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Shonai rice

The full-scale cultivation of rice in the Shonai region began in the 8th century after the establishment of the Dewa Province. During the Edo period (1603-1868), the lord of the Shonai domain, Tadamasa Sakai, encouraged rice cultivation, leading to increased production. Shonai became renowned as a major rice-producing region throughout the country. In 1649, a trade treaty with Osaka and Kanazawa was established in Sakata, and Sakata in Dewa became a central hub for rice trade. When Edo (current Tokyo) faced a severe famine, the shogunate established the western sea route (Kitamae ships) and transported a large amount of rice from the Shonai Plains to the capital.

Moreover, the Shonai region has supported many private farmers since the Meiji era (19th century). One of them, Kameji Abe from Shonai Town, bred the “Kamenoo” variety. From the late Meiji era to the Taisho period (1912-1926), it was cultivated not only in Japan but also in the Korean Peninsula and Taiwan, earning a place among Japan’s top three excellent rice varieties. The lineage of popular varieties like “Koshihikari,” “Sasanishiki,” and “Haenuki” can be traced back to the “Kamenoo” cultivar.

​In recent years, the pursuit of delicious rice cultivation has led to the creation of various rice varieties, such as:

  • Tsuyahime (Yamagata 97): As the name suggests (“Shiny Princess”), this rice is characterized by its remarkable whiteness and luster. It not only has a glossy finish when cooked but also boasts a well-balanced sweetness, umami, and stickiness that lingers in the mouth after eating. It is popular not only for its natural flavor but also for remaining delicious even when cooled.
  • Haenuki (Yamagata 45): Haenuki has firm rice grains with good stickiness and a satisfying chewiness. The more you chew, the more its umami and sweetness spread in your mouth. Its consistent quality, which remains delicious even when cooled, has made it popular in commercial use as well.
  • Yukiwakamaru (Yamagata 112): A relatively new brand of rice in Yamagata Prefecture following “Haenuki” and “Tsuyahime,” it took over ten years to develop this variety. Starting from the 2018 harvest, Yukiwakamaru is an exceptionally new type of rice. The cooked rice has a striking whiteness, excellent gloss, and large, well-defined grains.

Hinagashi sweets

Hinagashi (sweets to offer at the Dolls’ Festival) are typically made to reflect the specialties of the region. They include ingredients thought to promote good health, represent success, and appeal to children. Depending on the shops, the shapes of sweets will vary, featuring ingredients such as bamboo shoots, peaches, persimmon, or sea bream. Tsuruoka’s hinagashi has been influenced by Kyoto’s elegant and refined culture and use of “shinko zaiku” (figurines made of sugar and rice-flour dough) which was common during the Edo period in Edo. Tsuruoka’s unique style of hinagashi displays gratitude for good fortune and wishing for the growth and happiness of girls. It has become an indispensable part of the hinamatsuri of Tsuruoka. Tsuruoka’s hinamatsuri incorporates the culture of Kyoto and Edo, and Tsuruoka’s confectionery craftsmen have worked hard to develop their own hinagashi, passing down their practices. Today, hinagashi is an indispensable part of Tsuruoka’s hinamatsuri.

The busiest time for producing hinagashi is from mid-February until early-April. In Tsuruoka city and its surrounding region, hinamatsuri is celebrated on March 3 or April 3, depending on each family’s wishes.

(from https://www.tsuruokagastronomy.com/ )

Moso bamboo

“Indigenous crops” refer to vegetables, fruit trees, grains, and other crops that have been cultivated for many centuries in a particular region and have been embraced by the local people to keep its genetic uniqueness intact. Indigenous crops have long supported our daily lives and played a significant role in preserving the unique cultural heritage of the region. In Shonai and Tsuruoka, as many as 60 varieties of indigenous crops have been identified, serving as biological resources with genetic diversity. These crops are not only valuable for their agricultural heritage but also for the transmission of cultivation techniques and culinary traditions. They are considered “living cultural heritage” to be passed down to the next generation, and various projects are underway to ensure their continuation.

One such indigenous crop is the “Moso Bamboo Shoot.” These high-quality bamboo shoots can be eaten without the need for debittering. They have a mild flavor and a soft, tender texture. While there are different theories about their origin, some suggest that they were brought back by ascetics from Kyoto on northern-bound ships and planted in temples and shrines. In Shonai, they are commonly enjoyed as “Moso-jiru Soup,” cooked with thick-fried tofu, shiitake mushrooms, miso, and sake lees. This dish has become a beloved springtime tradition in the region.

The Moso bamboo has a crunchy texture with a spicy aftertaste.

Moso-jiru bamboo soup

Moso-jiru is the quintessential springtime dish in Tsuruoka. It’s a hearty soup that stars the Moso bamboo shoot as its main ingredient, gently simmered in a sweet miso-based broth alongside shiitake mushrooms and deep-fried tofu (atsuage). The Yutagawa Onsen area, in particular, is renowned for crafting some of the finest moso-jiru soups, thanks to the abundance of bamboo shoots found in the forests surrounding the village.

Edible Chrysanthemums “Mottenohoka”

Edible chrysanthemum (mottegiku もって菊) is a staple summer/autumn dish in Tsuruoka, eaten cold marinated in a sweet-sour sauce. The petals are tubular, and the flowers are semi-double or double, giving them a medium size. There are two varieties of mottegiku: purple and yellow.One of the distinctive features of the Akigiku is its crisp and crunchy texture due to the tubular shape of the petals. It is also known for its subtle fragrance, sweetness, and a hint of bitterness. The name of the dish “mottenohoka” (“unbelievable”) is said to have originated from the idea that “it is unbelievable to eat the chrysanthemum, symbol of the Imperial Family” or from the notion that the chrysanthemum is “unbelievably delicious.”    

Yunohama Onsen

Yunohama Onsen, which history goes back 1,000 years ago, is a coastal hot spring resort where hotels and inns line the coast of the Sea of Japan. Its origins are traced back to the legend that in the years 1050’s, a bleeding turtle soothed its wounds in the hot water that welled up by the seaside. The vast sandy beach and the setting sun over the Sea of Japan create breathtaking scenery. Some accommodations offer the opportunity to enjoy the sunset over the Sea of Japan while bathing.

In the surrounding area, you can find the Zenpoji Temple : one of Japan’s 3 Main Soto Zen Buddhist Temples, the Kamo Aquarium, Oyama village and its sake breweries, and easy access to Shonai Airport and the Yamagata Expressway.

Near the Kameya ryokan and not far from the beach, there is a popular foot bath and a drinking fountain. The foot baths are designed with accessibility in mind and are appreciated by the elderly. Some inns such as Tatsunoyu also offer day-use hot spring services, don’t hesitate to use their baths after a visit to the aquarium or to Zenpoji for example!

List of hotels/ryokan/inns

Hotels/ryokan

NamePhone numberCapacity (persons)Address
Kameya0235-75-2301400Yunohama 1-5-50
Yukaitei Miyajima0235-75-2311210Yunohama 1-6-4
Yunohama Hotel0235-75-235925Yunohama 1-3-36
Yusuitei Isagoya0235-75-2211261Yunohama 1-8-7
Takeya Hotel0235-75-2031250Yunohama 1-9-25
Ikkyu0235-75-212166Yunohama 1-10-29
Tatsunoyu0235-75-2241130Yunohama 2-4-47
Hamaakari0235-75-213475Yunohama 1-26-4
Hotel Tetraresort Tsuruoka0235-76-3800250Shimogawa-ji Shojiba 358-3
Hanayubi Nihonkai0235-75-2021300Shimogawa-ji Kubohata 1-523
Seiyo Saryo0235-75-21889 roomsYunohama 1-25-1

Guesthouses/inns

NamePhone numberAddress
Fukuhokan0235-76-2936Yunohama 1-9-34
Hamaizumi0235-75-2418Yunohama 1-12-31
Shirahamaya0235-75-2275Yunohama 1-15-7
Masagoya0235-75-2057Yunohama 1-19-26

Bicycle rental “Wakame”!

Duration: From April to November 30th

Hours: 9:30 AM to 5:00 PM Note: If returned by 5:00 PM, the deposit will be refunded (Deposit System)

Fees (Per Day):

  • Electric Bicycles: ¥2,500 per unit (Including tax and a  ¥1,000 deposit)
    • Includes 4 units of mama-chari type and 4 units of sports type.
  • Geared Bicycles: ¥1,000 per unit (Including tax and a ¥500 deposit)
    • Includes 4 units of mama-chari type.

Where? Yunohama Hot Spring Sightseeing Information Center 湯野浜温泉観光協会 (Google maps)

Atsumi Onsen

Atsumi Onsen’s origins trace back 1200 years ago. Several legends converge to the same point in history but all offer a different version of Atsumi Onsen’s origins. They all have in common the healing properties of Atsumi’s hot water: rich in sodium, calcium and sulfates; it is said to be particularly effective for healing wounds, cuts and chronic fatigue. Along the banks of the Atsumi river, in front of the several inns and ryokan, over a hundred cherry trees give an enchanting view in late April/early May, but also has many surprises to give during other seasons: ayu sweetfish fishing in summer and trouts going up the river in autumn.

In Atsumi Onsen, you’ll find three communal foot baths: “Anbe-yu,” “Mosshe-yu,” and “Mokke-yu,” each offering the soothing benefits of the hot spring waters. Of special interest is the charming “Chitto Mosshe” foot bath cafe, which is affiliated with “Mosshe-yu.” This elegant cafe, coupled with an adjacent art gallery, offers a tranquil atmosphere where you can savor unique beverages and delectable sweets. The cafe also showcases the creations of local textile artists and handmade crafts, adding to its distinctive appeal.

Atsumi Onsen, once beloved by nobility and commoners alike, has a rich and welcoming atmosphere. It has a long history as a hot spring resort and has left behind the warm hospitality it has extended to numerous guests in its inns and morning markets. The historic morning market offers local products like Atsumi kabu (turnips) and textiles made of tree bark (Shinaori), as well as fresh mountain vegetables.

Hikers will like to venture inside Mt. Atsumi-dake’s forests, a challenging 2.5 hours (one-way) which will give you a breathtaking view on the Shonai coasts once you have reached its top. The main hiking entrance is a 5 min. walk from the Atsumi Onsen. From June to October, the rose park in front of the Kumano shrine allows visitors to see more than 90 rose species  (peak season: June); while savoring a delicious rose-shaped ice cream.

List of hotels/ryokan/inns

Hotels/ryokan

NamePhone numberCapacity (persons)AddressDaytime bathing
Tachibanaya0235-43-2211403Atsumi-cho 3Yes
Kashiwaya0235-43-201125Atsumi-ko 191Yes (600 yen)
Kuon0235-43-4119222Atsumi-ji Yunojiri 83-3Prior phone call necessary
Bankokuya0570-00-8598580Atsumi-cho 1No
Atsumiso0235-43-288841Atsumi-ko 188No
Azumaya0235-43-234524Atsumi-ko 171Yes (600 yen)
Takinoya Ryokan0235-43-302554Atsumi-ko 169No

Yutagawa Onsen

Legend has it that the origins of Yutagawa Onsen can be traced back to a period between 708 and 715 when villagers witnessed a white heron soothing its wounds in hot water. Another tale attributes the creation of the hot spring to a cow with an eye ailment that accidentally opened a hole in the ground, causing healing water to flow. During the Edo Period (1603-1868), Yutagawa Onsen gained favor as a destination for physical rejuvenation, particularly for the local lords, the Sakai Family. Commoners also frequented the town to unwind and celebrate after completing rigorous training at Dewa Sanzan. Located in proximity to Mt. Kinbo, a sacred mountain associated with Mt. Haguro during the 13th and 14th centuries, it was not unusual to encounter Yamabushi trainees in the baths of Yutagawa Onsen during that era.

Yutagawa Onsen is a charming and traditional hot spring village, characterized by its collection of small wooden bath houses situated around the Yuzusame-jinja Shrine and its 300 plum trees in the Plum Flower Park (blossom season: March/April). The baths are of modest size, and the guest rooms exude a peaceful ambiance, making it an ideal destination for families or couples in search of privacy and tranquility.

Yutagawa Onsen is the perfect place for hikers who wish to visit many little shrines hidden in nature or to climb Mt. Kinbo.

List of hotels/ryokan/inns

Hotels/ryokan

NamePhone numberCapacity (persons)Address
Kuhe Ryokan0235-35-277770Yutagawa Otsu 19
Yudonoan0235-35-220024Yutagawa Otsu 38
Tamaya0235-35-353537Yutagawa Otsu 39
Tsukasaya0235-35-230157Yutagawa Otsu 52
Ridayu Ryokan0235-35-288840Yutagawa Otsu 51
Hayato Ryokan0235-35-335550Yutagawa Otsu 56
Masuya Ryokan0235-35-321135Yutagawa Otsu 63
Yutagawa Senso0235-35-377370Yutagawa Otsu 13

Daytime bathing:

Daytime bathing is also possible in most establishments, but priority is given to overnight customers. Hence, please make sure with the establishments by phone if you can use their baths during daytime.

You can also use the public bath house “Shomen no Yu”, “Ta no yu”, or the footbaths “Shirasagi no yu” near the Yuzusame-jinja shrine.

Special souvenirs from Yutagawa Onsen: Just like in any onsen, you can buy “manju” cakes (sweet-red-beans-stuffed steamed wheat cakes) in Yutagawa Onsen. But Yutagawa’s manju are special in that they are shaped to remind the symbols of the town: breast-shaped manju (oppai-manju) to remind the “breasted-ginkgo tree” in front of the Yuzusame Shrine or  hyottoko buffoon-man face manju (hyottoko manju), to remind the local kagura festival. The 6-piece souvenir manju box costs 1500 yen (tax included). You can order one by asking Tsukasaya Ryokan prior to your arrival.

Main events:

🌸Plum blossom festival:

Late March to mid-April

🎍 Moso-bamboo festival:

Early May to mid-June

🐝 Fireflies festival:

Mid-June to Early July (Genji fireflies) Late June to Late July (Heike fireflies)

Yura Onsen

In September 2022, Yura Onsen in Tsuruoka received recognition as a “National Health Resort Hot Springs” (国民保養温泉地), becoming the latest hot spring town in the area to achieve this status. Yura Onsen is known for its distinctive feature, Hakusan-jima (Hakusan Islet), which is home to the Hakusan Shrine. A prominent bright red bridge connects the islet to the mainland, symbolizing the transition from the secular to the sacred.

Visitors to Yura Onsen can enjoy various attractions, including a fishing pond on the islet and the stunning sunset views from the beach, which are ranked among Japan’s top 100 most beautiful sunset spots. Yura’s beaches are also recognized as one of Japan’s 100 most scenic coastal destinations.

List of hotels/ryokan/inns

Hotels/ryokan

NamePhone numberCapacity (persons)Address
Hotel Yaotome0235-73-3811350Yura 3-13-31
Hori Ryokan0235-73-315825Yura 2-3-33
Hotel Sunresort Shonai0235-38-808876Yura 3-17-20

Guesthouses/inns with an onsen

NamePhone numberAddress
Honma Giichi0235-73-2552Yura 2-3-24
Onsen Minshuku Ishikawa0235-73-2472Yura 2-20-18

Sunset time for reference:

(Please note that those times are purely indicative and not definitive, might differ according to the year or weather)

April: 18:01

May: 18:29

June: 18:56

July: 19:06

August: 18:49

September: 18:10

October: 17:23

November: 16:40

SHONAI HOTEL SUIDEN TERRASSE

Suiden Terrasse, designed by the renowned Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, is celebrated for his contemporary wooden architectural designs. Nestled amidst rice fields, the terrace offers captivating vistas, with picturesque scenes as the sun sets and pristine white landscapes during winter. The facility boasts an onsen, a gym, a restaurant named RESTAURANT MOON TERRASSE, and a children’s playground is just around the corner.

Tokyo Dai-ichi Hotel Tsuruoka

Tokyo Dai-ichi Hotel Tsuruoka is a contemporary establishment situated just behind the “S-Mall” shopping center, a short distance from Tsuruoka Station. The rooms are furnished with European-style beds instead of traditional futons. Guests can enjoy a natural hot spring pool within the hotel premises. Conveniently positioned behind S-Mall, the hotel is right next to the S-Mall bus station, making it an excellent choice for accommodation if you intend to utilize the bus services.

Yaotome

“Yaotome” translates to “8 maidens” in Japanese. The term refers to the eight ladies who played a crucial role in aiding Prince Hachiko, the legendary founder of Dewa Sanzan, in reaching Mt. Haguro. Among these eight ladies, two were particularly attentive to Prince Hachiko, providing him with local fish and shellfish and hosting him in a cave in Yura. A statue commemorating these two ladies, “Miô” and “Ehime,” can be found near the beach.
Yaotome embodies this tradition of hospitality towards travelers by specializing in seafood. The cuisine at Yaotome highlights fresh fish served as sashimi and grilled fish and shellfish. Additionally, its outdoor baths are designed after the thermae of ancient Rome, adding to the overall experience of relaxation and rejuvenation.