Ready for 7 days of epic hiking adventures in Tohoku? We’ve got your itinerary covered.

Grab your water bottle, hiking poles, and sunglasses, lace up your boots, and get ready to explore the wild beauty of northern Japan.

Start with the Volcano Trail in Fukushima Prefecture, traversing the dramatic landscapes of Jododaira and Mt. Issaikyo in Bandai-Asahi National Park. Then, follow the Spiritual Trail through the sacred peaks of Mt. Haguro & Yudono in Yamagata Prefecture, home to the legendary Dewa Sanzan.

Take in the serene coastal beauty of Matsushima Bay—celebrated as one of Japan’s top three scenic views—before venturing north to hike along the Michinoku Coastal Trail in Aomori and Iwate. Finally, end your journey in the tranquil forest paths of Yamadera, a temple hidden among the mountains.

Adventure, nature, and spirituality—all in one unforgettable week.

Prefectures visited: Fukushima, Miyagi, Iwate, Aomori, Yamagata prefectures

Places visited: Azuma Mountain Range (Jododaira, Mt. Issaikyo), Takayu Onsen, Matsushima Islands, Sendai, Tanesashi (Michinoku Coastal Trail), Morioka, Yamadera, Dewa Sanzan (Mt. Haguro & Yudono).

(D1) Jododaira, Takayu Onsen

Start your journey from Tokyo station at 8:07 on board of the Tohoku Shinkansen bound for Fukushima station (1h18).

• 9:46 Arrive at Fukushima station. Look for the Fukushima Tourist information center. Ask them about the bus bound for Jododaira, buy some food to snack on for lunch during your hike in Mt. Issaikyo.
• 11:30 Take the bus bound for Jododaira Visitor Center (Japanese website)
• Hike your way down to Takayu Onsen (5 hours and half)
• Before 19:00 Check-in at your ryokan in Takayu Onsen.

Access & Info

• The Volcano Trail in Bandai-Asahi National Park features iconic spots such as Mt. Issaikyo, the scenic Jododaira area, Mt. Adatara with Dake Onsen, Numajiri Onsen, Takayu Onsen, and numerous other hot springs nestled along the Azuma mountain range. This region, centered around the Azuma range and Mt. Bandai, enchants visitors with its dramatic volcanic landscapes, interspersed with lush forests and shimmering lakes that create a vibrant and ever-changing environment. Conveniently reachable from major cities, it attracts outdoor enthusiasts throughout the year who come to enjoy hiking, nature discovery, relaxing in hot springs, and winter sports. Preserving alpine flora that harks back to ancient times, and featuring volcanic terrains that continuously reshape the scenery, Bandai-Asahi National Park covers a vast territory including the Dewa Sanzan, the Asahi and Iide mountain ranges, the Azuma range, Mt. Bandai, and Lake Inawashiro. It ranks as Japan’s third largest national park by land area.
• About the Bandai-Asahi National Park : JNTO’s website
• Access info to Jododaira Visitor Center: Ministry of Environment’s English website
• Local tour provider: Tohoku Local Secret Tours

(D2) Sendai, Matsushima Islands

This day will allow you to rest after your long hike in the Volcano Trail. The Matsushima hiking trail is a slow, peaceful stroll around the pacific coast to discover the place that particularly moved Matsuo Basho during his trip to the Narrow End of the World.

• Take the bus from Takayu Onsen to Fukushima Station.
• From Fukushima Station, take the Tohoku Shinkansen and make a transfer at Sendai Station for the Senseki line to reach Matsushima Kaigan station (approximative transportation time: 1h30min).
• From there, explore the coast, visit the Godaido of Zuiganji Temple, hike the Fukuurajima Islet.
• Go back on your steps, visit the Zuiganji Temple. Have lunch around the port
• Explore the Ojima Islet.
• If you have more time in the afternoon, take a cruise ship tour with the Matsushima-shima meguri boat tours (timetable)
• Stay in one of the hotels in the Matsushima area (hotel list in English)

Access & Info

• Japan’s Three Scenic Views: Amanohashidate, Miyajima, and Matsushima
• Japan’s renowned Nihon Sankei—the Three Scenic Views—refer to Amanohashidate in Kyoto, Miyajima in Hiroshima, and Matsushima in Miyagi Prefecture. The concept dates back to the Edo period and is attributed to Hayashi Gahō, a Confucian scholar, who mentioned these sites in his historical work Nihon Kokujiko.Matsushima refers to the collection of over 260 islands scattered within and around Matsushima Bay. These islands were once hills that, due to tectonic shifts, sank so that only the hilltops remained above sea level, forming the islands seen today. Each island, regardless of size, carries its own name, including Niojima, Senganjima, Komonejima, Kanejima, Futagojima, Kaerujima, and Yoroi-jima.
• Beyond its breathtaking scenery, Matsushima has long been celebrated as a prime spot for moon viewing. Historical figures such as Date Masamune—the first lord of the Sendai domain—haiku poet Matsushima Basho, and even Albert Einstein reportedly visited the area to admire the moonlit vistas.
• Matsushima Tourist Information Website: Hands on Sendai-Matsushima’s website
• Local tour provider: Tohoku Local Secret Tours

(D3) Sendai, Hachinohe, Tanesashi

This day is mostly dedicated to transportation and will be your entrance gate to part of the Michinoku Coastal Trail — all while indulging in the flavors of Tohoku. After all, how better to fuel your body for the region’s scenic trails than with its delicious local specialties?

In Sendai, recharge with some much-needed carbs thanks to its signature treat: zunda mochi — pound rice cakes topped with a sweet edamame paste. Then head north to Aomori, where you can get your protein fix with the locals’ favorite: squid, served grilled or as fresh sashimi — the choice is yours!

• Depart from Matsushima station to reach Sendai station with the Tohoku Line (26 min.)
• From Sendai station, take the Tohoku Shinkansen bound for Shin-Aomori, but you will get off the train at Hachinohe Station (1h10min).
• Visit the famous Kabushima Shrine that overlooks the sea and walk your way to the Kaisekiryōridokoro Kofunato restaurant where you’ll find the many seafood dishes that make the reputation of Aomori Prefecture.
• In the afternoon, hike 1h30min down to Tanesashi’s Visitor Center to ask them what itinerary of the Michinoku Coastal trail fits your plans best. They’re the experts!
• Visit the Itsukushima Shrine (40 min walk from the Tanesashi Visitor Center, 3km)
• Go to Okuki station, take the train to Taneichi station (20min)
• Stay at Marin Side Spa Taneichi.

Access & Info

• The Michinoku Coastal Trail: A Path of Recovery and Beauty
• The Michinoku Coastal Trail is a key component of the Ministry of the Environment’s “Green Reconstruction Project,” established in response to the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami of 2011. Central to this effort to revitalize the Tohoku region was the creation of Sanriku Fukko (Reconstruction) National Park.
• Through the collaboration of the Ministry of the Environment, four prefectures, 29 municipalities, local communities, and private organizations, the trail was developed in stages over several years. On June 9, 2019, the entire trail—stretching over 1,000 kilometers from Kabushima in Hachinohe, Aomori Prefecture, to Matsukawaura in Soma, Fukushima Prefecture—was officially opened as a national trail.
• The Michinoku Coastal Trail offers stunning landscapes unique to the Pacific coast of Tohoku: sweeping views of the ocean, rivers, forests, and rural villages. The trail showcases the rich history, culture, and ways of life of communities living in harmony with nature, shaped by the region’s harsh yet abundant environment. Beyond its natural beauty, the trail is celebrated for the heartfelt connections forged between walkers and the people they meet along the way.
• Tanesashi Visitor Center’s website: Tanesashi’s website
• Michinoku Coastal Trail’s Information website: Michinoku Coastal Trail
• Local tour provider: Michinori Travel

(D4) Michinoku Coastal Trail (Taneichi to Kuji station), Morioka

This day will be busy with over 7 hours of walking along the coast from Taneichi to Kuji station.

Visit the Shirataki Shrine and the Samuraiishi viewpoints. Don’t skip the Yokonuma Observatory on the way.

Take the train at Kuji Station to go back to Hachinohe Station with the Hachinohe Line, to make a change for the Tohoku Shinkansen for Morioka (2h30min).

Have dinner inside Morioka station (note to foodies: Morioka’s staple dish is the Jajamen!)

Access & Info

• Michinoku Coastal Trail’s Information website: Taneichi to Kuji trail course
• Local tour provider: Michinori Travel

(D5) Yamadera, Tsuruoka

Yamadera is a charming temple (Risshakuji Temple) atop a mountain which has to be reached through a 1000 steps walk in the forest. It’s an “easy introduction” to what will be waiting for you on Mt. Haguro the next day (some people say it’s 3 times harder to complete Mt. Haguro than Yamadera). It takes roughly 1 hour to walk to Yamadera’s top, but we recommend you reserve 3 hours in the area to fully appreciate the several temples and Buddhist relics along the way.

• Depart early in the morning to reach Yamadera with the Tohoku shinkansen from Morioka station, from which you’ll have to make a transfer for the Senzan Line at Sendai station (2h30min).
• Start your visit of Yamadera before 10am.
• Once you’re done, have a bowl of ramen around Yamadera’s entrance point (but our favorite place is Enzo next to the Yamadera station)
• If you have extra energy (and time), we recommend you explore the Tarimizu ruins next to Yamadera. Please don’t attempt this if you’re running out of time, it’s an extra 1-3 hours hike depending on whether you want to hike it all or not.

From Yamadera Station, reach Yamagata station with the Senzan line (20min) and take the bus bound for Tsuruoka/Sakata from the bus stop in front of Yamagata station at 17:43 (1h 45min, bus timetable).

Get off the bus at S-Mall Bus Terminal, stay at Daiichi Hotel.

Access & Info

• Yamadera Temple: A Sacred Site Carved into Stone
• Yamadera Temple, officially known as Risshaku-ji, is believed to have been founded in December 860 by the Buddhist priest Ennin (Jikaku Daishi) under the orders of Emperor Seiwa. Perched on a steep mountainside, the temple offers breathtaking views that transform with the seasons, framed by dramatic rock formations and sheer cliffs, and is said to preserve the “flame that never ceased to burn”.
• Due to its historical connection with Mt. Hiei, the temple attracted merchants from the Omi region, which in turn helped spur the development of the safflower trade—a key industry in the area for centuries.
• Yamadera information: Japan Heritage Yamadera
• Local tour provider: Yamaderans Guide Association

(D6) Mt. Haguro, the Rokujurigoe Kaido Pilgrimage trail

• Take the bus from S-Mall bus terminal to Mt. Haguro (Haguro-Gassan Hachigome line).
• Get off the bus at Koganedomae.
• Knock on the door of the Shozen’in temple to ask for opening the doors of the Koganedo Hall (500 yen/person). Visit the Koganedo Hall.
• Walk to Zuishinmon gate (15 min).
• Hike Mt. Haguro (1h30min). It’s very cardio to reach the top, please be prepared!
• Have shojin-ryori lunch at Saikan (reservation needed, please ask reservation arrangements at Shoko Travel).
• Hike down to Kotakuji temple (45min.)
• Visit the Kotakuji temple.
• Walk to Honmyoji Temple
• Walk to Dainichibo Temple
• Walk to Minshuku Nanakamado
• Stay in Nanakamado

(D7) Mt. Yudono

• Walk the Rokujurigoe Kaido from Nanakamado (Tamugimata village) to Mt. Yudono (5 hours)
• Have lunch at Yudonosan Resthouse
• Take the Yudonosan-jinja Sanpai Shuttle Bus (300 yen/person round-trip, 10 min)
• Visit Mt. Yudono’s holy waters (500 yen/person)
• Take the shuttle bus back to Yudonosan Senninzawa.
• 16:30 Take the bus back to Tsuruoka
• End of your trip, you can go back to Tokyo via Niigata with the Uetsu Line (Inaho Express) then the Joetsu Shinkansen. Last train departs from Tsuruoka station at 20:44.

Thank you for reading this sample itinerary in the Tohoku region!
We hope it inspired you with fresh hiking ideas and encouraged you to explore Japan beyond the usual tourist routes. Please note that this itinerary is just a suggested example—it may not suit every traveler depending on individual interests, travel dates, or budget. We recommend researching each destination thoroughly before planning your trip, and making reservations on your own or through a trusted travel agency.

In 2014, Tsuruoka proudly became the first city in Japan to be recognized as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. This title celebrates the deep-rooted connection between our land, our people, and our food. It honors the dedication of local farmers who have preserved the unique flavors of over 50 heirloom crops (zairaisakumotsu 在来作物), passed down through generations. It also highlights the rich culinary heritage that continues to inspire chefs to craft innovative dishes, blending time-honored traditions with modern creativity.

Now that we’ve whetted your appetite—what and where can you truly taste the essence of Tsuruoka’s gastronomy?

Where to eat?

(Open the map in a new tab to see each category. Warning: this list is non-exhaustive, there are many other delicious places hidden across the city!)

What to eat?

Dewa Sanzan’s Shojin-ryori

 Shojin-ryori, like all of Tsuruoka’s traditional cuisine, is deeply rooted in the rhythms of the seasons. The ingredients and flavors change throughout the year, offering a different experience depending on when you sit down to eat.

From late April to mid-May, the spotlight is on fresh mountain vegetables (sansai 山菜). You might enjoy kogomi (ostrich fern) served as crisp tempura or urui (plantain lily) dressed in a sweet-and-sour miso sauce. In summer, the focus shifts to vegetables grown in the fertile Shonai plains—eggplants, tomatoes, and the beloved dadachamame, a local variety of edamame. Autumn brings a bounty of wild mushrooms: tempura made with maitake (hen-of-the-woods) or a hearty miso and sake-lees soup featuring simmered shiitake. Winter relies on preserved mountain vegetables, carefully rehydrated and cooked into warming, salty dishes that bring new life to the foraged harvests of earlier months.

One element remains constant throughout the year: goma dofu (胡麻豆腐), or sesame tofu. A signature of Dewa Sanzan’s shojin-ryori, this dish requires nearly four hours to prepare. The sesame seeds are ground and pressed by hand to extract their rich juice, which is then energically cooked and set until it forms a smooth, delicate jelly. It’s typically served with a sweet, glossy soy-based sauce called ankake, and is beloved for both its subtle flavor and its silky texture.

Dewa Sanzan’s shojin-ryori is not vegan by default!

Shojin-ryori on the Dewa Sanzan has evolved over the centuries. Originally a vegan Buddhist cuisine, it has since incorporated elements of Shinto practice. For instance, the miso soup often includes dashi made with bonito flakes, and some shukubo (pilgrims’ lodgings) may even serve fish as part of their meals.
This shift stems from the historical conversion of the Dewa Sanzan to Shinto in 1869, following the 1868 Shinbutsu Bunri law that mandated the separation of Buddhism and Shinto.
If you require a fully vegan Shojin-ryori meal, we recommend either requesting lunch at a Buddhist temple such as Gyokusenji or making a special request directly to your shukubo at least three days prior to your visit.

Where to eat?

-In Tamonkan, a ryokan (traditional Japanese accommodation) located in Mt. Haguro’s Shukubogai.

-In Shukubo lodges that belong to the Dewa Sanzan Shojin-Ryori Project (mainly on Mt. Haguro + Yudonosan Sanrojo in Mt. Yudono + Busshoike Goya on Mt. Gassan).

-In Gyokusenji Temple (upon request as well). This is the only place where the shojin-ryori is vegan by default, as it is served in a Buddhist Temple.

Most places need a prior reservation to your visit. Our local travel agencies can help you make a reservation. Contact us.

☞　Look for the “Dewa Sanzan Shojin-Ryori” category on our culinary map

Seafood: fugu (blowfish), sushi & sashimi, fish soups…

Tsuruoka’s proximity to the coast grants it daily access to an abundance of fresh fish, shellfish, and seaweeds, which have sustained its people for generations. But what truly sets Tsuruoka’s seafood apart is a unique natural and spiritual connection to the mountains that tower above it.

For centuries, locals believed that the melting snow from Mt. Gassan—the highest and holiest of the Dewa Sanzan—carried sacred minerals from its pristine summits down through mountain streams and rivers, eventually flowing into the Sea of Japan. This nutrient-rich water was thought to nourish the coastal waters, giving rise to vibrant marine life. This spiritual ecology shaped not only how the region’s people viewed their food, but also how they prepared and appreciated it—with deep reverence for nature’s cycles.

Summer seafood: squids and rock oysters

Autumn seafood: sandfish and sweet shrimps

Winter seafood: Fugu, anglerfish and black cod

Spring seafood: seabreams and trouts

Where to eat?

-In sushi restaurants (there are so many of them in central Tsuruoka but also along the coast of the Sea of Japan!)

-In kaiseki-ryori type of restaurants. They are the best places to eat refined fish dishes. Most of them require a reservation, please check beforehand.

-In ryokan and onsen for dinner as part of a stay plan.

-In Okimizuki, the restaurant inside the Kamo Aquarium.

☞　Look for the “Sushi” and “Seafood” categories on our culinary map

Farmer cuisine

Tsuruoka’s cuisine has earned recognition from UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network, thanks largely to its unique agricultural practices—such as yakihata (slash-and-burn farming), heirloom seed preservation techniques, and the traditional “shibunuki” method used to remove the bitterness from Shonai persimmons using alcohol or carbonated water to enhance their sweetness. What better place to experience the fruits of these time-honored efforts than at a farmer-run restaurant?

Moso bamboo soup (moso-jiru 孟宗汁)

Imoni yam soup (芋煮)

Tsukemono pickled ingredients (漬物)

Where to eat?

-In minshuku, minpaku, nohaku types of traditional farmer lodgings

-For Moso-bamboo soup : Yutagawa Onsen’s ryokans are the best place to be!

-In Naa, Chikeiken or other farmer restaurants

☞　Look for the “Farmer food” category on our culinary map

French/Italian fusion cuisine

While visiting the Japanese countryside might not seem like the ideal setting to enjoy Italian cuisine, if you find yourself craving a break from Japanese food, we invite you to try our unique fusion of European and local flavors. Many of our chefs are masters at incorporating heirloom crops into refined Italian and French-inspired dishes, offering you delicious European cuisine with a unique touch of Tsuruoka-ness in every bite!

Where to eat?

-In “Pino Collina”, the restaurant inside Matsugaoka’s Reclamation Lands (also known as “the Samurai Silk Farms”). Pino Collina produces its own wine.

-In Al-che-cciano, restaurant of chef Okuta, one of the 1000 best Chefs in the World in 2006 by the Italian Slow Food Contest “Terra Madre”, and ranked 3rd at the contest The Vegetarian Chance in 2016.

-In Yunohama Onsen’s “Yunohama 100 Years Kitchen”

-In Tsuruoka central city’s restaurants: La Naturalité (French), Pomme de Terre (Basque/French cuisine), Jour Faste (French/fusion), Hare to ke (Italian/fusion)…

And many more!

☞　Look for the “Italian/French restaurants” categories on our culinary map

Local sweets: sasamaki, Tsuruoka hinagashi, mochi, fruit deserts…

Tsuruoka is not just about vegetables and pickles—it’s also a hidden gem for traditional sweets. In spring, during the month of Hinamatsuri (Girls’ Day) in March, local confectionery shops create Tsuruoka Hinagashi, the region’s unique take on the colorful festival treats. Unlike the typical hard candies seen elsewhere, Tsuruoka’s hinagashi are soft, delicate cakes made with anko (sweet bean paste) and shaped to represent local ingredients such as moso bamboo, Shonai persimmons, and cherries.

Another local specialty is sasamaki—a gelatinous steamed rice cake wrapped in a bamboo leaf. The rice is first soaked in water mixed with ashes, a traditional technique that extends its shelf life. It’s typically enjoyed with brown sugar syrup and kinako (roasted soy flour).

Manju are also a must-try when visiting Tsuruoka’s hot springs, especially those from Yutagawa Onsen. Some are even humorously shaped like breasts, paying homage to the village’s sacred Breasted Ginkgo Tree (Chichi Icho 乳銀杏), which stands in front of Yuzusame Shrine.

Finally, tochimochi—mochi made from local horse chestnuts—is a delicacy that takes real effort to prepare. The chestnuts must be boiled thoroughly to remove their natural bitterness, and the mochi rice is soaked for hours in cold water after being cooked so it can be pounded. The result is a treat that blends sweetness and umami in every bite. There are so many unique, delicious sweets across Tsuruoka that it’d be impossible to list them all down, but check the local confectionery shops (wagashiya 和菓子屋) or souvenir shops and you’ll see them all!

Where to eat?

-In our “wagashiya” (Traditional confectionery shops)

-In souvenir shops

-Sasamaki = in From Tei’s restaurant or Asahi Gu (depends on the season)

And many more!

☞　Look for the “Traditional Japanese sweets” categories on our culinary map

Of course, these are just a few highlights from Tsuruoka’s rich and diverse culinary culture. Across the city, you’ll find countless restaurants—each with their own specialties and stories—carrying on these traditions with pride and creativity. Whether you’re dining at a farmer-run eatery, a family-owned confectionery, or a refined local restaurant, Tsuruoka offers an authentic taste of Japan’s first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy.

Why do tattoos have such a bad image in Japan?

Tattoos have a long and complex history in Japan. Surprisingly, there was a time when they were embraced as a form of fashion. During the Edo period in particular, tattoos became popular among commoners, and a vibrant culture of body art emerged.

At the same time, however, there was also a form of punishment known as irezumi-kei, where tattoos were forcibly applied to criminals to mark their offenses.

Because of this dual history, tattoos in Japan came to symbolize both personal expression and criminality. In the 18th century, the Edo shogunate banned tattooing as punishment, and the Meiji government later imposed strict regulations on tattooing altogether.

From that point on, tattoos became increasingly hidden from public view and began to carry a strong stigma, seen as something negative or undesirable, mostly used by marginal groups (and even violent groups) to signify their will to dissociate from society.

Why, then, are tattoos often prohibited at hot springs and public baths in Japan? One reason is historical—tattoos were once associated with criminal punishment.

This created a lingering negative perception of tattoos that persists today. “Tattoos = criminal/violent person”.

Because hot springs are places where people expose their skin, many facilities still restrict entry to those with tattoos, out of concern for how they might make other guests feel.

However, attitudes toward tattoos are gradually changing across Japan. More and more places now recognize that tattoos are no longer just a symbol of criminality—they’ve become a form of fashion, a means of self-expression, and even a deeply personal or spiritual symbol for many people.

Tsuruoka is no exception. Here too, you’ll find onsen that welcome guests with tattoos. We’d be happy to introduce you to them (non-exhaustive list).

1. Komaginoyu こまぎの湯

This community daytime onsen (no stay plan) is beloved by the local for its “beauty properties” on the skin!

The Komaginoyu hot spring, sourced from 1,500 meters underground features two large communal baths, the facility features a sit-down bath, a Japanese garden-style outdoor bath, and the largest sauna in the prefecture, accommodating up to 30 people. It’s a well-equipped day-use hot spring perfect for soothing your travel fatigue or treating yourself to a daily indulgence.

The source water is heated and diluted, but no circulation or filtration systems are used for the main baths. However, the massage baths are heated and do use circulation and filtration systems.

Properties

Spring Quality
Sodium-calcium sulfate spring

Health Benefits
Effective for: arteriosclerosis, cuts, burns, chronic skin conditions, neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain, motor paralysis, joint stiffness, bruises, sprains, chronic digestive disorders, hemorrhoids, sensitivity to cold, frozen shoulder, recovery after illness, fatigue recovery, and overall health promotion.
(Due to the high temperature of the source water, it is diluted with cold water.)

How to visit

Operating Hours
　6:00 AM – 9:00 PM (Last entry: 8:30 PM)
　Closed: Second Wednesday of each month

Day-Use Admission Fees

• Adults (Junior high school and up): ¥650
• Children (Elementary school students): ¥270
• Free for preschool-aged children and younger
  ※ Mixed bathing is not permitted for elementary school-aged children and older.

Bus stop nearby:

Komaginoyu こまぎの湯 (Tsuruoka City Local Bus C, bus timetable)

2. Yamabushi Onsen “Yupoka” やまぶし温泉ゆぽか

Yupoka is a popular community day-use onsen, cherished by locals for its therapeutic waters. Conveniently located between Mt. Haguro and the Matsugaoka Reclamation Land (the silk farms of the Samurai Silk, a Japan Heritage), it’s the perfect place to unwind after a strenuous hike up Mt. Haguro’s famous stone steps. The facility features multiple rest rooms that can be reserved for a quick nap or a fun karaoke session with friends and family. There’s also a small shop selling groceries and souvenirs, as well as a cozy cafeteria known for its delicious ramen.

Properties

Spring Quality

Sodium-Calcium Chloride Spring

Health Benefits
Minor cuts, burns, chronic skin conditions, weak constitution in children, chronic gynecological disorders, neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain, frozen shoulder, motor paralysis, joint stiffness, bruises, sprains, chronic digestive issues, hemorrhoids, sensitivity to cold, recovery from illness, fatigue recovery, and general health promotion.

Contraindications (Conditions and symptoms for which bathing should be avoided)
Acute illnesses (especially with fever), active tuberculosis, malignant tumors, serious heart conditions, respiratory failure, renal failure, bleeding disorders, severe anemia, other progressive general illnesses, and pregnancy (especially in the early and late stages).

How to visit

Hours of Operation
Bathing: 6:00 AM – 10:00 PM (Last entry: 9:20 PM)
Cafeteria:

• Lunch: 11:00 AM – 2:30 PM
• Dinner (Saturday, Sunday, and holidays): 5:00 PM – 8:30 PM (Last order: 8:00 PM)
  Large Hall: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
  Private Rest Rooms (8 and 12 tatami mats): 9:00 AM – 9:30 PM (Reservation required)
  Multi-purpose Room: 9:00 AM – 10:00 PM (Reservation required)

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Usage Fees
Bathing

• Adults: ¥450, Elementary school children and under: ¥220

Large Rest Hall Ticket

• Adults: ¥200, Children: ¥100
• Private Rest Rooms
• From ¥1,200 (2 hours) to ¥1,600+ ¥250 for every additional 30 minutes

Multi-purpose Room

• 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM: ¥1,000 (per hour)+ ¥500 (for every additional 30 minutes)
• 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM: ¥1,500 (per hour)+ ¥750 (for every additional 30 minutes)

Bus stop nearby: Yupoka (Bus bound for Mt. Haguro: bus timetable)

3. Yaotome 八乙女 in Yura Onsen 由良温泉

At Yaotome, hospitality begins the moment you step into the lobby—echoing the spirit of the eight maidens who once welcomed Prince Hachiko with heartfelt care.
Nestled along the scenic coast of Shonai, our hotel offers sweeping views of the Sea of Japan, where golden sunsets paint the shoreline.
Unwind in their Roman-style open-air bath or soothe your senses in the sauna, all while gazing out at the beachside horizon. Yura Onsen was selected as Japan’s 100 most beautiful sunsets and 100 most beautiful beaches, and Yaotome is the perfect place to admire both these amazing views. More about Yura Onsen

Properties

Spring Quality

Sodium-Calcium Sulfate Hot Spring (Hypotonic, mildly alkaline)

Health Benefits

This mildly alkaline sodium-calcium sulfate hot spring, with a source temperature of 58°C, is known to support relief from chronic muscle and joint pain or stiffness—including conditions like arthritis, neuralgia, and lower back pain—as well as aid in recovery from bruises and sprains. It also promotes circulation, helps with cold sensitivity, digestive discomfort, mild hypertension, diabetes, and high cholesterol. Guests may also find relief from mild asthma, hemorrhoid pain, and stress-related issues such as insomnia or low mood. The spring further supports recovery during convalescence, fatigue relief, skin hydration, and overall health and wellness.

How to visit

This onsen doesn’t offer daytime bathing services, but welcomes guests from all around the world to stay for the night! Here’s their website (in Japanese) : http://yaotome.in.net/; you can also book on Booking.com.

Bus stop nearby: Yura Onsen (bus bound for Atsumi Onsen: bus timetable)

4. Book a private bath “kashikiri-buro” 貸切風呂 in Yutagawa Onsen 湯田川温泉

Surrounded by lush nature and steeped in warm local hospitality, the historic hot spring village of Yutagawa Onsen welcomes visitors year-round. With a history spanning over 1,300 years, Yutagawa was officially designated as a “National Hot Spring Health Resort” by Japan’s Ministry of the Environment in 2001—a recognition given to hot spring areas with exceptional waters, serene natural settings, and well-maintained facilities.

Yutagawa is best known as a traditional “toji” (therapeutic retreat) destination, where visitors come not only to relax but to heal. According to legend, the spring was discovered in the year 712 when a wounded white heron healed its injuries in the waters—earning Yutagawa the poetic nickname Shirasagi no Yu (Heron’s Bath). Its sulfate-rich waters, gushing at an impressive 1,000 liters per minute, are particularly effective for treating arteriosclerosis, cuts, burns, and other skin ailments. The spring is also said to have calming effects and may help lower blood pressure.

Yutagawa is also home to a rare cultural tradition called Ushitoji—a midsummer ritual where people bathe on the Day of the Ox in late July, believed to ensure good health for the coming year. As part of this tradition, a purification ceremony is held at the sacred Yuzusame Shrine, where the local Yutagawa Onsen Kagura (sacred Shinto music and dance) is performed both at the shrine and at select inns by reservation.

Most ryokan in Yutagawa Onsen are cozy, family-run inns that offer private bathing options known as kashikiri-buro (貸切風呂). These intimate baths can be reserved on the spot, allowing you and your companions to enjoy the healing waters of Yutagawa in complete privacy—no need to worry about tattoos or sharing the space with strangers. Not every ryokan offers this service, so here’s a list of those that do:

-Kuhe : a luxurious ryokan that allows tattooed guests to book its kashikiri-buro but not its communal bath. English website

-Tamaya : a cozy ryokan that possesses three kashikiri-buro, some of them giving the best views on the Shonai plains. English website

-Masuya : a comfortable, stylish ryokan with three kashikiri-buro and a beautiful chanoma lounge. English website

-Tsukasaya : a heartwarming, cozy ryokan with the best local sake tasting dinners that also has two kashikiri-buro. English website

-Ridayu : another cozy ryokan that possesses a kashikiri-buro. Ridayu Ryokan’s motto? “Pure hot spring water, locally sourced cuisine, and heartfelt hospitality — these are what make us special.”

How to go to Yutagawa Onsen

Take the bus bound for Yutagawa Onsen from Tsuruoka Station or S-MALL Bus Terminal, get off the bus at Yutagawa Onsen (bus timetable)

Have more ideas of things to do in Yutagawa Onsen.

Thank you for reading our guide to tattoo-friendly onsen and ryokan in Tsuruoka. While some facilities may still have restrictions, we hope this information helps you find a warm welcome and a relaxing soak during your stay. Tsuruoka is a place of deep hospitality, tradition, and healing waters—and we hope your time here is as memorable as it is rejuvenating.

Shōgin TACT Tsuruoka opened in 2018 as a hub for culture and the arts in Tsuruoka City.
The main hall uses a vineyard-style seating arrangement, creating an immersive space with excellent acoustics and visibility. It is equipped to host a wide range of concerts, performing arts, and events.

This cultural hall, rebuilt as a base for local cultural and artistic activities, features a design centered around a fly tower, with a cluster of smaller roofs breaking up the building’s overall mass. These segmented roofs gradually lower toward the outer edges, with the structure becoming single-story along the roadside. This design aims to harmonize with the surrounding townscape, which includes historic buildings (the neighboring Chido Clan School) and residential houses.

How to visit

Address:
11-61 Babachō, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture

Access:

• By Bus: About 10 minutes from JR Tsuruoka Station; get off at Tsuruoka Shiyakushomae, 1-minute walk
• Bus timetable (many bus lines stop at this bus stop, bus this is the clearest English timetable)

Opening Hours:
9:00 AM – 7:00 PM *Until 10:00 PM on event days

Closed: Year-end/New Year holidays (December 29 – January 3)

Notes:
Wi-Fi available in the entrance area

In 1669, the Oyama domain became tenryo (shogunate-controlled land). Around that time, there were as many as 40 sake breweries operating in the area. Historical documents from the period remain, recording the names of the brewery owners and the amount of sake they produced (measured in the traditional koku unit).

Oyama was home to a unique guild of sake brewers known as the Ōyama Tōji. These master brewers not only traveled to work at breweries across the Tohoku region, but also attracted young apprentices from sake-producing families in Tohoku and Echigo (present-day Niigata), who came to train in Ōyama.

While it is common in many regions for farmers to work as seasonal brewers during the winter months, Oyama was different. Until around the early Showa period (1920’s, 1930’s), the sake industry here was supported mainly by craftsmen—carpenters, plasterers, and others—whose own work slowed during the winter season.

Oyama itself was like a town of artisans, with neighborhoods such as coppersmiths, woodworkers, carpenters, blacksmiths, and dyers. These craftsmen lived and worked in close-knit communities, constantly sharing knowledge, refining their techniques, and taking pride in their work. This diligent and cooperative spirit is said to have been the foundation of Oyama’s rich sake-brewing tradition.

Visit the Dewa No Yuki Museum and have a taste at the end of the experience of a selection of three sakes picked by the shop’s worker.

How to visit

Open from 8:45 to 16:30

200 yen/person. English explanation about the exhibition available on your phone by scanning the QR codes!

Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Shogin Mae 大山荘銀前 (bus timetable)

Location on Google maps

Website (in Japanese)

The factory itself needs a prior reservation (form) to be visited (for free), but the shop is still a good stop to make with its huge variety of tsukemono (Japanese pickled/marinated vegetables).

Honcho has been in business for over 100 years in Oyama, Tsuruoka.
Since its founding, it has remained committed to using vegetables grown locally in Yamagata, along with sake lees sourced from the Shonai region. Guided by its company motto—“Making the most of Shonai’s natural bounty to enrich food culture for all”—Honcho has continued to produce pickles using the same traditional methods passed down through generations. Tsukemono are a very important part of Tsuruoka’s gastronomy, counting as one of the city’s many methods of “food preservation” (hozonshoku 保存食) that helped the people feed on nutritious food during the harsh winters.

By continuing to use local vegetables, it aims to support and promote regional agriculture. At the same time, it is also exploring new forms of pickles that go beyond conventional boundaries, a reflect of Tsuruoka’s UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy title.

How to visit

Location: 1-7-7 Ōyama, Tsuruoka City
Phone: +81235-33-2023
Access: 20 minutes by bus from Tsuruoka Station toward Yunohama
Get off at “Oyama Shonaiginkomae” and walk 10 minutes
Hours: 8:30 AM – 4:30 PM (Reservation required)
Closed: Open year-round (No holidays)
Fee: Free of charge
Official Website: http://www.k-honcho.co.jp/

One reason some travelers find Tsuruoka a bit confusing is that the city encompasses a wide area with many outlying neighborhoods (or “suburbs”) and former villages. As shown on the map above, Tsuruoka is divided into six administrative districts, each containing various suburban areas—some of which are still referred to as “villages” in English. Oyama falls within the “Central Tsuruoka” district, although its location isn’t exactly central, as you can see. While not technically in Oyama, several of Tsuruoka’s main tourist attractions are located nearby—such as Zenpoji Temple and, along the coast, the Kamo Aquarium—both just an 8-minute drive away.

Oyama can be reached by bus with the bus bound for Yunohama Onsen via Kamo Aquarium (bus timetable) OR the bus bound for Yunohama Onsen via Zenpoji Temple (bus timetable). They are not the same, don’t mistake them!

So, once you’re there, what’s to do in Oyama?

1. The Honcho Pickles factory 本長

While the factory itself needs a prior reservation (form) to be visited (for free), the shop is still a good stop to make with its huge variety of tsukemono (Japanese pickled/marinated vegetables).

Honcho has been in business for over 100 years in Oyama, Tsuruoka.
Since its founding, it has remained committed to using vegetables grown locally in Yamagata, along with sake lees sourced from the Shonai region. Guided by its company motto—“Making the most of Shonai’s natural bounty to enrich food culture for all”—Honcho has continued to produce pickles using the same traditional methods passed down through generations. Tsukemono are a very important part of Tsuruoka’s gastronomy, counting as one of the city’s many methods of “food preservation” (hozonshoku 保存食) that helped the people feed on nutritious food during the harsh winters.

By continuing to use local vegetables, it aims to support and promote regional agriculture. At the same time, it is also exploring new forms of pickles that go beyond conventional boundaries, a reflect of Tsuruoka’s UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy title.

Our recommendation?

Minden eggplants (small, round local eggplants) pickled in karashi (Japanese mustard), a dish called “minden nasu no karashi-zuke” “民田茄子の辛子漬”. They are very spicy, but once you acquire the taste, those little eggplants make the perfect appetizers to accompany your meals. Appreciate them with some Chardonnay-type of white wine to counterbalance the mustard’s vivid spiciness with the wine’s soft tanginess, or pair them with some creamy, round-taste junmai sake (pure-rice non polished). Those powerful little eggplants will be something you’ll crave over and over again.

How to visit

Upon reservation at +81235-33-2023 (Japanese only). Open from 8:30 to 16:30

Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Shogin Mae 大山荘銀前 (bus timetable)

Location on Google maps

Website (in Japanese)

2. Watarai’s sake brewery and their sake museum: Dewa no Yuki Shiryokan 出羽ノ雪酒造資料館

In 1669, the Oyama domain became tenryo (shogunate-controlled land). Around that time, there were as many as 40 sake breweries operating in the area. Historical documents from the period remain, recording the names of the brewery owners and the amount of sake they produced (measured in the traditional koku unit).

Oyama was home to a unique guild of sake brewers known as the Ōyama Tōji. These master brewers not only traveled to work at breweries across the Tohoku region, but also attracted young apprentices from sake-producing families in Tohoku and Echigo (present-day Niigata), who came to train in Ōyama.

While it is common in many regions for farmers to work as seasonal brewers during the winter months, Oyama was different. Until around the early Showa period (1920’s, 1930’s), the sake industry here was supported mainly by craftsmen—carpenters, plasterers, and others—whose own work slowed during the winter season.

Oyama itself was like a town of artisans, with neighborhoods such as coppersmiths, woodworkers, carpenters, blacksmiths, and dyers. These craftsmen lived and worked in close-knit communities, constantly sharing knowledge, refining their techniques, and taking pride in their work. This diligent and cooperative spirit is said to have been the foundation of Oyama’s rich sake-brewing tradition.

Visit the Dewa No Yuki Museum and have a taste at the end of the experience of a selection of three sakes picked by the shop’s worker.

Our recommendation?

While the museum features QR codes that display English information on your cellphone (connection to internet required), we recommend you use the help of a local guide to help you navigate in the complex world of sake and grasp all the richness of agriculture in the Shonai region. Send a mail to our interpreter-guide association: Chat-Chat!

Chat-Chat Tsuruoka’s Interpreter-Guides Association’s Website

How to visit

Open from 8:45 to 16:30

200 yen/person. English explanation about the exhibition available on your phone by scanning the QR codes!

Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Shogin Mae 大山荘銀前 (bus timetable)

Location on Google maps

Website (in Japanese)

3. The Kamiike, Shimoike lakes and its nearby nature-preservation center: Hotoria ほとりあ

Takadate Mountain and its surrounding lakes Oyama Kami-ike & Shimo-ike’s Wetlands
Takadate Mountain and its surrounding area, including Kami-ike (Upper Lake) and Shimo-ike (Lower Lake), are designated as bird and wildlife protection zones under the Ramsar Convention. The region, part of the Shonai Coastal Prefectural Nature Park, features a rare beech forest and a rich mix of cold- and warm-climate plants, making it a unique ecosystem.

A Haven for Wild Birds
The Upper and Lower Ponds are vital wintering grounds for migratory waterfowl, including 20,000 to 30,000 mallards, as well as Eurasian Teals and Smews. Swans, such as the Whooper Swan, and geese like the Greater White-fronted Goose also frequent the area. Additionally, small birds like the Yellow-breasted Bunting and Common Redpoll pass through during migration. The best place to spot birds around the Shimoike Lake is the Oura Bird Lovers’ Hall おうら愛鳥館.

Diverse Flora and Fauna
The ponds are home to rare dragonfly species like the Violet Dropwing and Giant Darner, as well as various butterfly species. The area boasts a wide variety of trees, including Horse Chestnut and Maple, along with plants native to the Sea of Japan, such as Marsh Wisteria and Yellow Columbine.

Lotus Flowers
In July, lotus flowers bloom in the Upper Pond, reaching their peak in August. Local residents harvest the flowers during the Obon festival, offering them at the altar to honor ancestors.

Birds species present around the lakes (excerpt)

マガモ – Mallard/wild duck

コガモ – Eurasian Teal (or Common Teal)

ホシハジロ – Common Pochard

カワウ – Great Cormorant

ジョウビタキ – Daurian Redstart

ヒヨドリ – Brown-eared Bulbul

カルガモ – Eastern Spot-billed Duck

And many more!

How to visit

Hotoria’s Opening Hours
9:00 AM – 4:30 PM

Closed
Every Tuesday / Year-end and New Year holidays (December 29 – January 3)
※ If Tuesday falls on a national holiday, the museum will be closed on the nearest weekday following that day (that is not a holiday).
※ Please refer to the “Event Newsletter” for details on closed days.

Admission
Free

Parking

• 15 regular cars
• 2 spaces for visitors with disabilities
  ※ The Oyama Park parking lot is also available (40 spaces for regular cars / large vehicles accepted)
  ※ Please note: Roads around the facility are narrow, making two-way traffic difficult, and include tight turns. For this reason, large buses should avoid long-term parking and instead use the Oyama Park parking lot. Thank you for your cooperation.

You can walk around the lakes regardless of Hotoria’s open hours! Just make sure of the weather conditions beforehand and do not try to hike if the weather conditions are dangerous.

Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Umamachi 大山馬町 (bus timetable)

Location on Google maps

Website (in Japanese)

4. Fukudaya’s kakigori (in summer) and confectioneries 福田屋

No visit to Oyama is complete without a sweet little indulgence—and Fukudaya is the perfect spot. Whether you stop by in the morning or afternoon, this beloved local shop is always a good idea.

Fukudaya offers a delightful selection of Japanese and Western sweets, ideal as gifts or to enjoy with a cup of tea. Take a break in the cozy café and sample local favorites like the gently sweet imo yokan (sweet potato jelly) and refreshing sake jelly made with sake from Tsuruoka’s Ōyama district. In the summer, their fluffy kakigori (shaved ice with syrup) is a crowd-pleaser.

Weekends bring out special treats like the Canelé de Bordeaux, and don’t miss the choux filled with cream only after you order—crispy, creamy, and made to impress.

How to visit

Address: Nakamichi-139-21 Oyama, Tsuruoka, Yamagata 997-1121

Open hours: from 9am to 6pm (may vary)

Closed on undetermined days

Kakigori served between June to September (may vary) from 10am to 5pm (orders must be place before 4:30pm if customers want to eat inside). Sales stop until the shop runs out of syrup.
Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Kamihonmachi 大山上本町 (bus timetable)

Location on Google maps

Facebook page (in Japanese)

5. Oyama Park　大山公園

Oyama Park is one of the many famous cherry blossom spots in Tsuruoka city.

It features walking trails, rest pavilions, and can be explored in about an hour. With views over the Shonai Plain and distant peaks like Mt. Gassan and Mt. Chokai—especially majestic during snowmelt season—the park is a beloved local spot for nature and history lovers.

Oyama Park is also home to the ruins of Oura Castle, once the residence of the warlord Muto during the Sengoku period. In the late Edo period, over 800 cherry and peach trees were planted here in gratitude for the village’s escape from harsh punishment after the “Oyama Uprising.” This marked the beginning of the park’s reputation as a cherry blossom destination.

Each spring, peach blossoms, magnolias, weeping cherries, Somei Yoshino, and double-flowered cherry trees bloom in succession.

How to visit

Cherry blossoms usually bloom 3/4 days later than in Tsuruoka Park (see our cherry blossom spotting article here), normally early to mid-April

Bus stop name nearby: Oyama Kouenguchi 大山公園口 (bus timetable)

Location on Google maps

Website (in Japanese)

6. Oyama’s Dog Festival (Inu Matsuri) – June 5th　大山犬祭り

One of Shonai’s three major festivals, this event has a 300-year history rooted in the legend of the “Mekke Dog,” a legendary dog said to have defeated a shape-shifting creature (mujina) that once haunted the mountain behind Sugi-no-o Shrine. The festival features traditional processions, including a dog-shaped mikoshi (portable shrine), a parade with a kari-nyōbō (a young woman offered as a sacrifice to the creature), and vibrant karaguri floats with mechanical puppets.

Read more about the legend behind the festival

Bonus : Technically-not-Oyama-but-very-close:

7. Zenpoji Temple

Know more about Zenpoji

8. Kamo Aquarium

Know more about Kamo Aquarium

9. Yunohama Onsen

Know more about Yunohama Onsen

All the places on one map (Google Maps)

This charming farm-to-table restaurant is owned by the warm-hearted Japanese proprietor, Mrs. Chonan Mitsu. Recognized for her thoughtful approach to food, Mitsu was honored in the “100 Best Farmer-Lodge Okaasan” by the Japanese government in 2009. Central to her philosophy is the cultivation of vegetables and rice on her own farm, ensuring the highest quality of ingredients for her customers. Mitsu staunchly avoids additives, relying instead on natural elements to enhance the flavors of local cuisine.

By exclusively preparing local dishes with homegrown vegetables, Mitsu aims to impart the allure of Tsuruoka’s rustic traditions to her patrons. Notably, Mitsu is adept at adapting her meals for vegans and vegetarians. It is advisable to inform her of any dietary restrictions, specifically regarding animal products, including bonito powder, when making a reservation (動物性食品, dôbutsusei-shokuhin).

Shinchaya is a long-standing traditional Japanese cuisine restaurant known for its exceptional culinary offerings. The signature dish of the establishment is the “tamagoyaki” (rolled omelet). What sets Shinchaya’s tamagoyaki apart is its lustrous sheen and its soft, jelly-like texture.

For guests with specific dietary preferences, Shinchaya is flexible and can accommodate pescetarian, vegetarian, and vegan meals with advance reservation, preferably up to 2 days prior to your planned visit. This ensures that the restaurant can tailor the dining experience to meet individual dietary needs.

Saikan is a Shinto pilgrim lodge and lunch restaurant located within the premises of the former Buddhist temple called Shôon’in, constructed in 1697. After the religious separation between Shinto and Buddhism in 1868 (1869 in Haguro), the building underwent conversion to Shintoism and was renamed Saikan.

A significant site for Shinto yamabushi during their retreat training, Saikan plays a crucial role in various ceremonies. For instance, it serves as the location where the yamabushi concludes the Shoreisai ceremony by partaking in the Nishi sushi.

Chef Ito Shinkichi presents his interpretation of Dewa Sanzan shojin-ryori daily, offering a Shinto version of the originally Buddhist dish. This culinary endeavor aims to pay homage to the magnificence of nature. While shojin-ryori can be prepared as a vegan dish, it is essential to notify Chef Ito Shinkichi three days in advance if you have specific dietary preferences.

Okimizuki is the restaurant situated within Kamo Aquarium, recognized as the largest jellyfish-themed aquarium globally. The establishment is led by Suda Takeshi, a seafood chef renowned for his exceptional skills in preparing sole sashimi and his expertise in handling fugu fish (blowfish).

Chef Suda holds the national diploma required for safely cooking fugu fish for patrons, ensuring there is no risk for those tempted by this renowned delicacy. Among Chef Suda’s notable creations is the fugu sashimi artfully arranged into the shape of a crane, showcasing his culinary mastery.

In addition to his expertise in seafood, Chef Suda is celebrated for his innovative approach to Tsuruoka’s traditional dishes, incorporating them into modern menus. One such creation is the Kitamaebune Gozen menu, introduced in 2021. This menu pays homage to the culinary discoveries and innovations brought to Tsuruoka by merchants sailing along the Kitamae maritime road from the 18th century to the early 20th century.

Naa is a quaint restaurant tucked behind a farm, offering a unique dining experience. The proprietors utilize organic vegetables primarily cultivated on the farm. The restaurant’s interior reflects the typical style of the 80s in Japan, providing a nostalgic ambiance. From inside, patrons can enjoy a panoramic view of Mt. Gassan and Mt. Kinbo.

For those eager to savor Tsuruoka’s delectable vegetable cuisine in a setting reminiscent of a Japanese family meal, a visit to Naa is highly recommended. Lunch menus begin at 990 yen, while dinner options start at 3,000 yen.