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The Kazama family, once official merchants for the Shonai Clan in Tsuruoka Castle town, flourished and eventually became the foremost merchants in Tsuruoka, actively contributing to the growth of local industries. In 1826, Kazama Koemon, the seventh head of the family, built the Heishindo as both a residence and a business hub on the grounds of a former samurai residence. This construction, featuring the medicinal doctor gate—a warrior gate dating back around 200 years—effectively preserves the prosperity of that era. With around 40,000 distinctive stone roofing tiles, four storehouses, expansive board rooms, and a central pillar, it offers a valuable glimpse into the opulent history of a prosperous merchant. Recognized as a National Important Cultural Property, it has drawn attention for its historical significance.

About the Heishindo’s merchant house…
The Kazama family’s ancestors were samurai in the Somi Domain of Echigo Province (present-day Yokogoshi Village, Nakakanbara District, Niigata Prefecture). They later became merchants in Murakami and subsequently moved to Sakata. It is said they settled in Tsuruoka in the latter half of the 18th century. Afterward, they operated a textile and lumber store in the Gokamachi area of Tsuruoka Castle town (present-day Honmachi 1-chome), serving as official merchants for the Shonai Clan. By the end of the Edo period, they became the leading merchants in Tsuruoka. In the Meiji era, they turned to moneylending and grew to become one of the largest landowners in the Shonai region, concurrently supporting charitable activities such as child welfare and kindergarten management. In the 1920s, they conducted female education at the Heishindo. Presently, they are actively involved in educational endeavors. In 1896, the 7th head of the Kazama family, Koemon, constructed the Heishindo as a residence and business base (store). It retains the distinct characteristics of a merchant’s residence, including vast board rooms, storehouses, and a medicinal doctor gate from that era. It was named “Heishindo” (meaning the Year of the Fire Monkey) after the zodiac year. The main building faces south towards the road, with a medicinal doctor gate and front storehouses to the south, central storehouses and rear storehouses to the west, and an inner storehouse (safehouse) to the north. It has 19 rooms, totaling 180 tatami mats in Japanese-style rooms, spacious board rooms, and a large central pillar that remains as it was in those days. The building is said to have been constructed as a lesson from the Shonai Earthquake of 1894, with various ingenious features such as trussing the beams over the spacious board rooms into a triangular shape. The main building received designation as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property of the Nation in December of 1996, while the front gate (medicinal doctor gate), various storehouses, and fences were designated as Important Cultural Properties of the Nation in June of 1999. Subsequently, in December of 1999, the main building, various storehouses, toilets, and bathing facilities were designated as Important Cultural Properties of the Nation.

About the Shakado (Buddha Hall)…
Located about 50 meters north of the Heishindo, Muryokoin Shakado is a tea-ceremony-style building constructed with high-quality cedar in 1910 (Meiji 43) as a detached residence for the Heishindo. It served as a hospitality facility for guests of the wealthy merchant. Recognized for its excellent structural design, it was designated as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property of the Nation in February 2002, deemed valuable for studying detached residence architecture. The Kazama family, devoted to the Jodo Shinshu Buddhist faith for generations, adorned the building with the inscription “Muryoko” from the time of its establishment. The 8th head, Koemon, combined the building and the garden, naming it “Muryokoen.” Furthermore, the current head named the building “Muryokoin Shakado” after enshrining a Buddha statue (donated in 1923 by Professor Joji Takayasu of Tokyo Imperial University’s Department of Indian Philosophy). The approximately 2,700-square-meter garden features over 200-year-old Somei Yoshino cherry trees, mountain cherries, drooping cherry trees, azaleas, Japanese maple forests, camellias, and hagi, providing colorful displays throughout the seasons. The most spectacular and beautiful time is said to be in mid-May when white azaleas bloom simultaneously along the artificial hill. Enjoy the distinct atmosphere compared to the Heishindo.

Located just 20 minutes away from Tsuruoka Station and a mere 8 minutes from Yunohama Onsen, Kamo Aquarium is renowned as the “number one jellyfish-specialized aquarium in the world.”

The aquarium’s stellar reputation is attributed to its impressive display of jellyfish species, boasting the successful reproduction of over 80 different types by the dedicated aquarium team. This accomplishment is a result of the continuous efforts of the scientific team, led by Director Mr. Okuizumi Kazuya, who tirelessly researches innovative ways to enhance the jellyfish’s environment.

In addition to the captivating jellyfish exhibits, Kamo Aquarium also features an extensive collection of local sea creatures, including seals and sea lions, making it a comprehensive and fascinating destination for marine enthusiasts.

Yamagata Prefecture won the championship at the 2023 Japan Sake Awards with 20 brands receiving gold awards, making it the best sake in Japan!

Tsuruoka is located on Yamagata Prefecture’s coast to the Sea of Japan, a region called: “Shonai.”

The Shonai region became one of Japan’s leading rice-producing areas through extensive development during the 17-19th century. However, in the winter, the rice fields in Shonai are covered with large amounts of snow, making agriculture impossible. As a result, the farmers chose sake brewing as their winter occupation. Combined with that historical experience, the cold climate of the snow-covered region, along with the clear waters running from the melted snow upon Mt. Chokai and the Dewa Sanzan sacred mountains, also contributed to the suitability of Shonai’s abundant natural environment for producing delicious sake.

Among Tsuruoka’s beloved breweries, you will find:

-Takenotsuyu (located in Mt. Haguro)
-Watarai (located in Oyama)
-Dewanoyuki (Oyama)
-Tomizu (Oyama)

And many more! Come taste them all!

Located along National Route 7 Bypass, in the vicinity of the Yamagata Expressway Tsuruoka Interchange, our facility boasts an excellent location. Inside, you’ll find a vibrant fish market selling fresh seafood, a specialty store gathering local mountain delicacies, regional products, and souvenirs, a dining area, a snack corner, and a comprehensive tourist information section. The spacious parking area ensures a comfortable stop, making it a bustling spot for tourists and families alike.

As you stroll through the Yutagawa hot spring town, you can’t miss “Parosu Yutagawa.” It’s this popular spot known for Yutagawa’s special Hyottoko sweet buns and the crowd-pleaser Dadacha beans soft serve ice cream. It’s just the right distance for a relaxed walk from your inn. And since there are no convenience stores in Yutagawa Onsen, if you fancy grabbing some canned beer, juice, or snacks, make your way to “Parosu Yutagawa.” Plus, its retro vibe is cute, and you can take a breather on the bench by the storefront.

Shojin-ryori 精進料理 (“the food for spiritual elevation”)’s origins stems from Buddhism. It is a type of food that was elaborated in order to fit Buddha’s precepts of non-violence (veganism) and spiritual focus (no use of ingredients with strong odors that could disturb the trainee’s mind). However, in the Dewa Sanzan, as the religious separation between Buddhism and Shintoism occured in 1869, making the Buddhist temples convert to Shintoism all across the Dewa Sanzan, the food has evolved from its original Buddhism ancestry and has integrated Shintoist principles in its elaboration process.

For example, Dewa Sanzan’s shojin-ryori is not strictly vegan anymore as Shinto has no dietary restriction regarding fish. This is why it incorporates bonito powder (known as “katsuo-dashi”) in dishes like miso-soups or miso-based sauces. However, the use of non-fish animals flesh is still prohibited as it is regarded as “impure” in the Shinto religion. For the same reason, ingredients that are normally prohibited in the Buddhist shojin-ryori like ginger, onion or leek for the reason they are seen as “mind disturbances” in the Buddhist religion, can be found in the Dewa Sanzan’s shojin-ryori menu.

Dewa Sanzan’s shojin-ryori has been thought to offer the customers an overview of the bounties in the mountains by featuring seasonal “sansai” (mountain edible plants, or “mountain vegetables”) and fruits. The menu varies according to the season. In spring, customers will find a big variety of sansai as it is the season where most of them can be gathered in the forests. In summer, there will be many dishes with summer vegetables grown by the villagers in the mountain such as : eggplant, tomato, okra, dadachamame… Autumn is the season of mushrooms so customers will enjoy many dishes like maitake tempura, nameko miso soup, or shiitake simmered in miso. Winter is the season when customers can discover all the efforts the villagers have put into preserving the food in the Summer/Autumn season through pickling or salting processes with dishes like: salted warabi ferns, salted cucumber pickles or cabbage in vinegar.

Dewa Sanzan’s Shojin-ryori can be enjoyed in the shukubo lodges and ryokan in Mt. Haguro or in Mt. Yudono’s Sanrojo pilgrim lodge. However, a reservation must be made prior to the customer’s arrival as each meal is prepared one by one. If you need your menu to be vegan, please inquire to the restaurant of your choice if they can cater to your needs beforehand.

Average price for a Shojin-ryori lunch in the Dewa Sanzan : 3600 – 4200 yen

List of places to eat Shojin-ryori:

Tamonkan – Reservation by email : toki-a@blue.plala.or.jp

Daishinbo – Reservation online (starting from 5 persons)

Miyatabo – Reservation online

Saikan – Reservation by phone : (+81) 0235-62-2357

Sanzan Daiai Kyokai (Choenbo, Chodenbo) – Reservation by phone (+81) 0235-62-2282

Kanbayashibo – Reservation by email: katukane@minos.ocn.en.jp (starting from 2 persons, 7 days before desired date of lunch)

If there is a symbol of Autumn in Tsuruoka, it is without doubt the Imoni soup! Imoni means “Simmered yams”, a name given to the dish’s main ingredient: taro tubers.

The inner region of Yamagata Prefecture (“nairiku” 内陸) has its own version of the Imoni soup, which features beef with a sweet soy sauce seasoning. However, in the Shonai region on the Japan Sea side of the same prefecture, which includes Tsuruoka City, Imoni soup relies on pork meat and miso-based seasoning.

In Shonai, the essential ingredients for Imoni include taro tuber, as well as pork (thinly minced), leek, burdock, konjac, various mushrooms like shimeji and shiitake, and thick-fried tofu (“atsuage” 厚揚げ), making it a hearty and richly flavored dish.

The full-scale cultivation of rice in the Shonai region began in the 8th century after the establishment of the Dewa Province. During the Edo period (1603-1868), the lord of the Shonai domain, Tadamasa Sakai, encouraged rice cultivation, leading to increased production. Shonai became renowned as a major rice-producing region throughout the country. In 1649, a trade treaty with Osaka and Kanazawa was established in Sakata, and Sakata in Dewa became a central hub for rice trade. When Edo (current Tokyo) faced a severe famine, the shogunate established the western sea route (Kitamae ships) and transported a large amount of rice from the Shonai Plains to the capital.

Moreover, the Shonai region has supported many private farmers since the Meiji era (19th century). One of them, Kameji Abe from Shonai Town, bred the “Kamenoo” variety. From the late Meiji era to the Taisho period (1912-1926), it was cultivated not only in Japan but also in the Korean Peninsula and Taiwan, earning a place among Japan’s top three excellent rice varieties. The lineage of popular varieties like “Koshihikari,” “Sasanishiki,” and “Haenuki” can be traced back to the “Kamenoo” cultivar.

​In recent years, the pursuit of delicious rice cultivation has led to the creation of various rice varieties, such as:

• Tsuyahime (Yamagata 97): As the name suggests (“Shiny Princess”), this rice is characterized by its remarkable whiteness and luster. It not only has a glossy finish when cooked but also boasts a well-balanced sweetness, umami, and stickiness that lingers in the mouth after eating. It is popular not only for its natural flavor but also for remaining delicious even when cooled.
• Haenuki (Yamagata 45): Haenuki has firm rice grains with good stickiness and a satisfying chewiness. The more you chew, the more its umami and sweetness spread in your mouth. Its consistent quality, which remains delicious even when cooled, has made it popular in commercial use as well.
• Yukiwakamaru (Yamagata 112): A relatively new brand of rice in Yamagata Prefecture following “Haenuki” and “Tsuyahime,” it took over ten years to develop this variety. Starting from the 2018 harvest, Yukiwakamaru is an exceptionally new type of rice. The cooked rice has a striking whiteness, excellent gloss, and large, well-defined grains.

Hinagashi (sweets to offer at the Dolls’ Festival) are typically made to reflect the specialties of the region. They include ingredients thought to promote good health, represent success, and appeal to children. Depending on the shops, the shapes of sweets will vary, featuring ingredients such as bamboo shoots, peaches, persimmon, or sea bream. Tsuruoka’s hinagashi has been influenced by Kyoto’s elegant and refined culture and use of “shinko zaiku” (figurines made of sugar and rice-flour dough) which was common during the Edo period in Edo. Tsuruoka’s unique style of hinagashi displays gratitude for good fortune and wishing for the growth and happiness of girls. It has become an indispensable part of the hinamatsuri of Tsuruoka. Tsuruoka’s hinamatsuri incorporates the culture of Kyoto and Edo, and Tsuruoka’s confectionery craftsmen have worked hard to develop their own hinagashi, passing down their practices. Today, hinagashi is an indispensable part of Tsuruoka’s hinamatsuri.

The busiest time for producing hinagashi is from mid-February until early-April. In Tsuruoka city and its surrounding region, hinamatsuri is celebrated on March 3 or April 3, depending on each family’s wishes.

(from https://www.tsuruokagastronomy.com/ )

“Indigenous crops” refer to vegetables, fruit trees, grains, and other crops that have been cultivated for many centuries in a particular region and have been embraced by the local people to keep its genetic uniqueness intact. Indigenous crops have long supported our daily lives and played a significant role in preserving the unique cultural heritage of the region. In Shonai and Tsuruoka, as many as 60 varieties of indigenous crops have been identified, serving as biological resources with genetic diversity. These crops are not only valuable for their agricultural heritage but also for the transmission of cultivation techniques and culinary traditions. They are considered “living cultural heritage” to be passed down to the next generation, and various projects are underway to ensure their continuation.

One such indigenous crop is the “Moso Bamboo Shoot.” These high-quality bamboo shoots can be eaten without the need for debittering. They have a mild flavor and a soft, tender texture. While there are different theories about their origin, some suggest that they were brought back by ascetics from Kyoto on northern-bound ships and planted in temples and shrines. In Shonai, they are commonly enjoyed as “Moso-jiru Soup,” cooked with thick-fried tofu, shiitake mushrooms, miso, and sake lees. This dish has become a beloved springtime tradition in the region.

The Moso bamboo has a crunchy texture with a spicy aftertaste.

Moso-jiru is the quintessential springtime dish in Tsuruoka. It’s a hearty soup that stars the Moso bamboo shoot as its main ingredient, gently simmered in a sweet miso-based broth alongside shiitake mushrooms and deep-fried tofu (atsuage). The Yutagawa Onsen area, in particular, is renowned for crafting some of the finest moso-jiru soups, thanks to the abundance of bamboo shoots found in the forests surrounding the village.

Edible chrysanthemum (mottegiku もって菊) is a staple summer/autumn dish in Tsuruoka, eaten cold marinated in a sweet-sour sauce. The petals are tubular, and the flowers are semi-double or double, giving them a medium size. There are two varieties of mottegiku: purple and yellow.One of the distinctive features of the Akigiku is its crisp and crunchy texture due to the tubular shape of the petals. It is also known for its subtle fragrance, sweetness, and a hint of bitterness. The name of the dish “mottenohoka” (“unbelievable”) is said to have originated from the idea that “it is unbelievable to eat the chrysanthemum, symbol of the Imperial Family” or from the notion that the chrysanthemum is “unbelievably delicious.”