This charming farm-to-table restaurant is owned by the warm-hearted Japanese proprietor, Mrs. Chonan Mitsu. Recognized for her thoughtful approach to food, Mitsu was honored in the “100 Best Farmer-Lodge Okaasan” by the Japanese government in 2009. Central to her philosophy is the cultivation of vegetables and rice on her own farm, ensuring the highest quality of ingredients for her customers. Mitsu staunchly avoids additives, relying instead on natural elements to enhance the flavors of local cuisine.
By exclusively preparing local dishes with homegrown vegetables, Mitsu aims to impart the allure of Tsuruoka’s rustic traditions to her patrons. Notably, Mitsu is adept at adapting her meals for vegans and vegetarians. It is advisable to inform her of any dietary restrictions, specifically regarding animal products, including bonito powder, when making a reservation (動物性食品, dôbutsusei-shokuhin).
Shinchaya
Shinchaya is a long-standing traditional Japanese cuisine restaurant known for its exceptional culinary offerings. The signature dish of the establishment is the “tamagoyaki” (rolled omelet). What sets Shinchaya’s tamagoyaki apart is its lustrous sheen and its soft, jelly-like texture.
For guests with specific dietary preferences, Shinchaya is flexible and can accommodate pescetarian, vegetarian, and vegan meals with advance reservation, preferably up to 2 days prior to your planned visit. This ensures that the restaurant can tailor the dining experience to meet individual dietary needs.
Saikan
Saikan is a Shinto pilgrim lodge and lunch restaurant located within the premises of the former Buddhist temple called Shôon’in, constructed in 1697. After the religious separation between Shinto and Buddhism in 1868 (1869 in Haguro), the building underwent conversion to Shintoism and was renamed Saikan.
A significant site for Shinto yamabushi during their retreat training, Saikan plays a crucial role in various ceremonies. For instance, it serves as the location where the yamabushi concludes the Shoreisai ceremony by partaking in the Nishi sushi.
Chef Ito Shinkichi presents his interpretation of Dewa Sanzan shojin-ryori daily, offering a Shinto version of the originally Buddhist dish. This culinary endeavor aims to pay homage to the magnificence of nature. While shojin-ryori can be prepared as a vegan dish, it is essential to notify Chef Ito Shinkichi three days in advance if you have specific dietary preferences.
Okimizuki
Okimizuki is the restaurant situated within Kamo Aquarium, recognized as the largest jellyfish-themed aquarium globally. The establishment is led by Suda Takeshi, a seafood chef renowned for his exceptional skills in preparing sole sashimi and his expertise in handling fugu fish (blowfish).
Chef Suda holds the national diploma required for safely cooking fugu fish for patrons, ensuring there is no risk for those tempted by this renowned delicacy. Among Chef Suda’s notable creations is the fugu sashimi artfully arranged into the shape of a crane, showcasing his culinary mastery.
In addition to his expertise in seafood, Chef Suda is celebrated for his innovative approach to Tsuruoka’s traditional dishes, incorporating them into modern menus. One such creation is the Kitamaebune Gozen menu, introduced in 2021. This menu pays homage to the culinary discoveries and innovations brought to Tsuruoka by merchants sailing along the Kitamae maritime road from the 18th century to the early 20th century.
Naa
Naa is a quaint restaurant tucked behind a farm, offering a unique dining experience. The proprietors utilize organic vegetables primarily cultivated on the farm. The restaurant’s interior reflects the typical style of the 80s in Japan, providing a nostalgic ambiance. From inside, patrons can enjoy a panoramic view of Mt. Gassan and Mt. Kinbo.
For those eager to savor Tsuruoka’s delectable vegetable cuisine in a setting reminiscent of a Japanese family meal, a visit to Naa is highly recommended. Lunch menus begin at 990 yen, while dinner options start at 3,000 yen.
Takitaro
Takitaro is a restaurant that specializes in serving traditional local cuisine for both lunch and dinner. With lunch menus starting at 1200 yen per person, the focus is on showcasing the richness of local seafood. Depending on the season, Takitaro also features typical seasonal dishes, such as Yamagata’s imoni potato soup in autumn or the kandara-jiru black cod soup in winter.
For those seeking to experience the soulful flavors of Tsuruoka’s cuisine at affordable prices and conveniently located around the station (just an 8-minute walk away), Takitaro is a must-visit destination.
Atsumi-kabu : Atsumi’s red turnip
For over 330 years, the Atsumi region in Tsuruoka City has been practicing slash-and-burn cultivation for its red turnip: the “Atsumi-kabu”, making it one of the oldest surviving indigenous crops in Yamagata Prefecture. This crop, known as “Atsumi Kabu,” is renowned for its crisp texture, making it a delectable choice for pickling. Remarkably, historical records from over 200 years ago mention its high value, with 18 kabu being exchanged for one shō (a traditional Japanese unit of volume) of rice, highlighting its esteemed status.
It is mostly eaten as a sweet “tsukemono,” pickled in a mixture of vinegar, salt and sugar.
Hike to the top of Mt. Haguro
Climb the 2446 steps within the cedar forests that received 3 stars in the Green Michelin Guide.
Distance
3.5km
Elevation
310meters
Required Time
1.2h
Danger level
Rather safe *Dangers include:Heat strokes, Slippery when raining
Difficulty level (for beginners)
Moderate
Equipment needed
● Water ● Hiking shoes or sneakers ● Rainwear or umbrella
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.
1. Start climbing from Zuishinmon
To come by bus from the Station, get on the bus bound for Hagurosan 羽黒山行き in front of the station (Tsuruoka ekimae 鶴岡駅前) at the bus stop n°1 バスのりば①, and get off the bus at Haguro Zuishinmon 羽黒随神門.
2. Beyond this point is the start of Haguro’s steps
2446 stone steps are waiting for you. Make sure to bring enough water with you.
3. Go down the Mamako-zaka
Go down the Mamakozaka 継子坂, to arrive at the Haraikawa shrines 祓川. This place is the metaphor of hell in Dewa Sanzan’s Shugendo practices.
4. On your right, you will find the Suga Falls
The Suga falls 須賀の滝 are where the yamabushi priests of the Dewa Sanzan shrine accomplish the Omisogi cleansing ritual in late March.
5. A little bit further, on your left, is Grandpa Cedar
Grandpa Cedar (Jiji-sugi 爺杉) is a Natural National Monument that has more than 1000 years old.
6. A little further, yo will find the Five-Storied Pagoda
A National Treasure.
7. Continue climbing
This is what the Oibunseki 追分石 looks like.
8. Continue
9. You will arrive at the Ninosaka slope
The Ninosaka 二ノ坂 slope is the steepest part of Mt. Haguro’s hike.
10. You can rest at Ninosaka Teahouse
Ninosaka Chaya 二ノ坂茶屋 is a teahouse that proposes tea, mochi cakes (chikara mochi 力餅), drinks and souvenirs. Please buy a little something if you wish to use the teahouse to rest.
11. Continue hiking
12.On your left, an ancient graveyard
A giant cedar tree divided in two trunks marks the spot of an ancient graveyard. It is authorized to visit and take pictures, but please remain respectful of the place when visiting.
13. Graveyard
14. Ancient Buddhist statues
15. Ancient Buddhist statues
16.In front of the graveyard, the Izanagi shrine
17. The Izanagi shrine ruins and its torii
18. Continue hiking
19. A little further, on your right, the path to Minamidani.
It takes 15 minutes to arrive to Minami dani’s ruins.
20. If you followed the path to Minamidani, you arrive to the lake
Minami-dani is the place where the poet Matsuo Basho retreated during his visit of Mt. Haguro to write haïkus. Go back to the path you came by to go back to Mt. Haguro’s hiking trail.
21. After climbing the Sannosaka, you arrive at the Haniyamahime Shrine
This shrine binds couples for eternity and boosts the couples’ fertility.
22. A little further, on your left: Saikan
Saikan can serve shojin-ryori for lunch (on reservation) and also proposes lodging for the night.
23. Saikan’s entrance
24. A little further, the top of Mt. Haguro
When you have arrived to the big thatched-roof shrine (Sanjingosaiden), your hike has ended. Otsukaresama deshita! お疲れ様でした! (“congratulations for your efforts!”)
25. You can rest inside Sanshuden
Sanshuden 参集殿 is free to access for everybody who wish to rest. You can find drinks, amulets and a museum (free) inside.
26. If you continue straight: the Dewa Sanzan Museum
Further this point, you will arrive at Hagurosan Sancho’s parking lot, where you will also find food stands, souvenir shops and toilets.
Rokujurigoe-Kaido: From the Nanatsu falls to Yudono
The final step before reaching Mt. Haguro through the Rokujurigoe-Kaido pilgrim trail.
● Water ● Hiking shoes ● Rainwear ● Sun hat ● Hiking sticks ● Food or snacks
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100
1. Locate the Nanatsu Falls
The Nanatsu Falls are located up a small village called Tamugimata 田麦俣. You can recognize Tamugimata by its thatched-roof houses like the Tasôminka 多層民家. If you come by bus, get off the bus at Tamugimata bus stop 田麦俣バス停. Walk up the waterfalls for 15 minutes from there.
You can recognize the start of the trial at the flag floating around. Don’t forget to write your name in the notebook inside the little wooden house. It will help us rescue you if needed. You need a bear bell from here.
3. Enter the wild forest
4. The forest continues
5. You enter a cedar forest
Make sure your bear bell is making enough noise before entering here.
6. Follow the path in the cedar forest
7. You arrive at the Kobo Chaya
The Kobo Chaya 弘法茶屋 are the ruins of a teahouse where Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism is said to have stayed during his trip here.
8. (Optional) Go further this point to find the Kobo Spring
Fill your water bottle here. The Kobo Spring (弘法清水) is said to have been found by Kobo Daishi himself.
9. Follow a path to the beech forest
You leave the cedar forest to enter the beech tree forest.
10. You spot the Dragon God Beech Tree
11. Follow the Tsukanara
Follow the path called Tsukanara 塚なら.
12. Get out of the forest
At some point, you will leave the forest to find a paved road. If you feel unwell, do not go further and seek help to return to the city. If you feel well enough, take the elevated bridge to go back to the forest.
13. You come across a detour road
14. Follow the path inside the beech forest
15. There is another detour road
16. You come across this sign
The sign says: “Rokujurigoe Kaido: the pilgrimage to Mt. Yudono” 六十里越街道：「ゆどの道」
17. Spot the “Lovey-dovey beeches”
Those trees are connected by one branch, making them look like two lovers holding hands, hence their name: “the Lovey-Dovey Beeches” (Raburabuna ラブラブナ)
18. You come across this Buddhist stele
19. You arrive to the Dokko Chaya
Use the portable toilet if needed.
20. Use the portable toilet.
21. Buddhist statues next to the
If you follow the path to the Dokko Springs 独鈷清水, you will find these Buddhist statues that got their heads severed during the Buddhist purge in the 19th century.
22. Spot this sign to the Senju Buna tree
23. Arrive at the Senju Buna Tree
Senju Buna 千手ブナ means: “The Thousand-Handed Beech tree”.
24. Arrive at the Kohonogi Beech Tree Tunnel
You arrive at the Kohonogi 小堀抜: The “Small Beech Tree Tunnel”.
25. Follow the Ohonogi Beech Tree Tunnel
A little further from the Kohonogi is the Ohonogi 大堀抜: the “Big Beech Tree Tunnel”.
26. Follow the path
27. You arrive at an intersection
Both paths lead to the same end.
28. You arrive at the Hosogoe rest area
Hosogoe-toge 細越峠 is recognizable by its logs and stela.
29. Have a view on Mt. Yudono
This spot is called Yudonosan Yôhaijo 湯殿山遥拝所
30. Spot the wild flowers on trees
31. Follow the descending slope
32.You exit the forest
33. A sign indicates the Sasagoya Ruins
There was once a thatch-roofed teahouse here, but the lack of pilgrims through the years had it close down. Now, only the logs are remaining.
34. A sign indicates the steles of Churenji & Dainichibo temples
35. Cross the bridge
36. You are getting near Mt. Yudono
This stele worships Mt. Yudono’s gods.
37. Follow the narrow road to Mt. Yudono
38. After this slope, you’ll arrive to a paved road
39. Cross the road to climb the final path to Mt. Yudono
Be careful to approaching cars & buses!!
40. Climb the “Repentance Slope”
The Zange-zaka ザンゲ坂 (“The Repentance Slope”) is the final step to Mt. Yudono. It is a bit steep, so brace yourselves.
41. You can spot Yudono’s torii gate
42. You arrive at Yudonosan Senninzawa
This is the end of your hike to Mt. Yudono. You can take it further by following the Yamabushi path, only if you are guided by a Yamabushi monk/priest.
Rokujurigoe-Kaido: From Dainichibo Temple to the Nanatsu Falls
Leave the mummies village to go back to the Rokujurigoe-Kaido forests.
Distance
4km
Elevation
160meters
Required Time
1.5h
Danger level
Caution advised *Dangers include:Bear presence
Difficulty level (for beginners)
Easy
Equipment needed
● Water ● Hiking shoes ● Rainwear ● Sun hat ● Hiking sticks
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100
3. You spot this stele that indicates the location of the Odan no sugi
4. The giant stele on the left indicates the presence of the Odan no Sugi
5. You see the Odan no Sugi
6. Odan no sugi
The Odan no sugi 皇壇ノ杉 is a giant cedar tree which age is estimated beyond 1000 years old. It is said Emperor Keiko’s son is buried under the tree.
7. Go for Dainichibo’s graveyard
8. Dainichibo’s graveyard
9. Follow the paved road
10. A sign tells you the direction to go to go to Tamugimata village
11. Follow the path
12. You enter a beech forest
13. Continue
14. You arrived at the Sainotoge
The Sainotoge 塞ノ峠 ruins are those of a former pilgrim teahouse that was once thriving. This is the proof of the popularity the Rokujurigoe-kaido had among the pilgrims at the time.
15. Follow straight
16. You arrive at a pond
17. Follow the dirt road on the left
18. You come by this flag.
19. Below is the village of Tamugimata
20. Follow the path to Tamugimata village
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21. You arrive by a road. This sign indicates a spring that is not for use anymore.
22. Further, the NanakamadoTei inn.
Stay here if it’s late or if you want to have lunch.
23. Cross the road
Soon you’ll arrive by a river
24. A stele tells you you’re in the right direction
25. You cross a river
26. Soon, you arrive at a village with two big thatch-roofed houses.
This is Tamugimata village. Follow the path up the village to find the next entrance to the Rokujurigoe-kaido pilgrim trail.
27. After a while, you come by the Arikoshizaka entrance
This is the entrance you will need to take to get to Mt. Yudono. But we suggest you take a look at the Nanatsu falls before heading for the last step of the pilgrimage.
28. A little further the Arikoshizaka: the Nanatsu Falls
One of Japan’s 100 most beautiful waterfalls.
Rokujurigoe-Kaido: From Churenji to Dainichibo Temple
The road that connects two of the most important temples in Mt. Yudono’s history, each entombing a Sokushinbutsu mummy.
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100
Also called “The Realm of the Dead”, or “The Mountain of the Past”, Mt. Gassan is the most important step in the Dewa Sanzan’s yamabushi training.
Distance
5.1km
Elevation
-1130meters
Required Time
2.3h
Danger level
Dangerous *Dangers include:Slippery slopes, Snow, Heat strokes, Slippery when raining, Snow (risks of slipping), Strong winds, Ladders
Difficulty level (for beginners)
Hard
Equipment needed
● Water ● Hiking shoes ● Rainwear ● Sun hat ● Hiking sticks ● Snow grips (especially in July) ● Food or snacks
Difficulty levels have been designed for people who have a PAI (Personal Activity Intelligence) score inferior or equal to 60. Experienced hikers or persons with a PAI above 100 can withdraw two cases to know the average difficulty for their fitness level. Example: Trails noted “Hard for beginners” correspond to “average” trails for experienced hikers or people with a PAI above 100.
1. Go behind the Gassan Chojo Goya lodge
2. A sign indicates the direction you have to follow
This direction is called: “Yudonosan Ubasawa hômen 湯殿山姥沢方面”
3. Do Not turn left at this point
If you turn left, you will arrive at Hijiori.
4. Do not turn left
Turning left will bring you to Hondôji temple.
5. You spot this stele with a haiku written on it
6. You start your descent
7. This metallic map indicates the position of every mountain in the surroundings
8. Find the Kaji Inari shrine
9. The view from Kaji gakkô
10. Continue going down
11. Ushikubi crossing. Continue straight
12. Approaching Kanauba
13. It’s still straight ahead!
14. Turn right at the Kanauba crossing
15. You should be arriving onto a track with wild vegetation
16.After a while, you arrive by a river
17. The vegetation is getting wild
18. You’re approaching Mt. Yudono
19. If you spot this stone monument, you’re on the right way
20. You arrive at the Shozokuba emergency lodge
21. You need to turn right to go to Mt. Yudono
22. Do NOT turn left
If you turn left, you’ll arrive at Shizu Onsen.
23. Appreciate the view on Yudono before getting into the jungle
24. You are approaching the Gakkôzaka slope
25. This is the Gakkôzaka
This is the most dangerous part of the trail. Several ladders allow you to go down to Mt. Yudono. But be careful: it can be very slippery especially after the rain.
26. Go down with extra caution
27. Another ladder
28. Yes, it’s another ladder
29. This is what it looks like from below.
30. Rest assured: no more ladder from this point
31. Mt. Yudono’s purification ritual post
32. Yudonosan shrine
You need to take the purification prayer (500 yen/person) to get access to the shrine.
33. Shuttle bus stop & souvenir shop
The shuttle bus stop costs 200 yen (one-way) or 300 yen (round trip) to go back to Yudonosan Senninzawa.
34. Yudonosan Kyukeijo
This is where the shuttle bus will drop you. You can use the toilet or have some food, drinks, or buy souvenirs here. The parking lot in front of the shop also serves as a bus stop for the bus bound for Tsuruoka station (only operates during a limited period of time).
35. Yudonosan Senninzawa
This is Mt. Yudono’s torii gate.
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