Shōgin TACT Tsuruoka opened in 2018 as a hub for culture and the arts in Tsuruoka City. The main hall uses a vineyard-style seating arrangement, creating an immersive space with excellent acoustics and visibility. It is equipped to host a wide range of concerts, performing arts, and events.
This cultural hall, rebuilt as a base for local cultural and artistic activities, features a design centered around a fly tower, with a cluster of smaller roofs breaking up the building’s overall mass. These segmented roofs gradually lower toward the outer edges, with the structure becoming single-story along the roadside. This design aims to harmonize with the surrounding townscape, which includes historic buildings (the neighboring Chido Clan School) and residential houses.
How to visit
Address: 11-61 Babachō, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture
Access:
By Bus: About 10 minutes from JR Tsuruoka Station; get off at Tsuruoka Shiyakushomae, 1-minute walk
Bus timetable (many bus lines stop at this bus stop, bus this is the clearest English timetable)
Opening Hours: 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM *Until 10:00 PM on event days
Closed: Year-end/New Year holidays (December 29 – January 3)
Notes: Wi-Fi available in the entrance area
Dewa no Yuki’s Sake Brewery & Museum
NEW
In 1669, the Oyama domain became tenryo (shogunate-controlled land). Around that time, there were as many as 40 sake breweries operating in the area. Historical documents from the period remain, recording the names of the brewery owners and the amount of sake they produced (measured in the traditional koku unit).
Oyama was home to a unique guild of sake brewers known as the Ōyama Tōji. These master brewers not only traveled to work at breweries across the Tohoku region, but also attracted young apprentices from sake-producing families in Tohoku and Echigo (present-day Niigata), who came to train in Ōyama.
While it is common in many regions for farmers to work as seasonal brewers during the winter months, Oyama was different. Until around the early Showa period (1920’s, 1930’s), the sake industry here was supported mainly by craftsmen—carpenters, plasterers, and others—whose own work slowed during the winter season.
Oyama itself was like a town of artisans, with neighborhoods such as coppersmiths, woodworkers, carpenters, blacksmiths, and dyers. These craftsmen lived and worked in close-knit communities, constantly sharing knowledge, refining their techniques, and taking pride in their work. This diligent and cooperative spirit is said to have been the foundation of Oyama’s rich sake-brewing tradition.
Visit the Dewa No Yuki Museum and have a taste at the end of the experience of a selection of three sakes picked by the shop’s worker.
How to visit
Open from 8:45 to 16:30
200 yen/person. English explanation about the exhibition available on your phone by scanning the QR codes!
Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Shogin Mae 大山荘銀前 (bus timetable)
The factory itself needs a prior reservation (form) to be visited (for free), but the shop is still a good stop to make with its huge variety of tsukemono (Japanese pickled/marinated vegetables).
Honcho has been in business for over 100 years in Oyama, Tsuruoka. Since its founding, it has remained committed to using vegetables grown locally in Yamagata, along with sake lees sourced from the Shonai region. Guided by its company motto—“Making the most of Shonai’s natural bounty to enrich food culture for all”—Honcho has continued to produce pickles using the same traditional methods passed down through generations. Tsukemono are a very important part of Tsuruoka’s gastronomy, counting as one of the city’s many methods of “food preservation” (hozonshoku 保存食) that helped the people feed on nutritious food during the harsh winters.
By continuing to use local vegetables, it aims to support and promote regional agriculture. At the same time, it is also exploring new forms of pickles that go beyond conventional boundaries, a reflect of Tsuruoka’s UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy title.
How to visit
Location: 1-7-7 Ōyama, Tsuruoka City Phone: +81235-33-2023 Access: 20 minutes by bus from Tsuruoka Station toward Yunohama Get off at “Oyama Shonaiginkomae” and walk 10 minutes Hours: 8:30 AM – 4:30 PM (Reservation required) Closed: Open year-round (No holidays) Fee: Free of charge Official Website:http://www.k-honcho.co.jp/
Saké, Pickles, Flowers & Birds : An idea of a day-trip to Oyama (surburb of Tsuruoka)
NEW
One reason some travelers find Tsuruoka a bit confusing is that the city encompasses a wide area with many outlying neighborhoods (or “suburbs”) and former villages. As shown on the map above, Tsuruoka is divided into six administrative districts, each containing various suburban areas—some of which are still referred to as “villages” in English. Oyama falls within the “Central Tsuruoka” district, although its location isn’t exactly central, as you can see. While not technically in Oyama, several of Tsuruoka’s main tourist attractions are located nearby—such as Zenpoji Temple and, along the coast, the Kamo Aquarium—both just an 8-minute drive away.
Oyama can be reached by bus with the bus bound for Yunohama Onsen via Kamo Aquarium (bus timetable) OR the bus bound for Yunohama Onsen via Zenpoji Temple (bus timetable). They are not the same, don’t mistake them!
So, once you’re there, what’s to do in Oyama?
1. The Honcho Pickles factory 本長
While the factory itself needs a prior reservation (form) to be visited (for free), the shop is still a good stop to make with its huge variety of tsukemono (Japanese pickled/marinated vegetables).
Honcho has been in business for over 100 years in Oyama, Tsuruoka. Since its founding, it has remained committed to using vegetables grown locally in Yamagata, along with sake lees sourced from the Shonai region. Guided by its company motto—“Making the most of Shonai’s natural bounty to enrich food culture for all”—Honcho has continued to produce pickles using the same traditional methods passed down through generations. Tsukemono are a very important part of Tsuruoka’s gastronomy, counting as one of the city’s many methods of “food preservation” (hozonshoku 保存食) that helped the people feed on nutritious food during the harsh winters.
By continuing to use local vegetables, it aims to support and promote regional agriculture. At the same time, it is also exploring new forms of pickles that go beyond conventional boundaries, a reflect of Tsuruoka’s UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy title.
Our recommendation?
Minden eggplants (small, round local eggplants) pickled in karashi (Japanese mustard), a dish called “minden nasu no karashi-zuke” “民田茄子の辛子漬”. They are very spicy, but once you acquire the taste, those little eggplants make the perfect appetizers to accompany your meals. Appreciate them with some Chardonnay-type of white wine to counterbalance the mustard’s vivid spiciness with the wine’s soft tanginess, or pair them with some creamy, round-taste junmai sake (pure-rice non polished). Those powerful little eggplants will be something you’ll crave over and over again.
How to visit
Upon reservation at +81235-33-2023 (Japanese only). Open from 8:30 to 16:30
Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Shogin Mae 大山荘銀前 (bus timetable)
2. Watarai’s sake brewery and their sake museum: Dewa no Yuki Shiryokan 出羽ノ雪酒造資料館
In 1669, the Oyama domain became tenryo (shogunate-controlled land). Around that time, there were as many as 40 sake breweries operating in the area. Historical documents from the period remain, recording the names of the brewery owners and the amount of sake they produced (measured in the traditional koku unit).
Oyama was home to a unique guild of sake brewers known as the Ōyama Tōji. These master brewers not only traveled to work at breweries across the Tohoku region, but also attracted young apprentices from sake-producing families in Tohoku and Echigo (present-day Niigata), who came to train in Ōyama.
While it is common in many regions for farmers to work as seasonal brewers during the winter months, Oyama was different. Until around the early Showa period (1920’s, 1930’s), the sake industry here was supported mainly by craftsmen—carpenters, plasterers, and others—whose own work slowed during the winter season.
Oyama itself was like a town of artisans, with neighborhoods such as coppersmiths, woodworkers, carpenters, blacksmiths, and dyers. These craftsmen lived and worked in close-knit communities, constantly sharing knowledge, refining their techniques, and taking pride in their work. This diligent and cooperative spirit is said to have been the foundation of Oyama’s rich sake-brewing tradition.
Visit the Dewa No Yuki Museum and have a taste at the end of the experience of a selection of three sakes picked by the shop’s worker.
Our recommendation?
While the museum features QR codes that display English information on your cellphone (connection to internet required), we recommend you use the help of a local guide to help you navigate in the complex world of sake and grasp all the richness of agriculture in the Shonai region. Send a mail to our interpreter-guide association: Chat-Chat!
3. The Kamiike, Shimoike lakes and its nearby nature-preservation center: Hotoria ほとりあ
Takadate Mountain and its surrounding lakes Oyama Kami-ike & Shimo-ike’s Wetlands Takadate Mountain and its surrounding area, including Kami-ike (Upper Lake) and Shimo-ike (Lower Lake), are designated as bird and wildlife protection zones under the Ramsar Convention. The region, part of the Shonai Coastal Prefectural Nature Park, features a rare beech forest and a rich mix of cold- and warm-climate plants, making it a unique ecosystem.
A Haven for Wild Birds The Upper and Lower Ponds are vital wintering grounds for migratory waterfowl, including 20,000 to 30,000 mallards, as well as Eurasian Teals and Smews. Swans, such as the Whooper Swan, and geese like the Greater White-fronted Goose also frequent the area. Additionally, small birds like the Yellow-breasted Bunting and Common Redpoll pass through during migration. The best place to spot birds around the Shimoike Lake is the Oura Bird Lovers’ Hall おうら愛鳥館.
Diverse Flora and Fauna The ponds are home to rare dragonfly species like the Violet Dropwing and Giant Darner, as well as various butterfly species. The area boasts a wide variety of trees, including Horse Chestnut and Maple, along with plants native to the Sea of Japan, such as Marsh Wisteria and Yellow Columbine.
Lotus Flowers In July, lotus flowers bloom in the Upper Pond, reaching their peak in August. Local residents harvest the flowers during the Obon festival, offering them at the altar to honor ancestors.
Birds species present around the lakes (excerpt)
マガモ – Mallard/wild duck
コガモ – Eurasian Teal (or Common Teal)
ホシハジロ – Common Pochard
カワウ – Great Cormorant
ジョウビタキ – Daurian Redstart
ヒヨドリ – Brown-eared Bulbul
カルガモ – Eastern Spot-billed Duck
And many more!
How to visit
Hotoria’s Opening Hours 9:00 AM – 4:30 PM
Closed Every Tuesday / Year-end and New Year holidays (December 29 – January 3) ※ If Tuesday falls on a national holiday, the museum will be closed on the nearest weekday following that day (that is not a holiday). ※ Please refer to the “Event Newsletter” for details on closed days.
Admission Free
Parking
15 regular cars
2 spaces for visitors with disabilities ※ The Oyama Park parking lot is also available (40 spaces for regular cars / large vehicles accepted) ※ Please note: Roads around the facility are narrow, making two-way traffic difficult, and include tight turns. For this reason, large buses should avoid long-term parking and instead use the Oyama Park parking lot. Thank you for your cooperation.
You can walk around the lakes regardless of Hotoria’s open hours! Just make sure of the weather conditions beforehand and do not try to hike if the weather conditions are dangerous.
4. Fukudaya’s kakigori (in summer) and confectioneries 福田屋
No visit to Oyama is complete without a sweet little indulgence—and Fukudaya is the perfect spot. Whether you stop by in the morning or afternoon, this beloved local shop is always a good idea.
Fukudaya offers a delightful selection of Japanese and Western sweets, ideal as gifts or to enjoy with a cup of tea. Take a break in the cozy café and sample local favorites like the gently sweet imo yokan (sweet potato jelly) and refreshing sake jelly made with sake from Tsuruoka’s Ōyama district. In the summer, their fluffy kakigori (shaved ice with syrup) is a crowd-pleaser.
Weekends bring out special treats like the Canelé de Bordeaux, and don’t miss the choux filled with cream only after you order—crispy, creamy, and made to impress.
Kakigori served between June to September (may vary) from 10am to 5pm (orders must be place before 4:30pm if customers want to eat inside). Sales stop until the shop runs out of syrup. Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Kamihonmachi 大山上本町 (bus timetable)
Oyama Park is one of the many famous cherry blossom spots in Tsuruoka city.
It features walking trails, rest pavilions, and can be explored in about an hour. With views over the Shonai Plain and distant peaks like Mt. Gassan and Mt. Chokai—especially majestic during snowmelt season—the park is a beloved local spot for nature and history lovers.
Oyama Park is also home to the ruins of Oura Castle, once the residence of the warlord Muto during the Sengoku period. In the late Edo period, over 800 cherry and peach trees were planted here in gratitude for the village’s escape from harsh punishment after the “Oyama Uprising.” This marked the beginning of the park’s reputation as a cherry blossom destination.
Each spring, peach blossoms, magnolias, weeping cherries, Somei Yoshino, and double-flowered cherry trees bloom in succession.
How to visit
Cherry blossoms usually bloom 3/4 days later than in Tsuruoka Park (see our cherry blossom spotting article here), normally early to mid-April
Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Kouenguchi 大山公園口 (bus timetable)
6. Oyama’s Dog Festival (Inu Matsuri) – June 5th 大山犬祭り
One of Shonai’s three major festivals, this event has a 300-year history rooted in the legend of the “Mekke Dog,” a legendary dog said to have defeated a shape-shifting creature (mujina) that once haunted the mountain behind Sugi-no-o Shrine. The festival features traditional processions, including a dog-shaped mikoshi (portable shrine), a parade with a kari-nyōbō (a young woman offered as a sacrifice to the creature), and vibrant karaguri floats with mechanical puppets.
Tsuruoka is home to many beautiful cherry blossom spots, the most famous being Tsuruoka Park, selected as one of Japan’s Top 100 Cherry Blossom Viewing Sites (日本さくら名所100選) for its 700 sakura trees that bloom around the historic Shonai Shrine. But the beauty doesn’t stop there—many other lesser-known places around the city offer equally stunning sakura scenes. Let us introduce you to some of them!
1. Tsuruoka Park
This is the easiest cherry blossom spot to access from Tsuruoka Station. You can either walk to Shonai Shrine (about 20 minutes on foot) or take a short 5-minute bus ride and get off at the Chido Museum stop—one of the many scenic spots around the park that becomes especially magical during peak sakura season. All around the park, you’ll find food and game stalls that bring the festive spirit to life. It’s the perfect way to enjoy the cherry blossom season just like the locals—by eating, drinking, and having fun under the sakura trees. The park is illuminated at night for people to appreciate the beauty of sakura after sunset.
Blooming season: Early April to Mid April (full-bloom often happens around 5 days after eclosion)
Blooming season: Early April to Mid April (full-bloom often happens around 5 days after eclosion)
In 2025, full-bloom was observed on April 12th
3. Matsugaoka’s Reclamation Lands (also known as “Samurai Silk Farms”)
The Matsugaoka Reclamation Lands tell the story of the Shonai Clan’s ex-samurai, who reinvented themselves as silk farmers after the Boshin War. The preserved wooden buildings were once used to raise silkworms and produce silk, offering a rare glimpse into Japan’s Meiji-era (19th century) industrial heritage. During cherry blossom season, the site transforms into a stunning scene, with soft pink petals enhancing the nostalgic beauty of the historic architecture. In recent years, seasonal nighttime illuminations have added an extra touch of magic, making Matsugaoka an enchanting spot to experience sakura after dark.
Blooming season: Mid April (full-bloom often happens around 5 days after eclosion)
A little later than in Tsuruoka Park. In 2025, full-bloom was observed on April 14th
4. Oyama Park
Oyama Park is another majestic spot to enjoy cherry blossoms in Tsuruoka City. Nestled between the historic Zenpoji Temple and the popular Kamo Aquarium (both accessible by bus), the park is also surrounded by well-known local attractions such as the Watarai Sake Brewery—with its Dewa no Yuki Museum—and the Honcho tsukemono (pickled vegetables) factory. It’s the perfect destination for a full day of exploration, offering a peaceful walk through the Japanese countryside, surrounded by the sights, tastes, and traditions of the Shonai region.
Bus timetable (terminus: Zenpoji Temple) : bus stop name: Oyamakouenguchi
Blooming season: Mid April (full-bloom often happens around 5 days after eclosion)
A little later than in Tsuruoka Park. In 2025, full-bloom was observed on April 15th
5. Atsumi Onsen
Located in the southern part of Tsuruoka City, on the way to Niigata Prefecture, Atsumi Onsen is a historic hot spring town known for its charming atmosphere and renowned ryokan such as Bankokuya and Tachibanaya. According to legend, the hot spring was discovered by the famous monk Kobo Daishi, who struck the ground with his staff, causing hot water to gush forth and form the Atsumi River. Today, visitors can enjoy a leisurely stroll through the town, relax at public footbaths, stop by cozy cafés like Chitto Mosshe, or even soak in a ryokan’s hot spring for a rejuvenating daytime bath.
Bus timetable (terminus: Kamo Aquarium) : bus stop name: Ashiyu Anbeyumae
Blooming season: Mid April to Late April (full-bloom often happens around 5 days after eclosion)
1 week or more later than in Tsuruoka Park.
These are some of the major sakura spots in Tsuruoka, but there are still many hidden gems waiting to be discovered! We’ll soon be sharing more about the lesser-known cherry blossom locations scattered across the region—some of which are best explored by car. Stay tuned!
6. Akagawa River Banks
The Akagawa River banks offer another ideal setting for leisurely strolls beneath cherry blossoms. The blooming period closely aligns with that of Tsuruoka Park, typically reaching full bloom about a day later. On the two weekends during peak bloom, the nearby “Sakura House” hosts a charming sakura marché, where dozens of local businesses showcase and sell their handmade crafts and regional delicacies.
Bus timetable : bus stop name: Dewa Shonai Kokusaimura
Blooming season: Early April to Mid April (full-bloom often happens around 5 days after eclosion)In 2025, full-bloom was observed on April 12th
Tsuruoka’s Traditional Sweet: “Sasamaki”
A Beloved Confectionery Rooted in Tradition
Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture, recognized as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, is a hub of culinary excellence. Among its many traditional foods is Sasamaki (笹巻), a sweet with over 230 years of history. Sasamaki, made by wrapping glutinous rice in bamboo leaves and boiling it, has long been a festive dish for Tango no Sekku (端午の節句 Boys’ Festival) on May 5. While “chimaki (ちまき)” is commonly enjoyed nationwide, in Tsuruoka, the tradition is to celebrate with Sasamaki. Today, it is also enjoyed year-round as a beloved traditional sweet.
In the Shonai region, the method of making Sasamaki varies by area. In southern Shonai, where Tsuruoka is located, the predominant style involves using lye to produce yellow Sasamaki. In contrast, northern Shonai, including Sakata City, features white Sasamaki made without lye.
Glutinous Rice Turned Golden by Lye
The lush natural environment of Tsuruoka, where firewood was once a common fuel, made wood ash readily available. This ash, known as lye, is strongly alkaline with antibacterial and preservative properties. The lye water, derived by soaking the ash in water and skimming the surface liquid, enhances the preservation of Sasamaki, leading to the saying: “The quality of Sasamaki depends on the lye.” Around the Boys’ Festival season, lye water is even sold at local farmers’ markets. Tsuruoka’s traditional confectionery tochimochi (とちもち) also utilizes lye for removing bitterness from horse chestnuts, making Sasamaki and tochimochi iconic examples of Tsuruoka’s unique lye culture.
Wrap the glutinous rice in bamboo leaves. The photo shows the triangular “Sankaku-maki” style, resembling a triangular rice ball.
Preparing the Rice: Soak the glutinous rice in lye water overnight. Wrapping in Bamboo Leaves: Drain the rice and wrap it in bamboo leaves, securing it tightly with natural twine such as suge or igusa. Boiling: Place the wrapped Sasamaki in a pot and boil it in water. Cooling: After boiling, transfer the Sasamaki to cold water and rinse several times to cool.
While wrapping Sasamaki can be tricky at first, practice makes perfect!
The wrapping style varies by region and family, including the triangular “sankaku-maki,” the fist-like “kobushi-maki,” and the pointed “tsuno-maki.” For celebrations, large Sasamaki using dozens of leaves, known as “takenoko-maki,” are also made.
The wrapped Sasamaki, ready to be boiled in a pot.
The bamboo leaves used to wrap the glutinous rice have traditionally been considered best when harvested during the “Doyo” period. Doyo is a traditional term in the Japanese calendar referring to intercalary periods that occur four times a year—before each of the seasons: spring, summer, autumn, and winter. Therefore, during the height of summer, from late July to early August, they harvest enough bamboo leaves to last for the entire year.
While bamboo leaves were traditionally dried for preservation, modern methods include boiling them with baking soda to maintain a vivid green color and then freezing them for long-term storage. During the Boys’ Festival season, bamboo leaves are also sold at local markets in Tsuruoka.
Enjoying Sasamaki
A vibrant yellow color with a glossy, jiggly appearance and texture.
When unwrapped, Sasamaki reveals a glistening yellow, jelly-like texture. It’s typically enjoyed with kuromitsu (black syrup) and kinako (roasted soybean flour). In Tsuruoka, ao-kinako made from green soybeans is commonly used, enhancing the flavor with its bright green hue.
Participants learning how to wrap Sasamaki from the instructor during a hands-on workshop.
Sasamaki, once a festive food, is now a nostalgic local treat deeply loved by the community. To preserve its tradition, workshops teaching Sasamaki-making are actively held in Tsuruoka. Sasamaki can also be purchased at local supermarkets and specialty stores, making it a great souvenir for visitors. Be sure to give it a try!
Preserving Tradition for Future Generations
Sasamaki, with its long history and deep roots in regional culture, was recognized as a “100-Year Food” by the Agency for Cultural Affairs in March 2023. Furthermore, in March 2024, the Shonai Sasamaki Production Techniques were registered as a National Intangible Folk Cultural Property. These honors underscore Sasamaki’s value not just as a confectionery with a long history but as a symbol of culinary culture passed down through generations in the region.
Through Sasamaki, the wisdom of Tsuruoka and Shonai’s people, as well as the local environment and lifestyle, continues to be shared in modern times. As a cultural emblem, Sasamaki is expected to inspire pride in the community and remain a treasured tradition for future generations.
Experience Making the Traditional Sweet “Sasamaki” and the Local Dish “Imoni”! Agricultural & Culinary Culture Report Vol. 2
A six-day, five-night tour focusing on agriculture and culinary culture was held in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. The main activities included three days of Shonai persimmon harvesting, a day of sightseeing, and a culinary experience on the final day. On the last day, participants tried their hand at making Tsuruoka’s traditional sweet, “Sasamaki (笹巻),” and the local dish, “Imoni (芋煮) .”
The culinary experience took place at “Tsuruoka Food Culture Market FOODEVER,” located in front of JR Tsuruoka Station. The first part of the experience focused on making “Sasamaki,” a traditional confectionery with over 230 years of history.
Sasamaki is an essential delicacy for the Boys’ Festival (Tango no Sekku 端午の節句) and is known for its high preservation quality, yellowish hue, and chewy texture. In 2024, the technique for making Sasamaki in Shonai was designated a Registered Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan.
Participants were guided by Sasamaki expert Masuko Ito, who has over 40 years of experience. Her Sasamaki is also sold at the local farmers’ market, Sanchoku Asahi-Goo (産直あさひグー) .
Sasamaki is made by wrapping glutinous rice soaked in lye with bamboo leaves and boiling the package. For this experience, participants learned to wrap the bamboo leaves and fill them with rice. Both the bamboo leaves and the glutinous rice were locally sourced from Tsuruoka.
Gathering around the kitchen table, participants received a demonstration from Ms. Ito. First, bamboo leaves were layered to form a cone, filled with lye-soaked rice, and tied with a string called Igusa. The process was challenging for first-timers, requiring repeated attempts under Ms. Ito’s patient guidance.
“It’s tricky but so much fun!” exclaimed one participant with a beaming smile.
Each person made three to four Sasamaki.
Cooking the Local Dish “Imoni”
While the Sasamaki was being boiled by staff, participants moved on to cooking “Imoni,” a beloved local dish.
The lesson was led by the “Tsuruoka FŪDO (Food x Culture) Guides,” certified by the Tsuruoka Food Culture Creative City Promotion Council, which shares insights into the city’s food culture and history.
Imoni is a hearty Japanese soup centered around imo (taro root), a starchy and creamy-textured tuber. This traditional dish is a specialty of Yamagata Prefecture, especially popular in autumn during outdoor gatherings called “imoni-kai.” The soup combines taro with vegetables, meat, and seasonings, with distinct regional variations. In inland areas of Yamagata, imoni is made with beef and soy sauce-based seasoning, while the Shonai region, including Tsuruoka, features a version using pork and miso. The Shonai-style imoni often includes pork, taro, green onions, fried tofu, konnyaku, and shiitake mushrooms. This comforting dish highlights the local flavors and ingredients, making it a beloved part of Yamagata’s food culture. Experienced participants handled the cooking confidently and smoothly.
Between cooking steps, a mini-tour was conducted within FOODEVER, introducing participants to Tsuruoka’s food culture and local sake. The staff of the FŪDO Guide shared stories about Tsuruoka’s diverse geography, cultural heritage, UNESCO recognition, and notable landmarks, such as its four hot spring areas and three Japan Heritage sites. Participants listened intently, gaining a deeper appreciation for how food culture connects with the region’s identity.
A Tasting Experience with Local Rice: Tsuyahime and Yukiwakamaru
Once the Imoni was ready, it was time to taste. Participants enjoyed a luxurious comparison of two local rice brands, Tsuyahime (つや姫) and Yukiwakamaru (雪若丸), in the form of salted rice balls.
Side dishes included local heirloom vegetables such as Minden eggplant (Minden nasu 民田なす), pickled mustard, Atsumi turnips (Atsumi kabu 温海かぶ) grown through slash-and-burn farming, and shiso rolls (Shisomaki しそ巻き), providing a full sampling of Tsuruoka’s culinary culture.
The sake used in cooking the Imoni, “Kochu no Ten (壺中之天),” from Watarai Honten Brewery (渡會本店) in Tsuruoka’s Oyama district, was also served in small tasting portions. It is a junmai daiginjo sake with a fruity and elegant flavor. Using it for cooking feels truly luxurious!
Participants expressed their delight: “Both rice varieties are delicious.” “The taste is so comforting.” “I’d love to bring some home as souvenirs.”
The staff boiled and chilled the Sasamaki, which participants took home as souvenirs.
Unwrapping the bamboo leaves revealed a yellow, jiggly treat. It’s best enjoyed with kinako (roasted soybean flour) or black syrup.
Experience the Charm of Tsuruoka
The culinary experience provided a special opportunity to taste, understand, and connect deeply with the region’s history and way of life. Through this tour, participants not only engaged with agriculture and culinary culture but also enjoyed meaningful exchanges with local residents, gaining a firsthand appreciation of Tsuruoka’s charm.
Various tours and events are held in Tsuruoka City, including those led by “Tsuruoka FŪDO (Food x Culture) Guides,” to showcase its rich food culture and agricultural products. For more information, please check the website below.
Harvest Experience at a Persimmon Farm in Tsuruoka! Agricultural & Culinary Culture Report Vol. 1
Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture is a region rich in nature, surrounded by mountains on three sides and home to the expansive Shonai Plain. With a food culture passed down over centuries, Tsuruoka has been recognized as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. Recently, a six-day, five-night tour focusing on agriculture and culinary culture was held in this culturally rich city. Participants from areas such as Tokyo, Kanagawa, and Chiba enjoyed hands-on harvest experiences at local farms, immersing themselves in Tsuruoka’s unique charm.
Agricultural Experience at a Shonai Persimmon Orchard
The tour included an experience centered on “Shonai persimmons (Shonai gaki 庄内柿),” a specialty of Tsuruoka City. This variety, known as “Hiratanenashi (平核無),” is seedless and characterized by its flat, square shape. Though the flesh is firm, removing the astringency reveals a refreshing sweetness. The original Shonai persimmon tree still stands in Toriimachi, Tsuruoka City, designated as a natural monument.
Participants were divided among several farms for hands-on agricultural activities. At Okabe Farm in Haguro Town, Tsuruoka, Shonai persimmons and other varieties are cultivated. The expansive farm offers a refreshing environment, with participants noting, “Unlike the city, the fresh air and natural surroundings are invigorating!” They embraced the experience of farm work in a setting far removed from their daily lives. Okabe Farm employs a unique cultivation method, spreading the persimmon trees low and wide. During harvest, no lifts are used; ladders allow for easy access to the fruit. Many persimmons are within arm’s reach, making the work accessible.
The harvest involved about six hours of work each day. Unlike simple “fruit picking,” the harvested persimmons were for shipment, requiring serious effort. With strict criteria for selecting persimmons based on color and size, participants received guidance from the farmers and carefully picked suitable fruit. Initially unsure, participants became adept by the final day, skillfully selecting and placing persimmons into baskets. Since the appearance of the fruit is crucial for shipment, each persimmon was handled and packed with care.
Okabe Farm owner Mr. Okabe, who also chairs the Shonai Persimmon Promotion Council, emphasized the importance of meticulous year-round work in producing high-quality fruit. He is committed to improving techniques and ensuring thorough management of branches and fruit. Additionally, he actively supports initiatives like this tour, seeing their potential to address labor shortages and promote local agricultural products.
Many participants were home gardeners or those interested in farming. Feedback included comments such as, “Working at an actual farm was a rare and valuable experience,” “The weather and air were wonderful,” “Harvesting was incredibly fun,” and “I’m happy to contribute to the farm.” Some were repeat participants, drawn back by the joy of previous agricultural experiences. They relished the break from city life, savoring the satisfaction of harvesting amid nature.
During breaks, participants were treated to freshly picked persimmons and La France pears, marveling at their freshness and flavor. While learning about the characteristics and ways to enjoy different varieties, they eagerly tasted the fruits, sparking lively conversations.
The joy of eating fruit they harvested themselves, coupled with the happiness of sharing fresh produce, created a warm and welcoming atmosphere throughout the event. The opportunity to interact with local farmers offered a special experience unique to this tour.
What Tsuruoka’s Agricultural Experience Conveys
The agricultural tour in Tsuruoka is designed not only to showcase local specialties but also to let participants feel the region’s history and culture through hands-on farming activities. In addition to persimmon harvesting, this year’s tours included apple farming experiences. In the past, agricultural experiences featuring cherries in the summer and La France pears in the autumn have been held in Yamagata Prefecture.
For local farmers, these experiences provide not only extra hands but also the chance to cultivate interest in their fruits and build a loyal fan base. Such initiatives highlight the idea that agricultural products are more than just food—they symbolize the region’s nature, culture, and way of life. Many participants leave with a renewed appreciation for these connections.
Various tours and events are held in Tsuruoka City, including those led by “Tsuruoka FŪDO (Food x Culture) Guides,” to showcase its rich food culture and agricultural products. For more information, please check the website below.
Note: Tour schedules are irregular. This article is based on coverage conducted in autumn 2024.
Tsuruoka: An Architectural Hidden Gem Where Tradition and Innovation Meet
Introduction
Nestled in Japan’s snow country, Tsuruoka quietly weaves an architectural narrative that surprises and inspires. In this serene provincial city, some of the world’s most acclaimed architects, including Pritzker Prize laureates, have brought to life innovative projects. Here, amidst rice fields and historic temples, contemporary architecture enters a fascinating dialogue with nature and tradition.
Just an hour by air from Tokyo, Tsuruoka remains largely undiscovered by international visitors, holding remarkable architectural treasures waiting to be explored.
The Architectural Allure of Tsuruoka
A Hub of Pritzker Prize Laureates’ Works
Tsuruoka is home to an impressive concentration of works by Pritzker Prize-winning architects, often considered the “Nobel Prize of Architecture.” Three major projects from these celebrated architects define the city’s unique landscape:
“SHONAI HOTEL SUIDEN TERRASSE” and “KIDS DOME SORAI” by Shigeru Ban (2014 Pritzker Prize)
“Shōgin Tact Tsuruoka” by SANAA (Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa, 2010 Pritzker Prize)
These architects have embraced Tsuruoka’s natural and cultural landscape, using it as a canvas for designs that are both visionary and deeply rooted in context.
Where Tradition Meets Innovation
Tsuruoka presents a rare juxtaposition: the 1,300-year-old national treasure “Five-Story Pagoda of Mt. Haguro” stands alongside pioneering contemporary designs. This city has become a dynamic nexus where traditional building techniques harmonize with cutting-edge technology, giving rise to new forms of architectural expression.
Rooted in Local Culture and Nature
Tsuruoka’s rich natural environment, harsh climate, and unique spiritual heritage are interwoven into its architecture. The resulting structures are not only deeply connected to their locale but also resonate with a universal appeal, demonstrating how architecture can be both contextual and globally relevant.
Must-Visit Structures
Modern Architectural Marvels
SHONAI HOTEL SUIDEN TERRASSE
Designed by Shigeru Ban (2018)
This hotel floats serenely above expansive rice fields, rooted in the Japanese agricultural landscape. Ban’s innovative approach challenges perceptions of the relationship between architecture and landscape, offering guests a unique experience in tune with the changing seasons of rice cultivation.
What makes this project especially captivating is its structural design: rather than a single monolithic building, Ban distributed the 119 rooms across multiple structures using three distinct structural systems. This approach preserves the visual harmony of the rice fields and creates an architectural promenade that allows guests to experience the landscape from various perspectives.
Key Points:
Landscape Integration: A revolutionary approach that enhances and preserves agricultural views
Structural Poetry: Masterful use of mixed structural systems creating visual lightness
Experiential Design: An immersive spatial sequence that connects visitors with Japan’s rural landscape
Visitor’s Note: The scenery transforms dramatically with the seasons—from the vibrant greens of spring planting to the golden hues of harvest. Plan your visit to experience these seasonal shifts.
Located in an academic district filled with historic buildings, universities, and galleries, this multi-purpose cultural complex by Pritzker Prize-winning SANAA reinterprets traditional Japanese architectural wisdom for the modern era.
Conceived as a “hall for the community,” this building invites citizens to participate as audience members, participants, and performers. The large space is wrapped by a corridor inspired by traditional Japanese Saya-dō architecture, which flexibly redefines the boundaries between public and private spaces.
Spatial Composition: A modern interpretation of Japanese architecture with a grand space encircled by a corridor
Functional Design: Vineyard-style seating that fosters an intimate connection between audience and performers
Adaptability: Flexible spatial configuration with movable partitions for professional performances when needed
An educational facility featuring a wooden dome with a diameter of 35.6 meters, this project explores the potential of large-span wooden structures in snow-heavy regions. This unique space balances the flexibility required for early childhood education with advanced architectural innovation, gaining global recognition as a groundbreaking architectural experiment.
Key Points:
Structural Innovation: Achievement of a large-span wooden dome adapted to snowy conditions
Spatial Design: A cohesive open space tailored for early childhood education
Regional Responsiveness: Use of local materials and climate-adapted solutions
Five-Story Pagoda of Mt. Haguro (National Treasure)
Built in 937, rebuilt in the 14th century
Known as the oldest five-story pagoda in the Tohoku region, this national treasure stands within a deep forest, embodying the elegance and technical prowess of traditional Japanese woodworking.
Architectural Significance: One of the oldest wooden structures in the Tohoku region
Construction Technique: Traditional Japanese woodworking methods without the use of nails
Aesthetic Value: Harmonious integration with the surrounding natural environment
Constructed during the Meiji era, this Romanesque-style church uniquely adapted to the Japanese setting. Notable for its “window paintings” and a rare “Black Madonna” statue, it stands as a rare example of East-West architectural fusion.
Cultural Fusion: Romanesque style adapted for Japanese cultural context
Unique Features: Rare “window paintings” and “Black Madonna” statue
Historical Importance: Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan
Architectural Pilgrimage: Why Tsuruoka?
A Hub of World-Class Architecture: Experience multiple works by Pritzker Prize winners in one compact area.
Contextual Design Study: Observe how contemporary architects engage with historical and natural contexts.
Preservation Techniques: Study methods used to maintain centuries-old wooden structures.
A Blend of Urban and Rural Aesthetics: Explore architectural solutions bridging urban and rural sensibilities.
Seasonal Architecture: Experience how buildings transform with Japan’s distinct seasons.
This guide is continuously updated. Last revision: [2024/11/10]
Route to The Land Of DEWA: Easy Access to Tsuruoka by JR Train or Bus from Tokyo, Sendai, Yamagata, and Niigata
Explore Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture with convenient access from major JR stations in Tokyo, Sendai, Yamagata, and Niigata. Whether by train or bus, discover the simple ways to start your journey to this captivating part of Japan. *Information as of November 2024
From TOKYO Station by JR Japan Rail Pass
From Tokyo Station, take the Joetsu Shinkansen “Toki” to Niigata Station (approx. 120 minutes). Then transfer to the Uetsu Main Line limited express “Inaho” to Tsuruoka Station (approx. 110 minutes). Both the “Toki” and “Inaho” trains offer reserved and non-reserved seating.
From Yamagata Station, take either the Shonai Kotsu express bus or the Yamako express bus to the S-MALL Bus Terminal (approx. 115 minutes). The S-MALL Bus Terminal is just a 2-minute walk from JR Tsuruoka Station.
From Sendai Station, take the Shonai Kotsu, Miyagi Kotsu, or Ugo Kotsu express bus to the S-MALL Bus Terminal (approx. 150 minutes). The S-MALL Bus Terminal is just a 2-minute walk from JR Tsuruoka Station. The bus makes rest stops at highway stations.
Tsuruoka: things to see and do around the Dewa Sanzan sacred mountains
(Recommended itinerary) 11 days to see (and taste!) the best of the Tohoku region! 🚆A JR-pass compatible tour
Ready to venture outside Japan’s beaten tracks? Eager to discover the beauty and the spiritual essence of the Northeastern part of Japan, known as “Tohoku” in Japanese? Do you consider travel incomplete without indulging in delicious food? Look no further. We have the perfect 10-nights itinerary for you to explore the Tohoku region, experiencing each prefecture’s iconic dishes and drinks while visiting the most historic, fascinating, and beautiful landmarks! This tour is also JR-pass friendly (but feel free to use the means of transportation of your choice!).
Places visited: (Niigata prefecture) Niigata city, Sado island, (Yamagata prefecture) Tsuruoka and the Dewa Sanzan, Yamadera, Ginzan Onsen, (Miyagi Prefecture) Sendai, Onagawa, Kinkasan, (Iwate prefecture) Hiraizumi, and Morioka.
This trip idea can be completed all-year-round but we recommend to avoid the snowy season if you wish to walk the hiking parts entirely.
Physical activity level: Easy
Budget: 200$ a day on average
(D1) Niigata: the gateway to the Tohoku region
(From Tokyo station) By Shinkansen: Take the JR Joetsu Shinkansen bound for Niigata station (between 1 hour and 30 minutes and 2 hours)
→ Did you know? The shinkansen that leaves at 9:12 from Tokyo station (Toki 311) is the fastest to reach Niigata station! (89 minutes)
While it is true that technically, the Niigata region doesn’t belong to the Tohoku region (it is actually part of the Hokuriku region), its convenient location, right between Tokyo and Yamagata Prefecture, makes it the perfect gateway for those wishing to visit the Tohoku region from Tokyo. Additionally, Niigata’s position along the Sea of Japan, its heavy winter snowfalls, and its cultural similarities with northern Japan often lead to its association with Tohoku. Furthermore, travelers looking to visit the beautiful Sado Island must stop at Niigata’s port to take the ferry to this famous island.
Below are our recommended places to visit while in Niigata City:
The “Old-Town” (Furumachi)
Distance from Niigata station: 9 min. by bus (Bandai-bashi line or 40 min. on foot). Bus stop name: Furumachi.
The Old Town is full of charming cafés, restaurants, and, most importantly, historical sites such as the Saito Family Residence (Saito-ke bettei 斎藤家別邸). This traditional Japanese house once belonged to one of the most influential families in the region and is also a venue for “Geigi” (Niigata’s geisha and maiko) performances.
Niigata’s Furumachi at nightNiigata’s Furumachi at nightThe Saito Family ResidenceThe Saito Family ResidenceGeigi performance upon requestGeigi games upon request
Did you know?
Niigata’s Geigi (芸妓, “girls of arts”) first appeared 200 years ago, catering to the needs of wealthy merchants who sailed from Hokkaido to Kyoto along the Sea of Japan. These merchants traveled on boats called “Kitamaebune” 北前船 (a Japan Heritage site since 2017) to buy and sell goods from harbor to harbor. This new maritime trade route facilitated cultural, culinary, architectural, and artisanal exchanges in these harbors. Niigata’s Geigi are a manifestation of these cultural exchanges, as the tradition of geishas, a form of entertainment that originated in Kyoto, was brought to Niigata during this time.
The Imayo Tsukasa sake brewery and other sake tasting activities
Distance from Niigata station: 15 min. on foot.
The Imayo Tsukasa brewery, established in 1767, boasts nearly three centuries of expertise in sake brewing. Renowned for its exceptional sake, the brewery consistently earns awards for taste, packaging, and innovation. The brewery offers free tours (with English tours costing 400 yen per person), but reservations are required via their website. Some sake samples are available for free tasting, but we recommend trying the premium sake tasting (1000 yen per person) to experience a wider selection of Niigata’s diverse and unique sake.
For those short on time, Ponshukan, a sake-tasting space inside Niigata Station, offers a glimpse of Niigata’s sake. Here, you can sample around 90 varieties of local sake; 500 yen gets you five coins to use in the different sake dispensers.
Sake-flavored ice creamExhibition of Imayo Tsukasa’s creationsThe guide explains the difference in all the sakesFree sake and non-alcoholic beverages (amazake) tastingBottle that was awarded “best-packaged sake”Ponshukan, a sake-tasting area inside Niigata station
Did you know?
Niigata Prefecture is Japan’s number one sake producer in terms of the number of “sakagura” (酒蔵, “sake brewery”), boasting the largest number of sake breweries in the country. This is due to Niigata’s ideal environment for cultivating rice: abundant snowfall in the winter, warm and humid summers, and extensive fields with high-quality water. The perfect year-round temperature and rich soil nutrients result in plentiful crops and delicious rice, which is essential for producing top-quality sake.
What to eat in Niigata
Wappa-meshi, a bowl of steamed rice and fishNoppe-jiru, the local stew that consists of yams, vegetables, peas and mushroomsSasa-dango, red beans-filled mugwort mochi wrapped in sasa bamboo leavesTare-katsu don, Niigata’s “comfort food” that consists of deep-fried pork dipped in sweet soy sauce-based seasoning
Plenty of stay options around Niigata station! Use your favorite booking website to choose the one that fits your needs.
-Jetfoil (the fastest way to reach Sado Island, around 65 min.) : From Niigata port to Ryotsu port 7,050 yen/adult (one way) – 13,490 yen/adult (two-ways)
-Car ferry (the cheapest way to reach Sado Island, around 2 hours 30 min.) : From Niigata port to Ryotsu port starting from 2960 yen/adult (one way)
Sado Island, a little paradise on the sea just one hour away from Niigata by jetfoil boat, is beloved by hikers and enthusiasts of traditional Japanese arts. The island is famous for the Sado Taiko drums and offers excellent opportunities for wildlife photography. In 2024, Sado’s Gold Mines were listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites, highlighting the island’s cultural significance in Japan’s history. Sado Island is renowned for its seafood and its historical connection to maritime activities. Visitors can enjoy “taraibune” tub boat tours, diving sessions, and sea kayaking.
Here is a list of recommended activities and sights on Sado Island:
Taraibune tub boat tour on the sea at Rikiya Kanko Kisen
The tub-boats were devised around the beginning of the Meiji era. They were repeatedly improved from laundry tubs into the current design of the tub-boats.
The idea originated on the Ogi Coast, where the many hidden rocks made the tub-boats more stable and easier to maneuver than small boats.
Tub-boats were used to catch turban shells, abalone, and seaweed.
The tub-boats used for sightseeing are made slightly larger than those used for actual fishing.
With fares ranging from 500 yen for 2 hours to 2000 yen for 2 hours, the island proposes in the Tourism Information Center electrical bicycle-rental plans called “Eco-da-chari”. The best way in our opinion to discover the island’s little shrines and temples that are full of wonders. Did you know there was a “Rabbit Temple” (Chokokuji Temple), where one can find the giant statue of a Rabbit Bodhisattva and many baby rabbits wandering around? The monk-in-charge of the temple fondly takes care of them.
Take the local train (JR Limited Express Inaho) to Sakata (1 hour 49 minutes). Get off at Tsuruoka Station (or Atsumi Onsen if you’re staying there).
→ For the quickest ride, be sure to take the Limited Express Inaho, as other local trains can take twice as long!
Tsuruoka City (hi! that’s us!), once the castle town of the Shonai Clan, who governed the historic Dewa Province (Dewa no kuni 出羽の国, other phonetic version: Ideha no kuni いではの国) a now obsolete term that designated an area that used to cover Yamagata and Akita Prefectures), was and still is renowned as one of Japan’s top rice-producing regions. The Shonai Clan was famous for its military prowess, including their undefeated record during the Boshin War (1868) and the strict teachings based in Ogyu Sorai’s doctrine (deriving from Confucianism) of the Sakai family, their leaders. Besides its rich feudal past, Tsuruoka is a spiritual center for pilgrims and practitioners of ancient mountain-worshipping traditions like Shugendo, as well as esoteric Buddhist schools such as Tendai and Shingon. The sacred Dewa Sanzan, a pilgrimage route with over 1,400 years of history, includes three mountains: Mt. Haguro (414m), Mt. Gassan (1,984m), and Mt. Yudono (1,500m). In addition to its exciting hiking trails, and historical and spiritual significance, Tsuruoka is home to the world’s largest jellyfish collection at Kamo Aquarium, located near the Yunohama Onsen hot spring village, and is Japan’s first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy.
Here’s a plan to experience all of the above in a 2-day trip to Tsuruoka:
Arrive at Tsuruoka station (in Japanese: Tsuruoka ekimae 鶴岡駅前)
If you came with the Limited Express Inaho bound for Sakata from Niigata at 8:22, you’ll arrive at Tsuruoka station at 10:12
From there, take the bus bound for Haguro-Gassan at the bus stop n°1. If you arrived at Tsuruoka with the first train, you’ll be able to pick the 10:43 bus.
In front of the station and the bus stations, there is a building called “FOODEVER”. Inside, you will find the Tsuruoka Tourist Information Center, where English-speaking staff will answer your questions and help you sort out any problem you have from 9am to 5:30pm. There are also coin lockers, toilets, a restaurant, seats, Wi-Fi, and tourist brochures at your disposal (the building is open from 9am to 10pm).
This is Tsuruoka station viewed from FOODEVERFOODEVER entranceInside FOODEVERThe tourist information center (opens from 9 am to 5:30pm, everyday)
Get off the bus at Haguro Zuishinmon
Get off the bus at the bus stop called “Hagurozuishinmon”. If you took the 10:43 bus from Tsuruoka ekimae, you will arrive at Haguro Zuishinmon at 11:19. (reminder: Bus timetable)
Haguro Zuishinmon is the entrance gate to Mt. Haguro’s hiking path and its 2446 stones. You need to start here if you wish to see the Five-Storied Pagoda, the Suga Falls, Grandpa Cedar, Minamidani, and many little shrines and Buddhist remains. There is no toilet on the way so please use the toilets located inside the rest area near the bus stop. You can also have lunch at the soba restaurant “Okawa Shoten” 大川商店 (no reservation needed). If you place a reservation prior to your visit, you can have shojin-ryori for lunch at Saikan, the lodge/restaurant at the top of Mt. Haguro.
Now, time to start your hike (approx. 1 hour 30 minutes).
Please acknowledge that the duration of the hike depends on your hiking pace and the number of times you make pauses.
The Zuishinmon gateThe Tenchikon shrineThe Shinkyo bridgeThe Suga FallsGrandpa CedarThe Five-Storied Pagoda (a National Treasure)The 2446 stone stairs (part of it)The Ninosaka chaya TeahouseThe path to the Minamidani ruinsThe Haniyamahime shrineSaikan’s pilgrim lodge and restaurantThe end of the hiking trailThe Dewa Sanzan Shrine (also known as Sanjingosaiden)
Where to stay in Haguro
Stay at a shukubo lodge on Mt. Haguro
The original way to start the Dewa Sanzan pilgrimage/spiritual training is to stay at a Yamabushi shukubo lodge. Yamabushi are the practitioners of the Shugendo religion (a blend of Buddhist and Shinto practices, with many other beliefs intertwined together). In Mt. Haguro, most of the lodges belong to the Shinto religion, which is different from the shukubo in Koya-san for example (Buddhist). Hence, food at Haguro’s shukubo lodges is NOT vegetarian (Buddhist lodges often offer vegan dishes). They can be made vegetarian upon requests most of the time.
The Yamabushi families that run the shukubo can offer morning prayers, Haguro guided tours, rides to Mt. Gassan (paying) and other special services.
Mt. Haguro belongs to the National Park of Bandai-Asahi, along with the two other mountains of the Dewa Sanzan (Mt. Gassan & Mt. Yudono). The Bandai-Asahi National Park includes many natural sites over the prefectures of Yamagata, Niigata and Fukushima. This national park hosts a great variety of endemic animal and vegetal species. In Mt. Haguro, lucky visitors can spot the Japanese flying squirrel (musasabi in Japanese) or the moriaogaeru モリアオガエル frog who likes to lay eggs above Mt. Haguro’s Kagamiike pond in July. Website for the Bandai-Asahi National Park
(D4) Kamo Aquarium, Zenpoji Temple and Yunohama Onsen
Wake up from your shukubo lodge, have the morning prayer, breakfast, and head back to Tsuruoka station (reminder: the bus stop is called “Tsuruoka ekimae”, bus timetable). If you are staying in a lodge at the foot of Mt. Haguro (a place called “shukubo-gai”, the “shukubo town”), there are many bus stops. The most recognizable is located near the Koganedo/Shozen’in temple (bus stop name: Koganedomae). Take the 9:21 bus. Arrive at Tsuruoka station at 9:55.
Go to Kamo Aquarium
Take the bus that goes to Yunohama Onsen via Kamo Aquarium at 10:38 from Tsuruoka ekimae’s bus stop n°2. (bus timetable) Arrive at the aquarium at 11:19.
The entrance costs 1500 yen per adult.
You can have lunch at Okimizuki, the restaurant inside the aquarium. Orders need to be placed through the ticket dispenser machine at the entrance of the restaurant. You have a plethora of choice: seafood menu, fish tempura, or even jellyfish ramen! Will you feel adventurous that day to try the jellyfish dishes? Estimated visit time at the aquarium : 1 hour (more if you wish to take pictures or see the performances)
Okimizuki restaurant (inside the Kamo Aquarium)There’s more than jellyfish at Kamo Aquarium! Local fish and mammals species are also exhibited!Discover the many shapes and colors of the jellies!Jellyfish ice cream
Did you know?
Kamo Aquarium is renowned for having the largest collection of jellyfish in the world, with over 60 successfully reproduced species. It features the world’s only “jellyfish-only fish tank,” a five-meter-diameter tank filled with Aurelia Aurita (moon jellies). The aquarium shares its expertise globally through partnerships with aquariums and universities, including Paris Aquarium, Monterey Bay Aquarium, and La Rochelle Aquarium. Before its transformation into a jellyfish-specialized aquarium, Kamo Aquarium faced bankruptcy as a generalist aquarium. The current director, Mr. Okuizumi Kazuya, who was then a keeper, proposed the idea of specializing in jellyfish. Despite their simple anatomy, jellyfish are extremely difficult to keep in captivity due to their need for stable environmental conditions. Mr. Okuizumi mastered the complexities of jellyfish care, significantly expanding the aquarium’s jellyfish collection with the help of his skilled team of keepers and researchers. Mr. Okuizumi also assisted Dr. Osamu Shimomura, the 2008 Nobel Prize winner in Chemistry, by providing specimens of Aequorea victoria. This jellyfish produces a bioluminescent protein called GFP, which was central to Dr. Shimomura’s Nobel-winning research. Since then, Kamo Aquarium has continued to thrive and innovate.
Go to Yunohama Onsen (bus transfer & ryokan check-in)
You can aim for the 13:45 bus to Yunohama Onsen from the aquarium’s bus stop (reminder: the bus stop name is Kamo Suizokukan, bus timetable).
Get off at Yunohama Onsen at 13:55. Check-in at the ryokan you have chosen for the night.
Then, take the bus from Yunohama Onsen’s bus stop to Tsuruoka city through Zenpoji temple (bus timetable) at 14:45.
Visit Zenpoji Temple
Get off the bus at Zenpoji at 14:53 and explore the temple’s precincts for about 45 minutes. To visit the inside of the temple, there is a 500 yen entrance fee. Don’t miss the last prayer of the day at 16:00, where the monks perform the Heart Sutra Prayer for around 20-30 minutes. You can ask to be blessed during the prayer by paying a blessing fee (starting from 3000 yen) up to 10 minutes before the prayer begins. Otherwise, you can attend the prayer with just the 500 yen entrance fee.
The bus back to Yunohama Onsen leaves Zenpoji temple at 17:20. Until then, feel free to visit Kaibami-ike pond with its human-faced fish and explore the many buildings of the temple. Go back to Yunohama Onsen to have a relaxing soak and some well-deserved sleep.
The Heart Sutra Prayer performed following the “Tendoku way”Zenpoji’s monksAround the Kaibami-ike pondKaibami-ike pond’s human-faced koi carpsZenpoji Temple’s Five-Storied Pagoda
Did you know?
Zenpoji Temple is one of the Three Main Soto Buddhist Temples in Japan, with a history spanning over a millennium. The temple’s main deity is the Dragon God, revered for protecting all things related to water, including fishermen, farmers, and sailors, and for its powers to heal diseases and pain. Zenpoji is so respected throughout the Tohoku region that fishermen from other prefectures proudly display Zenpoji’s flag on their boats, seeking protection and blessings. Zenpoji gained significant attention in the 90s due to its “human-faced carps” (人面魚 jinmengyo in Japanese) after a Japanese TV program featured these uniquely human-like fish. The jinmengyo are believed to be manifestations of the Dragon God worshipped in the temple’s waters. Visitors often make donations or pray at the shrine near Kaibami-ike pond at the temple’s base, hoping for cures for their illnesses. During the golden age of the Kitamaebune maritime road (see Niigata’s paragraph for more details) in the 18-19th century, Zenpoji became a prominent site of devotion for merchants seeking protection from sea storms and shipwrecks. This increased popularity and the donations it brought allowed the temple to invest in the creation of beautiful structures, such as the Five-Storied Pagoda and the 500 Rakan Hall. The temple’s monks perform the prayer 6 times a day. They also offer zazen sessions, shojin-ryori lunches or Buddhist stays at their lodge on the second floor.
We personally recommend trying “Kameya”, a three-centuries old ryokan that has welcomed two Imperial Couples as its guests in its history, proof of the high-quality of its services and its comfort.
Dewa Sanzan’s Shojin-Ryori spiritual menuTsuruoka’s hinagashi cakes (in March/April)Moso bamboo soup (in Spring)Tochimochi (horse-chestnut mochi)Grapes sweets!Japanese/French (or Italian) fusion food paired with sake!Farmer cuisine
(D5) Sakata city, its maiko & oiran culture and its delicious pork
Sakata City, another key hub port of the Kitamaebune trade route until the 19th century, was home to Japan’s wealthiest family, the Honma family, who amassed their fortune through vast rice fields (and harvests). In Sakata, you can immerse yourself in the history of Kitamaebune merchants by exploring the old town, where the Somaro teahouse is located. Somaro’s maiko still perform in the local dialect, offering unique dances and chants for lunch or special occasions. The experienced eye can appreciate the differences from Kyoto geisha and enjoy the distinctive performances of Sakata’s maiko.
Nearby, you can visit the Sanno Kurabu, a former restaurant with a 120-year history. This site showcases the history of Sakata’s oiran (highest-ranked courtesans) through comical and erotic drawings displayed in a small tearoom, as well as doll displays depicting the various workers of a pleasure house.
Surrounded by the Shonai Plain and bordered by the Sea of Japan, Sakata offers exquisite sake and seafood. However, we recommend trying one of Japan’s finest pork meats: Shonai Pork, at Hirata Bokujo’s restaurant. This culinary delight is not to be missed.
Go to Sakata city, have tonkatsu for lunch
For that, take the bus bound for Tsuruoka station from Yunohama Onsen via Kamo Aquarium, preferrably at 9:00. Arrive at Tsuruoka station (Tsuruoka ekimae) at 9:46 (bus timetable). Take the train bound for Sakata station (Inaho 1) at 10:12. Get off the train at 10:32. Take the city bus B to Mizuho Icchôme (1chome), have tonkatsu for lunch at Tonya (Hirata Bokujo’s restaurant). Once finished, take the same bus to Sankyo Soko’s rice warehouses. Visit the warehouse and the exhibitions inside.
Sankyo Soko’s warehousesDifferent icecream flavors insideSake lovers might find their happiness there
Somaro’s maiko dance and Sanno Kurabu’s history of the Sakata oiran
Once finished, walk to Sanno Kurabu, enjoy the different exhibitions and try to spots every hint at the oiran culture in Sakata city. If you have a little more free time, visit the Honma Museum and its Japanese garden (one of Japan’s Most Scenic Places 国指定名勝). Stay nearby for the night.
The Hiyoriyama ParkSomaro’s outsideThe entrance torii gate to Hiyoriyama Park
Where to stay in Sakata?
There are many places to stay in Sakata, but our recommendation goes to Wakaba Ryokan, a cozy, traditional ryokan near Somaro, Sanno Kurabu and the Hiyoriyama Park that serves traditional Japanese food and has cozy futon bedrooms.
Many people confuse geisha 芸者 (literally : “person of arts”) and oiran 花魁, since they have relative similar appearances (white makeup, luxurious kimono and hair decorations to name a few). However, those two roles are completely different. Geisha are trained entertainers, who enter a teahouse and train for many years to perfect their instrument-playing, singing, and dancing. Customers buy their services to animate a business meeting or spend a luxurious moment filled in the company of refined ladies. Back in the days, geishas used to be a “transition” for customers who were waiting to see the courtesans, dancing and singing meanwhile. Oiran were considered elite courtesans within the pleasure quarters (yūkaku), such as the Yoshiwara district in Edo (now Tokyo). They were known for their beauty, elaborate hairstyles, and richly decorated kimonos. Oiran were distinguished by their elaborate and ornate kimonos, tall wooden clogs (koma-geta), and complex, multi-layered hairstyles adorned with numerous hairpins. Their appearance was much more flamboyant compared to geisha. Oiran culture declined with the end of the Edo period and the eventual outlawing of licensed prostitution, while geisha culture has continued to the present day, though in a modernized form.
What to eat in Sakata city?
Sakata ramen : a rich seafood-broth and thick, firm noodlesSakata’s seafood and more especially: Sakata’s kaisendon (raw seafood-topped rice bowls)Sakata’s version of French Cuisine
Did you know?
Sakata’s ramen were voted “Japan’s N°1 ramen” in 2023 at the “Japanese local ramen contest” that was held in Shinjuku/Okubo Park.
You’re going to have a busy morning this day!
1. Take the the Inaho 6 bound for Niigata at 9:11
2. Get off at Amarume station at 9:19
3. Take the Rikusai Line bound for Shinjo at 9:25
4. Get off the train at Shinjo Station at 10:54
5. Take the Yamagata line bound for Yamagata at 11:35
6. Get off the train at Oishida at 11:54. Have a quick lunch in front of the station
7. Take the JR bus to Ginzan Onsen at 12:35
8. Arrive at 13:11
Don’t miss Yamagata City, a key destination in the Tohoku region. Not only is it a transportation hub connecting you to stunning spots like Yamadera and Ginzan Onsen, but it’s also a “culinary hub,” offering the finest dishes from across the prefecture. Enjoy the famous dadachamame from Tsuruoka (known as the “king of edamame”), savor the rich flavors of Yonezawa beef (one of Japan’s top three wagyu varieties), and taste the renowned Shonai pork. Yamagata is also famous for its ramen and is Japan’s top producer of cherries.
During your one-night, two-day stay in Yamagata, you’ll have plenty of time to fully appreciate the delights this prefecture has to offer!
Go to Ginzan Onsen
Nobody needs to introduce this stunning onsen village anymore. Ginzan Onsen is renowned for its beautifully preserved traditional ryokan (Japanese inns) with wooden facades lining the Ginzan River. Many of these buildings date back to the Taisho era (1912-1926) and early Showa era (1926-1989), creating a nostalgic and romantic ambiance, especially when illuminated at night. Explore Ginzan Onsen, visit its historic silver mine and picturesque waterfall, and go down to Yamagata city to stay for the night.
Where to stay near Ginzan Onsen?
It is actually very hard to stay at Ginzan Onsen. Most establishments are full many months in advance, and most rooms’ price is on the upper side of the scale. We recommend you to stay near Yamagata station if you couldn’t make a booking for a ryokan inside Ginzan Onsen.
(D7) Yamagata city, Yamadera’s Buddhist grounds and off to Sendai!
Go to Yamadera
To go to Yamadera from Yamagata Station, take the Sendai Line bound for Sendai, and get off the train at Yamadera station (approx. 20 min.). Have lunch in front of the station. You have plenty of choice: ramen, soba, udon.. Choose the noodles dish you prefer!
Visit Yamadera. You have the possibility to book for a guide/interpreter to accompany you on-site (their website: Yamaderan’s Association).
What to eat in Yamagata city
Dadachamame (Tsuruoka’s edamame soybeans)Sasa-maki (steamed bamboo-wrapped mochi)Imoni (yam stew), with fried tofu, beef (or pork), mushrooms, leek…Yonezawa-gyu, one of Japan’s 3 best wagyuFor more ideas of things to do in Yamagata city
Go to Sendai from Yamagata station with the JR Sendai Line (1h20min.). Visit the Ozaki Hachiman Shrine (National Treasure) by taking the train to Ayashi and getting off the train at Tohoku Fukushi Daizen. From there, you can reach the giant Bodhisattva statue with the bus that stops at Kunimigaoka Icchome. Go back to Sendai station to stay at the hotel of your choice
What to eat (and drink) in Sendai?
Sendai’s kamaboko (grilled fish cake)Sendai’s Beef TongueGreen gyozaZunda-mochi (zunda is a sweet edamame-paste that is often used in Sendai’s pastries)Nikka Whisky! Nikka’s whisky was voted the “best blended malt whisky in the world” by the WWA in 2023
1. Take the Express Senseki Tohoku line to Ishinomaki at 8:20 (1 hour)
2. Make a transfer at Ishinomaki station for the Ishinomaki Line bound for Onagawa at 9:33
3. Get off the train at 9:59 at Onagawa Station
Kinkasan’s Island is designated as a Natural Monument of Japan, recognized for its rich biodiversity and its role as a sanctuary for various wildlife species. The island is home to a thriving population of deer, along with monkeys and numerous bird species, including eagles and other raptors, making it a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts and birdwatchers.
In addition to its vibrant wildlife, Kinkasan boasts a well-maintained pilgrimage route that guides visitors through the island’s lush forests, past ancient shrines and temples.
The island’s atmosphere is often compared to Nara, with its sacred deer and historic sites, but with the added charm of being set in the middle of the ocean. To go there, you will need to take the ferry from Onagawa port, a harbor city that still today hosts the terrible vestiges of the 2011’s Tohoku earthquake and tsunami.
Visit Onagawa’s harbor and its monuments dedicated to the 2011 Tohoku Earthquake
The monument on the picture was the former Onagawa police station, a two-story concrete building that, as you can still see today, was completely swept away by the waves during the 2011 tsunami. Its location, inside what resembles a “pit”, shows how much effort was made by the authorities to rebuild the city on higher grounds as to not relive the same tragedy, should a similar tragedy happen in the future. This poignant site serves as a reminder of the resilience of the Onagawa community and the lessons learned from the devastating event.
Have a quick morning treat at Onagawa’s fish market
When someone says “harbor city,” seafood naturally comes to mind! Not far from the ferry boarding point, there is a bustling fish market and souvenir shop, as well as numerous nearby restaurants where you can savor the freshest fish, seashells, sea urchins, and the local specialty, “sea squirts.” Even for those who aren’t big fans of seafood, there are plenty of other dining options, including pizza, yakiniku, Chinese food, and Italian restaurants.
Take the ferry to Kinkasan
It costs 1750 yen for a one-way ferry ticket to Kinkasan Island. The boat is operated by Shio Planning (Japanese website). The time schedule varies according to the season, but most of the time you can expect the boat to leave the port at around 10:30/11:00 am (please verify beforehand)
Visit Kinkasan
This is the “little Nara in the North”! Look for the deers, the monkeys, the Japanese serow, or the other native animals that live on the island. There is a lodge/restaurant on the island, where you will have your lunch and spend the night. Take your time to explore this fascinating pilgrimage site on the sea.
(D9) Heading to Iwate’s World Heritage : Hiraizumi
1. Take the ferry to Ishinomaki at 12:30 (verify the timetable as time might change frequently. Be careful! It’s not the same ferry that you came with)
2. Take the 13:54 train from Ishinomaki station to Kogota station (Ishinomaki line)
3. Make a transfer from Kogota station to Hiraizmu (Tohoku Main Line, train bound for Morioka) at 14:45
4. Arrive at Hiraizumi at 15:51
Hiraizumi is a cultural gem in Japan, boasting several UNESCO World Heritage Sites linked to Buddhism. Among these, Chuson-ji Temple and Motsu-ji Temple stand out for their exquisite gardens, ancient architecture, and invaluable historical artifacts. Chuson-ji, founded in the early 12th century, is particularly famous for its Konjikido Hall, a golden pavilion lavishly adorned with gold leaf, making it a stunning example of Heian-period Buddhist art. Motsu-ji, known for its serene Pure Land gardens, offers a glimpse into the spiritual landscape design of the era.
Explore the area on electric bicycles to travel more freely. For lunch, you’ll stop at a local “wanko soba” restaurant. This unique dining experience is a specialty of Iwate Prefecture, where small bowls of soba (buckwheat noodles) are served one after another in rapid succession. The challenge—and the fun—lies in signaling when you’ve had enough by covering your bowl, as servers continuously refill it until you do.
To cap off the day, you’ll enjoy a refreshing Japanese beer. Interestingly, Iwate Prefecture is one of the main producers of hops in Japan, contributing to the country’s excellent beer-making tradition.
Check-in to your lodging facility and visit (if time allows it) Motsuji temple
Motsu-ji Temple in Hiraizumi is renowned for its serene Pure Land Garden, designed to reflect the Buddhist paradise with its central pond, carefully arranged rocks, and seasonal beauty. Although many original structures were lost, the stone foundations and scattered stupas offer a glimpse into the temple’s historical grandeur. The temple also houses Ennin Hall, dedicated to the influential monk Ennin, and features a small museum displaying artifacts that deepen understanding of its cultural significance.
Where to stay in Hiraizumi?
The cheapest option would be to stay around Ichinoseki station (8 min. away from Hiraizumi station by train). But the most convenient choice would go for a ryokan or minpaku nearby Hiraizumi station. Our recommendation goes to Maizuru’s ryokan, an affordable and comfortable option for a 2 nights stay in Hiraizumi.
You’ll stay at the same place than the day before. So don’t worry about the next train, bus or check-outs, you can take your time to visit all the temples and main spots of Hiraizumi. We recommend you rent a bicycle next to Hiraizumi’s station (see more) to move more efficiently and effortlessly.
Wanko-soba (many little bowls of soba noodles)Mochi lunch (Ichinoseki & Hiraizumi are THE place to be for mochi!)Maesawa-gyu, one of Japan’s best waguy beefs
(D11) End your trip on a delicious note: Morioka and its jajamen
1. Take the Tohoku Main Line at 9:03 to Morioka
2. Arrive at Morioka station at 10:25
On the final day of our Tohoku trip, we’ll ease the bittersweet feeling of departure with a taste of Morioka’s famous “Jajamen” after visiting the striking Morioka Hachimangu Shrine, a vibrant red shrine dating back to the 17th century. Morioka Jajamen is a comforting dish featuring thick, handmade wheat noodles that are satisfyingly chewy. It’s traditionally topped with a flavorful mix of minced meat, usually a blend of pork and beef, along with finely chopped green onions, cucumber, and other fresh vegetables, creating a delightful balance of textures and flavors. Before we head home, we’ll explore local souvenir shops where you can pick up a “Chagchag Umako” doll—an intricately decorated horse figure that makes for a unique memento of Morioka.
Visit Morioka’s shrines on foot from the station
Start your discovery of Morioka’s shrines with the Sakurayama-jinja inside the park that contains the former Morioka castle’s vestiges. Once done, head for the Morioka Hachiman Shrine but make a stop at the Iwate Bank’s Red Bricks Building, symbol of the Meiji era (early 20th century) architecture. After this building, there are some restaurants serving “Jajamen” along the streets, you can choose to have lunch now or after having seen the Morioka Hachiman shrine.
You can choose to go back to Tokyo from here, or continue your trip further in the North.
You can take the Tohoku Shinkansen back to Tokyo until 20:50 (takes 2 hours 10 min.)
How did you like it?
Thank you for reading our recommended trip to the Tohoku region. Please remind that this is just a recommended itinerary and not a complete travel guide. All the timetables of the several buildings and services noted in this article are subject to change through time and/or according to emergencies or special occasions. Feel free to change the plan, extend some stays or shorten/skip others. Please verify the itinerary, time tables, buildings’ opening hours, hotels’ availabilities, and such by yourself or subscribe to one of our arranged packages (book with us).
Discover Mount Haguro’s surroundings like very few have seen before. Discover landscapes that cannot be seen outside winter’s season and without a guide, watch Mt. Haguro’s wildlife in action, and learn about the local mountain vegetables. Meet with our passionate guides recognized by the Ministry of Environment at Gassan Visitor Center, put on the snowshoes available for rental. An interpreter (English/French) can accompany you. The price for 1 person starts from 2000 yen/person (more if interpretation is necessary). On reservation only.
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