Japan is one of the most volcanic countries on Earth, and nowhere is this more felt than in Tohoku. Volcanic soil has shaped local agriculture, cuisine, and even faith—giving rise to unique mountain spiritualities (“sangaku-shinko”). Join us to discover how the people of Tohoku live in harmony with these powerful forces, from sacred beliefs and delicious local food to rejuvenating hot springs, in Japan’s second largest national park: the Bandai-Asahi National Park.

Day 1 – Fujishima City & Dake Onsen

Enjoy a farmer’s lunch at Suzu with Yoshiyuki and Yuka Suzuki, young asparagus growers who’ve turned their family orchard into a farm-to-table haven. After a delicious local meal and a soak in hot spring foot baths, visit bonsai master Daiki Abe at the foot of Mt. Azuma. Discover his unique ‘Kukanyubi’ style—capturing the mountain’s spirit in each handcrafted Japanese White Pine.

Day 2 – The “Little Fuji of Azuma”

Take a leisurely 4-hour hike through the striking volcanic landscapes of Jododaira. Explore the Witch’s Eye crater lake, steam-spewing Mt. Issaikyo, and the iconic Azuma-Kofuji caldera. End the loop with the lush Kamanuma Marshes—an unforgettable journey through one of Tohoku’s most dynamic terrains.

Day 3 – Mt. Adatara’s Extreme Onsen

Mt. Adatara is a majestic active volcano, known for its hot springs, fumaroles, and literary fame. Ranked among Japan’s top 100 mountains, it offers breathtaking views across its forested massif. Weather permitting, we may also visit Numajiri’s “Extreme Onsen”—a hidden hot spring accessible only with a guide. Don’t forget your swimsuit and towel!

Day 4 – Sendai city

Sendai, the largest city in Tohoku, is full of charm and local flavors. After exploring the city with a local guide, enjoy a lively bar-hopping adventure through its narrow alleyways.

Day 5 – Matsushima Islands

Just outside Sendai, Shiogama Fish Market offers a lively dive into Miyagi’s seafood culture. Chat with local vendors, learn about seasonal catches, and savor the freshest fish. Then, we’ll head to Matsushima—one of Japan’s Three Most Scenic Views, famously admired by haiku master Matsuo Basho. A boat tour around the bay reveals stunning island vistas and stories steeped in history and Buddhist legend.

Day 6 – Mt. Yudono & its mummies

A chartered bus will take us to Mt. Yudono in Yamagata Prefecture, one of the sacred Dewa Sanzan mountains revered by yamabushi, ascetic monks of the Shugendo tradition. The poet Matsuo Basho wrote of being deeply moved by this mystical site, whose secrets he was
forbidden to reveal. Among them: the mysterious appearance of Sokushinbutsu mummies. We can’t share the details here—but you’ll uncover them with us on-site.

Day 7 – Mt. Haguro

The next morning, we begin our journey of spiritual rebirth on Mt. Haguro, one of the sacred Dewa Sanzan peaks. Dressed in shiroshozoku, the white pilgrim robes of Shugendo, we’ll symbolically shed our old selves. Lunch will be shojin-ryori, a traditional Buddhistvegetarian meal reflecting Japan’s complex religious history. This day offers deep spiritual reflection and rich insights into Japanese faith and folklore.

Day 8 – Mt. Gassan

No Dewa Sanzan pilgrimage is complete without climbing Mt. Gassan—the highest and most sacred of the three. Known as the “Mountain of the Past” and the realm of the dead, it’s where ancestral spirits are believed to watch over the living. After the hike, we’ll unwind at Tsutaya Ryokan in Shizu Onsen, a welcoming hot spring inn run by a Yamabushi.

Day 9 – Zenpoji Temple

After days of hiking, it’s time to treat your body—starting with a sake tasting and brewery visit at Takenotsuyu. Once refreshed, we’ll head to Zenpoji Temple, one of Japan’s three main Soto Zen temples, to try seiza, the traditional sitting posture meant not for meditation, but for clearing the heart and mind. A resident monk will guide us, warning of pitfalls like makyo—the “demon realm” that tempts the ego.

Day 10 – Kamo Aquarium

Before returning to Tokyo or continuing your journey, we’ll visit Kamo Aquarium—the world’s top jellyfish aquarium—with the largest jellyfish tank and over 60 species on display.

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This 7-day winter journey through Tohoku combines deep cultural heritage, spectacular snow landscapes, and the healing power of hot springs. Beginning in Tsuruoka, you’ll explore the sacred Dewa Sanzan mountains, snowshoe to hidden pagodas, and follow ancient pilgrim paths under a blanket of snow. The adventure continues at Mt. Yudono, where a backcountry ski guide will lead you into pristine mountain scenery before you refuel on local specialties like duck hot pot and handmade soba. From there, experience the thrill of Yudonosan Ski Area, then head to Zao Ski Resort to ski among the region’s famous “snow monsters,” followed by relaxing evenings in the historic hot spring town of Zao Onsen. Rounding out the trip, you’ll visit the serene Lake Tazawa and conclude with a restorative stay at Nyuto Onsen, where rustic inns and milky mineral baths provide the perfect finish before returning to Tokyo.

Day 1 – Mt. Haguro’s snowy excursion

In the morning, arrive at Tsuruoka station, where you’ll enjoy lunch before heading for Mt. Haguro. Arrived in Zuishinmon, you’ll meet with your host for the night (a shukubo at the foot of Mt. Haguro). Leave your belongings, and put your snowshoes on. Follow your guide to see the snowy five-storied pagoda and climb Mt. Haguro’s steep steps covered in snow (extreme difficulty). We’ll head for Gassan Visitor Center through Mt. Haguro’s old pilgrim path, expecting to spot a few animals on the way. We’ll take the bus back to the pilgrim lodge from there.

Day 2 – Mt. Yudono’s backcountry

On the second day, we’ll head to Tamugimata village, the starting point for many routes into Mt. Yudono. There, we’ll meet a local backcountry ski guide and explore the mountain’s winter scenery together. For lunch, we’ll recharge with a comforting meal of duck soup and handmade soba noodles, a regional specialty. In the evening, you’ll stay at Yasuno Ryokan, a family-run inn where you can enjoy a hot spring bath and traditional Japanese hospitality.

Day 3 – Yudonosan Ski Area

The third day will be a bliss for snowboarders, as Yudonosan Ski area is often referred to “A Paradise for Snowboarders”! Its half-pipes courses have been designed by the former athlete Jun Maruyama. Sleep at Zao Onsen.

Day 4&5 – Zao Ski Resort

No winter trip to Tohoku is complete without seeing Zao’s famous “snow monsters”—trees covered in thick layers of snow and ice. You’ll ski across this unique landscape at the Zao resort, then spend the night at Zao Onsen. Zao Ski Resort in Yamagata Prefecture is one of Tohoku’s largest and most historic ski areas, with dozens of lifts connecting a wide range of slopes for both beginners and advanced skiers. Its most famous attraction is the “snow monsters”, trees completely covered in thick layers of snow and ice that create a breathtaking winter landscape, especially when illuminated at night. After a day on the slopes or a ropeway ride to admire the snow monsters up close, visitors can unwind in the nearby Zao Onsen, a hot spring town with over 1,900 years of history. Known for its sulfur-rich waters and traditional atmosphere, Zao offers not just great skiing but also a uniquely Japanese winter experience.

Day 6- Lake Tazawa

Visit Lake Tazawa, Japan’s deepest lake, for a peaceful winter excursion. Surrounded by mountains, the lake is especially striking when framed by snow. In the afternoon, you’ll head up to the ski area overlooking the lake, where you can enjoy the slopes along with sweeping views of the water below.

Day 7 – Nyuto Onsen

Spend a full day at Nyuto Onsen in Akita Prefecture, a secluded hot spring area tucked into the mountains. Known for its rustic wooden ryokan and milky-white mineral waters, Nyuto Onsen has long been cherished as a healing retreat. With no plans on the schedule, you’ll have plenty of time to soak in the outdoor baths, relax your muscles, and enjoy the quiet atmosphere of the surrounding forest before heading back to Tokyo.

Book your place here

Discover the sacred mountains of Tohoku on this 4-day immersive Yamabushi training tour. Guided by experienced Yamabushi priests, you will follow in the footsteps of centuries of ascetic practitioners along the ancient Dewa Sanzan pilgrimage routes. Begin at Mt. Haguro, where centuries-old cedar trees, stone steps, and historic temples set the stage for your spiritual journey. Climb Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono, experiencing their mystical landscapes and participating in traditional ascetic practices, including waterfall meditation and fire-crossing rituals. Along the way, visit sacred shrines, explore temples housing sokushinbutsu (self-mummified monks), and enjoy shojin-ryori, the vegetarian cuisine of the Yamabushi.This tour blends rigorous physical activity, deep cultural insight, and spiritual reflection, offering a rare opportunity to engage with Japan’s living mountain ascetic traditions.
Uketamo!

Day 1 – Mt. Haguro

Arrive at Tsuruoka Station before 11 a.m., where your interpreter will meet you and guide you to Mt. Haguro, the “Mountain of the Present” in the Dewa Sanzan pilgrimage. Mt. Haguro is the smallest of the three sacred mountains but is home to the famous five-storied pagoda, centuries-old cedar trees, and 2,446 stone steps that pilgrims have climbed for generations. Upon arrival at a shukubo (pilgrim lodge), you will participate in a blessing prayer and change into shiroshozoku, the traditional white robes symbolizing spiritual death. You will then visit Shozen’in Temple and climb the stone steps of Mt. Haguro. Next, take part in a prayer at the Dewa Sanzan Shrine, followed by a meal of shojin-ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) at Saikan, the pilgrim lodge. In the afternoon, walk down to the Gassan Visitor Center along the ancient pilgrimage trail, passing Kotakuji Temple, before returning to your shukubo for the night.

Day 2 – Mt. Gassan

Early in the morning, climb Mt. Gassan with your Yamabushi priest, a journey of about 2 hours and 30 minutes. Mt. Gassan, the tallest of the Dewa Sanzan mountains at 1,984 meters, is renowned for its alpine flora in summer and heavy snow in winter, creating a mystical landscape year-round. Along the way, visit Gassan Shrine, a sacred site that has welcomed pilgrims for centuries. After enjoying the serene mountain scenery, descend toward Mt. Yudono, a trek of approximately 4 hours. In the evening, check in at Yudonosan Sanrojo, a traditional lodge where you can rest and reflect after the day’s pilgrimage.

Day 3 – Mt. Yudono’s waterfall training

In the morning, take part in waterfall training with your Yamabushi guides, a 4-hour session that teaches the traditional ascetic practices of the Dewa Sanzan. Afterwards, visit Yudonosan Shrine, located on Mt. Yudono, the “Mountain of Love,” considered the most secret of the three Dewa Sanzan mountains. Pilgrims have visited this site for centuries, and its rituals remain largely hidden from the public, preserving a deeply spiritual atmosphere. In the afternoon, embark on a 4-hour hike along the historic Rokujurigoe Kaido, the 1,200-year-old pilgrimage route leading to Mt. Yudono, where you can follow the path of generations of pilgrims and experience the mountain’s serene winter landscapes.

Day 4 – Fire crossing & mummies

From Nanakamado, your lodging from the previous night, you’ll walk to Dainichibo Temple to meet Shinnyokai Shonin and explore the temple’s collection of sacred artifacts, a visit of about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Next, visit Churenji Temple (45 minutes) to see Tetsumonkai, a sokushinbutsu, in a temple known for its striking pop-art-inspired ceiling paintings.Enjoy a sustainable bento lunch at Oami before heading to Honmyoji Temple for a 2-hour session, where you will participate in your final Yamabushi training: the fire-crossing ritual (hiwatari) guided by three Shingon Buddhist monks. Conclude by paying respects to Honmyokai Shonin, the first sokushinbutsu of Mt. Yudono, completing a profound and immersive pilgrimage experience.

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Discover the enchanting Shonai region through a unique blend of cultural immersion, scenic cycling, and timeless traditions. This four-day journey invites you to pedal through Japan’s serene countryside, from tranquil coastal views and lush rice fields to historic mountain villages. Along the way, experience the captivating art of Noh theater (a UNESCO Intangible World Heritage) in the birthplace of its local genre: Kurokawa Noh, join lively local festivals, and savor exquisite traditional cuisine—all while staying in authentic ryokans renowned for their warm hospitality. Whether you seek adventure, culture, or peaceful reflection, this tour offers a rare glimpse into Japan’s spiritual and artistic heritage wrapped in natural beauty, at the cost of the energy in your legs!

Day 1 – Atsumi Onsen

Take the train to Atsumi Onsen and get off at Atsumi Station. Your ryokan will arrange a shuttle bus to pick you up at your designated time. Tachibanaya is a renowned hotel that has had the honor of hosting an Imperial Couple. With its exquisite décor, graceful koi ponds, and warm, attentive hospitality (known as omotenashi in Japanese), you’ll be enveloped in true luxury.
Hotel & Dinner: Tachibanaya, 4 stars ryokan in Atsumi Onsen

Day 2 – Cycling 40km + Noh performance!

Through stunning landscapes that capture the essence of rural Japan: the rugged Sea of Japan coastline, lush rice fields, and quaint mountain villages. In the charming village of Yamairagawa, you’ll experience a traditional Yamato Noh performance, followed by Yamairagawa Kabuki—a lively local festival where villagers cheer on the actors while enjoying delicious food together. After the show, hop back on your bike and cycle to Yutagawa Onsen, where you’ll rest and spend the night.
Lunch: Sustainable bento lunch to eat during the Yamato Noh play at the Kawachi shrine
Hotel & Dinner: Tsukasaya in Yutagawa Onsen, 3 stars

Day 3 – Kurokawa village (25km)

In the morning, hop back on your bicycle and ride to Kurokawa Village, the birthplace of Kurokawa Noh—designated a National Intangible Cultural Asset in 1976. If you’re visiting in November, you may have the chance to watch a live Kurokawa Noh performance. Otherwise, an expert guide will take you on a tour of the village, sharing the rich history of this ancient art, and even give you the opportunity to try performing it yourself.
Lunch: Ramen (Narumi) OR bento lunch
Dinner & Hotel: Fish menu at Yasuno Ryokan, 1 star ryokan

Day 4 – Mt. Haguro (15km+3km hike)

On the final day of your journey in the Shonai region, you’ll explore the stunning Mt. Haguro and uncover the deep connection between Noh theater and the Shinto religion. After enjoying a spiritual Shojin-ryori meal at Saikan, you’ll hop back on your bicycle for a ride to Tsuruoka Station (JR network), where you can either continue your travels or conclude your adventure.
Lunch: Shojin-ryori at Saikan

Book your place here

Starting in October, the mountains around Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture transform into a stunning tapestry of red and yellow. The autumn colors gradually descend from mountains like Gassan and Mt. Yudono, reaching their peak in town around November. Don’t miss the chance to visit Tsuruoka and enjoy the fall scenery!

Mt. Gassan

One of the three sacred Dewa mountains, Gassan offers peak autumn colors from mid-September to late October. Colors start at the summit and gradually move down the slopes. Maple trees, rowans, and autumn grasses paint the mountain in vivid reds and yellows—a view you can only experience at this time of year.

At 1,984 m, Gassan is one of Japan’s 100 famous mountains, attracting many hikers on weekends.

Popular beginner-friendly hiking routes to the summit include the Haguro Trail from the 8th station and the Shizu (Lift) Trail. From the top, you can enjoy panoramic views of the Shonai Plain, the Sea of Japan, and Mt. Chokai.
Hiking season: until mid-October

Peak foliage: Late September – early October
Access: Nishikawamachi (from Shizu Onsen), Haguro Town, Tsuruoka City (Gassan 8th Station Rest House)

Mt. Yudono

One of the sacred Dewa mountains, Mt. Yudono (Yudonosan) reaches its peak autumn colors in mid-October (in 2025, the peak is expected to be between October 22nd to 28th). At 1,500 m, it is one of the earliest spots for autumn foliage in Yamagata Prefecture, attracting many visitors during the season.

Visitors can reach the mountain from the rest house near the large torii gate, by bus or on foot. The gentle 1 km ridge to the main shrine is perfect for a scenic stroll. The contrast between the bright vermilion torii and the colorful mountains is incredibly photogenic.

Note: Photography is prohibited at the main shrine itself, so enjoy the beauty with your eyes and memory.
Season open until November 1st-3rd.

Peak foliage: October
Access: 7 Rokujuri, Tamugimata, Tsuruoka City (Yudonosan Rest House). By car or hiking through the Rokujurigoe Kaido Pilgrimage Route, (hiking route here)

Tamugimata village & the Nanatsu Falls

Along the Rokujurigoe Kaido, a historic pilgrimage route connecting Shonai and Mt. Yudono, lies the Nanatsutaki Falls, selected as one of Japan’s top 100 waterfalls. Six streams merge into a single, spectacular 90 m waterfall. In autumn, the surrounding red and yellow mountains create an unforgettable scene. The Tamugimata village at the waterfalls’ entrance, is particularly flamboyant with its two thatch-roofed houses: the Tasominka and Kayabukiya Inn, surrounded in red, orange and yellow leaves.

Know more about the Rokujurigoe Kaido Pilgrimage Route on www.thedewasanzan.com

Peak foliage: late October – early November
Access: The Rokujurigoe Kaido Pilgrimage Route, (hiking route here, detailed course here)

Bonjigawa Gorge

Bonjikawa Gorge offers stunning views of the flowing Bonji River surrounded by autumn foliage. Highlights include Komenoko Falls and nearby Akakura Aokura, both popular foliage spots. The Nabira-Yukitsuri Bridge features a heart-shaped rock where visitors can toss small stones wrapped in leaves for good luck.

Peak foliage: late-October – early November
Access: 3-1 Naira, Echu Mountain, Tsuruoka City (Michi-no-Eki Gassan) (car only)

Tsuruoka Park

Located on the site of the former Tsuruoka Castle, home of the Shonai clan for 250 years, Tsuruoka Park is filled with historic remnants like moats, stone walls, and centuries-old cedar trees. Known for flowers in every season, it’s also a famous cherry blossom spot. In autumn, the park becomes a prime location for colorful foliage, surrounded by historic buildings and sites, and settings featured in Shohei Fujisawa’s novels.

Peak foliage: early November
Access: 4 Baba-cho, Tsuruoka City, by bus (bus stop names: Chidohakubutsukan)

Yutagawa Onsen’s surroundings (Minakami Hachiman shrine, Tagawa’s Kumano-jinja shrine)

Located in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture, Yutagawa Onsen is one of the three famous hot spring resorts in the Shonai region. Surrounded by lush nature and known for its warm hospitality, it welcomes many visitors every year.

With a history spanning 1,300 years, Yutagawa Onsen was recognized in 2001 by Japan’s Ministry of the Environment as a National Health and Wellness Hot Spring, a designation that highlights its excellent water quality and pristine natural environment.

The hot spring, famous as a traditional “toji” therapeutic bath with naturally flowing spring water, can be enjoyed at the local inns, two communal bathhouses, and one foot bath. Not far from Yutagawa Onsen is Mt. Kinbo, a small mountain that can be hiked within 2 hours up and 2 hours down, giving a beautiful view on the Shonai plains and the Sea of Japan. Within 2 km is the Mizusawa Kumano Shrine, a picturesque hidden spot featuring a vibrant red torii gate, gracefully framed by a circle of bamboo and beech trees, not far from the Minakami Hachiman Shrine, a spot famous for its moss-covered paths; which make Yutagawa Onsen the perfect place to stay for a “red foliage hunting cycling session”. You can rent e-bikes from Yutagawa Onsen’s Tsukasaya ryokan up to 48h before planned cycling date.

Peak foliage: early November
Access: By bus (bus stop names: Yutagawa Onsen for the inner hot spring village, Tagawakomisenmae for the Mizusawa Kumano shrine)

Gyokusenji Temple

Founded in 1251 during the Kamakura period, Gyokusenji is a Soto Zen temple renowned for its expansive gardens, which are designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty. Also known as the “Temple of Flowers,” it offers visitors a vibrant display of blooms throughout the year.

• Spring: Weeping cherry blossoms
• Summer: Azaleas and Japanese irises
• Autumn: Bush clover and Japanese anemones

One of the temple’s highlights is the rare full colony of Kurinsō flowers, which turns the garden red, white, and pink from mid-May to early June.

Visitors can enjoy a traditional matcha tea with seasonal wagashi while admiring the flowers—a unique experience at Gyokusenji.

The temple also hosts the hidden Zen café Suigetsuan, where you can savor coffee, sweets, and even a lunch (available by reservation).

It’s a perfect stop when visiting Mt. Haguro, offering both natural beauty and a peaceful retreat.

Peak foliage: late October

Access: By bus (bus stop name: Otorii + walk 2km until temple)

The Shimoike & Kamiike ponds and Oyama village’s surroundings

Located in the Ōyama district in western Tsuruoka City, the Ōyama Kamiike & Shimoike ponds are two freshwater reservoirs of different sizes. Still used for agricultural irrigation today, they are believed to have nearly 400 years of history, appearing on maps dating back to the Edo period.

By early October, winter birds such as whooper swans and mallards begin arriving from the continent. At dusk, the swans return from nearby rice fields to the ponds, while ducks that rested in the ponds during the day take flight to feed—creating a dramatic scene of intersecting waterfowl in flight.

In early November, Mt. Takadate’s autumn foliage reaches its peak, providing a breathtaking view combining colorful leaves, waterfowl, and the clear blue sky.

Peak foliage: early November

Access: By bus (bus stop name: Oyamakouenguchi)

Far from the well known routes of Japan, the mountains of Tsuruoka preserve a slower and more intimate world shaped by waterfalls, ancient beliefs, forest hamlets, and the quiet resilience of rural life.

This two day journey invites travelers to discover the hidden valleys of the Asahi region, where thatched roof villages still cling to the mountainsides and centuries old temples safeguard the memory of Japan’s spiritual traditions. From encounters with the mysterious sokushinbutsu monks to peaceful Zen meditation surrounded by seasonal colors, the experience reveals a side of Japan rarely seen by international visitors.

Blending nature, spirituality, local gastronomy, and encounters with the people who continue to live in harmony with these landscapes, this itinerary offers a deeply authentic immersion into the cultural heart of rural Yamagata Prefecture. (peak season in the areas presented in this article: mid november)

(Day 1) Asahi area

Before 9:00
Arrival at Tsuruoka Station

9:30am Depart by private car toward the remote Asahi area, a mountainous region known for its deep forests, traditional hamlets, and spiritual heritage.

10:20 am Arrival at Komenoko Falls & Bonjinokura
Explore this unique cultural complex blending modern creativity and rural life:

• A local bouldering gym
• A natural history museum showcasing the region’s ecosystem & the history of the Rokujurigoe Kaido
• A wine shop featuring local productions
• A cozy café space

Have a yamabudo grape ice cream at Bonji Chaya

11:00 Go to Oami hamlet. Visit Dainichibō Temple, home to one of Japan’s rare sokushinbutsu (self-mummified monks), Shinnyokai Shonin.
A deeply moving encounter with the ascetic practices of Shugendō.
(Entrance: 800 yen)

12:30 Lunch at Nanakamado (closed Tuesdays)
Savor handmade tempura soba in a quiet mountain setting.
(Approx. 2,000 yen)

13:30 Go to Tamugimata hamlet, see the Ochiguchi falls

Continue further down the Tamugimata hamlet, appreciate the thatch-roofed houses views

14:00 Continue your way up to the Nanatsu Falls

15:00 Visit the Tasominka merchant house (300 yen/person)

16:00 Go back to Tsuruoka, stay at Yasuno Ryokan

(Day 2) Haguro area

10 am: Go to Gyokusenji Temple (500 yen/person)

Admire the zen garden’s red colors starting to tint the trees

Have the monk teach you Zazen (2000 yen/person) and serve you matcha with wagashi treats (1000 yen/person)

Next destination

Mt. Haguro (Zuishinmon gate)

Or Central Tsuruoka

For more itinerary ideas, read our articles here.

In Yamagata Prefecture, the style of imoni, a traditional Japanese autumn dish, varies by region. In the inland areas, it’s typically made with beef in a soy-based broth, while along the Sea of Japan in the Shonai region, where Tsuruoka City is located, pork simmered in a rich miso broth is the local favorite.

Shonai-style imoni is a hearty, flavorful dish, featuring taro—a staple ingredient—along with pork, green onions, burdock root, konnyaku, mushrooms such as shimeji and shiitake, and thick fried tofu. Perfect for warming up on a crisp autumn day, this stew is a true taste of the region’s culinary tradition.

Typically, this dish is prepared with friends or family, outside, around a heartwarming stove.

Here’s the recipe of Shonai region’s version of imoni:

Ingredients (Serves 4–6)

• Taro (or “zuiki” taro): 200–300 g
• Pork: 150–240 g
• Leek: 100–150 g
• Konjac jelly block: 150–200 g
• Aburaage (fried tofu): 1 piece
• Shiitake mushrooms: 4
• Miso: 3–6 tablespoons
• Sake: 2 tablespoons
• Water or dashi stock: 650 ml
• Some people add 1 carrot and other types of mushrooms, which we recommend!

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Instructions

1. Cut the taro into bite-sized pieces. Tear the konnyaku by hand and briefly boil both to remove any odor.
2. Cut the pork into 3–4 cm pieces, the aburaage into bite-sized strips, and quarter the shiitake mushrooms after removing the stems.
3. In a pot, combine the water (or dashi), taro, konnyaku, and sake. Bring to a boil and simmer.
4. When the taro becomes tender, add the pork, shiitake, and aburaage. Season with miso.
5. Finally, add the green onions cut diagonally and cook briefly before serving.

Staying safe in bear habitats

When entering areas where bears live, it is important to make your presence known through scent or sound so that bears can avoid you. The Asiatic Black Bear (tsukinowaguma ツキノワグマ) doesn’t normally prey on humans for food. It mainly feeds on fruits, nuts, insects and little mammals. The black bear will avoid human presence as much as possible. That being said, when meeting a human by surprise, the bear is likely to attack by instinct, or flee.

Going in a group, using bear bells, and other measures can help achieve this. Depending on the situation and location, you can adjust which noise-making tools to use. Avoid areas where bears have been recently sighted.

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Letting bears know you are there

In areas with few people : Using a Bear Bell
On less-traveled routes or side trails, where human presence is minimal, using a bear bell is recommended. This is especially important for solo hikers. Attach the bell to your backpack or belt so that it rings with your movement. The sound and tone vary depending on the shape and material of the bell, so carrying different types can cover a wider range of situations. There are also bells with a mute function, useful when traveling on trains or buses.

Buy a bear bell

Buy a bear bell on Amazon.co.jp; in a Montbell shop or in one of our “home centers” (DIY stores) in Tsuruoka:
-Close to Tsuruoka station : Komeri Tsuruoka

-Close to Mt. Haguro: Komeri Haguro
-Close to Shonai Kankobussankan bus station: Musashi

Using a Bear Horn – 130dB
Using a spray-type whistle can produce a sound louder than a car horn—130 decibels, audible up to 805 meters. When entering bear habitats, use it periodically to alert bears from a distance and prevent encounters. It can also be used as an emergency whistle in case of accidents.

Buy a bear horn in a Montbell shop (around 3400 yen)

https://webshop.montbell.jp/goods/disp.php?product_id=1899177

When Moving Slowly (e.g., foraging for wild plants) : Using the Radio or music on your smartphone
If your movements are minimal, such as during foraging, and bear bells may not make enough noise, consider playing a radio or making other forms of audible presence.

How to react if you encounter a bear

From a distance (~50 meters)
If you notice a bear far away, remain calm and quietly leave the area. Avoid sudden movements or loud shouts, as they may startle the bear. Be especially cautious around mother bears, which are more likely to be aggressive.

• Retreat slowly and quietly while keeping your eyes on the bear.
• Do not run, turn your back, make loud noises, or leave your belongings behind.

Closer distance (~20 meters)
Back away slowly and quietly, keeping obstacles between you and the bear. Do not run or shout. If the bear charges, remember that many charges are bluff charges, and the bear may stop and back off on its own. Stay calm and respond cautiously.

At very close range, or if the bear approaches

• Use bear spray without hesitation.

Buy a bear spray in a Montbell shop (around 13400 yen)

https://webshop.montbell.jp/goods/disp.php?product_id=1899176&top_sk=%E7%86%8A%E3%82%B9%E3%83%97%E3%83%AC%E3%83%BC

Buy bear spray on Amazon

Option A

Option B

Take advantage of any hesitation by the bear to move to a safe place.
Bear spray is a pepper-based spray that temporarily blinds and disorients a bear, giving you time to retreat.
At very close range, the risk of a direct attack or an aggressive reaction is higher. There is no guaranteed way to prevent an attack, but carrying and knowing how to use bear spray greatly increases your chances of deterring a bear.
Do not store bear spray inside your backpack—keep it on your belt or in an accessible pocket so you can use it quickly. Practice deploying it before you go hiking.

• Spray effectiveness is reduced if you are farther from the bear than the spray range. Once you have sprayed the bear, run as fast as possible to escape to a safe place (car, lodge, restaurant, etc)

In case an attack is inevitable:

Lie on the ground and curl your body into a tight ball, with your knees pulled to your chest.
Keep your backpack on—it will protect your back.
Use your arms and hands to cover your head and the back of your neck.

Always try to hike with someone else as much as possible

Try to avoid hiking alone whenever possible.
Hike with friends, or consider hiring a guide.
Groups of two or more people are less likely to be attacked by bears.
However, being in a group does not replace carrying bear spray or following other safety precautions.

If you spot a bear

Please let us know by contacting us through our contact form and precise:

Where, when, and how many bears you have spot. Please specify if you are safe or if you were attacked.

Thank you, and please stay safe on our hiking trails.

This year marks the 35th anniversary of Atsumi Sharin Michi-no-Eki, and a special day of festivities is planned to celebrate the occasion!

🎶 At 1:30 PM, enjoy a dynamic taiko drum performance to kick off the afternoon.

🎭 In the evening, don’t miss the annual Sunset Noh performance—a unique, open-air rendition of the local Yamato Noh (山戸能), known as Yūhi Noh (夕陽能), starting from 5:30 PM as the sun sets over the Sea of Japan.

🎈 Between performances, there will be plenty of fun activities for children, including a prize raffle and yo-yo fishing—perfect for families looking to enjoy the full day.

About Yamato Noh & Yamairagawa Kabuki

Yamato Noh

Yamato Noh is a sacred Noh performance held during the annual grand festival of Kawachi Shrine, the guardian shrine of the Yamairagawa area.
As for its origins, documents remaining in the region suggest two main theories: one says it was introduced around the year 866 , while another attributes its arrival to the Kan’ei era. However, the exact details remain unclear. In the past, around the year 1901, there were approximately 120 Noh plays in the repertoire. Today, however, only nine plays remain: Hagoromo, Takasago, Shōjō, Kamo, Chikubushima, Funa Benkei, Kanehira, Kasuga Ryūjin, and Rashōmon.
One of these is performed each year. However, all 120 original scripts are still carefully preserved to this day.

Yamairagawa Kabuki
One can’t speak of Yamato Noh without evoking the Yamairagawa Kabuki, as both are performed on the same day in the Kawachi Shrine. The exact origins are unclear, but it is said to have begun over 250 years ago when local youths performed a play as an offering of gratitude to the ascetic monk Tetsumonkai of Mt. Yudono, who had saved the village by driving out an epidemic.
Like Yamato Noh, Yamairagawa Kabuki is a sacred performance dedicated to Kawachi Shrine and is held locally every spring and autumn. The repertoire includes 14 plays across 37 scenes, and the tradition has received high acclaim both in Japan and abroad, including the prestigious Mokichi Saito Cultural Award in 1970.

What to do in the area

• Nezugaseki Port & its lighthouse

Located at the southernmost tip of Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture, the port town of Nezugaseki is renowned for its beautiful coastline and the bounty of its rich fishing grounds. Representing the pride of this area is Nezugaseki Port, one of the most prominent fishing ports in the prefecture, where approximately 342 different species of fish are landed. It is also famous for its many marine activities (upon reservation through GreenBlue Atsumi’s website) such as kayaking, SUP or fishing/cooking experiences. Strolling around the lighthouse and the nearby shrine will definitely make beautiful pictures and memories before attending to the Sunset Noh performance.

• Nezugaseki’s fish auctions (seri 鼠ヶ関競り）

When people think of fish auctions, they often imagine early-morning events. However, Nezugaseki stands out for its unique practice of holding auctions in the evening, in order to ship the catch in time for early-morning sales at major markets like Tokyo’s Toyosu.

Another distinctive feature of Nezugaseki’s auction is its format. Here, a method called “Itazeri” is used: bidders write coded numbers (called fuchō) on a blackboard, and the highest bid wins instantly. Unlike standard auctions, this “board auction” format brings with it a unique sense of tension and excitement.

• Asahiya Sushi Restaurant

The master of this legendary sushi restaurant only serves high quality local fish and will talk passionately about his work (in Japanese!) while you relish on his carefully formed sushi; beloved as ones of the most delicious sushis in the city.

August 24th, 2025’s event’s location

Atsumi Sharin Michinoeki
How to go there without a car: (by train) Get off the JR line at Koiwagawa Station, walk 20 minutes.

or get off the JR line at Nezugaseki Station, walk 45 minutes.

All photos’ copyrights go to Jo Igarashi.

In the Fujishima area, lion dances are so widely preserved and passed down that it is known as the “Land of Lions.” Notable examples can be found in villages such as Oya 大谷, Soegawa 添川, Higashihorikoshi 東堀越, or Watamae 渡前. While the exact origins of the dances in each of these communities are unclear, they are believed to be quite old. It is said that the art of the lion dance was first learned by the Tang dynasty from the West and later brought to Japan from Tang China. These dances have been performed as a ritual to drive away evil spirits.

The lion used in the dance is a single-person type, and there are five main lions: the central lion (nakajishi), the banner lion (hatajishi), the egret (shirasagi), the male lion (ojishi), and the female lion (mejishi), with the central lion taking the lead in performance. The decorations on the lion’s head differ depending on the lion. From the head hangs a curtain, a drum is attached in front of the belly, and a hoop-like shoulder frame is worn. In addition to the lions, the full troupe consists of about 30 people, including cross-dressed sasara players (playing a bamboo instrument), sword performers, stick performers, and singers. Accompanied by songs and the beat of drums, the lions leap and dance energetically.

While the musical pieces vary slightly by location, they often include “Great Dance,” “Bridge Crossing,” “Curtain Hanging,” “Madness of the Female Lion,” “Bow Dance,” and “Grass Tossing,” which are combined as appropriate. The dances are often performed during Obon-centered festivals, starting with a “spirit-entering” ceremony. The troupe first dances at the local shrine and then, upon request, visits and performs at the homes of parishioners.

This type of dance broadly consists of two key elements. One is the lion appearing as a divine messenger—or even as a deity itself—to bless the village and its households with happiness.

The second element is rooted in the belief that lions originally symbolized misfortune or were creatures that ravaged fields and crops. The lion first appears in this form. However, people of old believed that such a lion also had the power to suppress evil spirits. If venerated as a god, the lion would repent and pledge to serve as a guardian that subdues malevolent forces, bringing happiness to people and protecting agriculture.

When the lion, having once been subdued (appuku), is reborn with new divine vitality, the sasara player appears, and the lion performs a joyful frenzied dance. The role of subduing the lion belongs to the sword and stick performers. Another notable element is a scene called “the hiding of the female lion,” in which two male lions compete for her affection. In this way, the lion embodies intense expressions of romantic passion, representing a primitive prayer for fertility and abundance.

Moreover, the dance itself is said to be derived from the tradition of Buddhist chanting dances (nenbutsu odori), which developed from the medieval period onward.

Where to watch the Fujishima Lion Dance?

August 14th (Thursday)

Oya Shishimai Lion Dance 大谷獅子舞

8:00 Shishi-mai performance

Location: Hosenji Temple (Okawado) 宝泉寺（大川渡）

How to go:

By train: 30 min. walk from the Fujishima JR Station (itinerary)

August 15th (Friday)

Ike shrine’s Furukôri Kagura performance 古郡神楽

11:00 Kagura-mai (dance)

Location: Inside Ike shrine’s precincts 池神社境内

12:00 Official prayer ceremony

Location: Inside Ike shrine 池神社

How to go:

By train: 28 min. walk from the Fujishima JR Station (itinerary)

Gosho shrine’s Watamae Shishiodori (Children’s Lion Dance) 渡前獅子踊り(子ども獅子）

13:30 Official prayer ceremony

Location: Inside Gosho Shrine 五所神社

Around 14:00 Children’s Shishi Dance performance

Location: Inside Gosho Shrine’s precincts 五所神社境内

How to go:

By train: 31 min. walk from the Fujishima JR Station (itinerary)

Ochi shrine’s Oya Shishimai Lion Dance 大地神社大谷獅子舞

10:00 & 19:00 Shishimai

Location: Ochi shrine’s precincts 大地神社境内

How to go:

By train: 3.3km away from the Fujishima JR Station (itinerary)

Jumonji Kotai shrine’s Kagura performance 十文字皇大神社神楽

11:00 Kagura performance

Location: Jumonji Kotai shrine’s precincts 十文字皇大神社境内

How to go:

By bus: take the bus bound for Mt. Haguro (Haguro Gassan-hachigome), get off the bus at Jyumonji, walk 1 minute to the shrine

August 16th (Saturday)

Naganuma Hachiman shrine’s Kagura performance 長沼八幡神社神楽

13:00 Official prayer ceremony

Location: Inside the Naganuma Hachiman shrine 長沼八幡神社

13:30 Kagura performance

Location: Naganuma Hachiman shrine’s precincts 長沼八幡神社境内

How to go:

By car (easiest)

By bus: take the bus to Aeon Mikawa Bus Terminal, take a taxi from there (itinerary)

Niiyama Shrine’s Higashi Horikoshi Shishiodori Lion Dance 東堀越獅子踊り

13:00 Shishiodori Lion Dance

Location : Niiyama shrine’s precincts 新山神社境内

How to go:

By car (easiest)

By bus: take the bus to Mt. Haguro (Haguro Gassan Hachigome), get off the bus at Haguro Kokomae, walk 3km (itinerary) to the shrine

August 18th (Monday)

Soegawa Ryosho Shrine’s Shishimai (Lion Dance) 添川両所神社御獅子舞

13:00 Official Prayer Ceremony

Location: Soegawa Ryosho shrine 添川両所神社

14:00 Kuneri performance

Location: Soegawa Ryosho shrine’s precincts 添川両所神社

How to go:

By car (easiest)

By bus: take the bus to Mt. Haguro (Haguro Gassan Hachigome), get off the bus at Haguroannaisho, walk 4km to the shrine (itinerary)

All the Shishimai performances on the map

(Open the map in a new tab to see the dates & times)

July 5th (Saturday) – Kotakuji Temple’s Fireflies Watching Event

Firefly Viewing Event at Kagemizawa (in front of Kotakuji Temple)

Join us for an evening observing Genji fireflies at Kagemizawa, located just in front of Kotakuji Temple.

🕰 Time: 7:30 PM (ends around 8:30 PM)
💴 Fee: Free
📌 What to bring: Insect repellent spray, etc.
👕 Please wear clothing suitable for cool weather.
☔ In case of bad weather, the event will be canceled.
To check whether the event will be held, please contact us between 5:00–5:30 PM on the day.
No advance registration is required.

July 6th (Sunday) – Yutagawa Kagura in Shonai Shrine

Yutagawa Kagura Dedication Performance at Shonai Shrine

The Yutagawa Kagura is a traditional sacred dance passed down in the Yutagawa area—one of Tsuruoka’s beloved hot spring towns.
It is said that in the past, this dance was performed at the Sakai family’s domain residence, the very deities enshrined at Shonai Shrine today.

As part of the 70th anniversary of the Yutagawa Kagura Preservation Society, we are honored to host a special dedication performance here at Shonai Shrine.

🗓 Date: Sunday, July 6, 2025
🕒 Time: From 3:30 PM
📍 Location: Shonai Shrine – Main Path (Sando)
💴 Admission: Free

✨ On this day only, we will have special Yutagawa Kagura-themed stamps featuring the lion head and Hyottoko face available. Feel free to add them to your goshuin (shrine stamp book) as a special keepsake!

July 12th-13th (Saturday to Sunday) – Michinoeki Atsumi Sharin – Sea Festival & Sea Snails Catching Event

Celebrate the Sea Day weekend by the coast at Michi-no-Eki Atsumi Sharin!

🐟 Local seafood processors will be setting up shop, offering delicious marine products
🐚 Try your hand at the turban shell (sazae) grab game—fun for kids and adults alike!

📍 Location: Michi-no-Eki Atsumi “Sharin” Roadside Station
Come enjoy the sea, the flavors, and the summer fun!

July 15th (Tuesday) – Mt. Haguro’s Hanamatsuri (Flower Festival)

Hanamatsuri (Flower-Shaped Bonten Festival) at the Dewa Sanzan Shrine

This vibrant festival is held to pray for a bountiful harvest and safety at home.
The highlight is the ornate “bonten” poles, decorated with artificial rice flowers said to hold great spiritual power.

After circling the Kagami Pond together with the mikoshi (portable shrine), visitors engage in a dramatic scramble for the bonten—a breathtaking sight filled with energy and tradition.

📍 Location: In front of the Sankan-Gōsai-den (Three Gods Hall), Dewa Sanzan Shrine

Don’t miss this powerful and sacred celebration rooted in the mountain faith of Dewa.

July 30th, 31st (Wednesday to Thursday)- Yutagawa Onsen’s Kagura Festival

Yutagawa Onsen Kagura & Ushiyu Event 2025

The Yutagawa Onsen Kagura is a sacred performance with over 400 years of tradition, passed down in the hot spring town of Yutagawa.
Held each year on the Day of the Ox (Doyō no Ushi no Hi) and the day before, it celebrates the renewal of the hot spring waters with a ritual dedication at Yuzusame Shrine, which enshrines the local deities.

The performance features a dynamic lion dance (shishimai) alongside the comical antics of Hyottoko, accompanied by flutes and drums.
This traditional story wards off misfortune and prays for good health, while bringing smiles and excitement to locals and visitors alike.

🗓 Dates:
Wednesday, July 30 & Thursday, July 31, 2025
⏰ Time: From around 8:00 PM
📍 Venue: Yutagawa Onsen – in front of Shōmen no Yu, New Yutagawa Inn, and surrounding locations
(Yutagawa, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture)

✨ During the day, enjoy the fun local event “Ushitoji da I ♡ ♨”, open to both overnight guests and day visitors!

Come experience the spirit, sound, and soul of Yutagawa Onsen.

August 3rd (Sunday) – Fujishima Summer Festival

Fujishima Summer Festival & Traditional Performing Arts Festival

Come join the fun at the Fujishima Natsu Matsuri, where there’s something for everyone!

👧 Kids’ games & festival stalls
🎤 Stage performances – “Fuji Rock Matsuri”
🍢 Yatai food stalls & local vendors

🎭 At the same time, enjoy the 24th Tsuruoka Traditional Performing Arts Festival, where you can watch powerful performances like the Fujishima Lion Dance along with other regional traditional arts—all on one exciting stage!

📍 Location: Fujishima Chiiki Katsudō Center (Fujishima District, Tsuruoka City)

A lively evening filled with tradition, music, and summer fun—don’t miss it!

August 9th (Saturday) – Universal Beach Festival

Inclusive “Day at the Sea” Event

This is a seaside event where everyone can enjoy the ocean, regardless of ability or disability.
Come feel the breeze, experience the water, and share the joy of summer together!

📍 Location: Marine Park Nezugaseki
📞 Contact: Dream Yamagata Satoyama Project – Shonai Office
TEL: 0234-21-8250

Let’s make the sea a place for everyone!

August 15th (Friday) – Fujishima Shishiodori (Lion Dance) & Other traditional dances – Part 1

Where = Fujishima district, more specifically = Ike Shrine, Gosho Shrine, Daichi Shrine

Read more about how and where to see the Fujishima Lion Dance on our dedicated article here.

August 16th (Saturday) – Akagawa Fireworks

32nd Akagawa Fireworks Festival – Celebrating 20 Years of Tsuruoka City

One of Japan’s most stunning summer fireworks displays returns!
To mark the 20th anniversary of Tsuruoka City, this year’s Akagawa Fireworks Festival will light up the sky with 12,000 spectacular fireworks.

📍 Location: Akagawa Riverside, Tsuruoka City (between Mikawa Bridge and Haguro Bridge)
📞 Contact: Akagawa Fireworks Festival Committee – 0235-64-0701
🔗 Official Website

Don’t miss this unforgettable night under the summer sky!

August 16th (Saturday) – Fujishima Shishiodori (Lion Dance) & Other traditional dances – Part 2

Where = Fujishima district, more specifically = Jumonji Kotai Shrine 十文字皇大神社境内

Read more about how and where to see the Fujishima Lion Dance on our dedicated article here.

August 18th (Monday) – Fujishima Shishiodori (Lion Dance) & Other traditional dances – Part 3

Where = Fujishima district, more specifically = Niiyama shrine 新山神社, Soikawa Ryosho shrine 添川両所神社

Read more about how and where to see the Fujishima Lion Dance on our dedicated article here.

August 24th (Sunday)- Sunset Noh at Michinoeki Atsumi Sharin

🥁＼Sunset Noh & Benten Taiko Performance at Michi-no-Eki Atsumi “Sharin”／🌅

Enjoy a powerful live performance of Nezugaseki Benten Taiko drumming, followed by an atmospheric Sunset Noh Theater performance—set against the stunning seaside backdrop.

📍 Location: Michi-no-Eki Atsumi “Sharin” Roadside Station

A summer evening filled with rhythm, tradition, and the beauty of the setting sun. Don’t miss it!

August 24th (Sunday) – Yamagata String Quartet Concert

🎻＼Enjoy a String Quartet Concert in a Meiji-Style Retro Hall／🎶

Step back in time and experience beautiful string quartet music in a charming hall filled with Meiji-era atmosphere.

🕜 Time: Doors open at 1:30 PM, concert starts at 2:00 PM
💴 Admission: 2,000 yen
📍 Venue: Higashitagawa Cultural Memorial Hall – Meiji Hall

A perfect afternoon for music lovers and history fans alike!

This list is non-exhaustive.

This delicious green bean, famously spotlighted in Abroad in Japan’s video: “Why I Hate Japanese TV,” left him puzzled because he couldn’t quite figure out what made these beans so special. (No hard feelings—we know it’s a subtle difference and the crew didn’t really help you!)

For a few decades, Japanese media have crowned Dadacha-mame the “King of Edamame” for its unparalleled sweetness and flavor.

Dadacha-mame is a traditional heirloom variety of edamame with a Protected Designation of Origin, cultivated for generations by local farmers in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture, since the Edo period. Unlike regular edamame, Dadacha-mame is smaller, covered with brown fuzz, and has uniquely wrinkled pods.

Grown in Tsuruoka’s Hakusan district, Dadacha-mame thrives in sandy, well-drained soil that’s perfect for activating rhizobia bacteria, essential for healthy soybeans. Dr. ABE Toshinori from the Yamagata University Agricultural Research team has compared the components of 12 edamame species in his “Dadachamame – Oishisa no himitsu to saibai” and has found that the Dadacha-mame Hakusan variety contains more GABA amino acids (good for lowering blood sugar) and 2-Acetyl-1-pyrroline (aromas) than others, justifying its unique fragrance and taste! (p.36)

The name “Dadacha-mame” reportedly comes from the Sakai family, lords of the Shonai Domain. In the local dialect, “dadacha” means “father” or “old man.” Legend says the feudal lord enjoyed edamame daily and would ask, “Whose dadacha grew these edamame today?” Over time, the beans earned the affectionate name Dadacha-mame.

But is there really a difference between Dadacha-mame and regular edamame?

Ask a local, and they’ll say it’s incomparable. So why didn’t Chris get it?

It’s understandable! Telling apart Dadacha-mame from regular edamame is like distinguishing an Ehime mikan from a standard clementine, or an Obanazawa watermelon from an ordinary one. Without a calm, comfortable tasting setting and side-by-side comparison, it’s tough to pinpoint the differences—especially standing in a field under 40°C with just a handful of the same beans (we’re sorry he had to go through this..!); that being said, it doesn’t mean Ehime’s mikans or Obanazawa’s watermelons are no better than your average deal you find in the supermarkets.

Let’s break down what makes Dadacha-mame so special by first understanding regular edamame.

Edamame are simply immature soybeans (Glycine max Merr.) boiled in their pods and eaten whole. Eating soybeans this way is a relatively recent discovery because wild soybeans were once too bitter and tough to eat raw or lightly cooked.

Historical records say soybeans arrived in China between 400 and 200 BCE, coming from the north. Known as “ebisumame” (barbarian beans) for their foreign origin, they soon became one of China’s five sacred grains.

In Japan, soybeans likely came during the Yayoi period (300 BCE–300 CE), possibly alongside wet rice cultivation. Archaeological digs at Jomon sites (14,000–300 BCE) found small beans like wild soy (tsurumame) and mung beans (ryokutō), but not larger cultivated soybeans.

So when did the Japanese start eating soybeans as edamame?

The word “edamame” probably comes from harvesting immature soybeans with their stems (eda) attached. This practice dates back to the Heian period (794–1185). Around this time, fermented soy products like hishio were also evolving—from thick pastes to more liquid sauces. By the Kamakura period (1185–1333), tamari—a rich fermented soy sauce made from roasted soybeans, barley, malted rice, and salt—was developed.

By the Muromachi period (1336–1573), the word “shōyu” (soy sauce) appeared in early Japanese texts, referring to the oily liquid floating atop hishio. During the Edo period (1603–1868), Japan perfected tamari production methods, laying the foundation for modern soy sauce.

Japan also developed natto, a sticky fermented soybean dish. While its exact origins are unclear, the conditions for natto likely existed by the Yayoi period—rice and soybeans had arrived, and homes had straw floors perfect for natural fermentation.

If boiling soybeans happened then, it’s possible that eating immature soybeans as edamame also started, though this is speculative and hard to date with precision.

In the early Meiji period (1870s’-1880’s), the Shonai Clan cultivated “Komagi”—the ancestor of Dadacha-mame. This variety’s sweet, umami-rich flavor, fuzzy pods, and satisfyingly firm crunch raised the bar for edamame quality nationwide.

To sum up: before the 19th century, soybeans weren’t tasty enough to eat as edamame as we do today. They were too bitter, and the texture wasn’t pleasant, hence why they mainly served for shoyu, tofu and other fermented food. Komagi improved the standard, and soon Dadacha-mame and other notorious beans (like Niigata’s Kurosakichamame)’s reputation spread across Japan, pushing all producers to improve their game—making it harder for most people to tell varieties apart.

If you get the chance, visit Tsuruoka from late July to late August—the official Dadacha-mame harvest season. Buy fresh Dadacha-mame and frozen ones from the supermarket, boil each for 3–4 minutes, cool in ice water, salt them, and taste. We promise you’ll notice the difference! Dadacha-mame has no bitterness or acidity—just pure sweetness, umami, and a firm texture that sets it apart from the regular edamame served in most izakayas.

Still unsure? Try these Dadacha-mame treats in Tsuruoka:

• Dadachamame Sasa-dango mochi balls (Dadacha Sasadango だだちゃ笹団子)

• Dadachamame heart-shaped cookies (Dadacha Heart)

• Dadappai (dadachamame-filled pies) and Dadakko (dadachamame-filled manju steamed cake)

Dadacha-mame ice cream (だだちゃアイス)

Where: Shonai Kankobussankan’s souvenir shop & market

And if you plan on continuing your journey to the Pacific side, stop at Sendai city to try their Zunda (sweetened edamame paste) made of Dadacha-mame!

Main sources for this article:

• Kyoto University Research Information Repository, 江頭宏冒新田麻子, 森田敦雄, 赤澤経也, 『ダダチャ豆の種類と歴史』, pdf link here
• ABE Toshinori, 『ダダチャマメーおいしさの秘密と栽培』、農文協、2008年、p-1-2, 8-24, p78-90