The Ogisai Festival is the most prominent Noh theatrical representation of the year. It dates from 806 and is performed by the servants of the Kasuga Shrine in Kushibiki village. Ogisai 王祇祭 means: “the Festival in honor of the Ogi.” The Ogi 王祇 or 扇 is a giant paper fan that represents the terrestrial forces. During the first part of the festival, the fan is kept closed as a phallic symbol representative of the male energy. After the first incantations chanted by the shrines’ servants, the servant unfolds the fan to look like female parts, signifying female power. It is kept that way throughout the entirety of the performance. The alliance of the two positions is a representation of the yin-yang harmony. In the early part of the festival, a small child before six years of age comes to recite incantations and repeatedly stomp the ground. The steps of a pure child are thought to awaken the Earthly deities. Then, the Noh theater performances begin and last the following morning. When participating in the Ogisai festival, you are also invited to eat the ceremonial dinner before the play inside the toya 当屋, the annex to Kasuga Shrine.
Mt. Atsumi’s Pilgrimage
Atsumi is said to have been founded by the creator of Shugendo himself: En no Gyoja. Walk upon its sacred Shugendo paths.
Distance
10.5km
Elevation
720meters
Required Time
5h
Danger level
Caution advised *Dangers include:Bear presence, Heat strokes, Slippery slopes, Slippery when raining, Fallen trees
Difficulty level (for beginners)
Moderate
Equipment needed
● Water ● Hiking shoes ● Rainwear ● Sun hat ● Hiking sticks ● Food or snacks
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.
1. This sign tells you where to start your pilgrimage
2. Continue straight
3. You get a view on Atsumi Onsen
4. You step inside the forest
5. Continue straight
6. There is a map in Japanese of the surroundings
7. Fill in your water bottles at the Kowa springs
8. Kowa Shimizu (Kowa Springs)
9. Cross the bridge at the Ichinotaki falls
10. Turn right at this sign
11. Don’t forget to write down your name
12. Get inside the forest
13. Cross the bridge
14. Continue straight
15. Cross another bridge
16. Spot the “Encounter falls”
The Deai no taki 出会いの滝 designates two falls that join in the same stream, making them look like lovers.
17. Climb the ladder
18. Cross another bridge
19. Climb the stairs
20. Spot the Sanno Falls
21. Use this spring to fill in your bottles
22. After a while, you arrive at the Kumano Shrine
23. A little further, Mt. Atsumi’s viewpoint
24. Go down
25. The tracks are narrow and some trees have fallen
Please be very careful when doing down the route.
26. Come across the Babasugi
“Grandma cedar”
27. Buddhist stele
28. This sign indicates you are near the end
29. This spring is the last spot of this hiking trail
Otsukaresama deshita! お疲れ様でした！”Congratulations for your efforts!”
Mt. Kinbo’s Pilgrimage
Dewa Sanzan is not the only sacred place of Shugendo in Tsuruoka. Discover another sacred Yamabushi place around Yutagawa Onsen.
● Water ● Hiking shoes ● Rainwear ● Sun hat ● Hiking sticks ● Food or snacks
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.
1. Start at Yutagawa Onsen
2. Go to Fujisawa hamlet
3. Cross Fujisawa’s ricefields
4. You walk past Fujisawa’s temple
5. Follow the paved road
6. After passing the bamboo forest, you find this sign.
Please attach your bear bell to your gear before going further.
7. Follow the road in the middle of the bamboo forest
8. You spot the Kinbo Shrine torii gate
9. Enter the hiking trail
10. The vegetation is wild
11. It is hot during summer, make frequent stops
12. Continue climbing
13. Make sure your bear makes sound
14. Landslides lead tree to fall. Climb them.
15. Continue straight
16. You get out of the forest
17. You spot steles
18. You enter a forest again
19. Cross the dirt road to continue
Be careful to the cars that might be crossing on the dirt road.
20. The slope gets steeper
21. Viewpoint on Shonai plains
22. Another dirt road used by car crosses the road
23. Mountain toilet
Use if necessary
24. Mt. Kinbo’s viewpoint on Shonai Plains
25. This is the Gakkôzaka
26. Continue to Kinbozan Shrine
27. Kinbozan Shrine
28. Kinbozan Shrine
29. Go back to the dirt road but take the other direction this time
30. You are in a cedar forest
31. After some time, you come across this cave
This cave has been hosting life since the Jomon era.
32. Fallen trees on your way
33. Bamboo forest
34. From there, continue going straight to go back to Yutagawa Onsen
Hike from Mt. Gassan to Mt. Yudono
Also called “The Realm of the Dead”, or “The Mountain of the Past”, Mt. Gassan is the most important step in the Dewa Sanzan’s yamabushi training.
Distance
5.1km
Elevation
-1130meters
Required Time
2.3h
Danger level
Dangerous *Dangers include:Slippery slopes, Snow, Heat strokes, Slippery when raining, Snow (risks of slipping), Strong winds, Ladders
Difficulty level (for beginners)
Hard
Equipment needed
● Water ● Hiking shoes ● Rainwear ● Sun hat ● Hiking sticks ● Snow grips (especially in July) ● Food or snacks
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.
1. Go behind the Gassan Chojo Goya lodge
2. A sign indicates the direction you have to follow
This direction is called: “Yudonosan Ubasawa hômen 湯殿山姥沢方面”
3. Do Not turn left at this point
If you turn left, you will arrive at Hijiori.
4. Do not turn left
Turning left will bring you to Hondôji temple.
5. You spot this stele with a haiku written on it
6. You start your descent
7. This metallic map indicates the position of every mountain in the surroundings
8. Find the Kaji Inari shrine
9. The view from Kaji gakkô
10. Continue going down
11. Ushikubi crossing. Continue straight
12. Approaching Kanauba
13. It’s still straight ahead!
14. Turn right at the Kanauba crossing
15. You should be arriving onto a track with wild vegetation
16.After a while, you arrive by a river
17. The vegetation is getting wild
18. You’re approaching Mt. Yudono
19. If you spot this stone monument, you’re on the right way
20. You arrive at the Shozokuba emergency lodge
21. You need to turn right to go to Mt. Yudono
22. Do NOT turn left
If you turn left, you’ll arrive at Shizu Onsen.
23. Appreciate the view on Yudono before getting into the jungle
24. You are approaching the Gakkôzaka slope
25. This is the Gakkôzaka
This is the most dangerous part of the trail. Several ladders allow you to go down to Mt. Yudono. But be careful: it can be very slippery especially after the rain.
26. Go down with extra caution
27. Another ladder
28. Yes, it’s another ladder
29. This is what it looks like from below.
30. Rest assured: no more ladder from this point
31. Mt. Yudono’s purification ritual post
32. Yudonosan shrine
You need to take the purification prayer (500 yen/person) to get access to the shrine.
33. Shuttle bus stop & souvenir shop
The shuttle bus stop costs 200 yen (one-way) or 300 yen (round trip) to go back to Yudonosan Senninzawa.
34. Yudonosan Kyukeijo
This is where the shuttle bus will drop you. You can use the toilet or have some food, drinks, or buy souvenirs here. The parking lot in front of the shop also serves as a bus stop for the bus bound for Tsuruoka station (only operates during a limited period of time).
35. Yudonosan Senninzawa
This is Mt. Yudono’s torii gate.
Hike to the top of Mt. Gassan
Also called “The Realm of the Dead”, or “The Mountain of the Past”, Mt. Gassan is the most important step in the Dewa Sanzan’s yamabushi training.
Distance
5.5km
Elevation
600meters
Required Time
2.5h
Danger level
Several dangers *Dangers include:Slippery slopes, Unstable rocks, Snow (risks of slipping), Low temperatures, Strong winds
Difficulty level (for beginners)
Challenging
Equipment needed
● Water ● Hiking shoes ● Rainwear ● Sun hat ● Hiking sticks ● Snow grips (especially in July)
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.
1. Get off the bus at Gassan Hachigôme
Gassan Hachigôme 月山八合目 can be translated into “Mt. Gassan’s eight station”. It is the most convenient point to start climbing the mountain. The building on the picture is Gassan Resthouse. You can buy rain gear, hats, food or drinks here.
2. Have a view on the Shonai plains
If the weather is not too cloudy, you can see the extent of the Shonai region, up to Sakata city and Mt. Chôkai.
3. Toilet
These are the public toilet at the bottom of Mt. Gassan. Use them if needed, but do not forget to leave a tip to help maintain the place.
4. The first crossing
If you take left, you follow the classic Mt. Gassan climbing track. If you take right, you will cross the Midahara pilgrim lodge.
5. This is what the classic Gassan climbing track looks like
6. If you turn back, you can spot Mt. Chokai and Midahara pilgrim lodge
7. Second crossing
Take left if you want to go to Midahara’s pilgrim lodge and shrines, or take right to continue your adventure to the top of Mt. Gassan.
8. The wooden track ends
The track is now entirely made of rocks. Some are unstable, please watch your steps.
9. Midagahara marshes from afar
10. Balanced stones
11. Native flowers
12.Native flowers
13. Continue straight
14. You arrive at Busshoike Goya
This is a pilgrim lodge & café. You need to buy a little something to use the space to rest.
15. Busshoike pond’s statues
16.The jibokannon bodhisattva
17. Manai shrine
18. Climb the rocks
19. Gyojagaeshi slope
Continue straight or make a little detour on your right to arrive to Manai shrine
20. Manai Shrine
21. Continue straight
22. Take a rest or continue straight
23.
24. Go back on the wooden track
Those wooden tracks indicate you are near to Mt. Gassan’s summit.
25. Balanced stones near Mt. Gassan’s highest point
26. You spot Gassan’s peak
27. The building on this picture belongs to Gassan shrine
28. This is what the Gassan Shrine complex looks like
29. Here is the Gassan Chojo Goya lodge
30. Public toilet
Hike to the top of Mt. Haguro
Climb the 2446 steps within the cedar forests that received 3 stars in the Green Michelin Guide.
Distance
3.5km
Elevation
310meters
Required Time
1.2h
Danger level
Rather safe *Dangers include:Heat strokes, Slippery when raining
Difficulty level (for beginners)
Moderate
Equipment needed
● Water ● Hiking shoes or sneakers ● Rainwear or umbrella
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.
1. Start climbing from Zuishinmon
To come by bus from the Station, get on the bus bound for Hagurosan 羽黒山行き in front of the station (Tsuruoka ekimae 鶴岡駅前) at the bus stop n°1 バスのりば①, and get off the bus at Haguro Zuishinmon 羽黒随神門.
2. Beyond this point is the start of Haguro’s steps
2446 stone steps are waiting for you. Make sure to bring enough water with you.
3. Go down the Mamako-zaka
Go down the Mamakozaka 継子坂, to arrive at the Haraikawa shrines 祓川. This place is the metaphor of hell in Dewa Sanzan’s Shugendo practices.
4. On your right, you will find the Suga Falls
The Suga falls 須賀の滝 are where the yamabushi priests of the Dewa Sanzan shrine accomplish the Omisogi cleansing ritual in late March.
5. A little bit further, on your left, is Grandpa Cedar
Grandpa Cedar (Jiji-sugi 爺杉) is a Natural National Monument that has more than 1000 years old.
6. A little further, yo will find the Five-Storied Pagoda
A National Treasure.
7. Continue climbing
This is what the Oibunseki 追分石 looks like.
8. Continue
9. You will arrive at the Ninosaka slope
The Ninosaka 二ノ坂 slope is the steepest part of Mt. Haguro’s hike.
10. You can rest at Ninosaka Teahouse
Ninosaka Chaya 二ノ坂茶屋 is a teahouse that proposes tea, mochi cakes (chikara mochi 力餅), drinks and souvenirs. Please buy a little something if you wish to use the teahouse to rest.
11. Continue hiking
12.On your left, an ancient graveyard
A giant cedar tree divided in two trunks marks the spot of an ancient graveyard. It is authorized to visit and take pictures, but please remain respectful of the place when visiting.
13. Graveyard
14. Ancient Buddhist statues
15. Ancient Buddhist statues
16.In front of the graveyard, the Izanagi shrine
17. The Izanagi shrine ruins and its torii
18. Continue hiking
19. A little further, on your right, the path to Minamidani.
It takes 15 minutes to arrive to Minami dani’s ruins.
20. If you followed the path to Minamidani, you arrive to the lake
Minami-dani is the place where the poet Matsuo Basho retreated during his visit of Mt. Haguro to write haïkus. Go back to the path you came by to go back to Mt. Haguro’s hiking trail.
21. After climbing the Sannosaka, you arrive at the Haniyamahime Shrine
This shrine binds couples for eternity and boosts the couples’ fertility.
22. A little further, on your left: Saikan
Saikan can serve shojin-ryori for lunch (on reservation) and also proposes lodging for the night.
23. Saikan’s entrance
24. A little further, the top of Mt. Haguro
When you have arrived to the big thatched-roof shrine (Sanjingosaiden), your hike has ended. Otsukaresama deshita! お疲れ様でした! (“congratulations for your efforts!”)
25. You can rest inside Sanshuden
Sanshuden 参集殿 is free to access for everybody who wish to rest. You can find drinks, amulets and a museum (free) inside.
26. If you continue straight: the Dewa Sanzan Museum
Further this point, you will arrive at Hagurosan Sancho’s parking lot, where you will also find food stands, souvenir shops and toilets.
Rokujurigoe-Kaido: From the Nanatsu falls to Yudono
The final step before reaching Mt. Haguro through the Rokujurigoe-Kaido pilgrim trail.
● Water ● Hiking shoes ● Rainwear ● Sun hat ● Hiking sticks ● Food or snacks
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100
1. Locate the Nanatsu Falls
The Nanatsu Falls are located up a small village called Tamugimata 田麦俣. You can recognize Tamugimata by its thatched-roof houses like the Tasôminka 多層民家. If you come by bus, get off the bus at Tamugimata bus stop 田麦俣バス停. Walk up the waterfalls for 15 minutes from there.
You can recognize the start of the trial at the flag floating around. Don’t forget to write your name in the notebook inside the little wooden house. It will help us rescue you if needed. You need a bear bell from here.
3. Enter the wild forest
4. The forest continues
5. You enter a cedar forest
Make sure your bear bell is making enough noise before entering here.
6. Follow the path in the cedar forest
7. You arrive at the Kobo Chaya
The Kobo Chaya 弘法茶屋 are the ruins of a teahouse where Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism is said to have stayed during his trip here.
8. (Optional) Go further this point to find the Kobo Spring
Fill your water bottle here. The Kobo Spring (弘法清水) is said to have been found by Kobo Daishi himself.
9. Follow a path to the beech forest
You leave the cedar forest to enter the beech tree forest.
10. You spot the Dragon God Beech Tree
11. Follow the Tsukanara
Follow the path called Tsukanara 塚なら.
12. Get out of the forest
At some point, you will leave the forest to find a paved road. If you feel unwell, do not go further and seek help to return to the city. If you feel well enough, take the elevated bridge to go back to the forest.
13. You come across a detour road
14. Follow the path inside the beech forest
15. There is another detour road
16. You come across this sign
The sign says: “Rokujurigoe Kaido: the pilgrimage to Mt. Yudono” 六十里越街道：「ゆどの道」
17. Spot the “Lovey-dovey beeches”
Those trees are connected by one branch, making them look like two lovers holding hands, hence their name: “the Lovey-Dovey Beeches” (Raburabuna ラブラブナ)
18. You come across this Buddhist stele
19. You arrive to the Dokko Chaya
Use the portable toilet if needed.
20. Use the portable toilet.
21. Buddhist statues next to the
If you follow the path to the Dokko Springs 独鈷清水, you will find these Buddhist statues that got their heads severed during the Buddhist purge in the 19th century.
22. Spot this sign to the Senju Buna tree
23. Arrive at the Senju Buna Tree
Senju Buna 千手ブナ means: “The Thousand-Handed Beech tree”.
24. Arrive at the Kohonogi Beech Tree Tunnel
You arrive at the Kohonogi 小堀抜: The “Small Beech Tree Tunnel”.
25. Follow the Ohonogi Beech Tree Tunnel
A little further from the Kohonogi is the Ohonogi 大堀抜: the “Big Beech Tree Tunnel”.
26. Follow the path
27. You arrive at an intersection
Both paths lead to the same end.
28. You arrive at the Hosogoe rest area
Hosogoe-toge 細越峠 is recognizable by its logs and stela.
29. Have a view on Mt. Yudono
This spot is called Yudonosan Yôhaijo 湯殿山遥拝所
30. Spot the wild flowers on trees
31. Follow the descending slope
32.You exit the forest
33. A sign indicates the Sasagoya Ruins
There was once a thatch-roofed teahouse here, but the lack of pilgrims through the years had it close down. Now, only the logs are remaining.
34. A sign indicates the steles of Churenji & Dainichibo temples
35. Cross the bridge
36. You are getting near Mt. Yudono
This stele worships Mt. Yudono’s gods.
37. Follow the narrow road to Mt. Yudono
38. After this slope, you’ll arrive to a paved road
39. Cross the road to climb the final path to Mt. Yudono
Be careful to approaching cars & buses!!
40. Climb the “Repentance Slope”
The Zange-zaka ザンゲ坂 (“The Repentance Slope”) is the final step to Mt. Yudono. It is a bit steep, so brace yourselves.
41. You can spot Yudono’s torii gate
42. You arrive at Yudonosan Senninzawa
This is the end of your hike to Mt. Yudono. You can take it further by following the Yamabushi path, only if you are guided by a Yamabushi monk/priest.
Rokujurigoe-Kaido: From Honmyoji to Churenji
The starting point of the Rokujurigoe-Kaido pilgrimage to Mt. Yudono.
Distance
6.5km
Elevation
500meters
Required Time
2.3h
Danger level
Rather safe *Dangers include:Bear presence
Difficulty level (for beginners)
Easy
Equipment needed
● Water ● Hiking shoes ● Rainwear ● Sun hat ● Hiking sticks ● Food or snacks
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.
1. Start at Honmyoji Temple. This is what it looks like from below the stairs
To go to Kami Matsune by bus, take the bus bound for Ochiai 落合, and get off at Kami Matsune’s bus sop 上松根バス停. Locate the torii gate for Hachiman Shrine 八幡神社.
2. Announce yourself inside the building if you wish to visit the mummy
Rokujurigoe-Kaido: From Dainichibo Temple to the Nanatsu Falls
Leave the mummies village to go back to the Rokujurigoe-Kaido forests.
Distance
4km
Elevation
160meters
Required Time
1.5h
Danger level
Caution advised *Dangers include:Bear presence
Difficulty level (for beginners)
Easy
Equipment needed
● Water ● Hiking shoes ● Rainwear ● Sun hat ● Hiking sticks
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100
3. You spot this stele that indicates the location of the Odan no sugi
4. The giant stele on the left indicates the presence of the Odan no Sugi
5. You see the Odan no Sugi
6. Odan no sugi
The Odan no sugi 皇壇ノ杉 is a giant cedar tree which age is estimated beyond 1000 years old. It is said Emperor Keiko’s son is buried under the tree.
7. Go for Dainichibo’s graveyard
8. Dainichibo’s graveyard
9. Follow the paved road
10. A sign tells you the direction to go to go to Tamugimata village
11. Follow the path
12. You enter a beech forest
13. Continue
14. You arrived at the Sainotoge
The Sainotoge 塞ノ峠 ruins are those of a former pilgrim teahouse that was once thriving. This is the proof of the popularity the Rokujurigoe-kaido had among the pilgrims at the time.
15. Follow straight
16. You arrive at a pond
17. Follow the dirt road on the left
18. You come by this flag.
19. Below is the village of Tamugimata
20. Follow the path to Tamugimata village
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21. You arrive by a road. This sign indicates a spring that is not for use anymore.
22. Further, the NanakamadoTei inn.
Stay here if it’s late or if you want to have lunch.
23. Cross the road
Soon you’ll arrive by a river
24. A stele tells you you’re in the right direction
25. You cross a river
26. Soon, you arrive at a village with two big thatch-roofed houses.
This is Tamugimata village. Follow the path up the village to find the next entrance to the Rokujurigoe-kaido pilgrim trail.
27. After a while, you come by the Arikoshizaka entrance
This is the entrance you will need to take to get to Mt. Yudono. But we suggest you take a look at the Nanatsu falls before heading for the last step of the pilgrimage.
28. A little further the Arikoshizaka: the Nanatsu Falls
One of Japan’s 100 most beautiful waterfalls.
Rokujurigoe-Kaido: From Churenji to Dainichibo Temple
The road that connects two of the most important temples in Mt. Yudono’s history, each entombing a Sokushinbutsu mummy.
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100
Japan Heritage (in Japanese: Nihon-isan 日本遺産) is a new cultural legacy designation system, apart from the already existing National Property designation system, that aims to protect the concepts and stories that are anchored into Japan’s history and traditional culture. There are in total 8 Japan Heritages registered as of February 2021 in the Tohoku Region, and Tsuruoka boasts 3 of them, which are:
Dewa Sanzan, one of the Three Main Sacred Sites of Shugendo in Japan (日本三大修験道), has been existing for more than 1400 years. The Dewa Sanzan Yamabushi practice has been ongoing for all those centuries without discontinuing. Everybody is accepted and invited to learn about the essence of Dewa Sanzan’s Yamabushi way of thinking: the “uketamo” (ウケタモウ), literally: “I accept”. Accomplishing the pilgrimage of the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa : Mt. Haguro, Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono is said to make the pilgrim access “spiritual rebirth”.
The Samurai Silk designates the silk produced in the Shonai region after the Shonai Clan’s surrender, an event that marks the end of the Boshin War in 1868 and the new government of the Meiji Period. After the Boshin War, the Shonai Clan, the last to have surrendered to the new government, was considered a renegade. To wash their former clan’s honor and prove their value, the former samurais wished to participate in developing the new government’s economics by specializing themselves in silk farming. The government allowed them to do so and let them build the Matsugaoka Silk Farms. The samurais controlled every step of the silk production: from silkworm breeding to the final products’ manufacture.
The Kitamaebune Maritime Road departed from Hokkaidô down to Osaka, running along the coast of the sea of Japan from the Early 18th Century to the Early 20th Century. The merchants of the Kitamaebune 北前船, literally: “the boats from the North” (a combination of the words kitamae 北前 that used to designate the Sea of Japan, and fune 船: the boats), followed that shipping route from ports to ports, importing rare goods from the South to the North (and vice-versa) to resell them at a higher price to the following harbor. Merchants who ventured on the dangerous Sea of Japan risked their lives, hoping for a better life. The tremendous benefits made by the Kitamaebune merchants benefitted a lot of small coastal cities. In Tsuruoka, this is particularly noticed in the castle town, with the construction of rich merchant houses and the flourishing of Zenpoji Temple thanks to the sailors’ donations. There are 45 port cities in 16 different Japanese prefectures that are registered in the Japan Heritage Kitamaebune’s Maritime Road registry.
According to legend—as it is told in the manuscript Haguro’s Origins (羽黒山縁起), written in 1644—Mt. Haguro was discovered by a mysterious prince named Nojo Taishi 能除太子 (also known as Prince Hachiko) in 593.
What do we know about Prince Hachiko?
Prince Hachiko 蜂子皇子 was born in 542. His father, the Emperor Sushun 崇峻天皇, was assassinated by a jealous rival by the name of Soga no Umako 蘇我馬子, in 592. Following his cousin’s advice, Prince Shotoku Taishi, Hachiko decided to flee the capital in search of a sacred Buddhist mountain where he could pray for despair in the world to end. This mountain was to be found in what was called the “Land of Dewa.”
He embarked on his long journey and along the way he met many people who were suffering. Hachiko “absorbed” their pain with his magical powers, delivering them from their illnesses. In doing so, his physical appearance became distorted and atrocious, warping his facial features into something monstrous. But despite his scary features, Prince Hachiko was reputed to be a loving and compassionate man—almost a saint.
Guided by a three-legged crow known to be a messenger from the gods, the prince found Mt. Haguro, designating it a holy place of Buddhism in 593.
The Shinto god worshipped at Mt. Haguro is called Ukanomitama ウカノミタマ, goddess of cereal and crops.
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