
Photos of the Yudonosan-jinja shrine and its surroundings are strictly forbidden for religious reasons. The ceremony will start at 11am.
How to go?
-By car: Park your car at Yudonosan Senninzawa’s parking lot. Take the Yudonosan-jinja Sanpai shuttle bus from there (400 yen for a two-way ticket).
June 5th – Oyama’s Dog Festival (Oyama Inu Matsuri)
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One of the other three big Shonai matsuri, the Oyama Dog Festival is a centuries-old tradition celebrating the bravery of Mekke-inu, a legendary dog said to have saved the village from demons. The event features lively parades (including dog parades!) and rituals all across the Oyama suburb, beginning in the Uzen-Oyama station and ending at the Sugio Shrine. This festival is dedicated to the loyalty and courage of all dogs in the world who are ready to protect their masters/humans to the point of risking their lives, as shown in the Mekke-inu legend.
The Legend of Mekke-inu Over 300 years ago, demons haunted Sugio Shrine, demanding the sacrifice of the village’s most beautiful girl each June 5th. One year, a traveling Shugendo pilgrim witnessed the tragic ritual and vowed to stop it. He journeyed to Tanba (modern-day Kyoto) to find Mekke-inu, a dog mentioned in the demons’ song. Though just an ordinary dog, Mekke-inu was brought back to Oyama.
On the day of the sacrifice, Mekke-inu was secretly placed in the sacrificial carriage. When the demons opened it, the dog attacked fiercely. The battle ended with both the dog and demons dead—Mekke-inu had saved the village.
Today, the festival honors this act of courage, celebrating loyalty and protection, and keeping Mekke-inu’s story alive.
Events and parades will start at 10am but parades will start from the Uzen-Oyama station at 11:30am. The culminating point of the festival will be at 4:00pm at Sugio-jinja shrine with the mikoshi divine carriage procession.
How to go?
-By bus: Take the bus bound for Yunohama Onsen (via Kamo Aquarium or Zenpoji Temple). Get off the bus at Oyama Shoginmae, or Oyama yubinkyokumae or Oyamakamihonmachi
Thank you for exploring Tsuruoka’s May and June festivals with us. We hope these unique celebrations inspire you to visit and create unforgettable memories in our vibrant corner of Japan.
Tsuruoka, a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy: Where & what to eat?
In 2014, Tsuruoka proudly became the first city in Japan to be recognized as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. This title celebrates the deep-rooted connection between our land, our people, and our food. It honors the dedication of local farmers who have preserved the unique flavors of over 50 heirloom crops (zairaisakumotsu 在来作物), passed down through generations. It also highlights the rich culinary heritage that continues to inspire chefs to craft innovative dishes, blending time-honored traditions with modern creativity.
Now that we’ve whetted your appetite—what and where can you truly taste the essence of Tsuruoka’s gastronomy?
Where to eat?
(Open the map in a new tab to see each category. Warning: this list is non-exhaustive, there are many other delicious places hidden across the city!)
What to eat?
Dewa Sanzan’s Shojin-ryori
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Shojin-ryori, like all of Tsuruoka’s traditional cuisine, is deeply rooted in the rhythms of the seasons. The ingredients and flavors change throughout the year, offering a different experience depending on when you sit down to eat.
Different type of ferns and leaves, called sansai 山菜, traditionnally used in the Dewa Sanzan Shojin-ryori
From late April to mid-May, the spotlight is on fresh mountain vegetables (sansai 山菜). You might enjoy kogomi (ostrich fern) served as crisp tempura or urui (plantain lily) dressed in a sweet-and-sour miso sauce. In summer, the focus shifts to vegetables grown in the fertile Shonai plains—eggplants, tomatoes, and the beloved dadachamame, a local variety of edamame. Autumn brings a bounty of wild mushrooms: tempura made with maitake (hen-of-the-woods) or a hearty miso and sake-lees soup featuring simmered shiitake. Winter relies on preserved mountain vegetables, carefully rehydrated and cooked into warming, salty dishes that bring new life to the foraged harvests of earlier months.
One element remains constant throughout the year: goma dofu (胡麻豆腐), or sesame tofu. A signature of Dewa Sanzan’s shojin-ryori, this dish requires nearly four hours to prepare. The sesame seeds are ground and pressed by hand to extract their rich juice, which is then energically cooked and set until it forms a smooth, delicate jelly. It’s typically served with a sweet, glossy soy-based sauce called ankake, and is beloved for both its subtle flavor and its silky texture.
Dewa Sanzan’s shojin-ryori is not vegan by default!
Shojin-ryori on the Dewa Sanzan has evolved over the centuries. Originally a vegan Buddhist cuisine, it has since incorporated elements of Shinto practice. For instance, the miso soup often includes dashi made with bonito flakes, and some shukubo (pilgrims’ lodgings) may even serve fish as part of their meals. This shift stems from the historical conversion of the Dewa Sanzan to Shinto in 1869, following the 1868 Shinbutsu Bunri law that mandated the separation of Buddhism and Shinto. If you require a fully vegan Shojin-ryori meal, we recommend either requesting lunch at a Buddhist temple such as Gyokusenji or making a special request directly to your shukubo at least three days prior to your visit.
Goma-dofu 胡麻豆腐 “Sesame tofu”
Where to eat?
-In Tamonkan, a ryokan (traditional Japanese accommodation) located in Mt. Haguro’s Shukubogai.
-In Shukubo lodges that belong to the Dewa Sanzan Shojin-Ryori Project (mainly on Mt. Haguro + Yudonosan Sanrojo in Mt. Yudono + Busshoike Goya on Mt. Gassan).
-In Gyokusenji Temple (upon request as well). This is the only place where the shojin-ryori is vegan by default, as it is served in a Buddhist Temple.
Most places need a prior reservation to your visit. Our local travel agencies can help you make a reservation. Contact us.
☞ Look for the “Dewa Sanzan Shojin-Ryori” category on our culinary map
Seafood: fugu (blowfish), sushi & sashimi, fish soups…
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Tsuruoka’s proximity to the coast grants it daily access to an abundance of fresh fish, shellfish, and seaweeds, which have sustained its people for generations. But what truly sets Tsuruoka’s seafood apart is a unique natural and spiritual connection to the mountains that tower above it.
For centuries, locals believed that the melting snow from Mt. Gassan—the highest and holiest of the Dewa Sanzan—carried sacred minerals from its pristine summits down through mountain streams and rivers, eventually flowing into the Sea of Japan. This nutrient-rich water was thought to nourish the coastal waters, giving rise to vibrant marine life. This spiritual ecology shaped not only how the region’s people viewed their food, but also how they prepared and appreciated it—with deep reverence for nature’s cycles.
Summer seafood: squids and rock oysters
Rock oysters or the Japanese flying squid are some of the emblematic ingredients of Tsuruoka’s seafood during summer
Autumn seafood: sandfish and sweet shrimps
Exemple of a dinner at Kameya Hotel during autumn
Winter seafood: Fugu, anglerfish and black cod
The “tiger blowfish” (torafugu), anglerfish soup, or the most famous “kandara-jiru” (black cod soup) are Tsuruoka’s winter staples.
Spring seafood: seabreams and trouts
Spring is one of the best season to enjoy seabreams, grilled within a thick crust of salt, or trout like the silver trout or the cherry trout in a slightly sugary soy sauce.
Where to eat?
-In sushi restaurants (there are so many of them in central Tsuruoka but also along the coast of the Sea of Japan!)
-In kaiseki-ryori type of restaurants. They are the best places to eat refined fish dishes. Most of them require a reservation, please check beforehand.
-In ryokan and onsen for dinner as part of a stay plan.
-In Okimizuki, the restaurant inside the Kamo Aquarium.
☞ Look for the “Sushi” and “Seafood” categories on our culinary map
Farmer cuisine
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Tsuruoka’s cuisine has earned recognition from UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network, thanks largely to its unique agricultural practices—such as yakihata (slash-and-burn farming), heirloom seed preservation techniques, and the traditional “shibunuki” method used to remove the bitterness from Shonai persimmons using alcohol or carbonated water to enhance their sweetness. What better place to experience the fruits of these time-honored efforts than at a farmer-run restaurant?
Moso bamboo soup (moso-jiru 孟宗汁)
Emblematic dish of the Yutagawa area during Spring, it features pieces of the crunchy, earthy Moso bamboo, fried tofu, and shiitake mushrooms in a miso-soup mixed with sake lees.
Imoni yam soup (芋煮)
While more of a traditional family dish than a typical farmer’s meal, imoni is a beloved autumn staple throughout Yamagata Prefecture. In the Shonai region, where Tsuruoka is located, imoni features a miso-based broth with pork, whereas in the inland areas of Yamagata, it’s commonly prepared with a soy sauce-based soup and beef.
Tsukemono pickled ingredients (漬物)
Tsuruoka is home to a rich variety of tsukemono (Japanese pickles), a culinary heritage born from the region’s long, harsh winters. These conditions inspired local communities to develop preservation techniques that ensured year-round nutrition. As part of Japan’s traditional preserved foods (hozonshoku 保存食), Tsuruoka’s pickles stand out—especially the vibrant Atsumi turnip (Atsumi-kabu 温海カブ), pickled in vinegar and sugar, and the distinctive Minden eggplant (Minden-nasu no karashi-zuke 民田茄子の辛子漬け), pickled in mustard. In farmer-run restaurants, tsukemono are a staple, always served to complement the meal.
Where to eat?
-In minshuku, minpaku, nohaku types of traditional farmer lodgings
-For Moso-bamboo soup : Yutagawa Onsen’s ryokans are the best place to be!
While visiting the Japanese countryside might not seem like the ideal setting to enjoy Italian cuisine, if you find yourself craving a break from Japanese food, we invite you to try our unique fusion of European and local flavors. Many of our chefs are masters at incorporating heirloom crops into refined Italian and French-inspired dishes, offering you delicious European cuisine with a unique touch of Tsuruoka-ness in every bite!
Where to eat?
-In “Pino Collina”, the restaurant inside Matsugaoka’s Reclamation Lands (also known as “the Samurai Silk Farms”). Pino Collina produces its own wine.
-In Al-che-cciano, restaurant of chef Okuta, one of the 1000 best Chefs in the World in 2006 by the Italian Slow Food Contest “Terra Madre”, and ranked 3rd at the contest The Vegetarian Chance in 2016.
-In Yunohama Onsen’s “Yunohama 100 Years Kitchen”
-In Tsuruoka central city’s restaurants: La Naturalité (French), Pomme de Terre (Basque/French cuisine), Jour Faste (French/fusion), Hare to ke (Italian/fusion)…
And many more!
☞ Look for the “Italian/French restaurants” categories on our culinary map
Local sweets: sasamaki, Tsuruoka hinagashi, mochi, fruit deserts…
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Tsuruoka is not just about vegetables and pickles—it’s also a hidden gem for traditional sweets. In spring, during the month of Hinamatsuri (Girls’ Day) in March, local confectionery shops create Tsuruoka Hinagashi, the region’s unique take on the colorful festival treats. Unlike the typical hard candies seen elsewhere, Tsuruoka’s hinagashi are soft, delicate cakes made with anko (sweet bean paste) and shaped to represent local ingredients such as moso bamboo, Shonai persimmons, and cherries.
Another local specialty is sasamaki—a gelatinous steamed rice cake wrapped in a bamboo leaf. The rice is first soaked in water mixed with ashes, a traditional technique that extends its shelf life. It’s typically enjoyed with brown sugar syrup and kinako (roasted soy flour).
Manju are also a must-try when visiting Tsuruoka’s hot springs, especially those from Yutagawa Onsen. Some are even humorously shaped like breasts, paying homage to the village’s sacred Breasted Ginkgo Tree (Chichi Icho 乳銀杏), which stands in front of Yuzusame Shrine.
Finally, tochimochi—mochi made from local horse chestnuts—is a delicacy that takes real effort to prepare. The chestnuts must be boiled thoroughly to remove their natural bitterness, and the mochi rice is soaked for hours in cold water after being cooked so it can be pounded. The result is a treat that blends sweetness and umami in every bite. There are so many unique, delicious sweets across Tsuruoka that it’d be impossible to list them all down, but check the local confectionery shops (wagashiya 和菓子屋) or souvenir shops and you’ll see them all!
-Sasamaki = in From Tei’s restaurant or Asahi Gu (depends on the season)
And many more!
☞ Look for the “Traditional Japanese sweets” categories on our culinary map
Of course, these are just a few highlights from Tsuruoka’s rich and diverse culinary culture. Across the city, you’ll find countless restaurants—each with their own specialties and stories—carrying on these traditions with pride and creativity. Whether you’re dining at a farmer-run eatery, a family-owned confectionery, or a refined local restaurant, Tsuruoka offers an authentic taste of Japan’s first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy.
Tattoo-friendly onsen in Tsuruoka city (short list)
Why do tattoos have such a bad image in Japan?
Tattoos have a long and complex history in Japan. Surprisingly, there was a time when they were embraced as a form of fashion. During the Edo period in particular, tattoos became popular among commoners, and a vibrant culture of body art emerged.
At the same time, however, there was also a form of punishment known as irezumi-kei, where tattoos were forcibly applied to criminals to mark their offenses.
Because of this dual history, tattoos in Japan came to symbolize both personal expression and criminality. In the 18th century, the Edo shogunate banned tattooing as punishment, and the Meiji government later imposed strict regulations on tattooing altogether.
From that point on, tattoos became increasingly hidden from public view and began to carry a strong stigma, seen as something negative or undesirable, mostly used by marginal groups (and even violent groups) to signify their will to dissociate from society.
Unbekannt, Japanese Tattoo, 1880–1890, Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe Hamburg, Public Domain, Online: https://www.mkg-hamburg.de/object/dc00039948
Why, then, are tattoos often prohibited at hot springs and public baths in Japan? One reason is historical—tattoos were once associated with criminal punishment.
This created a lingering negative perception of tattoos that persists today. “Tattoos = criminal/violent person”.
Because hot springs are places where people expose their skin, many facilities still restrict entry to those with tattoos, out of concern for how they might make other guests feel.
However, attitudes toward tattoos are gradually changing across Japan. More and more places now recognize that tattoos are no longer just a symbol of criminality—they’ve become a form of fashion, a means of self-expression, and even a deeply personal or spiritual symbol for many people.
Tsuruoka is no exception. Here too, you’ll find onsen that welcome guests with tattoos. We’d be happy to introduce you to them (non-exhaustive list).
1. Komaginoyu こまぎの湯
This community daytime onsen (no stay plan) is beloved by the local for its “beauty properties” on the skin!
The Komaginoyu hot spring, sourced from 1,500 meters underground features two large communal baths, the facility features a sit-down bath, a Japanese garden-style outdoor bath, and the largest sauna in the prefecture, accommodating up to 30 people. It’s a well-equipped day-use hot spring perfect for soothing your travel fatigue or treating yourself to a daily indulgence.
The source water is heated and diluted, but no circulation or filtration systems are used for the main baths. However, the massage baths are heated and do use circulation and filtration systems.
Properties
Spring Quality Sodium-calcium sulfate spring
Health Benefits Effective for: arteriosclerosis, cuts, burns, chronic skin conditions, neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain, motor paralysis, joint stiffness, bruises, sprains, chronic digestive disorders, hemorrhoids, sensitivity to cold, frozen shoulder, recovery after illness, fatigue recovery, and overall health promotion. (Due to the high temperature of the source water, it is diluted with cold water.)
How to visit
Operating Hours 6:00 AM – 9:00 PM (Last entry: 8:30 PM) Closed: Second Wednesday of each month
Day-Use Admission Fees
Adults (Junior high school and up): ¥650
Children (Elementary school students): ¥270
Free for preschool-aged children and younger ※ Mixed bathing is not permitted for elementary school-aged children and older.
Bus stop nearby:
Komaginoyu こまぎの湯 (Tsuruoka City Local Bus C, bus timetable)
2. Yamabushi Onsen “Yupoka” やまぶし温泉ゆぽか
Yupoka is a popular community day-use onsen, cherished by locals for its therapeutic waters. Conveniently located between Mt. Haguro and the Matsugaoka Reclamation Land (the silk farms of the Samurai Silk, a Japan Heritage), it’s the perfect place to unwind after a strenuous hike up Mt. Haguro’s famous stone steps. The facility features multiple rest rooms that can be reserved for a quick nap or a fun karaoke session with friends and family. There’s also a small shop selling groceries and souvenirs, as well as a cozy cafeteria known for its delicious ramen.
Properties
Spring Quality
Sodium-Calcium Chloride Spring
Health Benefits Minor cuts, burns, chronic skin conditions, weak constitution in children, chronic gynecological disorders, neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain, frozen shoulder, motor paralysis, joint stiffness, bruises, sprains, chronic digestive issues, hemorrhoids, sensitivity to cold, recovery from illness, fatigue recovery, and general health promotion.
Contraindications (Conditions and symptoms for which bathing should be avoided) Acute illnesses (especially with fever), active tuberculosis, malignant tumors, serious heart conditions, respiratory failure, renal failure, bleeding disorders, severe anemia, other progressive general illnesses, and pregnancy (especially in the early and late stages).
How to visit
Hours of Operation Bathing: 6:00 AM – 10:00 PM (Last entry: 9:20 PM) Cafeteria:
Lunch: 11:00 AM – 2:30 PM
Dinner (Saturday, Sunday, and holidays): 5:00 PM – 8:30 PM (Last order: 8:00 PM) Large Hall: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM Private Rest Rooms (8 and 12 tatami mats): 9:00 AM – 9:30 PM (Reservation required) Multi-purpose Room: 9:00 AM – 10:00 PM (Reservation required)
Usage Fees Bathing
Adults: ¥450, Elementary school children and under: ¥220
Large Rest Hall Ticket
Adults: ¥200, Children: ¥100
Private Rest Rooms
From ¥1,200 (2 hours) to ¥1,600+ ¥250 for every additional 30 minutes
Multi-purpose Room
9:00 AM – 5:00 PM: ¥1,000 (per hour)+ ¥500 (for every additional 30 minutes)
Bus stop nearby: Yupoka (Bus bound for Mt. Haguro: bus timetable)
3. Yaotome 八乙女 in Yura Onsen 由良温泉
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At Yaotome, hospitality begins the moment you step into the lobby—echoing the spirit of the eight maidens who once welcomed Prince Hachiko with heartfelt care. Nestled along the scenic coast of Shonai, our hotel offers sweeping views of the Sea of Japan, where golden sunsets paint the shoreline. Unwind in their Roman-style open-air bath or soothe your senses in the sauna, all while gazing out at the beachside horizon. Yura Onsen was selected as Japan’s 100 most beautiful sunsets and 100 most beautiful beaches, and Yaotome is the perfect place to admire both these amazing views. More about Yura Onsen
Properties
Spring Quality
Sodium-Calcium Sulfate Hot Spring (Hypotonic, mildly alkaline)
Health Benefits
This mildly alkaline sodium-calcium sulfate hot spring, with a source temperature of 58°C, is known to support relief from chronic muscle and joint pain or stiffness—including conditions like arthritis, neuralgia, and lower back pain—as well as aid in recovery from bruises and sprains. It also promotes circulation, helps with cold sensitivity, digestive discomfort, mild hypertension, diabetes, and high cholesterol. Guests may also find relief from mild asthma, hemorrhoid pain, and stress-related issues such as insomnia or low mood. The spring further supports recovery during convalescence, fatigue relief, skin hydration, and overall health and wellness.
How to visit
This onsen doesn’t offer daytime bathing services, but welcomes guests from all around the world to stay for the night! Here’s their website (in Japanese) : http://yaotome.in.net/; you can also book on Booking.com.
Bus stop nearby: Yura Onsen (bus bound for Atsumi Onsen: bus timetable)
4. Book a private bath “kashikiri-buro” 貸切風呂 in Yutagawa Onsen 湯田川温泉
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Surrounded by lush nature and steeped in warm local hospitality, the historic hot spring village of Yutagawa Onsen welcomes visitors year-round. With a history spanning over 1,300 years, Yutagawa was officially designated as a “National Hot Spring Health Resort” by Japan’s Ministry of the Environment in 2001—a recognition given to hot spring areas with exceptional waters, serene natural settings, and well-maintained facilities.
Yutagawa is best known as a traditional “toji” (therapeutic retreat) destination, where visitors come not only to relax but to heal. According to legend, the spring was discovered in the year 712 when a wounded white heron healed its injuries in the waters—earning Yutagawa the poetic nickname Shirasagi no Yu (Heron’s Bath). Its sulfate-rich waters, gushing at an impressive 1,000 liters per minute, are particularly effective for treating arteriosclerosis, cuts, burns, and other skin ailments. The spring is also said to have calming effects and may help lower blood pressure.
Yutagawa is also home to a rare cultural tradition called Ushitoji—a midsummer ritual where people bathe on the Day of the Ox in late July, believed to ensure good health for the coming year. As part of this tradition, a purification ceremony is held at the sacred Yuzusame Shrine, where the local Yutagawa Onsen Kagura (sacred Shinto music and dance) is performed both at the shrine and at select inns by reservation.
Most ryokan in Yutagawa Onsen are cozy, family-run inns that offer private bathing options known as kashikiri-buro (貸切風呂). These intimate baths can be reserved on the spot, allowing you and your companions to enjoy the healing waters of Yutagawa in complete privacy—no need to worry about tattoos or sharing the space with strangers. Not every ryokan offers this service, so here’s a list of those that do:
-Kuhe : a luxurious ryokan that allows tattooed guests to book its kashikiri-buro but not its communal bath. English website
-Tamaya : a cozy ryokan that possesses three kashikiri-buro, some of them giving the best views on the Shonai plains. English website
-Masuya : a comfortable, stylish ryokan with three kashikiri-buro and a beautiful chanoma lounge. English website
-Tsukasaya : a heartwarming, cozy ryokan with the best local sake tasting dinners that also has two kashikiri-buro. English website
-Ridayu : another cozy ryokan that possesses a kashikiri-buro. Ridayu Ryokan’s motto? “Pure hot spring water, locally sourced cuisine, and heartfelt hospitality — these are what make us special.”
How to go to Yutagawa Onsen
Take the bus bound for Yutagawa Onsen from Tsuruoka Station or S-MALL Bus Terminal, get off the bus at Yutagawa Onsen (bus timetable)
Thank you for reading our guide to tattoo-friendly onsen and ryokan in Tsuruoka. While some facilities may still have restrictions, we hope this information helps you find a warm welcome and a relaxing soak during your stay. Tsuruoka is a place of deep hospitality, tradition, and healing waters—and we hope your time here is as memorable as it is rejuvenating.
Shogin TACT Tsuruoka’s Cultural Hall
Shōgin TACT Tsuruoka opened in 2018 as a hub for culture and the arts in Tsuruoka City. The main hall uses a vineyard-style seating arrangement, creating an immersive space with excellent acoustics and visibility. It is equipped to host a wide range of concerts, performing arts, and events.
This cultural hall, rebuilt as a base for local cultural and artistic activities, features a design centered around a fly tower, with a cluster of smaller roofs breaking up the building’s overall mass. These segmented roofs gradually lower toward the outer edges, with the structure becoming single-story along the roadside. This design aims to harmonize with the surrounding townscape, which includes historic buildings (the neighboring Chido Clan School) and residential houses.
How to visit
Address: 11-61 Babachō, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture
Access:
By Bus: About 10 minutes from JR Tsuruoka Station; get off at Tsuruoka Shiyakushomae, 1-minute walk
Bus timetable (many bus lines stop at this bus stop, bus this is the clearest English timetable)
Opening Hours: 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM *Until 10:00 PM on event days
Closed: Year-end/New Year holidays (December 29 – January 3)
Notes: Wi-Fi available in the entrance area
Dewa no Yuki’s Sake Brewery & Museum
In 1669, the Oyama domain became tenryo (shogunate-controlled land). Around that time, there were as many as 40 sake breweries operating in the area. Historical documents from the period remain, recording the names of the brewery owners and the amount of sake they produced (measured in the traditional koku unit).
Oyama was home to a unique guild of sake brewers known as the Ōyama Tōji. These master brewers not only traveled to work at breweries across the Tohoku region, but also attracted young apprentices from sake-producing families in Tohoku and Echigo (present-day Niigata), who came to train in Ōyama.
While it is common in many regions for farmers to work as seasonal brewers during the winter months, Oyama was different. Until around the early Showa period (1920’s, 1930’s), the sake industry here was supported mainly by craftsmen—carpenters, plasterers, and others—whose own work slowed during the winter season.
Oyama itself was like a town of artisans, with neighborhoods such as coppersmiths, woodworkers, carpenters, blacksmiths, and dyers. These craftsmen lived and worked in close-knit communities, constantly sharing knowledge, refining their techniques, and taking pride in their work. This diligent and cooperative spirit is said to have been the foundation of Oyama’s rich sake-brewing tradition.
Visit the Dewa No Yuki Museum and have a taste at the end of the experience of a selection of three sakes picked by the shop’s worker.
How to visit
Open from 8:45 to 16:30
200 yen/person. English explanation about the exhibition available on your phone by scanning the QR codes!
Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Shogin Mae 大山荘銀前 (bus timetable)
The factory itself needs a prior reservation (form) to be visited (for free), but the shop is still a good stop to make with its huge variety of tsukemono (Japanese pickled/marinated vegetables).
Honcho has been in business for over 100 years in Oyama, Tsuruoka. Since its founding, it has remained committed to using vegetables grown locally in Yamagata, along with sake lees sourced from the Shonai region. Guided by its company motto—“Making the most of Shonai’s natural bounty to enrich food culture for all”—Honcho has continued to produce pickles using the same traditional methods passed down through generations. Tsukemono are a very important part of Tsuruoka’s gastronomy, counting as one of the city’s many methods of “food preservation” (hozonshoku 保存食) that helped the people feed on nutritious food during the harsh winters.
By continuing to use local vegetables, it aims to support and promote regional agriculture. At the same time, it is also exploring new forms of pickles that go beyond conventional boundaries, a reflect of Tsuruoka’s UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy title.
How to visit
Location: 1-7-7 Ōyama, Tsuruoka City Phone: +81235-33-2023 Access: 20 minutes by bus from Tsuruoka Station toward Yunohama Get off at “Oyama Shonaiginkomae” and walk 10 minutes Hours: 8:30 AM – 4:30 PM (Reservation required) Closed: Open year-round (No holidays) Fee: Free of charge Official Website:http://www.k-honcho.co.jp/
Saké, Pickles, Flowers & Birds : An idea of a day-trip to Oyama (surburb of Tsuruoka)
One reason some travelers find Tsuruoka a bit confusing is that the city encompasses a wide area with many outlying neighborhoods (or “suburbs”) and former villages. As shown on the map above, Tsuruoka is divided into six administrative districts, each containing various suburban areas—some of which are still referred to as “villages” in English. Oyama falls within the “Central Tsuruoka” district, although its location isn’t exactly central, as you can see. While not technically in Oyama, several of Tsuruoka’s main tourist attractions are located nearby—such as Zenpoji Temple and, along the coast, the Kamo Aquarium—both just an 8-minute drive away.
Oyama can be reached by bus with the bus bound for Yunohama Onsen via Kamo Aquarium (bus timetable) OR the bus bound for Yunohama Onsen via Zenpoji Temple (bus timetable). They are not the same, don’t mistake them!
So, once you’re there, what’s to do in Oyama?
1. The Honcho Pickles factory 本長
While the factory itself needs a prior reservation (form) to be visited (for free), the shop is still a good stop to make with its huge variety of tsukemono (Japanese pickled/marinated vegetables).
Honcho has been in business for over 100 years in Oyama, Tsuruoka. Since its founding, it has remained committed to using vegetables grown locally in Yamagata, along with sake lees sourced from the Shonai region. Guided by its company motto—“Making the most of Shonai’s natural bounty to enrich food culture for all”—Honcho has continued to produce pickles using the same traditional methods passed down through generations. Tsukemono are a very important part of Tsuruoka’s gastronomy, counting as one of the city’s many methods of “food preservation” (hozonshoku 保存食) that helped the people feed on nutritious food during the harsh winters.
By continuing to use local vegetables, it aims to support and promote regional agriculture. At the same time, it is also exploring new forms of pickles that go beyond conventional boundaries, a reflect of Tsuruoka’s UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy title.
Our recommendation?
Minden eggplants (small, round local eggplants) pickled in karashi (Japanese mustard), a dish called “minden nasu no karashi-zuke” “民田茄子の辛子漬”. They are very spicy, but once you acquire the taste, those little eggplants make the perfect appetizers to accompany your meals. Appreciate them with some Chardonnay-type of white wine to counterbalance the mustard’s vivid spiciness with the wine’s soft tanginess, or pair them with some creamy, round-taste junmai sake (pure-rice non polished). Those powerful little eggplants will be something you’ll crave over and over again.
How to visit
Upon reservation at +81235-33-2023 (Japanese only). Open from 8:30 to 16:30
Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Shogin Mae 大山荘銀前 (bus timetable)
2. Watarai’s sake brewery and their sake museum: Dewa no Yuki Shiryokan 出羽ノ雪酒造資料館
In 1669, the Oyama domain became tenryo (shogunate-controlled land). Around that time, there were as many as 40 sake breweries operating in the area. Historical documents from the period remain, recording the names of the brewery owners and the amount of sake they produced (measured in the traditional koku unit).
Oyama was home to a unique guild of sake brewers known as the Ōyama Tōji. These master brewers not only traveled to work at breweries across the Tohoku region, but also attracted young apprentices from sake-producing families in Tohoku and Echigo (present-day Niigata), who came to train in Ōyama.
While it is common in many regions for farmers to work as seasonal brewers during the winter months, Oyama was different. Until around the early Showa period (1920’s, 1930’s), the sake industry here was supported mainly by craftsmen—carpenters, plasterers, and others—whose own work slowed during the winter season.
Oyama itself was like a town of artisans, with neighborhoods such as coppersmiths, woodworkers, carpenters, blacksmiths, and dyers. These craftsmen lived and worked in close-knit communities, constantly sharing knowledge, refining their techniques, and taking pride in their work. This diligent and cooperative spirit is said to have been the foundation of Oyama’s rich sake-brewing tradition.
Visit the Dewa No Yuki Museum and have a taste at the end of the experience of a selection of three sakes picked by the shop’s worker.
Our recommendation?
While the museum features QR codes that display English information on your cellphone (connection to internet required), we recommend you use the help of a local guide to help you navigate in the complex world of sake and grasp all the richness of agriculture in the Shonai region. Send a mail to our interpreter-guide association: Chat-Chat!
3. The Kamiike, Shimoike lakes and its nearby nature-preservation center: Hotoria ほとりあ
Takadate Mountain and its surrounding lakes Oyama Kami-ike & Shimo-ike’s Wetlands Takadate Mountain and its surrounding area, including Kami-ike (Upper Lake) and Shimo-ike (Lower Lake), are designated as bird and wildlife protection zones under the Ramsar Convention. The region, part of the Shonai Coastal Prefectural Nature Park, features a rare beech forest and a rich mix of cold- and warm-climate plants, making it a unique ecosystem.
A Haven for Wild Birds The Upper and Lower Ponds are vital wintering grounds for migratory waterfowl, including 20,000 to 30,000 mallards, as well as Eurasian Teals and Smews. Swans, such as the Whooper Swan, and geese like the Greater White-fronted Goose also frequent the area. Additionally, small birds like the Yellow-breasted Bunting and Common Redpoll pass through during migration. The best place to spot birds around the Shimoike Lake is the Oura Bird Lovers’ Hall おうら愛鳥館.
Diverse Flora and Fauna The ponds are home to rare dragonfly species like the Violet Dropwing and Giant Darner, as well as various butterfly species. The area boasts a wide variety of trees, including Horse Chestnut and Maple, along with plants native to the Sea of Japan, such as Marsh Wisteria and Yellow Columbine.
Lotus Flowers In July, lotus flowers bloom in the Upper Pond, reaching their peak in August. Local residents harvest the flowers during the Obon festival, offering them at the altar to honor ancestors.
Birds species present around the lakes (excerpt)
マガモ – Mallard/wild duck
コガモ – Eurasian Teal (or Common Teal)
ホシハジロ – Common Pochard
カワウ – Great Cormorant
ジョウビタキ – Daurian Redstart
ヒヨドリ – Brown-eared Bulbul
カルガモ – Eastern Spot-billed Duck
And many more!
How to visit
Hotoria’s Opening Hours 9:00 AM – 4:30 PM
Closed Every Tuesday / Year-end and New Year holidays (December 29 – January 3) ※ If Tuesday falls on a national holiday, the museum will be closed on the nearest weekday following that day (that is not a holiday). ※ Please refer to the “Event Newsletter” for details on closed days.
Admission Free
Parking
15 regular cars
2 spaces for visitors with disabilities ※ The Oyama Park parking lot is also available (40 spaces for regular cars / large vehicles accepted) ※ Please note: Roads around the facility are narrow, making two-way traffic difficult, and include tight turns. For this reason, large buses should avoid long-term parking and instead use the Oyama Park parking lot. Thank you for your cooperation.
You can walk around the lakes regardless of Hotoria’s open hours! Just make sure of the weather conditions beforehand and do not try to hike if the weather conditions are dangerous.
4. Fukudaya’s kakigori (in summer) and confectioneries 福田屋
No visit to Oyama is complete without a sweet little indulgence—and Fukudaya is the perfect spot. Whether you stop by in the morning or afternoon, this beloved local shop is always a good idea.
Fukudaya offers a delightful selection of Japanese and Western sweets, ideal as gifts or to enjoy with a cup of tea. Take a break in the cozy café and sample local favorites like the gently sweet imo yokan (sweet potato jelly) and refreshing sake jelly made with sake from Tsuruoka’s Ōyama district. In the summer, their fluffy kakigori (shaved ice with syrup) is a crowd-pleaser.
Weekends bring out special treats like the Canelé de Bordeaux, and don’t miss the choux filled with cream only after you order—crispy, creamy, and made to impress.
Kakigori served between June to September (may vary) from 10am to 5pm (orders must be place before 4:30pm if customers want to eat inside). Sales stop until the shop runs out of syrup. Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Kamihonmachi 大山上本町 (bus timetable)
Oyama Park is one of the many famous cherry blossom spots in Tsuruoka city.
It features walking trails, rest pavilions, and can be explored in about an hour. With views over the Shonai Plain and distant peaks like Mt. Gassan and Mt. Chokai—especially majestic during snowmelt season—the park is a beloved local spot for nature and history lovers.
Oyama Park is also home to the ruins of Oura Castle, once the residence of the warlord Muto during the Sengoku period. In the late Edo period, over 800 cherry and peach trees were planted here in gratitude for the village’s escape from harsh punishment after the “Oyama Uprising.” This marked the beginning of the park’s reputation as a cherry blossom destination.
Each spring, peach blossoms, magnolias, weeping cherries, Somei Yoshino, and double-flowered cherry trees bloom in succession.
How to visit
Cherry blossoms usually bloom 3/4 days later than in Tsuruoka Park (see our cherry blossom spotting article here), normally early to mid-April
Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Kouenguchi 大山公園口 (bus timetable)
6. Oyama’s Dog Festival (Inu Matsuri) – June 5th 大山犬祭り
One of Shonai’s three major festivals, this event has a 300-year history rooted in the legend of the “Mekke Dog,” a legendary dog said to have defeated a shape-shifting creature (mujina) that once haunted the mountain behind Sugi-no-o Shrine. The festival features traditional processions, including a dog-shaped mikoshi (portable shrine), a parade with a kari-nyōbō (a young woman offered as a sacrifice to the creature), and vibrant karaguri floats with mechanical puppets.
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