Tsuruoka’s Tenjin Matsuri is an annual event held on May 25th. During this unique festival, hundreds of masked men, known as “bakemono” (disguised men), roam the streets of Tsuruoka carrying sake bottles and cups. Their mission? To offer free sake to anyone interested. If you desire a cup of sake, don’t hesitate to approach them. However, keep in mind that these bakemono don’t engage in conversation as they prefer to remain anonymous by refraining from speaking.
Origins of the Tenjin Matsuri:
The Tenjin Matsuri is a festival observed in various cities across Japan and is typically organized by shrines dedicated to the Tenjin god, also recognized as the holy spirit of Sugawara no Michizane. Sugawara no Michizane (845-903) was a talented poet and influential Minister of the Right at the court of Emperor Uda. Despite Emperor Uda’s trust in Michizane, his son favored Fujiwara no Tokihira, a rival of Michizane. Through a plot devised by Fujiwara no Tokihira, Michizane was exiled in 901 to Kyushu, where he passed away in distress two years later. Following his death, calamities befell the nation, especially those involved in Michizane’s exile, leading people to believe that Michizane’s vengeful spirit was causing these misfortunes. To appease Michizane’s spirit, he was deified as Tenjin, the god of thunder and knowledge. Annually, in all Tenmangu shrines (dedicated to Tenjin), people celebrate the greatness of Sugawara no Michizane. In Tsuruoka, the festival reenacts Michizane’s exile story. According to local lore, the people of Kyoto, who deeply admired Michizane, couldn’t let him depart without a farewell festival. Since speaking to an exile was forbidden, the people concealed their identities with masks, large hats, and unisex clothing. To avoid detection by snitches, the masked participants remained silent, expressing their love for Michizane through a silent festival where sake flowed freely.
Oyama Inu Matsuri: Oyama’s Dog Festival
The Oyama Dog Festival (Oyama Inu Matsuri) is a centuries-old tradition originating from the rice-farming village of Oyama, with roots dating back over 300 years. The festivities commemorate Mekke-inu, a legendary dog celebrated for its heroic deeds that supposedly saved the village from demons. The festival unfolds through grand parades and rituals, commencing in Oyama village and culminating at the Sugio (or Suginō) Shrine.
Legend of Mekke-inu:
Centuries ago, Sugio Shrine was occupied by two demons, causing distress among the villagers of Oyama. Desperate to rid themselves of the malevolent entities, the demons demanded the sacrifice of the youngest and most beautiful girl in the village every 5th of June. Refusal led to the destruction of fields and a year-long famine curse.
The demons would choose the victim by shooting a white-feathered arrow into the door of the house where the most beautiful girl lived. A Shugendo pilgrim passing through Oyama witnessed the festival and learned of the tragic fate awaiting the chosen girl.
Determined to intervene, the pilgrim followed the sacrificial carriage and, hidden in Sugio Shrine’s forest, witnessed the gruesome scene. Two demon-like entities, resembling giant old men, gleefully carried out the sacrifice, singing a macabre song about Tanba’s Mekke-inu.
Horrified but determined, the pilgrim journeyed to Tanba (present-day Kyoto) to find Mekke-inu. Despite discovering that Mekke-inu was just an ordinary dog, the pilgrim returned to Oyama with the canine companion. In a quick-thinking move during the festival, Mekke-inu was substituted for the young girl in the carriage, tricking the demons.
As the demons opened the carriage, expecting their usual victim, Mekke-inu leaped ferociously, engaging them in a fierce battle. Ultimately, Mekke-inu and the demons lay lifeless, with the villagers mourning the courageous sacrifice of the dog.
The festival now serves as a celebration of the bravery and loyalty of dogs, ensuring that Mekke-inu’s courage is remembered by generations to come.
Fujishima Shishi Odori: Fujishima’s Lion Dance
The detailed history of the Shishi Dance was unfortunately lost in a fire long ago. According to oral tradition, the festival originally served as a ritual for a shrine in Soikawa village, which no longer exists. The shrine was rebuilt in 1681 as Ryôsho Shrine in Yamagata City.
The first Ryôsho Shrine is estimated to have been constructed around 700 years ago during the Kamakura Period (1185-1333). A Lieutenant named Umezu 梅津中将 was dispatched by the authorities to oversee Mt. Haguro. Umezu built a castle in Soikawa during his administration, and in the castle’s shrine, he enshrined the gods of Mt. Chokai (Ômonohime no ôkami 大物忌大神) and Mt. Gassan (Gassan no ôkami 月山大神). This shrine eventually became Ryôsho Shrine 両所神社. However, military revolts during the Tenshô era (late 16th century) forced Umezu to abandon the castle, leading to the cessation of religious activities at Ryôsho Shrine and the discontinuation of the festival.
In homage to the original location of the festivities, the people of Soikawa continue to organize the same festival on the banks of the Soikawa River every year on August 18th.
Akagawa Hanabi Taikai: Tsuruoka Akagawa’s Fireworks Festival
During Akagawa’s Fireworks Festival, pyrotechnicians from across the country converge to compete and showcase their latest skills in a spectacular display lasting 1 hour and 45 minutes. In 2014, the festival earned the 10th place ranking in the top 100 Japanese fireworks according to Yahoo Fireworks.
The Hassakusai (八朔祭) ceremony is a day when all Yamabushi practitioners who participated in the Autumn retreat (秋の峰入り – aki no mine iri) gather in Mt. Haguro. They partake in various rituals in front of the Hachiko Shrine (蜂子神社), dedicated to the legendary prince Hachiko, considered the founder of Mt. Haguro and Dewa Sanzan.
During the ceremony, there are several rites involving purifying fire held throughout the night. These rituals are dedicated to the esoteric Buddhist god of fire, Aguni. The fire is believed to burn away human stains and sins, allowing individuals to return to Mother Earth as ashes.
Shinaori matsuri: A Festival for one of the Three Most Ancient Textiles in Japan
Shonai Taisai
This annual festival takes place during October (specific dates may vary) at the Shonai Shrine. Attendees have the opportunity to witness historical reenactments and religious ceremonies that pay homage to the legacy of the Shonai Clan.
About the Shonai Clan:
The Shonai Shrine is dedicated to the spirits of the Sakai Family, who were the lords of the Shonai region from 1622 to 1868. Renowned for their commitment to education and military prowess, the Sakai Family, as leaders of the Shonai Clan, played a significant role in local history. During the Boshin War (1868), the Shonai Clan, loyal to the Tokugawa shogunate, valiantly fought without suffering defeat until the very end. Their unwavering commitment continued until they ultimately surrendered following the defeat of their allies, notably the Aizu clan. With the establishment of the Meiji government, the shogunate system was dismantled, and local lords lost their titles. Consequently, the Shonai Clan’s castle, Tsurugaoka-jô 鶴ヶ岡城, was dismantled in 1871. In 1877, the Shonai Shrine (Shonai-jinja 荘内神社) was erected on its grounds to commemorate the Sakai family and the legacy of the Shonai Clan.
Tsuruoka’s Food Calendar
The city of Tsuruoka is located in Yamagata Prefecture’s seaside region: the Shonai region. The Shonai region is blessed with a rich natural environment that allows you to experience the changing seasons to the fullest in Japan. It is abundant with various seasonal ingredients, such as mountain vegetables and mushrooms from the mountains, rice, bamboo shoots, edamame, and other local delicacies cultivated in the fields, as well as seafood like cherry salmon and cod from the sea. Throughout the year, you can enjoy a diverse culinary culture that makes the most of the flavors of the season.
Tsuruoka’s food culture has been cherished and passed down for centuries and was recognized as a “UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy” in December 2014. The “heirloom crops” that local farmers have preserved for centuries, along with their cultivation methods, encompass over 60 different varieties and have captivated visitors as “living cultural treasures.”
We encourage you to savor the seasonal cuisine at ryokans, hotels, and local restaurants in the city.
Delicious Tsuruoka Gourmet Journey : Tsuruoka Gastronomy Tourism to Experience Gourmet Food and Food Culture
Located on the seaward side of Yamagata Prefecture in Japan’s Tohoku region, the city of Tsuruoka is blessed with the rich natural landscapes of the Shonai Plain, the Sea of Japan, and surrounding mountains. Nurtured by this abundant nature, Tsuruoka’s food culture has been carefully passed down for hundreds of years, and the locale has been certified as Japan’s first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. The shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) nurtured at the Dewa Sanzan mountain shrines is known as food culture unique to Tsuruoka, where spiritual cultural values has long been cherished.
Please take a look at the article about gastronomy tourism in Tsuruoka City!
Shoreisai: The Last Yamabushi Celebration of the Year
The Shoreisai (松例祭) festival is one of the most significant Yamabushi rituals of the year, held on the 31st of December annually. The ceremonies are open for everyone to witness.
This festival marks the conclusion of the “winter retreat” (冬の峰入り – fuyu no mine iri), one of the four seasonal Yamabushi training sessions. During the winter retreat, a chosen practitioner of Mt. Haguro, known as the Matsu-Hijiri (松聖), retreats for 100 days in the mountains, awaiting the spirit of the goddess of cereals, Ukanomitama, to inhabit their body. The Matsu-Hijiri’s role is to protect the holy spirits of the grains and pray for bountiful harvests in the coming year.
On the night of December 31st, the Matsu-Hijiri and other Yamabushi of Mt. Haguro participate in various purifying ceremonies that extend into the next day, with the aim of blessing the crops.
Due to the potential danger of using Haguro’s stairs under snowy conditions, it is recommended to disembark from the bus or park your car at Haguro Sancho (羽黒山頂).
Interview with TSURUOKA FŪDO GUIDE
The city of Tsuruoka in Yamagata Prefecture has carefully passed on its food culture nurtured by abundant nature for hundreds of years. In December 2014, it became the first city in Japan to be designated a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. Over several centuries, farming families have safeguarded over 60 varieties of heirloom crops, which, along with their cultivation methods inherited across generations, fascinate visitors as living cultural assets. Additionally, the shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) developed at the Dewa Sanzan mountain shrines is known as distinctive Tsuruoka food culture that values spirituality.
To spread awareness of Tsuruoka’s appealing cuisine, its background, and the history and culture behind it, the “FŪDO (Food x Culture) Guides” were established. The FŪDO Guide program was sparked by the UNESCO Creative City designation, and the guides are involved in a range of efforts ranging from international exchange and tourist guiding to outreach targeting local residents. This article delves into FŪDO Guide Ms. Yamaguchi’s passion for Tsuruoka cuisine.
The FŪDO Guides were created with the desire for more people to encounter and be moved by Tsuruoka’s wonderful food culture. The activities began in conjunction with Tsuruoka becoming Japan’s first UNESCO Creative City in 2014. At the time, I had just obtained certification as a vegetable sommelier, and I decided to work as a FŪDO Guide out of a desire to spread knowledge of Tsuruoka’s heritage crops more widely.
– Please tell us about the work involved in being a FŪDO Guide.
The term “FŪDO Guide” incorporates the meanings of “food,” “fudo (natural features of the region),” and “guide.” Rather than just introducing foods, our goal is to foster understanding of Tsuruoka’s food culture by providing information and experiences conveying what lies behind it. My work includes accompanying monitor tours and on-site visits as a guide, as well as proposing and executing tour content. I also hold seminars and site visits for local community associations. FŪDO Guides must be certification, and qualification requires not only knowledge about food ingredients, the region’s natural features, history, and the like, but also the ability to communicate, plan, take action, and build connections to disseminate knowledge. Even after qualifying, we continuously strive to enhance our skills and share information among guides to transmit Tsuruoka’s food culture with passion.
– Do you incorporate any special touches when guiding tours?
When guiding, I prepare an explanatory sketchbook to have priorly researched information on hand to answer various questions. Each of us FŪDO Guides has our own unique sketchbooks, and I’ve made about 20 of them. They cover such diverse themes as self-introductions, slash-and-burn agriculture, Mount Haguro, Shonai sand dune melons, dadacha beans, moso bamboo, and more. When serving Shonai cuisine, I strive to provide information tailored to the places of origin and tastes of the guests.
– Do you get opportunities to host guests from overseas?
I am also involved in overseas tourism development and accepting non-Japanese visitors. Around seven years ago I served as the coordinator for an exchange with an Italian food-science university. Since receiving the UNESCO designation, on-site visits have increased, and I’ve helped individually plan itineraries for some non-Japanese guests during their stays in Tsuruoka. Hosting overseas visitors requires creating a relaxed schedule in terms of time, because Japanese-style tours feel overly packed. Tsuruoka boasts diverse appeal, so sufficient time is essential to convey it all. I have the flaw of sometimes talking too much, but I work hard to provide high-quality information.
– Is there anything you want to communicate to local residents?
I hope local residents can gain an awareness of elements of Shonai’s charm that they normally take for granted but are actually unique compared to other regions. FŪDO Guides believe it’s important to raise awareness of and share knowledge about local cuisine and food culture. For example, it would be wonderful if locals could casually chat with tourists passing by on the street who ask, “Is there any good food around here? Where can I eat?” There are also many people who are interested in learning more about local cuisine, and we hold study sessions to provide opportunities to deepen knowledge.
– What message do you want to convey as a FŪDO Guide?
Tsuruoka is a wonderful place where you can enjoy delicious seasonal ingredients. A history and culture of cuisine cultivated by previous generations has taken root here, and learning about it can further deepen your understanding of food culture. I have utmost confidence in eating as the number one Shonai foodie. Please do visit Tsuruoka and enjoy the tasty local fare to the fullest. My hope is for the region’s natural features that change seasons paired with Tsuruoka’s food culture will become wonderful lasting memories for our guests.
Ms. Yamaguchi is active as a FŪDO Guide
Report on the chef training program held on january 25, 2024.
“Achieving Food Diversity through Creativity and Ingenuity”
For the past decade, Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture, designated as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, has been advancing gastronomy tourism as a unified community effort. Recently, with an eye on inbound demand, they have been actively promoting food diversity and culinary variety. On November 13, 2023, they hosted the “Tsuruoka Gastronomy Summit,” where they explored the history and allure of Shojin cuisine, followed by a discussion on Tsuruoka’s culinary diversity and potential on the 14th. A major challenge that emerged during these discussions was how to acquire the necessary knowledge to realize food diversity. As one solution, a “Vegetarian Training Seminar” was held on January 25, 2024, at the Al Ché-cciano Academy.
The seminar was divided into two parts, with the first part featuring Masayuki Okuda, the owner chef of Al Ché-cciano, who had previously spoken at the summit and has long been a driving force behind the region’s gastronomy. The second part was led by Yasuhiro Higa, CEO of Maestranza, who is not only a chef but also engages in regional food production across Japan.
“The number of culinary options available is crucial”
The first part, titled “Okuda-style Vegetarian Gastronomy,” began with theoretical discussions. According to Chef Okuda, who has conducted independent research on Tsuruoka’s culinary potential for many years, Japan boasts the most diverse range of vegetables and fish species globally, with the country’s status as the final destination on the Silk Road cited as a significant factor contributing to the abundant variety of vegetables, particularly in Tsuruoka City. The city boasts 141 species of fishery products, along with a rich array of vegetables and fruits, including approximately 56 varieties of grapes and about 40 varieties of apples. This diversity is attributed to the region’s diverse terrain, ranging from plains to mountains, resulting in varied climates, as well as the cultural background of pilgrims bringing valuable “seeds,” such as vegetables and fruits, as offerings due to their monetary value in connection with the faith in the Dewa Sanzan mountains. This cultural tradition has helped preserve ancient vegetables and other produce for centuries.
Due to the proximity of mountains and sea, the region has a history of incorporating seafood into mountain vegetable dishes, which has also influenced the deliciousness of Tsuruoka’s cuisine. For example, the presence of inosinic acid in ingredients like bonito flakes enhances umami flavors when combined with glutamic acid, resulting in a fivefold increase in umami. Based on this background, the Okuda-style vegetarian training focused on two dishes: “Pescatarian” dishes that combine vegetables with seafood, known as “Pescatarian,” and three vegan dishes, including one that won third place in the 2016 “The Vegetarian Chance” vegetable cooking contest in Milan, Italy.
（ベジピラミッド図）
The first dish created by Chef Okuda, which won third place globally, is similar to Ratatouille, featuring vegetables such as cucumbers, carrots, and myoga fermented with salt without heating. The difference from Ratatouille lies in the fact that, whereas the Mediterranean region has a dry climate resulting in strong bitterness in vegetables, which is neutralized with olive oil and heat, Tsuruoka’s vegetables are naturally sweet, eliminating the need for heating. This dish is titled “Tsuruoka Dashi Winter Version,” inspired by the local cuisine of “Yamagata’s dashi.”
The two “Pescatarian” dishes, inspired by the snowy landscape of Mt. Gassan, include “Nodoguro Mousse,” which brings out the richness of the blackthroat seaperch, and “Kin Kara sea bream and Squid and Zucchini,” where the subtlety of the Kin Kara sea bream is brought out by browning it at 175 degrees Celsius. Chef Okuda emphasized the importance of condensing umami flavors specific to each ingredient, such as extracting fat effectively from nodoguro and browning the mild-flavored Kin Kara sea bream. He stated that chefs need to have a wide range of skills to achieve this. During the subsequent Q&A session, questions focused on topics unique to culinary training, such as oil and oven temperatures, and starch properties.
To prevent exhaustion on the ground: “Substitution”
In the second part, following a break, Higa started with an explanation of the connections between regions and food, titled “The First Step Towards Food Diversity.” Higa, who has been involved in producing local food as a tourism resource in various places across Japan, from restaurant buses in Kyoto Tango to old folk houses in Miyagi’s hot spring areas, as well as at Hakodate Airport and Lake Towada, remarked that even from his perspective, the richness of ingredients and the allure of food culture in Shonai are exceptional. However, not everyone in the food and hospitality industry can afford to engage with food diversity with ease. There are operational issues such as manpower and financial constraints.
Therefore, Higa imparted strategies for overcoming these practical challenges. One of them is the concept of “substitution.” Instead of learning new dishes from scratch, it involves substituting existing or familiar dishes. For example, if there is a vegan customer in a group, even something as simple as vegetable tempura with soba noodles can be satisfying. The key is to pay attention to the bonito broth in the dipping sauce and the egg in the tempura batter. Additionally, dishes like hot pot or mixed rice can serve as main dishes. Higa also introduced the use of rapidly evolving alternative foods. Soy meat can replace meat, SOY scramble can replace eggs, and soy milk or coconut milk can replace dairy. Furthermore, desserts, which have been a concern in the past, now have fermented soy milk that resembles whipped cream, and there are pie crusts available without butter. By combining these ready-made products with Shonai’s strengths, such as vegetables and fruits, one can create sufficiently attractive dishes.
Higa then offered six dishes, including “Soy Taco and SOY Cheese Bruschetta,” “Veggie Scramble,” “Soba with Raw Seven Spice Peperoncino,” “Vegetable Rendang (Indonesian-style Curry),” “SOY Tiramisu,” and “SOY Mille-feuille.” Participants who tasted the dishes expressed surprise at their high quality. Finally, Higa stated that food diversity can be achieved through “stock,” “knowledge,” and “mindset,” emphasizing the importance of supporting this attitude throughout the city, which can resonate with inbound customers and lead to repeat visits. The participants seemed encouraged to take a step forward by the strong lectures from both speakers.
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