● Water ● Hiking shoes ● Rainwear ● Sun hat ● Hiking sticks ● Food or snacks
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.
1. Start at Yutagawa Onsen
2. Go to Fujisawa hamlet
3. Cross Fujisawa’s ricefields
4. You walk past Fujisawa’s temple
5. Follow the paved road
6. After passing the bamboo forest, you find this sign.
Please attach your bear bell to your gear before going further.
7. Follow the road in the middle of the bamboo forest
8. You spot the Kinbo Shrine torii gate
9. Enter the hiking trail
10. The vegetation is wild
11. It is hot during summer, make frequent stops
12. Continue climbing
13. Make sure your bear makes sound
14. Landslides lead tree to fall. Climb them.
15. Continue straight
16. You get out of the forest
17. You spot steles
18. You enter a forest again
19. Cross the dirt road to continue
Be careful to the cars that might be crossing on the dirt road.
20. The slope gets steeper
21. Viewpoint on Shonai plains
22. Another dirt road used by car crosses the road
23. Mountain toilet
Use if necessary
24. Mt. Kinbo’s viewpoint on Shonai Plains
25. This is the Gakkôzaka
26. Continue to Kinbozan Shrine
27. Kinbozan Shrine
28. Kinbozan Shrine
29. Go back to the dirt road but take the other direction this time
30. You are in a cedar forest
31. After some time, you come across this cave
This cave has been hosting life since the Jomon era.
32. Fallen trees on your way
33. Bamboo forest
34. From there, continue going straight to go back to Yutagawa Onsen
Tsuruoka’s Traditional Sweet: “Sasamaki”
A Beloved Confectionery Rooted in Tradition
Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture, recognized as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, is a hub of culinary excellence. Among its many traditional foods is Sasamaki (笹巻), a sweet with over 230 years of history. Sasamaki, made by wrapping glutinous rice in bamboo leaves and boiling it, has long been a festive dish for Tango no Sekku (端午の節句 Boys’ Festival) on May 5. While “chimaki (ちまき)” is commonly enjoyed nationwide, in Tsuruoka, the tradition is to celebrate with Sasamaki. Today, it is also enjoyed year-round as a beloved traditional sweet.
In the Shonai region, the method of making Sasamaki varies by area. In southern Shonai, where Tsuruoka is located, the predominant style involves using lye to produce yellow Sasamaki. In contrast, northern Shonai, including Sakata City, features white Sasamaki made without lye.
Glutinous Rice Turned Golden by Lye
The lush natural environment of Tsuruoka, where firewood was once a common fuel, made wood ash readily available. This ash, known as lye, is strongly alkaline with antibacterial and preservative properties. The lye water, derived by soaking the ash in water and skimming the surface liquid, enhances the preservation of Sasamaki, leading to the saying: “The quality of Sasamaki depends on the lye.” Around the Boys’ Festival season, lye water is even sold at local farmers’ markets. Tsuruoka’s traditional confectionery tochimochi (とちもち) also utilizes lye for removing bitterness from horse chestnuts, making Sasamaki and tochimochi iconic examples of Tsuruoka’s unique lye culture.
Wrap the glutinous rice in bamboo leaves. The photo shows the triangular “Sankaku-maki” style, resembling a triangular rice ball.
Preparing the Rice: Soak the glutinous rice in lye water overnight. Wrapping in Bamboo Leaves: Drain the rice and wrap it in bamboo leaves, securing it tightly with natural twine such as suge or igusa. Boiling: Place the wrapped Sasamaki in a pot and boil it in water. Cooling: After boiling, transfer the Sasamaki to cold water and rinse several times to cool.
While wrapping Sasamaki can be tricky at first, practice makes perfect!
The wrapping style varies by region and family, including the triangular “sankaku-maki,” the fist-like “kobushi-maki,” and the pointed “tsuno-maki.” For celebrations, large Sasamaki using dozens of leaves, known as “takenoko-maki,” are also made.
The wrapped Sasamaki, ready to be boiled in a pot.
The bamboo leaves used to wrap the glutinous rice have traditionally been considered best when harvested during the “Doyo” period. Doyo is a traditional term in the Japanese calendar referring to intercalary periods that occur four times a year—before each of the seasons: spring, summer, autumn, and winter. Therefore, during the height of summer, from late July to early August, they harvest enough bamboo leaves to last for the entire year.
While bamboo leaves were traditionally dried for preservation, modern methods include boiling them with baking soda to maintain a vivid green color and then freezing them for long-term storage. During the Boys’ Festival season, bamboo leaves are also sold at local markets in Tsuruoka.
Enjoying Sasamaki
A vibrant yellow color with a glossy, jiggly appearance and texture.
When unwrapped, Sasamaki reveals a glistening yellow, jelly-like texture. It’s typically enjoyed with kuromitsu (black syrup) and kinako (roasted soybean flour). In Tsuruoka, ao-kinako made from green soybeans is commonly used, enhancing the flavor with its bright green hue.
Participants learning how to wrap Sasamaki from the instructor during a hands-on workshop.
Sasamaki, once a festive food, is now a nostalgic local treat deeply loved by the community. To preserve its tradition, workshops teaching Sasamaki-making are actively held in Tsuruoka. Sasamaki can also be purchased at local supermarkets and specialty stores, making it a great souvenir for visitors. Be sure to give it a try!
Preserving Tradition for Future Generations
Sasamaki, with its long history and deep roots in regional culture, was recognized as a “100-Year Food” by the Agency for Cultural Affairs in March 2023. Furthermore, in March 2024, the Shonai Sasamaki Production Techniques were registered as a National Intangible Folk Cultural Property. These honors underscore Sasamaki’s value not just as a confectionery with a long history but as a symbol of culinary culture passed down through generations in the region.
Through Sasamaki, the wisdom of Tsuruoka and Shonai’s people, as well as the local environment and lifestyle, continues to be shared in modern times. As a cultural emblem, Sasamaki is expected to inspire pride in the community and remain a treasured tradition for future generations.
Experience Making the Traditional Sweet “Sasamaki” and the Local Dish “Imoni”! Agricultural & Culinary Culture Report Vol. 2
A six-day, five-night tour focusing on agriculture and culinary culture was held in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. The main activities included three days of Shonai persimmon harvesting, a day of sightseeing, and a culinary experience on the final day. On the last day, participants tried their hand at making Tsuruoka’s traditional sweet, “Sasamaki (笹巻),” and the local dish, “Imoni (芋煮) .”
The culinary experience took place at “Tsuruoka Food Culture Market FOODEVER,” located in front of JR Tsuruoka Station. The first part of the experience focused on making “Sasamaki,” a traditional confectionery with over 230 years of history.
Sasamaki is an essential delicacy for the Boys’ Festival (Tango no Sekku 端午の節句) and is known for its high preservation quality, yellowish hue, and chewy texture. In 2024, the technique for making Sasamaki in Shonai was designated a Registered Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan.
Participants were guided by Sasamaki expert Masuko Ito, who has over 40 years of experience. Her Sasamaki is also sold at the local farmers’ market, Sanchoku Asahi-Goo (産直あさひグー) .
Sasamaki is made by wrapping glutinous rice soaked in lye with bamboo leaves and boiling the package. For this experience, participants learned to wrap the bamboo leaves and fill them with rice. Both the bamboo leaves and the glutinous rice were locally sourced from Tsuruoka.
Gathering around the kitchen table, participants received a demonstration from Ms. Ito. First, bamboo leaves were layered to form a cone, filled with lye-soaked rice, and tied with a string called Igusa. The process was challenging for first-timers, requiring repeated attempts under Ms. Ito’s patient guidance.
“It’s tricky but so much fun!” exclaimed one participant with a beaming smile.
Each person made three to four Sasamaki.
Cooking the Local Dish “Imoni”
While the Sasamaki was being boiled by staff, participants moved on to cooking “Imoni,” a beloved local dish.
The lesson was led by the “Tsuruoka FŪDO (Food x Culture) Guides,” certified by the Tsuruoka Food Culture Creative City Promotion Council, which shares insights into the city’s food culture and history.
Imoni is a hearty Japanese soup centered around imo (taro root), a starchy and creamy-textured tuber. This traditional dish is a specialty of Yamagata Prefecture, especially popular in autumn during outdoor gatherings called “imoni-kai.” The soup combines taro with vegetables, meat, and seasonings, with distinct regional variations. In inland areas of Yamagata, imoni is made with beef and soy sauce-based seasoning, while the Shonai region, including Tsuruoka, features a version using pork and miso. The Shonai-style imoni often includes pork, taro, green onions, fried tofu, konnyaku, and shiitake mushrooms. This comforting dish highlights the local flavors and ingredients, making it a beloved part of Yamagata’s food culture. Experienced participants handled the cooking confidently and smoothly.
Between cooking steps, a mini-tour was conducted within FOODEVER, introducing participants to Tsuruoka’s food culture and local sake. The staff of the FŪDO Guide shared stories about Tsuruoka’s diverse geography, cultural heritage, UNESCO recognition, and notable landmarks, such as its four hot spring areas and three Japan Heritage sites. Participants listened intently, gaining a deeper appreciation for how food culture connects with the region’s identity.
A Tasting Experience with Local Rice: Tsuyahime and Yukiwakamaru
Once the Imoni was ready, it was time to taste. Participants enjoyed a luxurious comparison of two local rice brands, Tsuyahime (つや姫) and Yukiwakamaru (雪若丸), in the form of salted rice balls.
Side dishes included local heirloom vegetables such as Minden eggplant (Minden nasu 民田なす), pickled mustard, Atsumi turnips (Atsumi kabu 温海かぶ) grown through slash-and-burn farming, and shiso rolls (Shisomaki しそ巻き), providing a full sampling of Tsuruoka’s culinary culture.
The sake used in cooking the Imoni, “Kochu no Ten (壺中之天),” from Watarai Honten Brewery (渡會本店) in Tsuruoka’s Oyama district, was also served in small tasting portions. It is a junmai daiginjo sake with a fruity and elegant flavor. Using it for cooking feels truly luxurious!
Participants expressed their delight: “Both rice varieties are delicious.” “The taste is so comforting.” “I’d love to bring some home as souvenirs.”
The staff boiled and chilled the Sasamaki, which participants took home as souvenirs.
Unwrapping the bamboo leaves revealed a yellow, jiggly treat. It’s best enjoyed with kinako (roasted soybean flour) or black syrup.
Experience the Charm of Tsuruoka
The culinary experience provided a special opportunity to taste, understand, and connect deeply with the region’s history and way of life. Through this tour, participants not only engaged with agriculture and culinary culture but also enjoyed meaningful exchanges with local residents, gaining a firsthand appreciation of Tsuruoka’s charm.
Various tours and events are held in Tsuruoka City, including those led by “Tsuruoka FŪDO (Food x Culture) Guides,” to showcase its rich food culture and agricultural products. For more information, please check the website below.
Harvest Experience at a Persimmon Farm in Tsuruoka! Agricultural & Culinary Culture Report Vol. 1
Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture is a region rich in nature, surrounded by mountains on three sides and home to the expansive Shonai Plain. With a food culture passed down over centuries, Tsuruoka has been recognized as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. Recently, a six-day, five-night tour focusing on agriculture and culinary culture was held in this culturally rich city. Participants from areas such as Tokyo, Kanagawa, and Chiba enjoyed hands-on harvest experiences at local farms, immersing themselves in Tsuruoka’s unique charm.
Agricultural Experience at a Shonai Persimmon Orchard
The tour included an experience centered on “Shonai persimmons (Shonai gaki 庄内柿),” a specialty of Tsuruoka City. This variety, known as “Hiratanenashi (平核無),” is seedless and characterized by its flat, square shape. Though the flesh is firm, removing the astringency reveals a refreshing sweetness. The original Shonai persimmon tree still stands in Toriimachi, Tsuruoka City, designated as a natural monument.
Participants were divided among several farms for hands-on agricultural activities. At Okabe Farm in Haguro Town, Tsuruoka, Shonai persimmons and other varieties are cultivated. The expansive farm offers a refreshing environment, with participants noting, “Unlike the city, the fresh air and natural surroundings are invigorating!” They embraced the experience of farm work in a setting far removed from their daily lives. Okabe Farm employs a unique cultivation method, spreading the persimmon trees low and wide. During harvest, no lifts are used; ladders allow for easy access to the fruit. Many persimmons are within arm’s reach, making the work accessible.
The harvest involved about six hours of work each day. Unlike simple “fruit picking,” the harvested persimmons were for shipment, requiring serious effort. With strict criteria for selecting persimmons based on color and size, participants received guidance from the farmers and carefully picked suitable fruit. Initially unsure, participants became adept by the final day, skillfully selecting and placing persimmons into baskets. Since the appearance of the fruit is crucial for shipment, each persimmon was handled and packed with care.
Okabe Farm owner Mr. Okabe, who also chairs the Shonai Persimmon Promotion Council, emphasized the importance of meticulous year-round work in producing high-quality fruit. He is committed to improving techniques and ensuring thorough management of branches and fruit. Additionally, he actively supports initiatives like this tour, seeing their potential to address labor shortages and promote local agricultural products.
Many participants were home gardeners or those interested in farming. Feedback included comments such as, “Working at an actual farm was a rare and valuable experience,” “The weather and air were wonderful,” “Harvesting was incredibly fun,” and “I’m happy to contribute to the farm.” Some were repeat participants, drawn back by the joy of previous agricultural experiences. They relished the break from city life, savoring the satisfaction of harvesting amid nature.
During breaks, participants were treated to freshly picked persimmons and La France pears, marveling at their freshness and flavor. While learning about the characteristics and ways to enjoy different varieties, they eagerly tasted the fruits, sparking lively conversations.
The joy of eating fruit they harvested themselves, coupled with the happiness of sharing fresh produce, created a warm and welcoming atmosphere throughout the event. The opportunity to interact with local farmers offered a special experience unique to this tour.
What Tsuruoka’s Agricultural Experience Conveys
The agricultural tour in Tsuruoka is designed not only to showcase local specialties but also to let participants feel the region’s history and culture through hands-on farming activities. In addition to persimmon harvesting, this year’s tours included apple farming experiences. In the past, agricultural experiences featuring cherries in the summer and La France pears in the autumn have been held in Yamagata Prefecture.
For local farmers, these experiences provide not only extra hands but also the chance to cultivate interest in their fruits and build a loyal fan base. Such initiatives highlight the idea that agricultural products are more than just food—they symbolize the region’s nature, culture, and way of life. Many participants leave with a renewed appreciation for these connections.
Various tours and events are held in Tsuruoka City, including those led by “Tsuruoka FŪDO (Food x Culture) Guides,” to showcase its rich food culture and agricultural products. For more information, please check the website below.
Note: Tour schedules are irregular. This article is based on coverage conducted in autumn 2024.
Tsuruoka: An Architectural Hidden Gem Where Tradition and Innovation Meet
Introduction
Nestled in Japan’s snow country, Tsuruoka quietly weaves an architectural narrative that surprises and inspires. In this serene provincial city, some of the world’s most acclaimed architects, including Pritzker Prize laureates, have brought to life innovative projects. Here, amidst rice fields and historic temples, contemporary architecture enters a fascinating dialogue with nature and tradition.
Just an hour by air from Tokyo, Tsuruoka remains largely undiscovered by international visitors, holding remarkable architectural treasures waiting to be explored.
The Architectural Allure of Tsuruoka
A Hub of Pritzker Prize Laureates’ Works
Tsuruoka is home to an impressive concentration of works by Pritzker Prize-winning architects, often considered the “Nobel Prize of Architecture.” Three major projects from these celebrated architects define the city’s unique landscape:
“SHONAI HOTEL SUIDEN TERRASSE” and “KIDS DOME SORAI” by Shigeru Ban (2014 Pritzker Prize)
“Shōgin Tact Tsuruoka” by SANAA (Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa, 2010 Pritzker Prize)
These architects have embraced Tsuruoka’s natural and cultural landscape, using it as a canvas for designs that are both visionary and deeply rooted in context.
Where Tradition Meets Innovation
Tsuruoka presents a rare juxtaposition: the 1,300-year-old national treasure “Five-Story Pagoda of Mt. Haguro” stands alongside pioneering contemporary designs. This city has become a dynamic nexus where traditional building techniques harmonize with cutting-edge technology, giving rise to new forms of architectural expression.
Rooted in Local Culture and Nature
Tsuruoka’s rich natural environment, harsh climate, and unique spiritual heritage are interwoven into its architecture. The resulting structures are not only deeply connected to their locale but also resonate with a universal appeal, demonstrating how architecture can be both contextual and globally relevant.
Must-Visit Structures
Modern Architectural Marvels
SHONAI HOTEL SUIDEN TERRASSE
Designed by Shigeru Ban (2018)
This hotel floats serenely above expansive rice fields, rooted in the Japanese agricultural landscape. Ban’s innovative approach challenges perceptions of the relationship between architecture and landscape, offering guests a unique experience in tune with the changing seasons of rice cultivation.
What makes this project especially captivating is its structural design: rather than a single monolithic building, Ban distributed the 119 rooms across multiple structures using three distinct structural systems. This approach preserves the visual harmony of the rice fields and creates an architectural promenade that allows guests to experience the landscape from various perspectives.
Key Points:
Landscape Integration: A revolutionary approach that enhances and preserves agricultural views
Structural Poetry: Masterful use of mixed structural systems creating visual lightness
Experiential Design: An immersive spatial sequence that connects visitors with Japan’s rural landscape
Visitor’s Note: The scenery transforms dramatically with the seasons—from the vibrant greens of spring planting to the golden hues of harvest. Plan your visit to experience these seasonal shifts.
Located in an academic district filled with historic buildings, universities, and galleries, this multi-purpose cultural complex by Pritzker Prize-winning SANAA reinterprets traditional Japanese architectural wisdom for the modern era.
Conceived as a “hall for the community,” this building invites citizens to participate as audience members, participants, and performers. The large space is wrapped by a corridor inspired by traditional Japanese Saya-dō architecture, which flexibly redefines the boundaries between public and private spaces.
Spatial Composition: A modern interpretation of Japanese architecture with a grand space encircled by a corridor
Functional Design: Vineyard-style seating that fosters an intimate connection between audience and performers
Adaptability: Flexible spatial configuration with movable partitions for professional performances when needed
An educational facility featuring a wooden dome with a diameter of 35.6 meters, this project explores the potential of large-span wooden structures in snow-heavy regions. This unique space balances the flexibility required for early childhood education with advanced architectural innovation, gaining global recognition as a groundbreaking architectural experiment.
Key Points:
Structural Innovation: Achievement of a large-span wooden dome adapted to snowy conditions
Spatial Design: A cohesive open space tailored for early childhood education
Regional Responsiveness: Use of local materials and climate-adapted solutions
Five-Story Pagoda of Mt. Haguro (National Treasure)
Built in 937, rebuilt in the 14th century
Known as the oldest five-story pagoda in the Tohoku region, this national treasure stands within a deep forest, embodying the elegance and technical prowess of traditional Japanese woodworking.
Architectural Significance: One of the oldest wooden structures in the Tohoku region
Construction Technique: Traditional Japanese woodworking methods without the use of nails
Aesthetic Value: Harmonious integration with the surrounding natural environment
Constructed during the Meiji era, this Romanesque-style church uniquely adapted to the Japanese setting. Notable for its “window paintings” and a rare “Black Madonna” statue, it stands as a rare example of East-West architectural fusion.
Cultural Fusion: Romanesque style adapted for Japanese cultural context
Unique Features: Rare “window paintings” and “Black Madonna” statue
Historical Importance: Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan
Architectural Pilgrimage: Why Tsuruoka?
A Hub of World-Class Architecture: Experience multiple works by Pritzker Prize winners in one compact area.
Contextual Design Study: Observe how contemporary architects engage with historical and natural contexts.
Preservation Techniques: Study methods used to maintain centuries-old wooden structures.
A Blend of Urban and Rural Aesthetics: Explore architectural solutions bridging urban and rural sensibilities.
Seasonal Architecture: Experience how buildings transform with Japan’s distinct seasons.
This guide is continuously updated. Last revision: [2024/11/10]
Route to The Land Of DEWA: Easy Access to Tsuruoka by JR Train or Bus from Tokyo, Sendai, Yamagata, and Niigata
Explore Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture with convenient access from major JR stations in Tokyo, Sendai, Yamagata, and Niigata. Whether by train or bus, discover the simple ways to start your journey to this captivating part of Japan. *Information as of November 2024
From TOKYO Station by JR Japan Rail Pass
From Tokyo Station, take the Joetsu Shinkansen “Toki” to Niigata Station (approx. 120 minutes). Then transfer to the Uetsu Main Line limited express “Inaho” to Tsuruoka Station (approx. 110 minutes). Both the “Toki” and “Inaho” trains offer reserved and non-reserved seating.
From Yamagata Station, take either the Shonai Kotsu express bus or the Yamako express bus to the S-MALL Bus Terminal (approx. 115 minutes). The S-MALL Bus Terminal is just a 2-minute walk from JR Tsuruoka Station.
From Sendai Station, take the Shonai Kotsu, Miyagi Kotsu, or Ugo Kotsu express bus to the S-MALL Bus Terminal (approx. 150 minutes). The S-MALL Bus Terminal is just a 2-minute walk from JR Tsuruoka Station. The bus makes rest stops at highway stations.
Tsuruoka: things to see and do around the Dewa Sanzan sacred mountains
Snow Shoe Trekking in Haguro
Discover Mount Haguro’s surroundings like very few have seen before. Discover landscapes that cannot be seen outside winter’s season and without a guide, watch Mt. Haguro’s wildlife in action, and learn about the local mountain vegetables. Meet with our passionate guides recognized by the Ministry of Environment at Gassan Visitor Center, put on the snowshoes available for rental. An interpreter (English/French) can accompany you. The price for 1 person starts from 2000 yen/person (more if interpretation is necessary). On reservation only.
” Walk with Yamabushi ” Journey to Rebirth: Dewa Sanzan
In the middle of Yamagata Prefecture, present-day Tsuruoka City roughly corresponds to ancient Dewa Province. Known as Dewa Sanzan, three peaks clustered here, for more than 1,400 years, have been held sacred. To carry out ascetic practices that increase personal spiritual power, people visit the mountains from the local Shōnai region, from throughout Japan, and from overseas.
Click on the link below to visit the special page for walking with a Yamabushi (mountain priest) on the Dewa Sanzan.
A Dewa Sanzan Yamabushi speaks!Unknown Facts Revealed.
To the center of what used to be Dewa Province (now in Yamagata Prefecture), for more than 1,400 years, from near and far, pilgrims have come seeking spiritual power through hardships on the three mountain peaks called Sanzan. Coming from local Shōnai, from all over Japan and now, from the whole world, on Haguro (414 m), the lowest mountain, pilgrims come to pray for present happiness. On Gassan (1,984 m), adherents exert themselves to atone for past misdeeds, and to comfort departed souls and pray for their rebirth. Practices on Yudono (1,504 m) focus on rebirth into a new life. Dewa Sanzan is a place where you can be reborn.
The three mountains were originally revered by practitioners who seek spiritual strength through rigorous ascetic training. These worshippers are known as yamabushi. Ordinary pilgrims also began to make spiritual journeys here. During the peaceful Edo period (1603–1867), Dewa Sanzan ranked along Ise Grand Shrine as a destination for a once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage.
Even now, from Japan and overseas, the sacred mountains attract many people who come to experience the ancient Japanese spiritual connection with nature.
Yoshizumi-san of Dewa Sanzan Shrine was born and raised in a family that has been running a pilgrim lodge for generations. He is himself a practicing yamabushi: in an interview, he agreed to share some of his extensive knowledge about Dewa Sanzan yamabushi.
Ascetic Training Activates Latent Powers
Q. What kind of people are yamabushi?
A. Yamabushi follow the practices of Shugendō, which holds that self-knowledge and spiritual power can be gained by testing yourself. Combined with ancient Japanese folk beliefs about mountains, Shugendō has drawn on Shinto, Tantric, Taoist, and yin–yang beliefs. The mountain itself is understood to be a manifestation of Buddha or other divine power: ‘yama’ and ‘bushi’ literally mean ‘mountain’ and ‘on all fours’ (as in prayerful prostration).
Traveling around on mountains, yamabushi worship trees, rocks, and other natural objects in which spiritual power dwells. By performing rites, undergoing physical exertion, and other hard-to-endure ordeals, such as exposure to cold waterfalls, yamabushi seek to draw out latent human abilities and increase their spiritual power.
Q. When did yamabushi first appear in Dewa Sanzan?
A. According to legend, after his father Emperor Sushun was assassinated, Prince Hachiko made his way to Dewa Sanzan and devoted the rest of his life to yamabushi rigors on the mountains. That was in 593, over 1,400 years ago. Around this time, En no Ozunu was organizing Shugendō as a doctrine. He is also said to have trained on these three mountains.
Q. Did Dewa Sanzan really once rank alongside Ise Grand Shrine as a place of pilgrimage?
A. The Dewa Sanzan peaks were once held to be the guardian mountains for all the 33 provinces of Eastern Japan, including Musashi where the shogun located his capital Edo. Mt. Gassan enshrines Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto, moon deity and younger sibling of Ise Grand Shrine’s sun goddess Amaterasu Ōmikami. Edo-period guide books even advised that if you make a pilgrimage to the sun, you should also make one to the moon. While the moon may be junior to the sun, Dewa Sanzan was obviously a very popular place of pilgrimage.
Q. Did so many people really walk hundreds of miles from Edo (present-day Tokyo) to get here?
A. Historians estimate that in pre-modern times there were 330 pilgrim lodgings in Dewa Sanzan.
Shugendō has a division of territories into ‘parishes’ called kasumiba. Official pilgrim lodgings in each kasumiba were licensed. For a region extending from Aomori in Northern Honshu down south as far as Edo (Tokyo), these were issued by Jakkō-ji Temple (currently Dewa Sanzan Jinja Shrine) on Mt. Haguro-san.
Q. Haguro-san is supposed to be the abode of tengu. Is there some kind of relationship between yamabushi and tengu?
A. Tengu are, indeed, associated with mountains and mountain beliefs, not only on Haguro-san but also on other mountains sacred to Shugendō, such as Takao-san in Tokyo and Kurama-yama in Kyoto. With their ability to fly among trees and freely manipulate the powers they possess, tengu symbolize the goals of yamabushi. You could say a tengu is what a yamabushi aspires to become.
Uketamō: Acceptance of both hardship and pleasure
Q. Why do yamabushi keep saying “Uketamō”?
A. Uketamō expresses acceptance. Whatever happens, we say, “Yes.” We do not say, “No.” This is our attitude toward the Buddha and towards the spirits of nature. Even if told you will, sometime soon, die, you just accept it. During training some experiences are pleasurable and some are painful, both should be accepted in the spirit of uketamō.
Q. What happens in the initial novice training?
A. I am not allowed to disclose all the details. I can say that it is a type of reincarnation training. After a death ceremony, that is, funerary rites, as a symbolic sperm you enter the ‘womb’ of the mountain and undertake rigors to grow and achieve rebirth.
Mainly, novices walk a circuit on the mountain, pray at assigned places, and participate in rites at the komoridō shrine. On the mountain, you push life to its extremes, for example, by putting off eating and sleeping. This deprivation, revealing hidden reserves, both sharpens your five senses and draws on your latent human powers.
For example, you probably eat rice as a matter of course. When you are really hungry, however, you feel each grain of rice, notice its sweetness, and feel gratitude for the food.
Perhaps the greatest benefit of this training for people today is to make you more greatly appreciate things you take for granted in everyday life. In the past, the concern was more to challenge personal endurance in the hope of gaining special powers.
Q. How can an ordinary person experience yamabushi training?
A. The mountain is seasonally open for guided training. Currently, this is limited to three times a year. The autumn peak training is probably best suited to novices who want to release latent power and increase their spiritual resilience.
Participation is limited to men in good health whose families also consent. Documents must be submitted. The hall where rites are held can only hold 150 people and there may be as many as 400 applicants for autumn peak training. If there are more applicants than places, final selection will be made by oracle in front of the altar or by lottery.
Q. How about women and people from overseas?
A. In the old days, women were not allowed on the mountain. Times have changed, however, and miko shugyō women-only training is held during the time of autumn peak training. Basically, they seclude themselves in a mountain temple and undergo austerities.
While it may seem strange that people brought up in monotheistic traditions could be attracted to Shugendō, a doctrine in which seemingly divergent beliefs coexist in harmony, many people from North America and Europe have already undergone training. Instruction is by example and language is unimportant. Just go with the flow: uketamō (accept) is the only word you need to know.
Q. What do yamabushi eat?
Out on the mountain, yamabushi abstain from meat and fish. We eat simple shōjin ryōri style vegetarian food. A typical meal would be a bowl of soup and a vegetarian dish. In everyday life, unless a Buddhist monk who has dietary restrictions, yamabushi can eat whatever they like.
On Mt. Haguro, food is consumed with the intention of receiving the spirit of the mountain. While it is possible to get all the protein the body needs in food foraged from the mountain, it is not what you would call luxurious. When undertaking a hundred-day austerity on the mountain, people who normally eat plenty of meat and fish find they feel weak for the first few weeks. Once the body adjusts to the diet, however, they can move with accustomed vigor. This reveals latent potential and demonstrates the merit of a vegetarian diet.
Suri: Absorbing Natural Energy through Clothing
Q. Why do yamabushi wear white clothing?
A. White signifies an unblemished state of purity. For example, newborns are swaddled in white, and white was also used for wrapping the bodies of the dead. White is the color of rebirth.
Practitioners of Haguro Shugendō associate Mt. Haguro with the present, Mt. Gassan with the past, and Mt. Yudono with the future. While climbing the three peaks in the Sankan Sando circuit, appropriate to rebirth as a new soul while living, pilgrims wear white.
Over the white clothing, yamabushi wear a garment called suri-goromo [rubbing garment]. In some places, the outer garment bears plant motifs recalling the original material, which included layers of leaves from different trees. Depending on local traditions with their different Buddhist and Shinto influences, the patterns and colors vary by parish. Haguro yamabushi wear a checkered suri-goromo. To better absorb natural energy from the mountain, the wearer rubs this outer layer on objects such as rocks and trees.
Q. What is that rope thing that some yamabushi have?
A. Only in Dewa Sanzan do yamabushi have oshime ropes. It is a highly abbreviated version of the ceremonial garb called kamishimo. The purpose of the rope is to purify the body and create a sacred precinct around the wearer, a barrier that prevents the entry of evil spirits that may be lurking on the mountain.
During your trip to Dewa Sanzan, I believe that your body will feel more braced if you wear an oshime. It will make a good trip better. In former times, the housekeepers in the pilgrim lodgings made them for pilgrims coming to the kasumiba parish. Now, they are given to anyone who climbs all 2,446 stone steps up Haguro-san and are taken home as souvenirs.
Yamabushi and their Conch Shells
Q. I see yamabushi carrying conch shells. What purpose do they serve?
They were originally used for signaling. Yamabushi often carried out their activities alone on the mountain. Depending on how the shell was blown, the sound might warn others of imminent danger or summon yamabushi to a gathering.
Gradually, the conch came to be used for exorcism and to ward off evil. This use is not limited to yamabushi and, in some places overseas, they are even used as musical instruments. Along with animal horns, shells are precursors of modern wind instruments.
Q. Conches live in the South Seas. How did yamabushi get them?
A. At Kumano near the southern tip of Wakayama Prefecture, there is a famous waterfall and mountains that attracted yamabushi. The coastal waters there are semitropical and conches are thought to have spread from Kumano via a loose nationwide network of yamabushi. Even though there was rivalry and sometimes conflict between groups, it seems that yamabushi ultimately respected each other.
Q. How hard is it to blow a conch shell?
A. It certainly isn’t easy! If you have played a brass instrument, you can get good at it more quickly. Even so, conch shells are blown in a completely different way. For most wind instruments, without puffing up the cheeks, you engage both lips and blow directly into the tube. To get a sound out of a conch, you have to puff out your cheeks and blow from the side. I used to play a wind instrument and it took me a few months to get predictable sounds. Some people take as long as a year.
Near a Yamabushi You Can Feel Closer to What Is Divine
Q. Is it OK to talk to yamabushi?
A. When in training, interaction is not welcomed. During training, however, a yamabushi is unlikely to be in a place where lay people normally venture. Since preaching is also part of training, if you encounter a yamabushi, please feel free to talk to them. You will find, however, that most are not very talkative.
If you walk a while with a yamabushi, you will feel closer to nature and closer to the gods and the Buddha. I believe that as many people as possible should, through contact with yamabushi, get a greater appreciation of nature and the importance of simply feeling grateful.
Courtesy of interviewee, Mr. Yoshizumi of Dewa Sanzan Shrine.
Experience the Ishidan Stone Step Pilgrimage! Be Reborn in Mind and Body at Mount Haguro
The 2,446 stone steps along Mount Haguro’s approach – on the Ishidan Stone Step Pilgrimage(石段詣 Ishidanmoude), you climb these steps wearing a white sash. Walking surrounded by mystical cedar trees refreshes the mind and body! We went to experience this “journey of rebirth”!
Mount Gassan(月山), Mount Haguro(羽黒山), and Mount Yudono(湯殿山) in the city of Tsuruoka, Yamagata, were designated as sacred 1,400 years ago. Called Dewa Sanzan(出羽三山), these three mountains represent the past, present, and future. Going around to all three allows you to be spiritually reborn while still alive. In the Edo period, doing this spread among commoners as a “journey of rebirth” of the present, past, and future.
The Ishidan Stone Step Pilgrimage is a worship plan allowing anyone to easily experience this “journey of rebirth.” You climb the steps while wearing a white sash(注連 Shime), for an experience unavailable nowhere else.
There are 2,446 steps, which take about an hour and a half to climb, so wear easy-to-walk-in clothes that can absorb sweat. Sneakers or hiking shoes are also recommended.
First is registration. Located at the foot of Mount Haguro’s foot, the Zuishinmon Gate(随神門) reception office. Here is where you complete the procedures for the Ishidan Stone Step Pilgrimage.
Scan the QR code and register your email address. To ensure that the process can be accomplished smoothly, check beforehand whether you can scan QR codes with your smartphone.
*The QR Code link is in Japanese as of February 2024. Please use automatic translation.
After email registration, receive your white sash. The sash signifies a boundary, and is said to originally have been used to prevent haunting by evil mountain spirits.
*A fee of 1,000 yen is required to visit the shrine with white sash.Also, this reception period is from late April to mid-November. Even if there is no white sash outside of the period, worship itself is possible.However, if you visit in winter, be aware that the footing can be slippery and dangerous.
Enishi-himo cords are sold at Zuishinmon and Sanshuden (summit) reception offices. These are colorful cords that can be tied to the white sash. They are blessed, of course, so they bring benefits!
These are 200 yen each, so you’ll want them all! Tie them on with your wishes for a personalized blessed sash.
Wear the sash around your neck, and you’re good to go!
Pass through Zuishinmon, the shrine domain entrance, marking the start. Along the approach are many shrines. Locations are marked on the map you can receive during registration, so if you have the time, visit each one for maximum blessings!
The route involving climbing from the foot to the summit to worship is recommended, but if stamina is a concern, you can first travel by bus or car to the summit to register and pay your respects, and then descend the stone steps on foot at your own pace. You can also register at Sanshuden at the summit.
Pass Zuishinmon Gate, then descend Mamakozaka slope(継子坂) to the red bridge over Haraigawa River(祓川) called Shinkyo Bridge(神橋), which marks the boundary between the sacred mountains and the secular world. People are said to have purified themselves in this river before worship long ago. The Suga Falls(須賀の滝) dropping into the Haraigawa River are magnificent!
Near the ancient sugi cedar tree stands the National Treasure Five-storied Pagoda, which worksite rebuilt about 600 years ago and is said to be the oldest in the Tohoku region. Its solemn presence amidst cedar trees is awe-inspiring. Its beauty has earned it two Michelin stars.
The path is flat up to this point, but here the ascent on a slope called Ichinosaka(一の坂) begins. Gird yourself and steadily climb each stone step! The 2,446 stone steps and rows of 350- to 500-year-old cedar trees have been recognized with three Michelin Green Guide stars. The quietness and cedar scent make this place quite mystical!
You’re already short of breath – it’s quite the climb, and you may be sweating slightly, too. Reaching the top of the Ichinosaka slope brings brief respite, but then you immediately confront the precipitous slope called Ninosaka(二の坂). The sudden steepness is daunting! The longest and steepest section of the approach, Ninosaka is also called Abura-koboshi (油溢し”oil-spill slope”), as legend holds that the warrior monk Musashibo Benkei spilled sacred oil offered here due to the slope’s severity. This slope may be a trial.
This is truly grueling! It may even have you dripping sweat, just like with actual mountain-climbing. Rest periodically and proceed slowly at your own pace.
After you manage to crest Ninosaka, an oasis appears as your reward! This is the Ninosaka Teahouse(二の坂茶屋)! How could you not stop here to rest your legs?
The Takagi family operating the teahouse climbs these steps daily to make homemade rice cakes and green tea for visitors. What a welcome treat! From the teahouse you can see the panoramic Shonai Plain, a breathtaking sight. One could just sit and forget the passage of time.
These are signature mortar-pounded rice cakes(力餅/Chikara-mochi). Just let the sweetness permeate your tired body. Feel power restored! “Chikara” means “strength,” and these are truly strength-restoring rice cakes.
Rejuvenated and ascending Sannosaka after overcoming Ninosaka, your mood is sure to lighten. You’re almost there.
Midway up the slope of Sannosaka(三の坂) sits Haniyamahime Jinja(埴山姫神社), a shrine dedicated to matchmaking. Here, one prays for good relationships – these stone steps are full of blessings!
The Haniyamahime Jinja Shrine talismans sold at the Zuishinmon at the foot and Sanshuden at the summit include a red cord. Tying this around the shrine’s grate while praying is held to bring great fortune. May you have the best of luck with romance!
You’ve climbed this far, and you’re nearly at the goal! Before the summit sits Saikan(斎館). Here you can enjoy shojin Buddhist vegetarian cuisine that has a long history at Mount Haguro. The dishes look beautiful, too, and make for a deeply soothing experience. They’re surprisingly filling and sure to satisfy your stomach! The cuisine is by reservation only, so plan ahead if you want to visit after paying your respects at the shrines.
You’ve finished climbing the steps! Pass under the large torii, and you’re at the summit!
You’ve reached at the summit! Before your eyes lies Sanjingosaiden(三神合祭殿), where the deities of Gassan Jinja, Dewa Jinja, and Yudono Jinja shrines are sanctified. Pay your respects to them here together to receive “journey of rebirth” blessings.
After paying your respects, proceed to Sanshuden(参集殿). Report your finish to the staff and complete the procedures. Now you’ve achieved your goal of completing the Ishidan Stone Step Pilgrimage! You’ve succeeded in climbing the stone steps and paying your respects at the shrines!
At the summit are many shrines, including Hachiko Jinja(蜂子神社), dedicated to Prince Hachiko(蜂子皇子). Leisurely exploring the grounds and paying your respects at each is recommended.
Your legs may be tired, but your mind is clear and refreshed. You might feel a large sense of accomplishment at having climbed to the top on your own and paid your respects, experiencing the “journey of rebirth.”
Focusing wholly on making your first ascent may have left no attention for the many shrines along the approach. There are 33 pictures carved into the steps as well – maybe on your second and third visits you can pay your respects at these shrines while climbing slowly, and looking for the pictures as you hike. Beautiful fresh greenery in spring and summer and lovely autumn foliage make visits enjoyable throughout the seasons. You’ll definitely want to take up the challenge again!
Yutagawa’s Ume Matsuri
Yutagawa Onsen’s Plum Park boasts over 300 plum trees. At the Plum Blossom Festival, you’ll encounter the village’s women and grandmas, eager to offer you a cup of green tea along with their homemade manju cakes (cakes filled with sweet adzuki bean paste). This delightful festival is open to everyone, and the food offerings typically range from 300 to 600 yen.
Tsuruoka Sakura Matsuri : Tsuruoka’s Cherry Blossom Festival
The Tsuruoka Sakura Matsuri, or Cherry Blossoms Festival, takes place in Tsuruoka Park, recognized as one of the 100 most beautiful cherry blossom spots in Japan. Throughout the festival, visitors have the opportunity to indulge in delicious eats and enjoy various activities at the dozen stalls set up for the occasion, surrounded by the breathtaking backdrop of 730 cherry trees in the park.
This event spans the entire blooming season, lasting for a duration of two weeks. It’s a wonderful time for locals and visitors alike to immerse themselves in the beauty of cherry blossoms and partake in the festivities.
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