Also called “The Realm of the Dead”, or “The Mountain of the Past”, Mt. Gassan is the most important step in the Dewa Sanzan’s yamabushi training.

Distance	5.5km
Elevation	600meters
Required Time	2.5h
Danger level	Several dangers *Dangers include:Slippery slopes, Unstable rocks, Snow (risks of slipping), Low temperatures, Strong winds
Difficulty level (for beginners)	Challenging
Equipment needed	●　Water ●　Hiking shoes ●　Rainwear ●　Sun hat ●　Hiking sticks ●　Snow grips (especially in July)

Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.

　

　

1. Get off the bus at Gassan Hachigôme

Gassan Hachigôme 月山八合目 can be translated into “Mt. Gassan’s eight station”. It is the most convenient point to start climbing the mountain. The building on the picture is Gassan Resthouse. You can buy rain gear, hats, food or drinks here.

2. Have a view on the Shonai plains

If the weather is not too cloudy, you can see the extent of the Shonai region, up to Sakata city and Mt. Chôkai.

3.  Toilet

These are the public toilet at the bottom of Mt. Gassan. Use them if needed, but do not forget to leave a tip to help maintain the place.

4.  The first crossing

If you take left, you follow the classic Mt. Gassan climbing track. If you take right, you will cross the Midahara pilgrim lodge.

5. This is what the classic Gassan climbing track looks like

6. If you turn back, you can spot Mt. Chokai and Midahara pilgrim lodge

7. Second crossing

Take left if you want to go to Midahara’s pilgrim lodge and shrines, or take right to continue your adventure to the top of Mt. Gassan.

8. The wooden track ends

The track is now entirely made of rocks. Some are unstable, please watch your steps.

9. Midagahara marshes from afar

10. Balanced stones

11. Native flowers

12.Native flowers

13. Continue straight

14. You arrive at Busshoike Goya

This is a pilgrim lodge & café. You need to buy a little something to use the space to rest.

15. Busshoike pond’s statues

16.The jibokannon bodhisattva

17. Manai shrine

18. Climb the rocks

19. Gyojagaeshi slope

Continue straight or make a little detour on your right to arrive to Manai shrine

20.  Manai Shrine

21. Continue straight

22. Take a rest or continue straight

23.

24. Go back on the wooden track

Those wooden tracks indicate you are near to Mt. Gassan’s summit.

25. Balanced stones near Mt. Gassan’s highest point

26. You spot Gassan’s peak

27. The building on this picture belongs to Gassan shrine

28. This is what the Gassan Shrine complex looks like

29. Here is the Gassan Chojo Goya lodge

30. Public toilet

Exploring the entire Dewa Sanzan mountain range can be a bit challenging due to the varying hikeability of the mountains throughout the year and limited transportation options. However, there is indeed a way to conquer all three mountains in one trip to Tsuruoka! Let us guide you on how to achieve this using the city’s available public transportation services in a 2 nights 3 days trip. Please note this whole trip can only be accomplished during the official Mt. Gassan hiking season (July 1st to September 15th)

　

Tsuruoka Station

Tsuruoka Station is the most convenient spot to plan all your transportations to Tsuruoka City’s several places of interests (S-MALL bus center, a few minutes away from the station, is also a good place to wait for the bus as it is located near the Daiichi Hotel and inside the S-Mall shopping mall). Tsuruoka Station is part of the JR network, so you can use your JR pass to reach Tsuruoka. Here are some tips to keep in mind before embarking on your journey to the Dewa Sanzan:

1. Aim to arrive at Tsuruoka Station before 1:00 PM. If you’re coming from Tokyo, catch the Joetsu Shinkansen Toki 311 departing from Tokyo Station at 9:12 AM. This will get you to Niigata Station in approximately 90 minutes (arrival time: 10:41 AM), allowing for a smooth transfer to Tsuruoka Station via the Limited Inaho Express No. 7 departing at 10:48 AM. You’ll reach Tsuruoka in about 1 hour and 50 minutes (arrival time: 12:42 PM). Consider having lunch at a nearby restaurant or grabbing a bento from the convenience store next to the station.
2. Catch the bus to Mt. Haguro at 12:58 PM or 2:33 PM from Tsuruoka Station’s bus stop #2 (Japanese name: 鶴岡駅前バス停２番). Get off the bus at Hagurozuishinmon after a 36-minute ride.

Useful links:

Japan Railway East : The timetables of “Joetsu Shinkansen” and “Limited Inaho Express” change every month, so please search from the links below.(Japanese, please use automatic translation):

https://www.jreast-timetable.jp/

Shonai Kotsu – Bus to Mt. Haguro’s timetable :

https://www.shonaikotsu.jp/english/tourism/haguro_tt.html

Haguro Zuishinmon

To start your journey to the Dewa Sanzan sacred mountain, the first mountain you should aim for is Mt. Haguro. In order to climb the “Mountain of Present”, you need to enter the “Zuishinmon gate”. This red gate used to be a “Niomon” (a Buddhist gate that enshrines the Buddhist gods “Nio”), but changed its name to Zuishinmon after Mt. Haguro was forcefully converted to Shintoism in the 19th century. You will find the Tenchikon-jinja shrine on its right.

Here is what we recommend you to do for the afternoon:

1. Climb Mt. Haguro (1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, according to your hiking speed)
2. Have tea & mochi at the Ninosaka Chaya Teahouse halfway to the top.
3. Visit the top of the mountain, hear a prayer at the Dewa Sanzan shrine (regularly performed until 4pm)
4. Stay at a shukubo lodge for the night, at the top (Saikan) or by going back to the foot of the mountain. You can take the bus from the top (bus stop name: Haguro Sancho) back to the bottom (Haguro Zuishinmon or other bus stops) if you do not wish to climb the stairs down. (bus ride: 660 yen per person)

Useful links:

Shonai Kotsu – Bus to Mt. Haguro’s timetable :

https://www.shonaikotsu.jp/english/tourism/haguro_tt.html

Haguro Sancho

　

D2 : The big hike: Mt. Gassan & Mt. Yudono

Haguro Sancho

Haguro Sancho 羽黒山頂 will be your transfer point to take the bus to Mt. Gassan. We suggest you take the earliest bus possible to Mt. Gassan so you can do the hike to Mt. Yudono when there is still daylight.

1. Aim to depart from Haguro Sancho before 8am.
2. Catch the bus to Gassan Hachigome at 7:05am or 8:05 am. Get off the bus at Gassan Hachigome 月山八合目 after a 55 minute ride.

Useful links:
Shonai Kotsu – Bus to Mt. Haguro & Gassan’s timetable :
https://www.shonaikotsu.jp/english/tourism/haguro_tt.html

Gassan Hachigome

Gassan Hachigome 月山八合目 (“Gassan’s Eighth Station”) is the name given to the spot where most hikers start their hike to the top of Mt. Gassan. It takes 2 hours and half to reach the top for beginner hikers without a pause (please note that the time required to hike depends greatly on your hiking pace, the purpose of your hike: photography = +40 min. to +1 hour, leisure = +20 min., sports = -30min., etc.).

Equipment needed

-Good hiking shoes -Good sunproof hat & sunglasses -Sunscreen or long-sleeved top -Water -Hiking sticks -A waterproof windbreaker vest (in case of rain) -Snacks & food -Light crampons (for hikers in early-mid July; as there is some snow remaining on some parts of the trail) -(Recommended) Insect repellent -(Recommende) Bear bell

1. Aim to start your hike at around 9am
2. Visit the Midagahara marshes and the Midahara shrine
3. Visit the Busshoike Goya Lodge　佛生池小屋 (please buy food or a souvenir if you wish to rest inside the place)
4. Hike to the top, visit the Gassan shrine 月山神社 (500 yen per person)

Useful links:

Shonai Kotsu – Bus to Mt. Haguro & Gassan’s timetable :

https://www.shonaikotsu.jp/english/tourism/haguro_tt.html

Komoot – Hiking map to Mt. Gassan

https://www.komoot.com/ja-jp/tour/970832065

Gassan Chojo Goya

1. Have lunch at Gassan Chojo Goya 月山頂上小屋 (might be out of service according to the water-availability situation or special schedules)
2. Follow the hiking trail to Mt. Yudono. From there, it is a 3 hours and half+ hiking course that is awaiting you. Please count at least 4 hours of hiking if you are a novice, 5 hours if you wish to take your time/photos. The last part of the trail is dangerous (metal ladders stuck in the rock, very slippery in case of rain).

Yudonosan-jinja

• Visit the Yudonosan-jinja shrine (500 yen/person). You need to take off your shoes in the dedicated space and take part in a purification prayer as instructed by the priest (you will need to rub your body with a little white piece of paper called “hitogata”, and release it in the nearby water stream to cleanse you from your defilements; then you are expected to listen to a prayer, and climb Mt. Yudono’s holy rock in the hot water).
• Go to the small parking lot behind the shrine. You will find a souvenir shop and a shuttle-bus stop that will bring you to Yudonosan Senninzawa. Wait for the bus (200 yen/person, 1-way only). The last bus departs at around 4:30pm. Please keep this in mind when planning your trip. Otherwise you will have to walk 40 min. on foot to get to the next step.

Useful links:

Shonai Kotsu – Shuttle-bus to Senninzawa (Japanese) 湯殿山神社本宮参拝バス

https://www.shonaikotsu.jp/tourism/toll_yudono.html

Yudonosan Senninzawa & Yudonosan Sanrojo

Yudonosan Senninzawa is the big place at the foot of the mountain with a giant red torii gate in the middle. You will find a Buddhist graveyard on the right of the torii (from the point of view of the photo above), the Yudonosan Sanrojo pilgrim lodge on the left, and the Yudonosan Resthouse at the bottom of Yudonosan Sanrojo.

• Stay at Yudonosan Sanrojo (prior booking mandatory)

Useful links:

Shoko Travel – Yudonosan Sanrojo’s English Website (reservations & info)

https://www.yudonosan-stay.com/

Japan Heritage (in Japanese: Nihon-isan 日本遺産) is a new cultural legacy designation system, apart from the already existing National Property designation system, that aims to protect the concepts and stories that are anchored into Japan’s history and traditional culture.
There are in total 8 Japan Heritages registered as of February 2021 in the Tohoku Region, and Tsuruoka boasts 3 of them, which are:

●　Japan Heritage Official Site | Stories and travel information

Dewa Sanzan’s Journey for Rebirth 出羽三山の生まれかわりの旅

Dewa Sanzan, one of the Three Main Sacred Sites of Shugendo in Japan (日本三大修験道), has been existing for more than 1400 years.
The Dewa Sanzan Yamabushi practice has been ongoing for all those centuries without discontinuing. 
Everybody is accepted and invited to learn about the essence of Dewa Sanzan’s Yamabushi way of thinking: the “uketamo” (ウケタモウ), literally: “I accept”. 
Accomplishing the pilgrimage of the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa : Mt. Haguro, Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono is said to make the pilgrim access “spiritual rebirth”.

Related Spots	Go to “About Dewa Sanzan”
Japan Heritage’s official page	Dewa Sanzan’s Journey of Rebirth

Samurai Silk サムライシルク

The Samurai Silk designates the silk produced in the Shonai region after the Shonai Clan’s surrender, an event that marks the end of the Boshin War in 1868 and the new government of the Meiji Period. After the Boshin War, the Shonai Clan, the last to have surrendered to the new government, was considered a renegade. To wash their former clan’s honor and prove their value, the former samurais wished to participate in developing the new government’s economics by specializing themselves in silk farming. The government allowed them to do so and let them build the Matsugaoka Silk Farms. The samurais controlled every step of the silk production: from silkworm breeding to the final products’ manufacture.

Related Spots	Matsugaoka’s silk farms
	Chido clan School
	Chido museum
	Shonai Shrine
Japan Heritage’s official page	Samurai Silk

Kitamaebune’s Maritime Road 北前船寄港地・船主集落

The Kitamaebune Maritime Road departed from Hokkaidô down to Osaka, running along the coast of the sea of Japan from the Early 18th Century to the Early 20th Century. The merchants of the Kitamaebune 北前船, literally: “the boats from the North” (a combination of the words kitamae 北前 that used to designate the Sea of Japan, and fune 船: the boats), followed that shipping route from ports to ports, importing rare goods from the South to the North (and vice-versa) to resell them at a higher price to the following harbor. Merchants who ventured on the dangerous Sea of Japan risked their lives, hoping for a better life. The tremendous benefits made by the Kitamaebune merchants benefitted a lot of small coastal cities. In Tsuruoka, this is particularly noticed in the castle town, with the construction of rich merchant houses and the flourishing of Zenpoji Temple thanks to the sailors’ donations.
​
There are 45 port cities in 16 different Japanese prefectures that are registered in the Japan Heritage Kitamaebune’s Maritime Road registry.

Related Spots	Zenpoji temple
	Chef Suda’s cuisine
	HEISHINDO’s Merchant House
Japan Heritage’s official page	Kitamaebune’s Maritime Road

Atsumi is said to have been founded by the creator of Shugendo himself: En no Gyoja. Walk upon its sacred Shugendo paths.

Distance	10.5km
Elevation	720meters
Required Time	5h
Danger level	Caution advised *Dangers include:Bear presence, Heat strokes, Slippery slopes, Slippery when raining, Fallen trees
Difficulty level (for beginners)	Moderate
Equipment needed	●　Water ●　Hiking shoes ●　Rainwear ●　Sun hat ●　Hiking sticks ●　Food or snacks

Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example:  Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.

　

　

1. This sign tells you where to start your pilgrimage

2.  Continue straight

3.  You get a view on Atsumi Onsen

4.  You step inside the forest

5. Continue straight

6. There is a map in Japanese of the surroundings

7. Fill in your water bottles at the Kowa springs

8. Kowa Shimizu (Kowa Springs)

9. Cross the bridge at the Ichinotaki falls

10. Turn right at this sign

11. Don’t forget to write down your name

12. Get inside the forest

13. Cross the bridge

14. Continue straight

15. Cross another bridge

16. Spot the “Encounter falls”

The Deai no taki 出会いの滝 designates two falls that join in the same stream, making them look like lovers.

17. Climb the ladder

18. Cross another bridge

19. Climb the stairs

20.  Spot the Sanno Falls

21. Use this spring to fill in your bottles

22. After a while, you arrive at the Kumano Shrine

23.  A little further, Mt. Atsumi’s viewpoint

24.  Go down

25. The tracks are narrow and some trees have fallen

Please be very careful when doing down the route.

26. Come across the Babasugi

“Grandma cedar”

27. Buddhist stele

28. This sign indicates you are near the end

29. This spring is the last spot of this hiking trail

Otsukaresama deshita! お疲れ様でした！”Congratulations for your efforts!”

Ready to venture outside Japan’s beaten tracks? Eager to discover the beauty and the spiritual essence of the Northeastern part of Japan, known as “Tohoku” in Japanese? Do you consider travel incomplete without indulging in delicious food? Look no further. We have the perfect 10-nights itinerary for you to explore the Tohoku region, experiencing each prefecture’s iconic dishes and drinks while visiting the most historic, fascinating, and beautiful landmarks! This tour is also JR-pass friendly (but feel free to use the means of transportation of your choice!).

Places visited: (Niigata prefecture) Niigata city, Sado island, (Yamagata prefecture) Tsuruoka and the Dewa Sanzan, Yamadera, Ginzan Onsen, (Miyagi Prefecture) Sendai, Onagawa, Kinkasan, (Iwate prefecture) Hiraizumi, and Morioka.

This trip idea can be completed all-year-round but we recommend to avoid the snowy season if you wish to walk the hiking parts entirely.

Physical activity level: Easy

Budget: 200＄ a day on average

(D1) Niigata: the gateway to the Tohoku region

While it is true that technically, the Niigata region doesn’t belong to the Tohoku region (it is actually part of the Hokuriku region), its convenient location, right between Tokyo and Yamagata Prefecture, makes it the perfect gateway for those wishing to visit the Tohoku region from Tokyo. Additionally, Niigata’s position along the Sea of Japan, its heavy winter snowfalls, and its cultural similarities with northern Japan often lead to its association with Tohoku. Furthermore, travelers looking to visit the beautiful Sado Island must stop at Niigata’s port to take the ferry to this famous island.

Below are our recommended places to visit while in Niigata City:

Did you know?

Niigata’s Geigi (芸妓, “girls of arts”) first appeared 200 years ago, catering to the needs of wealthy merchants who sailed from Hokkaido to Kyoto along the Sea of Japan. These merchants traveled on boats called “Kitamaebune” 北前船 (a Japan Heritage site since 2017) to buy and sell goods from harbor to harbor. This new maritime trade route facilitated cultural, culinary, architectural, and artisanal exchanges in these harbors. Niigata’s Geigi are a manifestation of these cultural exchanges, as the tradition of geishas, a form of entertainment that originated in Kyoto, was brought to Niigata during this time.

Did you know?

Niigata Prefecture is Japan’s number one sake producer in terms of the number of “sakagura” (酒蔵, “sake brewery”), boasting the largest number of sake breweries in the country. This is due to Niigata’s ideal environment for cultivating rice: abundant snowfall in the winter, warm and humid summers, and extensive fields with high-quality water. The perfect year-round temperature and rich soil nutrients result in plentiful crops and delicious rice, which is essential for producing top-quality sake.

For more ideas of things to do in Niigata…

See the Niigata City Official Travel Guide website.

(D2) Off to Sado Island!

Sado Island, a little paradise on the sea just one hour away from Niigata by jetfoil boat, is beloved by hikers and enthusiasts of traditional Japanese arts. The island is famous for the Sado Taiko drums and offers excellent opportunities for wildlife photography. In 2024, Sado’s Gold Mines were listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites, highlighting the island’s cultural significance in Japan’s history. Sado Island is renowned for its seafood and its historical connection to maritime activities. Visitors can enjoy “taraibune” tub boat tours, diving sessions, and sea kayaking.

Here is a list of recommended activities and sights on Sado Island:

Yahatakan, an hotel with open-air onsen (rotenburo). Website

Other places to stay (Sado’s DMO’s website)

More ideas of things to do in Sado

Visit Sado’s Official Website

Enjoy Sado’s official reservation platform

(D3) Off to Tsuruoka & Mt. Haguro!

Tsuruoka City (hi! that’s us!), once the castle town of the Shonai Clan, who governed the historic Dewa Province (Dewa no kuni 出羽の国, other phonetic version: Ideha no kuni いではの国) a now obsolete term that designated an area that used to cover Yamagata and Akita Prefectures), was and still is renowned as one of Japan’s top rice-producing regions. The Shonai Clan was famous for its military prowess, including their undefeated record during the Boshin War (1868) and the strict teachings based in Ogyu Sorai’s doctrine (deriving from Confucianism) of the Sakai family, their leaders. Besides its rich feudal past, Tsuruoka is a spiritual center for pilgrims and practitioners of ancient mountain-worshipping traditions like Shugendo, as well as esoteric Buddhist schools such as Tendai and Shingon. The sacred Dewa Sanzan, a pilgrimage route with over 1,400 years of history, includes three mountains: Mt. Haguro (414m), Mt. Gassan (1,984m), and Mt. Yudono (1,500m). In addition to its exciting hiking trails, and historical and spiritual significance, Tsuruoka is home to the world’s largest jellyfish collection at Kamo Aquarium, located near the Yunohama Onsen hot spring village, and is Japan’s first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy.

Here’s a plan to experience all of the above in a 2-day trip to Tsuruoka:

In front of the station and the bus stations, there is a building called “FOODEVER”. Inside, you will find the Tsuruoka Tourist Information Center, where English-speaking staff will answer your questions and help you sort out any problem you have from 9am to 5:30pm. There are also coin lockers, toilets, a restaurant, seats, Wi-Fi, and tourist brochures at your disposal (the building is open from 9am to 10pm).

Did you know?

Mt. Haguro belongs to the National Park of Bandai-Asahi, along with the two other mountains of the Dewa Sanzan (Mt. Gassan & Mt. Yudono). The Bandai-Asahi National Park includes many natural sites over the prefectures of Yamagata, Niigata and Fukushima. This national park hosts a great variety of endemic animal and vegetal species. In Mt. Haguro, lucky visitors can spot the Japanese flying squirrel (musasabi in Japanese) or the moriaogaeru モリアオガエル frog who likes to lay eggs above Mt. Haguro’s Kagamiike pond in July.
Website for the Bandai-Asahi National Park

(D4) Kamo Aquarium, Zenpoji Temple and Yunohama Onsen

Wake up from your shukubo lodge, have the morning prayer, breakfast, and head back to Tsuruoka station (reminder: the bus stop is called “Tsuruoka ekimae”, bus timetable). If you are staying in a lodge at the foot of Mt. Haguro (a place called “shukubo-gai”, the “shukubo town”), there are many bus stops. The most recognizable is located near the Koganedo/Shozen’in temple (bus stop name: Koganedomae). Take the 9:21 bus. Arrive at Tsuruoka station at 9:55.

Did you know?

Kamo Aquarium is renowned for having the largest collection of jellyfish in the world, with over 60 successfully reproduced species. It features the world’s only “jellyfish-only fish tank,” a five-meter-diameter tank filled with Aurelia Aurita (moon jellies). The aquarium shares its expertise globally through partnerships with aquariums and universities, including Paris Aquarium, Monterey Bay Aquarium, and La Rochelle Aquarium.
Before its transformation into a jellyfish-specialized aquarium, Kamo Aquarium faced bankruptcy as a generalist aquarium. The current director, Mr. Okuizumi Kazuya, who was then a keeper, proposed the idea of specializing in jellyfish. Despite their simple anatomy, jellyfish are extremely difficult to keep in captivity due to their need for stable environmental conditions. Mr. Okuizumi mastered the complexities of jellyfish care, significantly expanding the aquarium’s jellyfish collection with the help of his skilled team of keepers and researchers.
Mr. Okuizumi also assisted Dr. Osamu Shimomura, the 2008 Nobel Prize winner in Chemistry, by providing specimens of Aequorea victoria. This jellyfish produces a bioluminescent protein called GFP, which was central to Dr. Shimomura’s Nobel-winning research. Since then, Kamo Aquarium has continued to thrive and innovate.

Did you know?

Zenpoji Temple is one of the Three Main Soto Buddhist Temples in Japan, with a history spanning over a millennium. The temple’s main deity is the Dragon God, revered for protecting all things related to water, including fishermen, farmers, and sailors, and for its powers to heal diseases and pain. Zenpoji is so respected throughout the Tohoku region that fishermen from other prefectures proudly display Zenpoji’s flag on their boats, seeking protection and blessings.
Zenpoji gained significant attention in the 90s due to its “human-faced carps” (人面魚 jinmengyo in Japanese) after a Japanese TV program featured these uniquely human-like fish. The jinmengyo are believed to be manifestations of the Dragon God worshipped in the temple’s waters. Visitors often make donations or pray at the shrine near Kaibami-ike pond at the temple’s base, hoping for cures for their illnesses.
During the golden age of the Kitamaebune maritime road (see Niigata’s paragraph for more details) in the 18-19th century, Zenpoji became a prominent site of devotion for merchants seeking protection from sea storms and shipwrecks. This increased popularity and the donations it brought allowed the temple to invest in the creation of beautiful structures, such as the Five-Storied Pagoda and the 500 Rakan Hall.
The temple’s monks perform the prayer 6 times a day. They also offer zazen sessions, shojin-ryori lunches or Buddhist stays at their lodge on the second floor.

There are many ryokan options in Yunohama Onsen to have a soothing bath and spend the night. (See our list of ryokan to stay at Yunohama Onsen)

We personally recommend trying “Kameya”, a three-centuries old ryokan that has welcomed two Imperial Couples as its guests in its history, proof of the high-quality of its services and its comfort.

(Kameya’s website)

(D5) Sakata city, its maiko & oiran culture and its delicious pork

Sakata City, another key hub port of the Kitamaebune trade route until the 19th century, was home to Japan’s wealthiest family, the Honma family, who amassed their fortune through vast rice fields (and harvests). In Sakata, you can immerse yourself in the history of Kitamaebune merchants by exploring the old town, where the Somaro teahouse is located. Somaro’s maiko still perform in the local dialect, offering unique dances and chants for lunch or special occasions. The experienced eye can appreciate the differences from Kyoto geisha and enjoy the distinctive performances of Sakata’s maiko.

Nearby, you can visit the Sanno Kurabu, a former restaurant with a 120-year history. This site showcases the history of Sakata’s oiran (highest-ranked courtesans) through comical and erotic drawings displayed in a small tearoom, as well as doll displays depicting the various workers of a pleasure house.

Surrounded by the Shonai Plain and bordered by the Sea of Japan, Sakata offers exquisite sake and seafood. However, we recommend trying one of Japan’s finest pork meats: Shonai Pork, at Hirata Bokujo’s restaurant. This culinary delight is not to be missed.

There are many places to stay in Sakata, but our recommendation goes to Wakaba Ryokan, a cozy, traditional ryokan near Somaro, Sanno Kurabu and the Hiyoriyama Park that serves traditional Japanese food and has cozy futon bedrooms.

Wakaba Ryokan’s website

Did you know?

Many people confuse geisha 芸者 (literally : “person of arts”) and oiran 花魁, since they have relative similar appearances (white makeup, luxurious kimono and hair decorations to name a few). However, those two roles are completely different. Geisha are trained entertainers, who enter a teahouse and train for many years to perfect their instrument-playing, singing, and dancing. Customers buy their services to animate a business meeting or spend a luxurious moment filled in the company of refined ladies. Back in the days, geishas used to be a “transition” for customers who were waiting to see the courtesans, dancing and singing meanwhile.
Oiran were considered elite courtesans within the pleasure quarters (yūkaku), such as the Yoshiwara district in Edo (now Tokyo). They were known for their beauty, elaborate hairstyles, and richly decorated kimonos. Oiran were distinguished by their elaborate and ornate kimonos, tall wooden clogs (koma-geta), and complex, multi-layered hairstyles adorned with numerous hairpins. Their appearance was much more flamboyant compared to geisha. Oiran culture declined with the end of the Edo period and the eventual outlawing of licensed prostitution, while geisha culture has continued to the present day, though in a modernized form.

What to eat in Sakata city?

Did you know?

Sakata’s ramen were voted “Japan’s N°1 ramen” in 2023 at the “Japanese local ramen contest” that was held in Shinjuku/Okubo Park.

More ideas of things to do in Sakata

Sakata Tourism’s official website

(D6) Ginzan Onsen and Yamagata!

Don’t miss Yamagata City, a key destination in the Tohoku region. Not only is it a transportation hub connecting you to stunning spots like Yamadera and Ginzan Onsen, but it’s also a “culinary hub,” offering the finest dishes from across the prefecture. Enjoy the famous dadachamame from Tsuruoka (known as the “king of edamame”), savor the rich flavors of Yonezawa beef (one of Japan’s top three wagyu varieties), and taste the renowned Shonai pork. Yamagata is also famous for its ramen and is Japan’s top producer of cherries.

During your one-night, two-day stay in Yamagata, you’ll have plenty of time to fully appreciate the delights this prefecture has to offer!

It is actually very hard to stay at Ginzan Onsen. Most establishments are full many months in advance, and most rooms’ price is on the upper side of the scale. We recommend you to stay near Yamagata station if you couldn’t make a booking for a ryokan inside Ginzan Onsen.

(D7) Yamagata city, Yamadera’s Buddhist grounds and off to Sendai!

For more ideas of things to do in Yamagata city

Visit Yamagata’s website

For more ideas of things to do in Sendai:

Visit Miyagi’s Official Website

(D8) Onagawa & Kinkasan Island

Kinkasan’s Island is designated as a Natural Monument of Japan, recognized for its rich biodiversity and its role as a sanctuary for various wildlife species. The island is home to a thriving population of deer, along with monkeys and numerous bird species, including eagles and other raptors, making it a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts and birdwatchers.

In addition to its vibrant wildlife, Kinkasan boasts a well-maintained pilgrimage route that guides visitors through the island’s lush forests, past ancient shrines and temples.

The island’s atmosphere is often compared to Nara, with its sacred deer and historic sites, but with the added charm of being set in the middle of the ocean. To go there, you will need to take the ferry from Onagawa port, a harbor city that still today hosts the terrible vestiges of the 2011’s Tohoku earthquake and tsunami.

(D9) Heading to Iwate’s World Heritage : Hiraizumi

Hiraizumi is a cultural gem in Japan, boasting several UNESCO World Heritage Sites linked to Buddhism. Among these, Chuson-ji Temple and Motsu-ji Temple stand out for their exquisite gardens, ancient architecture, and invaluable historical artifacts. Chuson-ji, founded in the early 12th century, is particularly famous for its Konjikido Hall, a golden pavilion lavishly adorned with gold leaf, making it a stunning example of Heian-period Buddhist art. Motsu-ji, known for its serene Pure Land gardens, offers a glimpse into the spiritual landscape design of the era.

Explore the area on electric bicycles to travel more freely. For lunch, you’ll stop at a local “wanko soba” restaurant. This unique dining experience is a specialty of Iwate Prefecture, where small bowls of soba (buckwheat noodles) are served one after another in rapid succession. The challenge—and the fun—lies in signaling when you’ve had enough by covering your bowl, as servers continuously refill it until you do.

To cap off the day, you’ll enjoy a refreshing Japanese beer. Interestingly, Iwate Prefecture is one of the main producers of hops in Japan, contributing to the country’s excellent beer-making tradition.

The cheapest option would be to stay around Ichinoseki station (8 min. away from Hiraizumi station by train). But the most convenient choice would go for a ryokan or minpaku nearby Hiraizumi station. Our recommendation goes to Maizuru’s ryokan, an affordable and comfortable option for a 2 nights stay in Hiraizumi.

Maizuru’s website

(D10) A full day to enjoy Hiraizumi’s temples

You’ll stay at the same place than the day before. So don’t worry about the next train, bus or check-outs, you can take your time to visit all the temples and main spots of Hiraizumi. We recommend you rent a bicycle next to Hiraizumi’s station (see more) to move more efficiently and effortlessly.

For a complete outlook of things to see and do in Hiraizumi: Hiraizumi Navi’s Official Website

(D11) End your trip on a delicious note: Morioka and its jajamen

On the final day of our Tohoku trip, we’ll ease the bittersweet feeling of departure with a taste of Morioka’s famous “Jajamen” after visiting the striking Morioka Hachimangu Shrine, a vibrant red shrine dating back to the 17th century. Morioka Jajamen is a comforting dish featuring thick, handmade wheat noodles that are satisfyingly chewy. It’s traditionally topped with a flavorful mix of minced meat, usually a blend of pork and beef, along with finely chopped green onions, cucumber, and other fresh vegetables, creating a delightful balance of textures and flavors. Before we head home, we’ll explore local souvenir shops where you can pick up a “Chagchag Umako” doll—an intricately decorated horse figure that makes for a unique memento of Morioka.

How did you like it?

Thank you for reading our recommended trip to the Tohoku region. Please remind that this is just a recommended itinerary and not a complete travel guide. All the timetables of the several buildings and services noted in this article are subject to change through time and/or according to emergencies or special occasions. Feel free to change the plan, extend some stays or shorten/skip others. Please verify the itinerary, time tables, buildings’ opening hours, hotels’ availabilities, and such by yourself or subscribe to one of our arranged packages (book with us).

More information about Tohoku’s destinations

https://www.tohokukanko.jp/en/

More information about the JR pass

https://japanrailpass.net/

More information about Tohoku’s JR network

https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/

Dewa Sanzan is not the only sacred place of Shugendo in Tsuruoka. Discover another sacred Yamabushi place around Yutagawa Onsen.

Distance	8km
Elevation	423meters
Required Time	3h
Danger level	Caution advised *Dangers include:Heat strokes, Slippery when raining, Fallen trees, Bear presence
Difficulty level (for beginners)	Moderate
Equipment needed	●　Water ●　Hiking shoes ●　Rainwear ●　Sun hat ●　Hiking sticks ●　Food or snacks

Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example:  Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.

　

　

1. Start at Yutagawa Onsen

2.  Go to Fujisawa hamlet

3.  Cross Fujisawa’s ricefields

4.  You walk past Fujisawa’s temple

5. Follow the paved road

6. After passing the bamboo forest, you find this sign.

Please attach your bear bell to your gear before going further.

7. Follow the road in the middle of the bamboo forest

8. You spot the Kinbo Shrine torii gate

9. Enter the hiking trail

10. The vegetation is wild

11. It is hot during summer, make frequent stops

12. Continue climbing

13. Make sure your bear makes sound

14. Landslides lead tree to fall. Climb them.

15. Continue straight

16. You get out of the forest

17. You spot steles

18. You enter a forest again

19. Cross the dirt road to continue

Be careful to the cars that might be crossing on the dirt road.

20.  The slope gets steeper

21. Viewpoint on Shonai plains

22. Another dirt road used by car crosses the road

23. Mountain toilet

Use if necessary

24. Mt. Kinbo’s viewpoint on Shonai Plains

25. This is the Gakkôzaka

26. Continue to Kinbozan Shrine

27. Kinbozan Shrine

28. Kinbozan Shrine

29. Go back to the dirt road but take the other direction this time

30. You are in a cedar forest

31. After some time, you come across this cave

This cave has been hosting life since the Jomon era.

32. Fallen trees on your way

33. Bamboo forest

34. From there, continue going straight to go back to Yutagawa Onsen

A Beloved Confectionery Rooted in Tradition

Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture, recognized as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, is a hub of culinary excellence. Among its many traditional foods is Sasamaki (笹巻), a sweet with over 230 years of history. Sasamaki, made by wrapping glutinous rice in bamboo leaves and boiling it, has long been a festive dish for Tango no Sekku (端午の節句 Boys’ Festival) on May 5. While “chimaki (ちまき)” is commonly enjoyed nationwide, in Tsuruoka, the tradition is to celebrate with Sasamaki. Today, it is also enjoyed year-round as a beloved traditional sweet.

In the Shonai region, the method of making Sasamaki varies by area. In southern Shonai, where Tsuruoka is located, the predominant style involves using lye to produce yellow Sasamaki. In contrast, northern Shonai, including Sakata City, features white Sasamaki made without lye.

The lush natural environment of Tsuruoka, where firewood was once a common fuel, made wood ash readily available. This ash, known as lye, is strongly alkaline with antibacterial and preservative properties. The lye water, derived by soaking the ash in water and skimming the surface liquid, enhances the preservation of Sasamaki, leading to the saying: “The quality of Sasamaki depends on the lye.” Around the Boys’ Festival season, lye water is even sold at local farmers’ markets.
Tsuruoka’s traditional confectionery tochimochi (とちもち) also utilizes lye for removing bitterness from horse chestnuts, making Sasamaki and tochimochi iconic examples of Tsuruoka’s unique lye culture.

Learn more about Tochimochi	TSURUOKA Creative City of Gastronomy | Traditional Confections
Youtube	Tsuruoka City’s Traditional Confection Tochi Mochi

How to Make Sasamaki

Preparing the Rice: Soak the glutinous rice in lye water overnight. Wrapping in Bamboo Leaves: Drain the rice and wrap it in bamboo leaves, securing it tightly with natural twine such as suge or igusa.
Boiling: Place the wrapped Sasamaki in a pot and boil it in water.
Cooling: After boiling, transfer the Sasamaki to cold water and rinse several times to cool.

The wrapping style varies by region and family, including the triangular “sankaku-maki,” the fist-like “kobushi-maki,” and the pointed “tsuno-maki.” For celebrations, large Sasamaki using dozens of leaves, known as “takenoko-maki,” are also made.

The bamboo leaves used to wrap the glutinous rice have traditionally been considered best when harvested during the “Doyo” period. Doyo is a traditional term in the Japanese calendar referring to intercalary periods that occur four times a year—before each of the seasons: spring, summer, autumn, and winter. Therefore, during the height of summer, from late July to early August, they harvest enough bamboo leaves to last for the entire year.

While bamboo leaves were traditionally dried for preservation, modern methods include boiling them with baking soda to maintain a vivid green color and then freezing them for long-term storage. During the Boys’ Festival season, bamboo leaves are also sold at local markets in Tsuruoka.

Enjoying Sasamaki

When unwrapped, Sasamaki reveals a glistening yellow, jelly-like texture. It’s typically enjoyed with kuromitsu (black syrup) and kinako (roasted soybean flour). In Tsuruoka, ao-kinako made from green soybeans is commonly used, enhancing the flavor with its bright green hue.

Sasamaki, once a festive food, is now a nostalgic local treat deeply loved by the community. To preserve its tradition, workshops teaching Sasamaki-making are actively held in Tsuruoka. Sasamaki can also be purchased at local supermarkets and specialty stores, making it a great souvenir for visitors. Be sure to give it a try!

Preserving Tradition for Future Generations

Sasamaki, with its long history and deep roots in regional culture, was recognized as a “100-Year Food” by the Agency for Cultural Affairs in March 2023. Furthermore, in March 2024, the Shonai Sasamaki Production Techniques were registered as a National Intangible Folk Cultural Property. These honors underscore Sasamaki’s value not just as a confectionery with a long history but as a symbol of culinary culture passed down through generations in the region.

Through Sasamaki, the wisdom of Tsuruoka and Shonai’s people, as well as the local environment and lifestyle, continues to be shared in modern times. As a cultural emblem, Sasamaki is expected to inspire pride in the community and remain a treasured tradition for future generations.

A six-day, five-night tour focusing on agriculture and culinary culture was held in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. The main activities included three days of Shonai persimmon harvesting, a day of sightseeing, and a culinary experience on the final day. On the last day, participants tried their hand at making Tsuruoka’s traditional sweet, “Sasamaki (笹巻),” and the local dish, “Imoni (芋煮) .”

→Harvest Experience at a Persimmon Farm in Tsuruoka! ~Agricultural & Culinary Culture Report Vol. 1~

The culinary experience took place at “Tsuruoka Food Culture Market FOODEVER,” located in front of JR Tsuruoka Station. The first part of the experience focused on making “Sasamaki,” a traditional confectionery with over 230 years of history.

Sasamaki is an essential delicacy for the Boys’ Festival (Tango no Sekku 端午の節句) and is known for its high preservation quality, yellowish hue, and chewy texture. In 2024, the technique for making Sasamaki in Shonai was designated a Registered Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan.

Participants were guided by Sasamaki expert Masuko Ito, who has over 40 years of experience. Her Sasamaki is also sold at the local farmers’ market, Sanchoku Asahi-Goo (産直あさひグー) .

Sasamaki is made by wrapping glutinous rice soaked in lye with bamboo leaves and boiling the package. For this experience, participants learned to wrap the bamboo leaves and fill them with rice. Both the bamboo leaves and the glutinous rice were locally sourced from Tsuruoka.

Gathering around the kitchen table, participants received a demonstration from Ms. Ito. First, bamboo leaves were layered to form a cone, filled with lye-soaked rice, and tied with a string called Igusa. The process was challenging for first-timers, requiring repeated attempts under Ms. Ito’s patient guidance.

“It’s tricky but so much fun!” exclaimed one participant with a beaming smile.

Each person made three to four Sasamaki.

Cooking the Local Dish “Imoni”

While the Sasamaki was being boiled by staff, participants moved on to cooking “Imoni,” a beloved local dish.

The lesson was led by the “Tsuruoka FŪDO (Food x Culture) Guides,” certified by the Tsuruoka Food Culture Creative City Promotion Council, which shares insights into the city’s food culture and history.

Imoni is a hearty Japanese soup centered around imo (taro root), a starchy and creamy-textured tuber. This traditional dish is a specialty of Yamagata Prefecture, especially popular in autumn during outdoor gatherings called “imoni-kai.” The soup combines taro with vegetables, meat, and seasonings, with distinct regional variations.
In inland areas of Yamagata, imoni is made with beef and soy sauce-based seasoning, while the Shonai region, including Tsuruoka, features a version using pork and miso. The Shonai-style imoni often includes pork, taro, green onions, fried tofu, konnyaku, and shiitake mushrooms. This comforting dish highlights the local flavors and ingredients, making it a beloved part of Yamagata’s food culture.
Experienced participants handled the cooking confidently and smoothly.

Between cooking steps, a mini-tour was conducted within FOODEVER, introducing participants to Tsuruoka’s food culture and local sake. The staff of the FŪDO Guide shared stories about Tsuruoka’s diverse geography, cultural heritage, UNESCO recognition, and notable landmarks, such as its four hot spring areas and three Japan Heritage sites. Participants listened intently, gaining a deeper appreciation for how food culture connects with the region’s identity.

A Tasting Experience with Local Rice: Tsuyahime and Yukiwakamaru

Once the Imoni was ready, it was time to taste. Participants enjoyed a luxurious comparison of two local rice brands, Tsuyahime (つや姫) and Yukiwakamaru (雪若丸), in the form of salted rice balls.

Side dishes included local heirloom vegetables such as Minden eggplant (Minden nasu 民田なす), pickled mustard, Atsumi turnips (Atsumi kabu 温海かぶ) grown through slash-and-burn farming, and shiso rolls (Shisomaki しそ巻き), providing a full sampling of Tsuruoka’s culinary culture.

The sake used in cooking the Imoni, “Kochu no Ten (壺中之天),” from Watarai Honten Brewery (渡會本店) in Tsuruoka’s Oyama district, was also served in small tasting portions. It is a junmai daiginjo sake with a fruity and elegant flavor. Using it for cooking feels truly luxurious!

Participants expressed their delight:
“Both rice varieties are delicious.”
“The taste is so comforting.”
“I’d love to bring some home as souvenirs.”

The staff boiled and chilled the Sasamaki, which participants took home as souvenirs.

Unwrapping the bamboo leaves revealed a yellow, jiggly treat. It’s best enjoyed with kinako (roasted soybean flour) or black syrup.

Experience the Charm of Tsuruoka

The culinary experience provided a special opportunity to taste, understand, and connect deeply with the region’s history and way of life. Through this tour, participants not only engaged with agriculture and culinary culture but also enjoyed meaningful exchanges with local residents, gaining a firsthand appreciation of Tsuruoka’s charm.

Various tours and events are held in Tsuruoka City, including those led by “Tsuruoka FŪDO (Food x Culture) Guides,” to showcase its rich food culture and agricultural products. For more information, please check the website below.

Tsuruoka FŪDO Guides (Japanese)	https://tsuruoka-fudo-guide.com/
TSURUOKA Creative City of Gastronomy	https://www.tsuruokagastronomy.com/

Note: Tour schedules are irregular.
This article is based on coverage conducted in autumn 2024.

Related Site

Tsuruoka’s Traditional Sweet: “Sasamaki”

Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture is a region rich in nature, surrounded by mountains on three sides and home to the expansive Shonai Plain. With a food culture passed down over centuries, Tsuruoka has been recognized as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. Recently, a six-day, five-night tour focusing on agriculture and culinary culture was held in this culturally rich city. Participants from areas such as Tokyo, Kanagawa, and Chiba enjoyed hands-on harvest experiences at local farms, immersing themselves in Tsuruoka’s unique charm.

Agricultural Experience at a Shonai Persimmon Orchard

The tour included an experience centered on “Shonai persimmons (Shonai gaki 庄内柿),” a specialty of Tsuruoka City. This variety, known as “Hiratanenashi (平核無),” is seedless and characterized by its flat, square shape. Though the flesh is firm, removing the astringency reveals a refreshing sweetness. The original Shonai persimmon tree still stands in Toriimachi, Tsuruoka City, designated as a natural monument.

Participants were divided among several farms for hands-on agricultural activities. At Okabe Farm in Haguro Town, Tsuruoka, Shonai persimmons and other varieties are cultivated. The expansive farm offers a refreshing environment, with participants noting, “Unlike the city, the fresh air and natural surroundings are invigorating!” They embraced the experience of farm work in a setting far removed from their daily lives.
Okabe Farm employs a unique cultivation method, spreading the persimmon trees low and wide. During harvest, no lifts are used; ladders allow for easy access to the fruit. Many persimmons are within arm’s reach, making the work accessible.

The harvest involved about six hours of work each day. Unlike simple “fruit picking,” the harvested persimmons were for shipment, requiring serious effort. With strict criteria for selecting persimmons based on color and size, participants received guidance from the farmers and carefully picked suitable fruit. Initially unsure, participants became adept by the final day, skillfully selecting and placing persimmons into baskets. Since the appearance of the fruit is crucial for shipment, each persimmon was handled and packed with care.

Okabe Farm owner Mr. Okabe, who also chairs the Shonai Persimmon Promotion Council, emphasized the importance of meticulous year-round work in producing high-quality fruit. He is committed to improving techniques and ensuring thorough management of branches and fruit. Additionally, he actively supports initiatives like this tour, seeing their potential to address labor shortages and promote local agricultural products.

Many participants were home gardeners or those interested in farming. Feedback included comments such as, “Working at an actual farm was a rare and valuable experience,” “The weather and air were wonderful,” “Harvesting was incredibly fun,” and “I’m happy to contribute to the farm.” Some were repeat participants, drawn back by the joy of previous agricultural experiences. They relished the break from city life, savoring the satisfaction of harvesting amid nature.

During breaks, participants were treated to freshly picked persimmons and La France pears, marveling at their freshness and flavor. While learning about the characteristics and ways to enjoy different varieties, they eagerly tasted the fruits, sparking lively conversations.

The joy of eating fruit they harvested themselves, coupled with the happiness of sharing fresh produce, created a warm and welcoming atmosphere throughout the event. The opportunity to interact with local farmers offered a special experience unique to this tour.

What Tsuruoka’s Agricultural Experience Conveys

The agricultural tour in Tsuruoka is designed not only to showcase local specialties but also to let participants feel the region’s history and culture through hands-on farming activities. In addition to persimmon harvesting, this year’s tours included apple farming experiences. In the past, agricultural experiences featuring cherries in the summer and La France pears in the autumn have been held in Yamagata Prefecture.

For local farmers, these experiences provide not only extra hands but also the chance to cultivate interest in their fruits and build a loyal fan base. Such initiatives highlight the idea that agricultural products are more than just food—they symbolize the region’s nature, culture, and way of life. Many participants leave with a renewed appreciation for these connections.

Various tours and events are held in Tsuruoka City, including those led by “Tsuruoka FŪDO (Food x Culture) Guides,” to showcase its rich food culture and agricultural products. For more information, please check the website below.

Tsuruoka FŪDO Guides (Japanese)	https://tsuruoka-fudo-guide.com/
TSURUOKA Creative City of Gastronomy	https://www.tsuruokagastronomy.com/

Note: Tour schedules are irregular.
This article is based on coverage conducted in autumn 2024.

Introduction

Nestled in Japan’s snow country, Tsuruoka quietly weaves an architectural narrative that surprises and inspires. In this serene provincial city, some of the world’s most acclaimed architects, including Pritzker Prize laureates, have brought to life innovative projects. Here, amidst rice fields and historic temples, contemporary architecture enters a fascinating dialogue with nature and tradition.

Just an hour by air from Tokyo, Tsuruoka remains largely undiscovered by international visitors, holding remarkable architectural treasures waiting to be explored.

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The Architectural Allure of Tsuruoka

A Hub of Pritzker Prize Laureates’ Works

Tsuruoka is home to an impressive concentration of works by Pritzker Prize-winning architects, often considered the “Nobel Prize of Architecture.” Three major projects from these celebrated architects define the city’s unique landscape:

• “SHONAI HOTEL SUIDEN TERRASSE” and “KIDS DOME SORAI” by Shigeru Ban (2014 Pritzker Prize)
• “Shōgin Tact Tsuruoka” by SANAA (Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa, 2010 Pritzker Prize)

These architects have embraced Tsuruoka’s natural and cultural landscape, using it as a canvas for designs that are both visionary and deeply rooted in context.

Where Tradition Meets Innovation

Tsuruoka presents a rare juxtaposition: the 1,300-year-old national treasure “Five-Story Pagoda of Mt. Haguro” stands alongside pioneering contemporary designs. This city has become a dynamic nexus where traditional building techniques harmonize with cutting-edge technology, giving rise to new forms of architectural expression.

Rooted in Local Culture and Nature

Tsuruoka’s rich natural environment, harsh climate, and unique spiritual heritage are interwoven into its architecture. The resulting structures are not only deeply connected to their locale but also resonate with a universal appeal, demonstrating how architecture can be both contextual and globally relevant.

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Must-Visit Structures

Modern Architectural Marvels

SHONAI HOTEL SUIDEN TERRASSE

Designed by Shigeru Ban (2018)

This hotel floats serenely above expansive rice fields, rooted in the Japanese agricultural landscape. Ban’s innovative approach challenges perceptions of the relationship between architecture and landscape, offering guests a unique experience in tune with the changing seasons of rice cultivation.

What makes this project especially captivating is its structural design: rather than a single monolithic building, Ban distributed the 119 rooms across multiple structures using three distinct structural systems. This approach preserves the visual harmony of the rice fields and creates an architectural promenade that allows guests to experience the landscape from various perspectives.

Key Points:

• Landscape Integration: A revolutionary approach that enhances and preserves agricultural views
• Structural Poetry: Masterful use of mixed structural systems creating visual lightness
• Experiential Design: An immersive spatial sequence that connects visitors with Japan’s rural landscape

Visitor’s Note: The scenery transforms dramatically with the seasons—from the vibrant greens of spring planting to the golden hues of harvest. Plan your visit to experience these seasonal shifts.

Related pages on this site

SHONAI HOTEL SUIDEN TERRASSE

Shōgin Tact Tsuruoka

Designed by SANAA (2018)

Located in an academic district filled with historic buildings, universities, and galleries, this multi-purpose cultural complex by Pritzker Prize-winning SANAA reinterprets traditional Japanese architectural wisdom for the modern era.

Conceived as a “hall for the community,” this building invites citizens to participate as audience members, participants, and performers. The large space is wrapped by a corridor inspired by traditional Japanese Saya-dō architecture, which flexibly redefines the boundaries between public and private spaces.

• Spatial Composition: A modern interpretation of Japanese architecture with a grand space encircled by a corridor
• Functional Design: Vineyard-style seating that fosters an intimate connection between audience and performers
• Adaptability: Flexible spatial configuration with movable partitions for professional performances when needed

External sites in Japanese

Shōgin Tact Tsuruoka

KIDS DOME SORAI

Designed by Shigeru Ban (2018)

An educational facility featuring a wooden dome with a diameter of 35.6 meters, this project explores the potential of large-span wooden structures in snow-heavy regions. This unique space balances the flexibility required for early childhood education with advanced architectural innovation, gaining global recognition as a groundbreaking architectural experiment.

Key Points:

• Structural Innovation: Achievement of a large-span wooden dome adapted to snowy conditions
• Spatial Design: A cohesive open space tailored for early childhood education
• Regional Responsiveness: Use of local materials and climate-adapted solutions

External sites in Japanese

KIDS DOME SORAI

Historical Treasures

Five-Story Pagoda of Mt. Haguro (National Treasure)

Built in 937, rebuilt in the 14th century

Known as the oldest five-story pagoda in the Tohoku region, this national treasure stands within a deep forest, embodying the elegance and technical prowess of traditional Japanese woodworking.

• Architectural Significance: One of the oldest wooden structures in the Tohoku region
• Construction Technique: Traditional Japanese woodworking methods without the use of nails
• Aesthetic Value: Harmonious integration with the surrounding natural environment

Related pages on this site

Mt. Haguro

Tsuruoka Catholic Church

Designed by Father Pappino (1903)

Constructed during the Meiji era, this Romanesque-style church uniquely adapted to the Japanese setting. Notable for its “window paintings” and a rare “Black Madonna” statue, it stands as a rare example of East-West architectural fusion.

• Cultural Fusion: Romanesque style adapted for Japanese cultural context
• Unique Features: Rare “window paintings” and “Black Madonna” statue
• Historical Importance: Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan

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Architectural Pilgrimage: Why Tsuruoka?

1. A Hub of World-Class Architecture: Experience multiple works by Pritzker Prize winners in one compact area.
2. Contextual Design Study: Observe how contemporary architects engage with historical and natural contexts.
3. Preservation Techniques: Study methods used to maintain centuries-old wooden structures.
4. A Blend of Urban and Rural Aesthetics: Explore architectural solutions bridging urban and rural sensibilities.
5. Seasonal Architecture: Experience how buildings transform with Japan’s distinct seasons.

　

This guide is continuously updated. Last revision: [2024/11/10]

Explore Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture with convenient access from major JR stations in Tokyo, Sendai, Yamagata, and Niigata. Whether by train or bus, discover the simple ways to start your journey to this captivating part of Japan.
*Information as of November 2024

From TOKYO Station by JR Japan Rail Pass

From Tokyo Station, take the Joetsu Shinkansen “Toki” to Niigata Station (approx. 120 minutes). Then transfer to the Uetsu Main Line limited express “Inaho” to Tsuruoka Station (approx. 110 minutes). Both the “Toki” and “Inaho” trains offer reserved and non-reserved seating.

The JR-EAST Trains & Routes

From YAMAGATA Station by Express Bus

From Yamagata Station, take either the Shonai Kotsu express bus or the Yamako express bus to the S-MALL Bus Terminal (approx. 115 minutes). The S-MALL Bus Terminal is just a 2-minute walk from JR Tsuruoka Station.

one-way fare: 2,600 yen (tax included).

More Information
Bus stop Locations: View Locations

Time table: Check Timetable

From Sendai Station by Express Bus

From Sendai Station, take the Shonai Kotsu, Miyagi Kotsu, or Ugo Kotsu express bus to the S-MALL Bus Terminal (approx. 150 minutes). The S-MALL Bus Terminal is just a 2-minute walk from JR Tsuruoka Station. The bus makes rest stops at highway stations.

Advance reservation required; one-way fare: 3,400 yen (tax included), round-trip fare: 6,100 yen.

More Information

Bus Stop Locations: View Locations

Time table: Check Timetable

Additional Information

For More Access Information, Click Here

Recommended itinerary: 11 days to see (and taste!) the best of the Tohoku region! 🚆A JR-pass compatible tour

Tsuruoka: things to see and do around the Dewa Sanzan sacred mountains

Discover Mount Haguro’s surroundings like very few have seen before. Discover landscapes that cannot be seen outside winter’s season and without a guide, watch Mt. Haguro’s wildlife in action, and learn about the local mountain vegetables.
Meet with our passionate guides recognized by the Ministry of Environment at Gassan Visitor Center, put on the snowshoes available for rental. An interpreter (English/French) can accompany you.
The price for 1 person starts from 2000 yen/person (more if interpretation is necessary).
On reservation only.