This annual festival takes place during October (specific dates may vary) at the Shonai Shrine. Attendees have the opportunity to witness historical reenactments and religious ceremonies that pay homage to the legacy of the Shonai Clan.
About the Shonai Clan:
The Shonai Shrine is dedicated to the spirits of the Sakai Family, who were the lords of the Shonai region from 1622 to 1868. Renowned for their commitment to education and military prowess, the Sakai Family, as leaders of the Shonai Clan, played a significant role in local history. During the Boshin War (1868), the Shonai Clan, loyal to the Tokugawa shogunate, valiantly fought without suffering defeat until the very end. Their unwavering commitment continued until they ultimately surrendered following the defeat of their allies, notably the Aizu clan. With the establishment of the Meiji government, the shogunate system was dismantled, and local lords lost their titles. Consequently, the Shonai Clan’s castle, Tsurugaoka-jô 鶴ヶ岡城, was dismantled in 1871. In 1877, the Shonai Shrine (Shonai-jinja 荘内神社) was erected on its grounds to commemorate the Sakai family and the legacy of the Shonai Clan.
Tsuruoka’s Food Calendar
The city of Tsuruoka is located in Yamagata Prefecture’s seaside region: the Shonai region. The Shonai region is blessed with a rich natural environment that allows you to experience the changing seasons to the fullest in Japan. It is abundant with various seasonal ingredients, such as mountain vegetables and mushrooms from the mountains, rice, bamboo shoots, edamame, and other local delicacies cultivated in the fields, as well as seafood like cherry salmon and cod from the sea. Throughout the year, you can enjoy a diverse culinary culture that makes the most of the flavors of the season.
Tsuruoka’s food culture has been cherished and passed down for centuries and was recognized as a “UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy” in December 2014. The “heirloom crops” that local farmers have preserved for centuries, along with their cultivation methods, encompass over 60 different varieties and have captivated visitors as “living cultural treasures.”
We encourage you to savor the seasonal cuisine at ryokans, hotels, and local restaurants in the city.
Delicious Tsuruoka Gourmet Journey : Tsuruoka Gastronomy Tourism to Experience Gourmet Food and Food Culture
Located on the seaward side of Yamagata Prefecture in Japan’s Tohoku region, the city of Tsuruoka is blessed with the rich natural landscapes of the Shonai Plain, the Sea of Japan, and surrounding mountains. Nurtured by this abundant nature, Tsuruoka’s food culture has been carefully passed down for hundreds of years, and the locale has been certified as Japan’s first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. The shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) nurtured at the Dewa Sanzan mountain shrines is known as food culture unique to Tsuruoka, where spiritual cultural values has long been cherished.
Please take a look at the article about gastronomy tourism in Tsuruoka City!
Shoreisai: The Last Yamabushi Celebration of the Year
The Shoreisai (松例祭) festival is one of the most significant Yamabushi rituals of the year, held on the 31st of December annually. The ceremonies are open for everyone to witness.
This festival marks the conclusion of the “winter retreat” (冬の峰入り – fuyu no mine iri), one of the four seasonal Yamabushi training sessions. During the winter retreat, a chosen practitioner of Mt. Haguro, known as the Matsu-Hijiri (松聖), retreats for 100 days in the mountains, awaiting the spirit of the goddess of cereals, Ukanomitama, to inhabit their body. The Matsu-Hijiri’s role is to protect the holy spirits of the grains and pray for bountiful harvests in the coming year.
On the night of December 31st, the Matsu-Hijiri and other Yamabushi of Mt. Haguro participate in various purifying ceremonies that extend into the next day, with the aim of blessing the crops.
Due to the potential danger of using Haguro’s stairs under snowy conditions, it is recommended to disembark from the bus or park your car at Haguro Sancho (羽黒山頂).
Interview with TSURUOKA FŪDO GUIDE
The city of Tsuruoka in Yamagata Prefecture has carefully passed on its food culture nurtured by abundant nature for hundreds of years. In December 2014, it became the first city in Japan to be designated a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. Over several centuries, farming families have safeguarded over 60 varieties of heirloom crops, which, along with their cultivation methods inherited across generations, fascinate visitors as living cultural assets. Additionally, the shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) developed at the Dewa Sanzan mountain shrines is known as distinctive Tsuruoka food culture that values spirituality.
To spread awareness of Tsuruoka’s appealing cuisine, its background, and the history and culture behind it, the “FŪDO (Food x Culture) Guides” were established. The FŪDO Guide program was sparked by the UNESCO Creative City designation, and the guides are involved in a range of efforts ranging from international exchange and tourist guiding to outreach targeting local residents. This article delves into FŪDO Guide Ms. Yamaguchi’s passion for Tsuruoka cuisine.
The FŪDO Guides were created with the desire for more people to encounter and be moved by Tsuruoka’s wonderful food culture. The activities began in conjunction with Tsuruoka becoming Japan’s first UNESCO Creative City in 2014. At the time, I had just obtained certification as a vegetable sommelier, and I decided to work as a FŪDO Guide out of a desire to spread knowledge of Tsuruoka’s heritage crops more widely.
– Please tell us about the work involved in being a FŪDO Guide.
The term “FŪDO Guide” incorporates the meanings of “food,” “fudo (natural features of the region),” and “guide.” Rather than just introducing foods, our goal is to foster understanding of Tsuruoka’s food culture by providing information and experiences conveying what lies behind it. My work includes accompanying monitor tours and on-site visits as a guide, as well as proposing and executing tour content. I also hold seminars and site visits for local community associations. FŪDO Guides must be certification, and qualification requires not only knowledge about food ingredients, the region’s natural features, history, and the like, but also the ability to communicate, plan, take action, and build connections to disseminate knowledge. Even after qualifying, we continuously strive to enhance our skills and share information among guides to transmit Tsuruoka’s food culture with passion.
– Do you incorporate any special touches when guiding tours?
When guiding, I prepare an explanatory sketchbook to have priorly researched information on hand to answer various questions. Each of us FŪDO Guides has our own unique sketchbooks, and I’ve made about 20 of them. They cover such diverse themes as self-introductions, slash-and-burn agriculture, Mount Haguro, Shonai sand dune melons, dadacha beans, moso bamboo, and more. When serving Shonai cuisine, I strive to provide information tailored to the places of origin and tastes of the guests.
– Do you get opportunities to host guests from overseas?
I am also involved in overseas tourism development and accepting non-Japanese visitors. Around seven years ago I served as the coordinator for an exchange with an Italian food-science university. Since receiving the UNESCO designation, on-site visits have increased, and I’ve helped individually plan itineraries for some non-Japanese guests during their stays in Tsuruoka. Hosting overseas visitors requires creating a relaxed schedule in terms of time, because Japanese-style tours feel overly packed. Tsuruoka boasts diverse appeal, so sufficient time is essential to convey it all. I have the flaw of sometimes talking too much, but I work hard to provide high-quality information.
– Is there anything you want to communicate to local residents?
I hope local residents can gain an awareness of elements of Shonai’s charm that they normally take for granted but are actually unique compared to other regions. FŪDO Guides believe it’s important to raise awareness of and share knowledge about local cuisine and food culture. For example, it would be wonderful if locals could casually chat with tourists passing by on the street who ask, “Is there any good food around here? Where can I eat?” There are also many people who are interested in learning more about local cuisine, and we hold study sessions to provide opportunities to deepen knowledge.
– What message do you want to convey as a FŪDO Guide?
Tsuruoka is a wonderful place where you can enjoy delicious seasonal ingredients. A history and culture of cuisine cultivated by previous generations has taken root here, and learning about it can further deepen your understanding of food culture. I have utmost confidence in eating as the number one Shonai foodie. Please do visit Tsuruoka and enjoy the tasty local fare to the fullest. My hope is for the region’s natural features that change seasons paired with Tsuruoka’s food culture will become wonderful lasting memories for our guests.
Ms. Yamaguchi is active as a FŪDO Guide
Report on the chef training program held on january 25, 2024.
“Achieving Food Diversity through Creativity and Ingenuity”
For the past decade, Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture, designated as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, has been advancing gastronomy tourism as a unified community effort. Recently, with an eye on inbound demand, they have been actively promoting food diversity and culinary variety. On November 13, 2023, they hosted the “Tsuruoka Gastronomy Summit,” where they explored the history and allure of Shojin cuisine, followed by a discussion on Tsuruoka’s culinary diversity and potential on the 14th. A major challenge that emerged during these discussions was how to acquire the necessary knowledge to realize food diversity. As one solution, a “Vegetarian Training Seminar” was held on January 25, 2024, at the Al Ché-cciano Academy.
The seminar was divided into two parts, with the first part featuring Masayuki Okuda, the owner chef of Al Ché-cciano, who had previously spoken at the summit and has long been a driving force behind the region’s gastronomy. The second part was led by Yasuhiro Higa, CEO of Maestranza, who is not only a chef but also engages in regional food production across Japan.
“The number of culinary options available is crucial”
The first part, titled “Okuda-style Vegetarian Gastronomy,” began with theoretical discussions. According to Chef Okuda, who has conducted independent research on Tsuruoka’s culinary potential for many years, Japan boasts the most diverse range of vegetables and fish species globally, with the country’s status as the final destination on the Silk Road cited as a significant factor contributing to the abundant variety of vegetables, particularly in Tsuruoka City. The city boasts 141 species of fishery products, along with a rich array of vegetables and fruits, including approximately 56 varieties of grapes and about 40 varieties of apples. This diversity is attributed to the region’s diverse terrain, ranging from plains to mountains, resulting in varied climates, as well as the cultural background of pilgrims bringing valuable “seeds,” such as vegetables and fruits, as offerings due to their monetary value in connection with the faith in the Dewa Sanzan mountains. This cultural tradition has helped preserve ancient vegetables and other produce for centuries.
Due to the proximity of mountains and sea, the region has a history of incorporating seafood into mountain vegetable dishes, which has also influenced the deliciousness of Tsuruoka’s cuisine. For example, the presence of inosinic acid in ingredients like bonito flakes enhances umami flavors when combined with glutamic acid, resulting in a fivefold increase in umami. Based on this background, the Okuda-style vegetarian training focused on two dishes: “Pescatarian” dishes that combine vegetables with seafood, known as “Pescatarian,” and three vegan dishes, including one that won third place in the 2016 “The Vegetarian Chance” vegetable cooking contest in Milan, Italy.
（ベジピラミッド図）
The first dish created by Chef Okuda, which won third place globally, is similar to Ratatouille, featuring vegetables such as cucumbers, carrots, and myoga fermented with salt without heating. The difference from Ratatouille lies in the fact that, whereas the Mediterranean region has a dry climate resulting in strong bitterness in vegetables, which is neutralized with olive oil and heat, Tsuruoka’s vegetables are naturally sweet, eliminating the need for heating. This dish is titled “Tsuruoka Dashi Winter Version,” inspired by the local cuisine of “Yamagata’s dashi.”
The two “Pescatarian” dishes, inspired by the snowy landscape of Mt. Gassan, include “Nodoguro Mousse,” which brings out the richness of the blackthroat seaperch, and “Kin Kara sea bream and Squid and Zucchini,” where the subtlety of the Kin Kara sea bream is brought out by browning it at 175 degrees Celsius. Chef Okuda emphasized the importance of condensing umami flavors specific to each ingredient, such as extracting fat effectively from nodoguro and browning the mild-flavored Kin Kara sea bream. He stated that chefs need to have a wide range of skills to achieve this. During the subsequent Q&A session, questions focused on topics unique to culinary training, such as oil and oven temperatures, and starch properties.
To prevent exhaustion on the ground: “Substitution”
In the second part, following a break, Higa started with an explanation of the connections between regions and food, titled “The First Step Towards Food Diversity.” Higa, who has been involved in producing local food as a tourism resource in various places across Japan, from restaurant buses in Kyoto Tango to old folk houses in Miyagi’s hot spring areas, as well as at Hakodate Airport and Lake Towada, remarked that even from his perspective, the richness of ingredients and the allure of food culture in Shonai are exceptional. However, not everyone in the food and hospitality industry can afford to engage with food diversity with ease. There are operational issues such as manpower and financial constraints.
Therefore, Higa imparted strategies for overcoming these practical challenges. One of them is the concept of “substitution.” Instead of learning new dishes from scratch, it involves substituting existing or familiar dishes. For example, if there is a vegan customer in a group, even something as simple as vegetable tempura with soba noodles can be satisfying. The key is to pay attention to the bonito broth in the dipping sauce and the egg in the tempura batter. Additionally, dishes like hot pot or mixed rice can serve as main dishes. Higa also introduced the use of rapidly evolving alternative foods. Soy meat can replace meat, SOY scramble can replace eggs, and soy milk or coconut milk can replace dairy. Furthermore, desserts, which have been a concern in the past, now have fermented soy milk that resembles whipped cream, and there are pie crusts available without butter. By combining these ready-made products with Shonai’s strengths, such as vegetables and fruits, one can create sufficiently attractive dishes.
Higa then offered six dishes, including “Soy Taco and SOY Cheese Bruschetta,” “Veggie Scramble,” “Soba with Raw Seven Spice Peperoncino,” “Vegetable Rendang (Indonesian-style Curry),” “SOY Tiramisu,” and “SOY Mille-feuille.” Participants who tasted the dishes expressed surprise at their high quality. Finally, Higa stated that food diversity can be achieved through “stock,” “knowledge,” and “mindset,” emphasizing the importance of supporting this attitude throughout the city, which can resonate with inbound customers and lead to repeat visits. The participants seemed encouraged to take a step forward by the strong lectures from both speakers.
Report on the Circular Yunohamawāru Project held on january 23, 2024
“Revitalizing the Region with ‘Food Circulation’: Yunohama Onsen’s Gastronomy Tourism”
Yunohama Onsen, one of the four hot spring resorts in Tsuruoka City, has long attracted travelers with its combination of sea, white beaches, and hot springs. On January 23, 2024, the “Yunohamawāru Project” inn training seminar was held at the inn “Kameya” in Yunohama, aiming to promote the circulation of local ingredients and create a sustainable community, nurturing its unique gastronomy tourism. Eighteen participants, including inn proprietors and head chefs, attended the seminar. It might be hard to imagine how gastronomy and sustainable communities intertwine, but regardless of the richness of tradition and culture, a community cannot thrive if it is depleted. Creating a cycle within the community that protects local agriculture, cultivates signature ingredients, and integrates them into business ventures ensures the continuity of regional agriculture and economy, laying the foundation for gastronomy tourism.
“Harnessing the Potential: Black soldier fly (Hermetia illucens) Research and Circular Agriculture Innovations”
The seminar was hosted by Yunohama 100 Year Co. and moderated by Mei Kirie of the company. It featured an introductory overview by Kimikazu Abe, who is also a director of the company, and began with an explanation of the project’s foundation. This involves utilizing the larvae of a beetle called Black soldier fly to decompose food waste generated by inns and hotels, converting it into fertilizer to cultivate locally grown vegetables, thus creating a cycle. According to Abe, the idea for this project emerged when he was envisioning vegetables as the mainstay of Yunohama’s unique gastronomy tourism, and coincidentally heard from Sho Okamoto of Sompo Japan about using the Black soldier fly to decompose food waste. Sustainable initiatives were already underway in Yunohama; the community had been collaborating with the Ministry of the Environment to utilize unused heat from hot springs for CO2 reduction. The collection and processing of waste from inns by a cooperative was also a natural progression. Abe emphasized the importance of not only delicious food but also the culture of valuing food that underpins gastronomy.
Associate Professor Satoru Sato
Next, Associate Professor Satoru Sato, who conducts research on Black soldier fly at the Faculty of Agriculture, Yamagata University, explained the process of decomposing food waste and converting it into fertilizer using these beetles. Black soldier fly are found throughout Japan and are also known as “toilet beetles.” Despite their name, they do not transmit diseases and are being noticed worldwide for their high protein content. These larvae efficiently consume food waste, converting it into fertilizer (liquid fertilizer) without emitting CO2 or requiring energy consumption. Currently, Sato is processing 1 to 2 tons of food waste generated annually within Yamagata University using these beetles, with plans to handle the estimated 55 to 65 tons of food waste from Yunohama Onsen in the future. The fertilizer produced has been shown to have effects comparable to chemical fertilizers and is beneficial to the soil. Sato also highlighted the role of these beetles in providing protein, indicating the high potential of this approach, which surprised the participants.
Kouichi Sato from Wats Wats Farm
Taking over the discussion, Kouichi Sato from Wats Wats Farm, located near Shonai Airport, explained how they cultivate a variety of vegetables such as melons, cherry tomatoes, spinach, and ginger on sandy fields. During winter, when colorful vegetables are scarce, they grow vibrant vegetables like yellow turnips and red carrots in greenhouses, which are also used in Yunohama’s inns. Wats Wats Farm joined this project seamlessly due to their existing collaboration with Yamagata University in implementing circular agriculture. Furthermore, Sato expressed concerns about the rising selling prices of vegetables for farmers, with wholesale prices remaining stagnant, leading to the need to reduce production costs. Therefore, utilizing discarded food waste is expected to help control costs. However, since there is still no data on the optimal timing and quantity for effective use, trial and error will continue in the future.
“Sustainability Alone Doesn’t Make Business Sense”
Naoto Suzuki of Tokyo Kaikan in Marunouchi, Tokyo
According to Abe from Yunohama 100-Year Project, no matter how environmentally friendly your initiatives are, if the food isn’t delicious, the business won’t thrive. To address this, Abe invited Naoto Suzuki, a longtime acquaintance from TOKYO KAIKAN in Marunouchi, along with Naoto Suzuki (Japanese cuisine advisor), to conduct a training session on pondering the “deliciousness” of Yunohama’s flavors. Suzuki crafted two dishes using vegetables grown with fertilizer made by the Black soldier fly: “Tai Kabura-mushi with Japanese Sea Flavor,” enhanced with the aroma of yuzu, and “Night and Day Daikon” paired with Beni-Zuwai Crab. These dishes were served to participants and the media present at the event, and everyone savored the deliciousness while receiving the lecture. Suzuki first noted that ingredients fall into three categories: those sought by “instinct,” those sought by “reason,” and those driven by “desire.” Generally, profitable ingredients are those driven by “desire.” Compared to beverages like sake, which fall into this category, vegetables sought by “reason” lack the persuasive power to appeal to customers. Therefore, detailed explanations were provided on preservation and cooking methods to enhance the goodness of vegetables. For example, Suzuki advised that daikon and turnips should have their leaves and roots trimmed, wrapped in newspaper, ideally hung at room temperature for storage, and buried vegetables such as root vegetables should have their skin peeled and exposed to sunlight once, emphasizing that proper preparation of fish before cooking leads to better flavor, and it’s not just about pursuing freshness. It was an eye-opening lecture. Finally, Suzuki expressed a desire for dishes that would make people want to visit Yunohama when the season arrives and requested Sato from Wats Wats Farm to produce vegetables that can be eaten with their skin.
Yunohama has long been known for its “sea,” “white beaches,” and “hot springs.” With this project adding “life” and “food” to the mix, it’s likely that Yunohama’s gastronomy tourism, which will continue for another hundred years, has been born.
Report on the Gastronomy Summit Held on November 14, 2023.
“The Necessity of ‘Collaboration’ Consciousness for Becoming a ‘Gastronomic Sanctuary'”
On November 14, 2023, following the previous day’s “Tsuruoka Gastronomy Tourism: Exploring Dewa Sanzan Shojin Ryori,” the “Tsuruoka Gastronomy Summit” took place at the Tokyo Daiichi Hotel Tsuruoka. The focus of this summit was to explore how gastronomy tourism, emphasizing “culinary diversity” and catering to inbound foreign tourists, could become a strength in local tourism. The central theme revolved around how the region could foster consensus to progress in the same direction for the development of gastronomy tourism.
The event was divided into two parts. In the first part, titled “Globalization of Cuisine and Tsuruoka’s Gastronomy,” Chef Hitoshi Sugiura, a pioneer in vegan and plant-based cuisine in Japan who honed his culinary skills in New York and Los Angeles, delivered a keynote speech. The second part featured not only Chef Sugiura but also Masayuki Okuda, Owner Chef of the nationally renowned Italian restaurant “Al che-cciano,” and Tateo Oie, Professor of Gastronomy Tourism Research at Heian Jogakuin University, alongside facilitator Manami Ono from MATERNAL, a company contributing to the refinement of local gastronomy.
During Chef Sugiura’s keynote speech, the focus was on “culinary diversity.” He emphasized that by considering various reasons such as dietary restrictions or religious beliefs, ingredients that might be unsuitable for some individuals could still be enjoyed by a broader audience through vegetarian and vegan dishes. Chef Sugiura discussed the significant market size in countries like India, where half the population is vegetarian, and Taiwan, with a substantial vegetarian population. He also shared insights into the economic benefits, mentioning that in New York, a three-star vegan restaurant course could cost up to ¥37,000. The participants were captivated by the revelation that even vegetable-based dishes could yield high returns. Chef Sugiura asserted that Tsuruoka had the potential to benefit greatly from this field, especially with the presence of Shojin Ryori, which aligns well with vegetarian and vegan preferences. However, he stressed the importance of collaborative efforts with the local community, stating that chefs alone could not achieve this transformation.
The participants responded positively, not only appreciating the gained knowledge of vegan and vegetarian basics but also making proactive suggestions such as the importance of a “food network” and the potential for “problem-solving through food.” The session became an opportunity for participants to reevaluate the allure of Tsuruoka’s cuisine.
In the second part, the theme was “What Defines Tsuruoka’s Gastronomy Tourism,” focusing on “what is necessary to become a tourist destination for gastronomy.” Professor Oie referenced Tuscany, Italy, known for its art and cuisine, particularly in Florence. He highlighted how gastronomy has become a centerpiece of tourism and the economy, with wine, cheese, and pasta being not only locally enjoyed but also exported. Professor Oie expressed hope that Tsuruoka could achieve a similar status amidst the current globalization of Japanese cuisine. Chef Okuda, who has been a driving force behind local gastronomy, shared his approach of introducing producers during interviews and conveying the excellence of both producers and their products. He emphasized that this approach not only benefits the producers but also instills pride in their work. Chef Okuda unveiled the “Okuda-style Gastronomy Tour,” guiding chefs and business owners visiting Tsuruoka. Chef Okuda introduced the “Okuda-style Gastronomy Tour,” designed for chefs and business owners visiting Tsuruoka. The tour begins with a visit to the fish memorial tower at Zempo-ji temple, where participants pay their respects. The course then unfolds, revealing the history of Tsuruoka’s culinary culture, starting with the abundance of sake produced in the former tenryo (territory directly controlled by the shogunate) of Oyama, which contributed to the development of pickles. This historical journey traces the roots of Tsuruoka’s food culture up to the present day. The tour concludes with a full-course meal crafted from ingredients harvested along the route, showcasing a thoughtful narrative that allows participants to feel the story of the region. Chef Okuda believes that these creative elements align Tsuruoka with the vibrant cities of Italy and France, contributing to a sense of equality among them.
Next, when Mr. Ono raised the topic of “consensus building within the community,” Chef Sugiura expressed the importance of the community in becoming a collaborative region. Given Tsuruoka’s rich cultural scene, he expressed hope for the formation of a community that transcends genres. Furthermore, to make the community appealing, Chef Okuda added, based on his experience, that it’s crucial to understand one’s strengths and distinctive features. He emphasized that individuals need to take the initiative to get things moving.
Finally, when asked about challenges, Professor Oie expressed concerns about the future of the inbound tourism boom. The sustainability of this boom over the next ten years is uncertain, and he anticipated intensified city-to-city competition worldwide for attracting tourists. To overcome this collaborative challenge, Mr. Oie emphasized the importance of globally promoting Tsuruoka’s gastronomy, stating that the gastronomy needs to become an attraction. He pointed to Tsukiji Market as a good example and proposed three ideas: food festivals as attractions, food tours around the region like Chef Okuda’s suggested tour, and freely exploring food-related places along a food trail.
Chef Okuda, while praising the excellence of the materials produced in the Shonai region, raised the challenge of nurturing the next generation. He emphasized that passing down the region’s culinary culture, including the use and preparation of traditional crops, is indispensable for Tsuruoka Gastronomy Tourism.
Participants expressed opinions such as “renewed recognition of Tsuruoka’s high potential” and voiced expectations for further growth. However, in the field of “collaboration,” chosen as a discussion theme, opinions emphasized the importance of unity throughout Tsuruoka city. The diversity of attractions led to a sense of frustration and difficulty in achieving unity, as reflected in the survey results.
Report on the Tsuruoka Gastronomy Tourism Workshop Held on November 13, 2023.
“Discovering the value of Shojin Ryori, but how to convey it is a future challenge.”
In Tsuruoka City, the first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy in Japan, the catchphrase “Pilgrimage, Onsen, Gastronomy” has been used to welcome tourists, bundling together unique tourism resources. Among them, the Shojin Rryori of Dewa Sanzan, spanning both “Pilgrimage” and “Gastronomy,” is a significant local attraction and boasts enduring popularity even among foreign visitors to Japan. While the history, culinary techniques, and organization of ingredients have already been established, and efforts have been made to preserve tradition, the city aims to strengthen its reception system as a tourism resource. To achieve this, they set the goal of “culinary diversity” and organized a lecture titled “Tsuruoka Gastronomy Tourism: Exploring Dewa Sanzan Shojin Ryori” and a training session on the marriage of Shojin Ryori and Japanese sake, held on November 13, 2023, at the Tokyo Daiichi Hotel Tsuruoka in the city center.
The first part of the event, which began with the sound of a conch shell, featured Akira Toki, the facilitator, who runs the Tamonkan, formerly a Shukubo (Shinto Lodging), in the Touge district that has welcomed believers for centuries. He was joined by Kazuhiro Hayasaka, a monk of Daishinbo Shukubo and a Haguro Yamabushi, and Hiroyuki Yoshizumi, the director of the Ideha Museum and also a Haguro Yamabushi. The three speakers, who had initiated the “Shojin Ryori Project” twelve years ago in response to the declining number of believers, explained to the participants that Shojin Ryori is a form of ascetic practice involving the consumption of food offered to mountain deities. They showcased their efforts in spreading this culinary tradition, not only domestically but also to international educational institutions such as the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Italy. The results of their diligent work have contributed to establishing the image of “Shojin Ryori when you think of Dewa Sanzan” among travel agencies, leading to an increase in travelers staying at Shukubo. Concerning foreign visitors to Japan, survey results presented by Mr. Yoshizumi revealed a fascination with the spiritual aspect, attracting travelers from the United States, France, Spain, and other Western countries.
Looking ahead, the three speakers proposed collaborating with local residents, such as farmers, to share the region’s unique culture and set targets to attract more visitors to Tsuruoka. They suggested that promoting spiritual and cultural aspects could ultimately lead to the development of gastronomy tourism. Feedback from the 86 participants, including tourism operators and foreign residents, indicated a renewed appreciation for regional culture, with comments such as “I learned about the background of Shojin Ryori” and “It adds to the charm of Tsuruoka.” Suggestions were also made about the combination of activities like mountain hiking or climbing, harvesting experiences, and the role of food in attracting visitors.
However, there were differing opinions on accommodating vegetarians. While some participants acknowledged the compatibility of Shojin Ryori with vegetarian menus, others insisted on preserving tradition without making special accommodations. Recognizing the diversity of perceptions within the community, the importance of accurately and engagingly communicating the information that Shojin Ryori in Dewa Sanzan is deeply rooted in spiritual culture emerged as a key challenge.
The second part of the event aimed to enhance the value of Shojin Ryori by exploring its pairing with Japanese sake. Following Mr. Toki’s explanation of Shojin Ryori, Masao Aisawa, the representative of Takenotsuyu Sake Brewery, which produces the sacred sake of Dewa Sanzan, was invited as a guest. The participants experienced a tasting session where Shojin Ryori representing each season, such as wild vegetables in spring, Gassan bamboo shoots in summer, mushrooms and persimmons in autumn, and winter vegetables in winter, were paired with various types of Japanese sake. Emphasizing culinary diversity, gluten-free products were used in seasonings like miso and soy sauce.
As participants savored the dishes and listened to Mr. Aisawa’s explanations of the paired sake, they expressed surprise at the excellent compatibility and enjoyed the experience of not only tasting with their tongues and eyes but also gaining insights from knowledge and memory. The survey results showed approximately 80% satisfaction, with comments such as “Experiencing mountain ascetic practices and waterfall training in Dewa Sanzan would deepen the meaning of food.” The majority felt that Shojin Ryori, along with its spiritual culture, should be shared and experienced.
Looking forward, the challenge lies in how to promote the marriage of Shojin Ryori and Japanese sake, and how to effectively communicate it. Overcoming this challenge could lead to the birth of a truly unique gastronomic pilgrimage site, creating anticipation among all participants.
Visit all the three mountains of the Dewa Sanzan in a single trip! (2 nights, 3 days)
Exploring the entire Dewa Sanzan mountain range can be a bit challenging due to the varying hikeability of the mountains throughout the year and limited transportation options. However, there is indeed a way to conquer all three mountains in one trip to Tsuruoka! Let us guide you on how to achieve this using the city’s available public transportation services in a 2 nights 3 days trip. Please note this whole trip can only be accomplished during the official Mt. Gassan hiking season (July 1st to September 15th)
D1 : Arriving to Tsuruoka and visiting Mt. Haguro
The Dewa Sanzan Shrine (also called “Sanjingosaiden”) at the top of Mt. Haguro
Tsuruoka Station
Tsuruoka Station is the most convenient spot to plan all your transportations to Tsuruoka City’s several places of interests (S-MALL bus center, a few minutes away from the station, is also a good place to wait for the bus as it is located near the Daiichi Hotel and inside the S-Mall shopping mall). Tsuruoka Station is part of the JR network, so you can use your JR pass to reach Tsuruoka. Here are some tips to keep in mind before embarking on your journey to the Dewa Sanzan:
Aim to arrive at Tsuruoka Station before 1:00 PM. If you’re coming from Tokyo, catch the Joetsu Shinkansen Toki 311 departing from Tokyo Station at 9:12 AM. This will get you to Niigata Station in approximately 90 minutes (arrival time: 10:41 AM), allowing for a smooth transfer to Tsuruoka Station via the Limited Inaho Express No. 7 departing at 10:48 AM. You’ll reach Tsuruoka in about 1 hour and 50 minutes (arrival time: 12:42 PM). Consider having lunch at a nearby restaurant or grabbing a bento from the convenience store next to the station.
Catch the bus to Mt. Haguro at 12:58 PM or 2:33 PM from Tsuruoka Station’s bus stop #2 (Japanese name: 鶴岡駅前バス停２番). Get off the bus at Hagurozuishinmon after a 36-minute ride.
Useful links:
Japan Railway East : The timetables of “Joetsu Shinkansen” and “Limited Inaho Express” change every month, so please search from the links below.(Japanese, please use automatic translation):
To start your journey to the Dewa Sanzan sacred mountain, the first mountain you should aim for is Mt. Haguro. In order to climb the “Mountain of Present”, you need to enter the “Zuishinmon gate”. This red gate used to be a “Niomon” (a Buddhist gate that enshrines the Buddhist gods “Nio”), but changed its name to Zuishinmon after Mt. Haguro was forcefully converted to Shintoism in the 19th century. You will find the Tenchikon-jinja shrine on its right.
“Hagurozuishinmon” Bus stop. Toilets inside the waiting area.
Here is what we recommend you to do for the afternoon:
Climb Mt. Haguro (1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, according to your hiking speed)
Have tea & mochi at the Ninosaka Chaya Teahouse halfway to the top.
Visit the top of the mountain, hear a prayer at the Dewa Sanzan shrine (regularly performed until 4pm)
Stay at a shukubo lodge for the night, at the top (Saikan) or by going back to the foot of the mountain. You can take the bus from the top (bus stop name: Haguro Sancho) back to the bottom (Haguro Zuishinmon or other bus stops) if you do not wish to climb the stairs down. (bus ride: 660 yen per person)
The torii gate at the top of the mountain that leads to the Haguro Sancho parking lot (& bus stop) and the Hagurosan Resthouse.
D2 : The big hike: Mt. Gassan & Mt. Yudono
The Busshoike Goya, a lodge halfway to the top of Mt. Gassan
Haguro Sancho
Haguro Sancho 羽黒山頂 will be your transfer point to take the bus to Mt. Gassan. We suggest you take the earliest bus possible to Mt. Gassan so you can do the hike to Mt. Yudono when there is still daylight.
Aim to depart from Haguro Sancho before 8am.
Catch the bus to Gassan Hachigome at 7:05am or 8:05 am. Get off the bus at Gassan Hachigome 月山八合目 after a 55 minute ride.
Gassan Hachigome 月山八合目 (“Gassan’s Eighth Station”) is the name given to the spot where most hikers start their hike to the top of Mt. Gassan. It takes 2 hours and half to reach the top for beginner hikers without a pause (please note that the time required to hike depends greatly on your hiking pace, the purpose of your hike: photography = +40 min. to +1 hour, leisure = +20 min., sports = -30min., etc.).
Equipment needed
-Good hiking shoes -Good sunproof hat & sunglasses -Sunscreen or long-sleeved top -Water -Hiking sticks -A waterproof windbreaker vest (in case of rain) -Snacks & food -Light crampons (for hikers in early-mid July; as there is some snow remaining on some parts of the trail) -(Recommended) Insect repellent -(Recommende) Bear bell
Aim to start your hike at around 9am
Visit the Midagahara marshes and the Midahara shrine
Visit the Busshoike Goya Lodge 佛生池小屋 (please buy food or a souvenir if you wish to rest inside the place)
Hike to the top, visit the Gassan shrine 月山神社 (500 yen per person)
Busshoike Goya’s lodge. It takes roughly 1 hour 10 minutes to reach for beginner hikers (no pause)
Useful links:
Shonai Kotsu – Bus to Mt. Haguro & Gassan’s timetable :
Gassan Chojo Goya (the furthest building in the background seen from the Gassan Shrine)
Have lunch at Gassan Chojo Goya 月山頂上小屋 (might be out of service according to the water-availability situation or special schedules)
Follow the hiking trail to Mt. Yudono. From there, it is a 3 hours and half+ hiking course that is awaiting you. Please count at least 4 hours of hiking if you are a novice, 5 hours if you wish to take your time/photos. The last part of the trail is dangerous (metal ladders stuck in the rock, very slippery in case of rain).
Yudonosan-jinja
Mt. Yudono’s shrine (photos & videos prohibited)
Visit the Yudonosan-jinja shrine (500 yen/person). You need to take off your shoes in the dedicated space and take part in a purification prayer as instructed by the priest (you will need to rub your body with a little white piece of paper called “hitogata”, and release it in the nearby water stream to cleanse you from your defilements; then you are expected to listen to a prayer, and climb Mt. Yudono’s holy rock in the hot water).
Go to the small parking lot behind the shrine. You will find a souvenir shop and a shuttle-bus stop that will bring you to Yudonosan Senninzawa. Wait for the bus (200 yen/person, 1-way only). The last bus departs at around 4:30pm. Please keep this in mind when planning your trip. Otherwise you will have to walk 40 min. on foot to get to the next step.
Useful links:
Shonai Kotsu – Shuttle-bus to Senninzawa (Japanese) 湯殿山神社本宮参拝バス
Yudonosan Senninzawa is the big place at the foot of the mountain with a giant red torii gate in the middle. You will find a Buddhist graveyard on the right of the torii (from the point of view of the photo above), the Yudonosan Sanrojo pilgrim lodge on the left, and the Yudonosan Resthouse at the bottom of Yudonosan Sanrojo.
Stay at Yudonosan Sanrojo (prior booking mandatory)
Yudonosan Sanrojo’s pilgrim lodge
Useful links:
Shoko Travel – Yudonosan Sanrojo’s English Website (reservations & info)
“Kandarajiru,” also known as “Dongara Jiru,” is a representative winter delicacy of Tsuruoka. It involves cutting the fatty winter cod caught in the harsh waves of the Japan Sea into chunks and cooking it in a pot with miso seasoning. This dish is designed to be savored to the fullest during the winter, symbolizing Tsuruoka’s resilience against the biting cold waves of the Japan Sea.
To celebrate the enjoyment of Kandarajiru, an event is held annually, welcoming around 20,000 visitors. On the day of the event, numerous stalls gather, and from the large pots, piping hot white steam rises, earning high praise as each mouthful warms the core of the body. Since each stall has its unique flavor, visitors can enjoy comparing the different tastes.
Furthermore, the event showcases Tsuruoka’s local products and winter flavors. Additionally, there is a simultaneous exhibition of specialty products from neighboring prefectures, including Niigata, Akita, and North Ibaraki. This provides an opportunity to experience and enjoy the winter flavors from nearby prefectures all in one place.
Tsuruoka Tourist Information Center
Find tourist brochures, bus information, posters and even goodies (stamp-rally towels, postcards, little souvenirs…) at our Tourist Information Center. We have an English speaking staff at the desk and will be glad to help you navigate through our city to reach your goal. The Tourist Information Center is located on the 1st floor of a building called “FOODEVER”, in front of the train station (on your left side when you get out of the station).
FOODEVER also has lockers and restrooms.
This site uses cookies to help us understand better the usage patterns of visitors on the website. By clicking "Agree," you consent to the use of cookies on this site. Click here to see our Cookie Policy.
