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THE MOUNTAIN OF THE MOON

―1984m. high

Mount Gassan, the oldest and tallest mountain of the Dewa Sanzan, has always been the core of the Dewa Sanzan’s mountain worshipping practices. Many people automatically think of Mt. Haguro when referencing the Dewa Sanzan; however, the oldest mention of the Dewa Sanzan in historical writings talks about a  “Gassan Shrine.” Built between 712 and 773, this is proof that Mount Gassan was worshipped long before the two other mountains.
 
The Shinto deity worshipped on Mt. Gassan is Tsukiyomi 月読命, the incarnation of the moon.

　

Who is Tsukiyomi?

The founding god of Japan, Izanagi, was married, but his wife died giving birth to the Fire god. When Izanagi visited his beloved wife in the afterworld, his soul became stained by the impure view of his wife’s rotten corpse. To cleanse his sins away, he bathed in holy water. Upon cleaning his left eye, the Sun Goddess, Amaterasu, was born; when he cleaned his right eye, the Moon God, Tsukiyomi was born. Tsukiyomi was ordered to reign over the world of the night—and the world of the Dead.
 
Later, Tsukiyomi went on to kill the goddess of crops, Ukemochi no kami (保食神). The Sun Goddess (Amaterasu) became angry at her brother and punished Tsukiyomi by ordering him to live apart from her. This was the beginning of day and night separation. In order to make amends, Tsukiyomi promised to help agriculture on Earth.
 
This solidified the link between the god of the moon and crops and food. Tsukiyomi is forever thought of as the god that rules over the night, the world of the Dead, and the one that protects agriculture.

THE MOUNTAIN OF FUTURE

ー1500m. high

Mount Yudono was not always part of the Dewa Sanzan. For geographical survey reasons, Mt. Yudono replaced Mt. Hayama (which, itself, replaced Mt. Chokai) in the early 17th century. It is said that Mt. Yudono was made a sacred place for Buddhism by Kukai—the founder of Shingon Buddhism himself.

　

Who is Kukai?

Kukai, also known as Kobo Daishi (774-835), is a Japanese monk who founded the Shingon school of Buddhism. People considered him a Shaman, someone who could grant wishes by reciting spells. In Shingon Buddhism, the Buddha embodies the entire universe and incarnates the Universal Truth; he is called  Vairocana (in Japanese: Dainichi-nyorai). In Kukai’s Shingon Buddhism, followers are taught how to “become a Vairocana Buddha” by reciting Vairocana’s words. According to Kukai, everybody can become a “Buddha” in their present life. This concept is called Sokushinjobutsu 即身成仏, and is attainable through enlightenment and esoteric training.

Haguro and Yudono—a complicated relationship

When Mt. Haguro converted to Tendai Buddhism in 1642 for political reasons, Mt. Yudono was expected to do the same. But Mt. Yudono refused to substitute Tendai Buddhism for Shingon; to do so would be considered treasonous to Kukai, the mountain’s founder. As a result, Mt. Haguro’s officials were outraged by Yudono’s refusal to abide by their rules and convert to Shingon Buddhism.
 
Temples on Mt. Yudono, such as Dainichibo and Churenji, subsequently turned the Sokushinjobutsu concept into a concrete practice: live mummification. Out of the 20 sokushinbutsu mummies in Japan, 11 of them were monks who trained on Mt. Yudono. There are 8 mummies in Yamagata Prefecture (4 in Tsuruoka, and 2 in Sakata City). Others can be found in Niigata Prefecture.

 

The Five-Storied Pagoda was built between 931 and 937, but the current pagoda is a reconstruction from 1369 (the pagoda burnt in a big fire a few years before). The metallic spike at the top of the pagoda is called a sôrin 相輪, and Mt. Haguro’s pagoda’s sôrin dates back to 1377.
It is 29 meters tall, and each roof is covered in wood shingles (kokerabuki 杮葺き). It was designated a National Treasure in 1966.

It used to contain Buddhist statues of Mt. Haguro’s bodhisattvas (Shôkannon 聖観音, Kundali 軍荼利, and Myôken 妙見). They were removed in the 1870s after the government ordained Dewa Sanzan’s conversion to Shintoism only, and replaced by statues of the Shinto god of commerce: Okuninushi no Mikoto 大国主命.

＊Maintenance works on Mt. Haguro’s pagoda from May 2023 to May 2025 (outside winter season)
Mt. Haguro’s pagoda will be under maintenance works from May 2023 to May 2025 outside the winter season.
Scaffolds, tarps and other devices might hinder the view on the pagoda. However, the scaffolding will be removed during snowy season so our visitors can appreciate the view of the snowy pagoda as usual.

Notice of the Roof Replacement Work for the National Treasure Hagurosan Five-Story Pagoda in FY2024

National Treasure Hagurosan Five-Story Pagoda: The shingled roof has been under renovation since last year. The scaffolding was dismantled in November in preparation for the winter season, but construction is expected to resume on May 13 (Mon.), 2024. Construction schedule for FY2024: May 13 (Mon.) to September 30 (Mon.), 2024. *The schedule may change depending on weather and other conditions.

The Dewa Sanzan Shrine, known as Dewa Sanzan-jinja in Japanese, is situated within the Sanjingosaiden structure atop Mt. Haguro. Reconstructed in 1818 following a destructive fire, this shrine serves as the sacred home for the three deities representing the Dewa Sanzan, which includes Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono. Pilgrims can offer year-round worship to these gods, overcoming the winter inaccessibility of Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono due to heavy snowfall, while Mt. Haguro, the smallest of the trio, remains accessible thanks to its (relatively) light snowfalls.
The Dewa Sanzan Shrine is a focal point for religious ceremonies and decision-making related to the Dewa Sanzan. Daily prayers occur every hour from 8:40 am to 3:45 pm, offering a free spectacle for observers. However, participation in the prayer, including receiving a blessed votive plaque, incurs a fee of 5,000 yen per plaque (with one name per plaque; group participation costs 15,000 yen per group).
Adjacent to the Dewa Sanzan Shrine is the Sanshuden, a gathering hall, providing a free resting space for all visitors on Mt. Haguro. It includes amenities such as toilets, amulet-selling counters, drink vending machines, and the “Senbutsudo” (Thousand Buddha Hall), a free museum featuring Buddhist statues. This area is also where visitors can express their interest in joining the shrine’s prayer.
Notably, the Sanjingosaiden boasts the thickest thatch roof in Japan, measuring 2.1 meters in thickness, and is frequently undergoing renovation. Additionally, the giant bell and its belfry located in front of the Sanshuden hold the designation of a “National Important Cultural Property.”

Located at the base of Mt. Haguro, this museum also serves as the dispatch desk of the Haguromachi Guide Association, where Yamabushi guides are available. However, it is essential to make a reservation at least three days in advance of your visit. The museum tells the story of the Yamabushi of the Dewa Sanzan, showcasing an array of tools and garments associated with the various mountains. Periodically, it hosts special exhibitions delving into topics such as the religious divergence between Shinto and Buddhism over the Dewa Sanzan (“shinbutsubunri” in Japanese) and other themed events.

In the entrance, coin lockers are provided for securing your heavy belongings before embarking on a hike up Mt. Haguro. The coin lockers can be used for the same day only. If you need to have your belongings taken care of for longer periods of time, please ask the reception desk for their baggage-handling services. Additionally, visitors have the option to borrow rain boots at no cost or Yamabushi canes (known as kongozue in Japanese) for a nominal fee of 100 yen per person.

Most exhibited items only have an explanation in Japanese. Please bring a translator or an interpreter with you if you do not understand Japanese.

This museum was established in 1915 as the treasure house of the Dewa Sanzan Shrine. In the 27th year of the Showa era, it received designation under the Museum Act and was renamed the “Dewa Sanzan History Museum.” The current building was completed in 1970. Many of the artifacts in its collection date back to the era of syncretism between Shinto and Buddhism during the Shugendo period.

Shozen’in Temple’s Koganedo Hall, once designated as a National Treasure, is currently recognized as a National Important Cultural Property.
As the sole remaining temple of the Hagurosan Shugendo School of Buddhism, Shozen’in Temple actively preserves and upholds the Dewa Sanzan Yamabushi tradition.
Within Konagedo, numerous Buddhist statues, originally belonging to Dewa Sanzan before its conversion to Shintoism in 1868, can be found. Notable among these is a pair of colossal Nio gods that once guarded the Nio gate at the entrance of Mt. Haguro (now referred to as Zuishinmon gate).
Please note that visits to Shozen’in Temple are closed during the snowy months, typically from November to March (subject to change depending on snow conditions).

Gyokusenji Temple, established in 1251 by Ryozen Homyo, a disciple of Dogen (the founder of Soto Zen Buddhism), is affiliated with the Soto School of Zen Buddhism.
Renowned for its Zen garden, Gyokusenji’s garden has earned the distinction of being listed in the National Monuments of Scenic Beauty registry since 1982. You can also enjoy matcha green tea and Japanese sweets with a view of the garden.

Zazen classes are held on the 8th of each month at 7:00 pm and the 4th Sunday of the month at 7:00 am (800 yen at night, 1,500 yen in the morning; advance reservations required).

From June to October, the picturesque rose garden in Atsumi graces visitors with no fewer than 90 rose varieties and a dazzling array of 3000 roses in full bloom. The zenith of this blooming spectacle unfolds in June, offering a splendid opportunity to savor the beauty of these delicate blossoms. During this enchanting month, a local artisan of frozen delights crafts exquisite rose-shaped sorbets, adding a touch of whimsy to the experience. To commemorate this splendid sight, the onsen villagers come together to organize a “bara-matsuri” or “rose festival.”

The rose garden encircles the lower Kumano shrine, providing a serene and beautiful backdrop to this sacred place. For those seeking a deeper connection with nature and spirituality, the main Kumano shrine can be reached by embarking on the picturesque Mt. Atsumi hiking trail, ensuring a harmonious blend of natural beauty and cultural reverence.

This shrine was established in 1337 but is said to have existed as a place of worship before the 12th century since we have found a sword, presumably given by Minamoto no Yoshiie in 1091 as a protective war amulet.

Kihi Shrine’s name is composed of the characters for “food” (“ki” 気) and “spirit” (“hi” 比). It worships Ukemochi no Kami (goddess of cereals and food), the Empress Jingu, and the legendary Yamato Takeru.

National Natural Monument: Kihi Shrine’s forest & lake

Located only 800 meters (0.5 miles) from the coast, this sacred forest hosts more than 450 species of plants that thrive around its lake. The forest is particularly known for its big number of trees:

around 200 beech trees and 180 zelkova trees have been standing in the forest for several centuries.

Around the lake, you will find several worshipping altars dedicated to the goddess of food: Ukemochi no okami.

This shrine was built in the first half of the 10th century under the name of Minakami-gû 水上宮 (a generic name for shrines worshipping the dragon god of Water Mikumari no kami 水分神) but got rehabilitated into a Hachiman Shrine during the 11th century. It got its final name in the 13th century after it got renovated to worship the gods of agriculture and the military.

Its moss-covered stone path and its thatch-roofed shrine (National Important Cultural Property) give this place a timeless atmosphere.

Not far from the Minakami Hachiman Shrine, there is Mizusawa hamlet’s Kumano Shrine, a generic name given to shrines that worship the gods of Kumano Sanzan (another trio of holy mountains of Shugendo spirituality).

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The shrine was first built during the 10th century. Behind the shrine, the giant cedar tree, which age has been estimated over 1000 years old, has been registered in the National Natural Monuments lists in 1927. In 1932, a lightning bolt stroke the forest, provoking a giant fire near the cedar tree, but thanks to the hamlet’s people’s efforts, the cedar tree remained intact.